Fifty150

Looks like someone else had a transmission failure at low miles.

Nothing will center evenly over the top of the hitch receiver. Unless, of course, you remove the door, and find a way to balance half of the load inside of the van. Inside of the van, there are a few attachment points for tying down with ratchet straps. I would use ratchet straps. Don't think about bungee cords, rope, or chains. But the real problem with that is that a disabled person would have to load the scooter into the van, and without help. If you do have help, and someone goes places with you, then that is a different story. But some disabled people are more independent, and do not have assistants. I'm still surprised that the OEM hitch receiver has a tongue weight of only 200 pounds. I weigh more than that. Hitch receiver steps are very popular. I guess it's still good enough for a bike on a rack. As I think about it........if you have a roof rack, you could attach a couple of ratchet straps to the roof racks cross bars, and the outer corners of the lift platform. That would redistribute some of the load. But a disabled person may not be able to do that by himself either.

At start up. The vehicle drove fine. Never experienced any symptoms of failure. No hard shifting. No delay of gears engaging. No driveline shudders. No leaking transmission lines. I drove the car to my house from the apartment downtown. No problem. Parked in the driveway. No problem. I noticed that a parking space became available, and figured I might as well move the car. Hours have passed. Got it the car, started it, shifted into D to pull out. Gears are clashing. It sounded just like someone trying to shift a stick shift without using the clutch. I found the same result in R,D,&S. P&N were both quiet. No power to the wheels in any gear. Park did not engage either, and the vehicle rolled just like neutral. I wonder if they will give me the detailed findings......or simply, "we're sorry about your new car's transmission, don't worry, we will fix it under warranty and we appreciate your business". With my luck, "we noticed aftermarket equipment and modifications, so we will not be able to honor your warranty."

The transmission is a 6F35. A 6 speed transmission jointly developed by Ford & GM. Ford offers the 6F35, 6F50, & 6F55. These transmissions have been in use for about a decade now. And a lot of people have had problems with them. I see a lot of Highway Patrol Explorer Police Interceptors in the service bays, on lifts, with the transmissions dropped. I don't have any real statistical data on the failure rate of the 6F series 6 speed transmissions. Obviously, since it is not a 100% failure rate. So there are 6F transmissions on the road,, since 2006, that are still in service. Some of those being fleet & commercial vehicles. Hesitation & hard shifting are indicators that there may be something wrong with the transmission. Sometimes, a transmission fluid exchange solves those issues. But more often than not, by the time you experience transmission failure, new fluid will not help. Fluid exchange, performed regularly, is simply a part of maintenance. And when fluid exchanges are not performed, the transmissions will fail because the dirty, contaminated fluid is no longer performing at optimal level. No amount of clean fluid will help is there is a design flaw, assembly line mistake, or if you stress your transmission by overloading your vehicle, modifying your engine to produce more horsepower and torque than the transmission was intended for, and/or racing. Impossible to speculate. But I suspect that there is one guy on the job, on the assembly line, who is doing something wrong. And trying to isolate his piecework, is like trying to find "Patient X", the 1 flight attendant who carried HIV to Europe & North America. So there you have it. My theorem, with no findings, and no facts; that there is one person doing something wrong. And every transmission he touched has failed. I figure that if his part of the assembly process is that he is one of 25 people who are doing the exact same thing next to him, then he is responsible for the 4 out of every 100 units that fails. The only real solution is to fire everybody and hire new workers. At least new people would not be making the same mistake repeatedly. Reagan fired all the air traffic controllers, hired new people to do their jobs, and no catastrophe happened. Planes did not have mid-air collisions and/or fall out of the sky.

In my driveway. Could have been worse. Could have been on the freeway. Clunking. Sounds almost like trying to shift into gear without using the clutch. Metal on metal.

Curt has an aftermarket tow hitch rated for 525 pounds of tongue weight, and 4000 pounds towing. Problem now is that your warranty may not be honored. Ford can always say that you added an aftermarket part, which you used to exceed capacity.

Almost wants to make you source the right hand drive parts from overseas. Then you can completely remove the steering wheel, dash, gauges, pedals, floorboard.....and whatever else. Then "drop in" the new parts. I see this as a very costly project. Pretty sure you can deduct the cost of conversion on your tax form. Not that I want to give any advice on what else you can creatively claim.

In PARK and NEUTRAL, everything seems okay. In REVERSE and DRIVE, gear does not engage, no power to the wheel, and very loud noise. No codes or dash lights. It looks clean under the hood. No visible transmission fluid consistent with a line bursting or a leak of any sort. No odor of transmission fluid. Into the dealership it goes, since it is still under warranty. I suspect the issue is internal.

Max tongue weight is 200 lbs. I am sure that the combined weight of the lift and scooter is pushing the limit, if not exceeding. Consider also that all the weight is increased by leverage since the weight is sticking out by about 24 - 30 inches. 2 bicycles on a sturdy rack could push the 200 pound limit.

I just took a chance on these for $8. On eBay. Whenever that slow boat from China arrives, I'll update with results.

