Fifty150

Hmmmm......thinking about how my brother in law drives about 600 miles daily, that is 3,000 miles a week. Imagine that yearly oil change. My daily commute in my own vehicle is only 20 miles round trip. It would take 2 years before I get 10,000 miles.

Opinions vary. i just don't think hubcaps look good.

I average 200 miles a day. 1,000 miles a week. 52,000 miles a year.

Property Management will not allow me to install a lift in my apartment, on the 13th floor, across the street from ICE headquarters.

I just can't get excited over hubcaps. I can see buying new wheels, if there is a performance advantage. Lighter.. Bigger wheel for a lower profile tire. Different dimensions to allow for bigger brakes. I get it. Some people get rims just because they enjoy the aesthetic. But who buys hubcaps because they look good?

I think I'll take that leftover 0.3 quart, and just pour it into the engine. It's doing nothing for me by just sitting on the shelf.

This is the reason that I bought 4 UniJacks. 1 under each jack point.

BP was Anglo Iranian Oil Company....back in 'da day. I am guessing that there has to be some fine print, which limits the number of miles driven within 1 calendar year, and excludes any commercial vehicle, vehicle with extended idle, towing, off-road use, racing, et cetera. Surely you couldn't use that oil for 1 year, in every vehicle. I think that almost every synthetic oil is good for 10,000 miles. But most of them will still suggest that you follow your manufacturer's guideline for oil change intervals.

Sam exact tool labeled for brand name seller: 2T Double Ram Bottle Jack Item# TF0202 Description 1. Dual-stage, steel hardened rams allow for longer travel. Lower retracted heights and higher extended heights. Heat treated saddle provides generous lifting area and secure grip. 2. A wide, rugged base provides stability and strength . Safety bypass valves prevent overloading. Specification Capacity: 4,000 lbs Lifting range: 5-7/8" to 14-9/16"

In the event that anyone is interested in acquiring one of these, and you don't see enough pics online, I am attaching photos. Through one of my contacts, I got a generic labeled item from the same factory which produces the same exact jack for known name brands. From my initial inspection, this item appears as if it is every bit capable of lifting the Transit Connect. With the knowledge that no matter which brand you buy, they all come from the same factory, you can make a wiser decision based upon pricing, availability, product support, and seller's warranty. As with all bottle jacks, you can own it forever if you inspect it for leaks and replace seals as needed, keep it clean and lubricate all moving parts, change hydraulic fluid as needed, purge excess air from hydraulic system, and keep the fluid level topped off.

I love Las Vegas. Free booze = drunk chicks!

If anyone sees one of these at a Harbor Freight store, please let me know, and post the part no. if you can. That way I can try to pull up the part no. on their website. The closest Harbor Freight, with traffic, is almost an hour away from me. In addition to what we pay for bridge toll, I may as well order online and pay for the shipping. Craftsman 15 in. Slide Bar, 1/2 in. Drive Item: 44151 | Model: 44151 $99.99 Item Is Sold Out

Luckily for me, I'm not fabricating shipping containers for caskets all that often. It's not like I have bodies in my basement that I need to get rid of before the cops come with a warrant. Unless I have a job that I really need an air tool for, I am lazy. I don't want to fire up the compressor, then only to have to let all the air out of the tank and bleed it later, for turning just a few bolts. I can see if I'm in a shop, then air tools are the way to go. But at home, who is firing up a compressor for an oil change? I found an Auto-Hammer at Sears that works so well, I haven't used a pneumatic nail gun at home since I bought it.

Same way cars last longer in Las Vegas. Dry air. No humidity. No rust. Any part of the country with snow will effect everything on the car. The road salt and slush will cause corrosion along the undercarriage. It makes me want to spray truck bed liner all over the bottom of the car......even though that really won't work. Or will it? The Line-X brand in the bed of my pickup is great. A friend of mine sprayed Rhino Lining inside his Jeep. We were going to spray the interiors of our work vans, until the accounting department balked at the idea of spending that kind of money on vans which we regularly abuse, and have no intention of preserving for long term ownership.

I don't have a display on the XL model. I don't know if I would trust it, even if there was a display. Same way a lot of people change their oil by odometer mileage, as opposed to waiting for the display to indicate that they need an oil change. I use the old fashion method of number of miles driven / gallons consumed. I try to refuel about every 200 miles. Average fill-up is always a little over 12 gallons of fuel. Not scientific enough that I always purchase fuel at the same pump, at the same time of day, et cetera. But my average mileage has been, in 2 years of ownership, a little bit over 16 MPG. 16.20, 16.6, 16.4......in that range.

