Dandytc

Any chance that your tc is still under warranty? If it is, you might want to go that route. Part missing from not being properly installed maybe? They can't blame it on being a wearable part. Good luck.

Trust, but verify. Thank you Google. And thank you Fifty for the challenge.

I did when I first got my wagon. The discrepancy was not too bad: 19.5 MPG real life vs 20.4 MPG computer reading. Not nearly as good as the 28 MPG range reported by some on this forum, but I do a have a heavy foot, and do very little long distance highway travelling, which would substantially alter my readings, even without changing shoes.

I ran into the same problem when I was trying to get a recovery hook urgently needed for my '15 wagon. There is a thread somewhere on this forum about the subject, but to cut through the chase, the part number for the one I bought is 6M2Z-17A954-A. It is listed as a part number for other vehicles in their book, but I insisted on getting one, so they sold me one (Can$ 46.77 + tax). Good luck.

White bumpers on my 15 LWB XLT wagon... Does that count, or are you strictly looking for white bumpers on cargo vans?

The hex bit on the lug wrench is 13 mm, with a loose fit, but a 14 mm bit doesn't fit. It looks like a 1/2" bit would work as well. Did you need an excuse to visit your nearest HF?

That is what I was told when I bought my slightly used wagon. It has been previously insured for 6-8 months (8500 kms) as a rental, according to the carproof papers. I checked the websites of the local rental companies, and none of them lists a TC specifically; just a brand or another "or similar". I have a hunch that maybe Hertz has some TCs, but I haven't phoned to check.

They seem to be rare too in metro Vancouver area. Although they are familiar with the vans, people ask me regularly what kind of vehicle I drive when I pull up with my xlt wagon. There is usually some used wagons for sale at dealerships (ex-rentals), but they are not a hot item, and don't seem to move easily. That allowed me to negotiate a good deal when I bought mine, after it sat unsold for 8 months.

My 15 XLT wagon has the one-touch down or up on all windows. This is something I was wishing for in my previous car.

It has been mentioned in various threads that the 2014+ TC cannot be lifted on ramps because of low clearance below the front bumper assembly. I was considering making my own ramps with a shallower angle, but came up with this solution instead. This version is a little crude, made up of lumber I had on hand, but it works with my ramps, so I will assemble a more permanent version of it. This system essentially changes the angle of the ramp by adding 2 layers of 2 X 10 under the front of the ramp (2 x 12 would be better). I suppose other brands of ramps might require some tweaking. Of course, do all this at your own risk, on a flat and solid surface. Doing this also changes how the ramp sits when loaded, in such a way that it was not designed for, making it more tippy.

There is currently 2 post on Craigslist in my area for 2015-16 TCs with 6 cyl engines (for sale by owner). To paraphrase MRTN in another thread: "Dummies". " 6 cylinder (good power but also good fuel economy) Factory warranty until Dec 2018" I don't think I would even deal with someone who cannot count to four when they open the hood.

A few weeks ago, I had to park my TC and trailer on a country road for a while. Despite the lack of traffic in that neighbourhood, I turned on my 4-way flashers, and when I tried to start the engine 3 hours later, I found the battery was dead. I called a friend to come give me a boost, and discovered that even when you remove the battery cover, you can only really access the positive battery post to clamp on. There isn't enough space above the battery to clamp on to the negative post. After some fumbling, we finally got a ground somewhere, but I was a little frustrated by the whole thing. Later on, back home, I found the solution: there is a short length of wire between the negative battery post and an external post on the body, just above the fuse box, and to the right of the battery when looking at it. (It really is on the left side of the car.) That seems to be the best place for the negative clamp.

Mickster, first off, welcome to the forum. With your first post, you bring the answer to a question that has been asked many times. I'm sure many TC owners will thank you. It seems your dealership stands above the rest.

I also have the Curt trailer hitch and wiring kit, and as I have a raised ball mount to fit my trailer, I end up with a scenario very similar. My solutions are: 1 - Remove the ball mount if I don't need it; it only takes seconds to remove, and I don't like to bump into it. 2 - I have a switch to temporarily disable the alarm when I have the ball mount installed or when I back up with a trailer. (2015 XLT wagon). The switch leaves the camera active.