Good luck with installing those. Every time I tried to use a lamp with a base like that, it never worked out. That rubber base is not specific to your lamp. It's a generic rubber plug which you are suppose to squeeze and push into place. You can try using a very liberal amount of grease, which will then get into the lamp housing, heat up and become more viscous, then it contaminates the inside of the lamp housing and you can't clean it out. And if you ever need to remove them, in case it burned out or you just don't like it and want to replace it, you won't be able to simply twist & pull it out. The head of the lamp is attached to the rubber base with glue. I had one of those come apart as I was attempting to install it. Had to remove the entire lamp housing, and shake it around until the head was in perfect position to fish out with surgeon's forceps. There are dual color lamps like that in different color combinations, and you can easily wire them to strobes for makeshift emergency flashers. On a few older cars, which we were only using as unmarked surveillance vehicles, my partner drilled out a large enough hole to insert them, then affixed a larger backing to hold it in place with epoxy. I would go into more detail, but you will not want to do that with your car. But for a junker destined to be scrapped, we didn't much care about drilling out holes in lamp housings and using chunks of epoxy.

https://www.postalthings.com/right-hand-drive-kits A kit is available. FORD TRANSIT CONNECT We now do the 2015 Ford Transit Connect!! They have a tremendous amount of room! Ford Transit with strobe. RHD Kit RHD kit Look at all this room! Transit1 Transit2 Transit3 Transit4 Please view our Vehicle List page for a comprehensive list of the Ford vehicles we supply RHD kits.

You bought a 2015 van. Congrats! Off topic just a little.......I live in The City. Every mail carrier that I see, drives a USPS Grumman LLV or a new Dodge Ram Van. How does that work where you deliver the mail, but have to buy your own vehicle? That would be like a cop, buying his own police car.

My rear turn lamps were "engineered with enough LED chips to draw enough electricity, so that they do not hyper flash. Now that I look on amazon, the ones I purchased are no longer available. But similar styles exist. The math behind it is if each little LED is only drawing 1/2 watt, then 40 of those little LED will draw 20 watt. In theory, there is enough amp draw so that your BCM does not think that the halogen lamp has burned out. For your high beams, you can use the same lamps that you have in your low beam......Since they are both H11. The high beam reflectors will project light in a wider, flood pattern.

Interesting. A tube is usually used to carry small amounts of EMT pipe on ladder racks. You can buy them. Or simply use a large piece of PVC. Great idea to use a tarp & EMT pipe, and to use longer bolts so that you can attach the awning to the carrier when setting it up. Reminds me of how we used teach kids to pitch "tee-pee" tents with PVC. I've seen a lot of different set-ups with EMT & tarp. Nothing that you can't take apart, and set up again somewhere else. And just good enough for a few days use when you're camped out. You are brilliant.

Did you go from New York to Connecticut, which is only about 100 miles? Or New York to Colorado, which is a little over 1800 miles? Tully, My ex used to get all of these coupons, go shopping, then come home to tell me how she got a dress, top, shoes, bags........and saved 25%. I stayed home, didn't buy a dress, top, shoes, bags......and saved 100% 5150

LED drop in lamp technology has changed by leaps & bounds. Even within the last few years. When I bought the Transit Connect in 2016, the latest technology was to use LED on 4 sides to mimic the 360 degree lighting of the OEM halogen. In theory, you will have an equal amount of useable lighting, bouncing off every part of the reflector. As we speak 2 years down the road, that seller is no longer in the business of selling LED lamps. Look for some kind of warranty. Just be aware that the warranty is useless when the company is out of business. In today's market, what you want to look for is an adjustable beam. See the fastener near the red gasket? You can loosen it, and turn the chips to aim them, then tighten the screw once the are in the correct position. Ideally, the LED chips are facing sideways, in the 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock positions. Notice that the photo also shows a cooling fan at the base, and an inline LED driver. You want both of those features. Some do not have a cooling fan. The driver, like a ballast, is essential to regulate the amount of electricity so that you do not have a fire! Some models have no such safety device. I do not have this brand, do not know if it is good, and am not endorsing the product. This was just the first image that I found with all of the desired features. There are only a handful of factories in Shenzhen, China which produce LED lighting. From those factories, come hundreds of brands sold in stores, and online. Some claim to be US companies, and they probably are. But look carefully. It will be a US based company, with manufacturing overseas. I know of a local company which claims Made In U.S.A. They get all components manufactured in China, shipped to U.S.A. for final assembly. Some "companies" are just a handful of people in an office in U.S.A., with drop shipping from the factory in China. It could even be 1 person, living the U.S.A. and working out of their home, with fulfillment by Amazon......which I have seen locally. What kind of adhesive did you use for mounting off road lights? I am curious as to how well the adhesive holds up to dissimilar substrate, heat, road conditions, et cetera. Start a new post to show off your camera installation.

That's one less thing to worry about. One more item checked off the list. What was the part no. on that item?

No chance of sitting around and having nothing to do.

I lifted my hood today. Take a look at where the hood hinges are. No trees on my block to park under. Those leaves don't look familiar at all. My best guess is from leaves just blowing in the air. Now I've got to get a vacuum with a crevice tool, a very long extension cord, or just find someone who can suck & blow hard.

Let me know if those work out. If the base fits, and the lamps flash without hyper flash. In case anyone is interested, here are photos of the OEM lamp.

I curious about these old toilet dispensers that you were able to repurpose. What do they look like? Do you have a close up photo? Is this item something like a machine which sells condoms at a glory hole? Is the part still in production & available, or is it so "vintage" that the company is out of business?

Very well done. I applaud your success. And thanks for returning to the forum to share your update. Sharing your efforts, and making it easier for the next guy, is what car forums are all about. Now on to hijacking threads, personal opinions, and everything which is not politically correct!

Look up Adrian Steel. All sorts of options are out there for bulkheads. Many manufacturers. You may even find them used.

I would like to see how you set up the fog & driving lights. How did you mount, wire, and switch them? What did you use to for the front turn signal lamp? That is the one lamp that I haven't been able to source an LED replacement for. Which brand & part number?