I agree. You are absolutely correct. A guy like me who does an oil change every few months, and may change a flat tire if the occasion arises, will never truly "need" to buy a compressor like that. My real concern with buying a cheap compressor, is that it becomes a waste of money when I run out of air in the middle of a job, does not supply enough for what I'm doing, or it simply stops working when I need it. The compressor that I have now is the "cheap" Porter Cable 6 gallon Model no. C2002. $99 @ Lowes & $89 on amazon.com. Pretty good for topping off the tires on my motorcycle, or blowing compressed air when I want to clean something. I have an air ratchet that I used with it a few times, and it's fine for a couple of bolts here & there. But I really don't do anything that I couldn't do by hand with a wrench. I remember once using a cheap compressor a buddy had: we were trying to put together a couple of 2X4s to build a long pallet. Easy job. Build a 2X4 ladder, then attach a couple of regular pallets onto it. In theory, you could load something the size of a coffin on top, then build a crate around it to protect what you are shipping. The compressor kept running out of air (and we had to wait 20 minutes while it refilled). Some of the nails only drove into the wood halfway (which we had to follow and finish with a regular hammer). Even though that compressor did not just quit and stop working, it was not ideal. My buddy offered to give me that one for free, since he was so frustrated that he went out and bought a larger, more expensive brand compressor that day.

I hate to admit it that they just got another $100 out of me today.......even though I had their super coupons. A couple of breaker bars, torque wrenches, and extendable ratchets in different drive sizes.....ninety nine cents for a couple of picks, throw in the free tarp........and now I hate myself for giving them another $100. Amazing that I can buy a breaker bar for less than $20, when a similar breaker bar from Snap On is literally about $200. I sure wish that Harbor Freight has a sliding handle. I couldn't find it on their website. The Snap On version is almost $100, once I pay for the tax plus shipping, or call the local tool truck guy and pay his mark up for coming to my door.

Driving style has everything to do with it. If you are on a freeway most of the time, you will go tens of thousands of miles more. Because your car is just driving, not stopping. I am in stop & go traffic. I step on the brakes, and ride the brakes, at least a dozen times on every block. I'm getting 16 miles to the gallon, while others are actually getting 27. It all makes sense of course. Most cars can idle away 1 gallon every hour. So if you turn on the van, leave it to idle until empty, you literally got zero mpg.

Interesting to hear about how cars are bought and sold in different parts of the world. Where I live, those who do not know, will pay the window sticker. Some people will wait until they see an advertised "sale price". The rest of us will haggle, bargain, and argue with the salesman. None of this is right. Nobody should pay more, just because the salesman wants more of your money. Cars should be priced fairly, and the average person should not feel like they are being cheated.

I don't doubt it. Noise level can drive you crazy. I'm just wondering if the more expensive air compressors will outperform and outlast the Harbor Freight compressor. Because even at half price, it's a waste of money when it doesn't work.

So tempting for $40 Double click on above image to view full picture 3 gal. 1/3 HP 100 PSI Oilless Pancake Air Compressor Central Pneumatic®- Item#61615 386 ReviewsWrite A Review This oilless air compressor is ideal for inflation, stapling, brad nailing and air brushing Only: $54.99 Compare to $98.62, Porter-Cable PCFP02003 Sale $39.99 with coupon 59413379 Add item to cart to redeem coupon

I've hear of California Air Tool. They are also sold on amazon.com. I think that the attraction to Harbor Freight is the pricing. It lets you buy a lot of things that you may not otherwise buy. The Harbor Freight vs California Air Tools may or may not be a fair comparison. Pricing is double. Will you get your money's worth? That depends on who you ask. Some Harbor Freight items are complete junk. Some Harbor Freight items are just as good as the rest of the stuff out there. One of my favorite Harbor Freight items is the $5 socket set. I've done so much with this item, that it is completely worth $5. I can recall breaking 1 socket. The store gave me a new one. Double click on above image to view full picture 40 Pc 3/8 in. Drive SAE & Metric Socket Set Pittsburgh®- Item#62843 225 ReviewsWrite A Review A high quality, low price socket set that fits under your car seat Only: $4.99 Compare to $19.97, Kobalt 89809 The breaker bars and torque wrenches have always been attractive deals. Controversy over whether Harbor Freight torque wrenches are accurate. A lot of people worry about Harbor Freight breaker bars failing. But I'm not using these tools to make a living.

But if you try to give them a black plastic piece of trim, they may not accept that as the core for reflectors. You end up paying the core charge, and not getting a refund for return, since you don't have a reflector to give back. Kind of like buying a battery, without a battery to return. unless you hold onto that receipt, wait 15 years until you no longer own the vehicle, then return the two little reflectors and ask for a return on your core deposit. They will probably laugh at you.

You bought a used van in commercial service for 6 years. Who know what kind of abuse those vans went through. From what I have seen, once those doors are open, they take a lot of abuse. You may not want to think about how the van has been "nudged" with forklifts. Or when guys drive around with the doors open, as they try to back them up against loading docks designed for trucks. Not to mention when people load something a little too big, and they either try to slam that door close, or they drive around with the door held in place with bungee cords, straps, or rope. Ever seen a little van with one door open, the rear passenger side door, and building material such as lumber and pipe hanging out? That hinge is designed so that the door can be opened wider for material handling. In theory, that will prevent a lot of the abuse. But it still happens. You should replace with the OEM hinge. If you don't abuse it, then you will be okay.