The Volvo 300 series was the successor of the Volvo 66, itself the successor of the Daf 66. Volvo had bought Daf and continued production with some changes and improvements. The cars were referred to as Daf, even after the name change. The variomatic transmission basically allows you to go as fast in reverse as in forward. These cars were successfully raced in rally competition, and later on, were raced in reverse in demolition derby type races. There are some videos on youtube, but most are not in English.

Back in the mid 80's, when I was living in Europe, I owned a Volvo 66, with a 1.3l engine coupled to a Variomatic transmission, which was the original CVT. That little car was a hoot to drive. I could start faster than much bigger, more powerful cars. I once beat a Porsche twice in a row, starting at light controlled intersections. Of course, it was game over for me as soon as the Porsche shifted into 2nd. Still a lot of fun, though. That car was also unbeatable on snow. With regular tires and some weight in the trunk, I could stop uphill on a snow covered road, and get going again no problem. In fact, I have never owned or just driven any other car that was that good on snow (2 wheel drive), even equipped with snow tires. Before buying my TC, I considered other cars, some of which were equipped with CVT, but they all had low towing capacities.

Actually, that engine is designed to rev; it is inherent to a DOHC 4 bangers. Drivers that are uncomfortable revving small engines are usually people that are used to driving north american vehicle with over-sized engines that lets them get away with under-utilizing resources. When I bought my TC, a family member in Europe asked me why I had chosen such a large engine. To understand that question, take a look at one of the European Ford site and check out their engines.

I originally found out about this hack from other sources that did not include any warnings. I tried it on my 02 focus several times, because I thought I was a cool trick, but I also used it to see if there was any DTC codes (I don't remember what the reason was), and I used it while driving to keep an eye on the engine temperature when I had overheating issues due to malfunctioning fans once, and a defective thermostat another time. As far as I know, this hack only allows you to read data, not to modify it.

If you do not have access to a scanner, you might be able to get some data and codes through the hidden menu on the dashboard. I found out about this trick when I owned a Focus mk1, and since a gen 1 TC is based on a Focus, I guess it should work. I have not tried it yet on my gen 2 TC, as I only just now found the procedure. Visit http://mr-fix.info/ for starters. There are probably other places on the internet that could be useful with regards to the procedure , including Focus forums. You may also have to look for a full list of DTC codes.

When I installed my wiring harness, to power up the module, I ran the power line under the carpet alongside the green wire to the passenger side and hooked up to the fuse box in the cargo area. My manual says that F26 (not used) is 40A and for accessories, trailer tow module, so I connected to it with a spade connector and the 10A fuse holder supplied. The one thing I would do differently, is install the module on the right side, next to the fuses. That would require lengthening the left side wires, but would allow to use the hole in the wheel well that is there to run the flat plug through it; slice the plastic cap to run the wires, then fix it with some caulking. I believe the OEM module gets installed that way on the right hand side, hence the presence of the hole and cap. I duplicated that hole on the left side, and that was painful, but I didn't want to cut and splice wires at the time.

Welcome, strobz. Riteway Auto Recyclers in Chilliwack seems to have several TC's in inventory. Give them a call to confirm that that have what you are looking for (1-800-721-5515). I have limited experience dealing with wreckers, but I believe that, as a rule of thumb, they charge around 50% of the price of new. http://ritewayautorecyclers.hollanderapps.com/asp/parts/default.asp?version=0&md=TRANSIT+CONNECT

Welcome to the forum! It looks like this is a "child seat tether anchor", part number 613D74. http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=jCS6kJEQYLk9pRbR33%2baTg%3d%3d&id=423872267&m=2&search=true&year=2010&make=Ford&model=Transit Connect http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2010&m=Ford&mo=Transit Connect&initSearch=1&partNo=613d74#Search

The video posted by rectalogic (forum member) yesterday on another thread, shows the mechanic using a battery tender to avoid losing data and memories.

The default language of the display appears to be French...Interesting.

I like the aircraft style storage bins; they are great for storing some of the things that I like to have in my car, but rarely need access to, such as first-aid kit, emergency kit and supplies, flashlight, some small basic tools, etc. They are always there, never in the way, neatly put away. And for $100, I think it is a reasonable option for storage that is unobtrusive. That being said, I never carry passengers who might want to use the bins for themselves.