Fifty150

I wonder if you've got enough leg room. Ultimately, it will be your wife's comfort. Aunt Edna could strap to the roof. The dog could strap to the rear bumper. And you could have a different set of kids in each movie.

Over $5,000 after installation. How can tires be that expensive?

The stick shift is already out. Most cars are automatic only. Idea for me would be a cabover design, with a flatbed, where the van body is actually like a lightweight carbon fiber camper shell which you can remove or install at will. A flip over cab allows for easy access to service the engine and transmission. You could also have a mid engine & all wheel drive, since the cab and flatbed are raised over anything mechanical. Imagine being able to side load with a forklift, strap down your load, then place the van body shell back on. With the size of the Transit Connect, you could load 2 small pallets, if the pallets are approximately 4'X4', and no more than 5' or 6' high. Jump seats could also be configured to be easily removed and installed. But that would be way too "commercial", and not safe without airbags for those passengers in the rear. Just my own crazy idea of what could be done with a small platform. Not entire practical for anyone else except me.

I'm looking ahead. If Ford sells a Courier or Fiesta pickup truck, maybe that will be the car that you add power to. In Brazil, there's a little Ford Fiesta/Courier type pickup, with 110 HP, which they get up to 160 HP, and race. Although at this point, I don't see a US market demand. But who knows what the future may hold. In another 5 or 10 years, technology will be way more advanced and we could have all sorts of new power platforms. No point in looking back in time, and wondering about 2 spare tires bolted to the floor of a 1st generation Transit Connect. To the real dreamers.........take a Transit Connect van, eliminate the front engine and transmission completely, mount a 302 + transmission right behind the front seats, and you will have a mid-engine, rear wheel drive, 5.0.

My time and energy is better spent with a cold beer, a fistfull of singles, and girls trying to work their way through college by dancing on a pole.

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https://www.magnaflow.com/catalytic-converters/catalytic-converters/federal/products SHOWING 2 OF 2 RESULTS PART # 52152 LOCATIONFRONT SERIESOEM GRADE TYPEDIRECT-FIT PART TYPECATALYTIC CONVERTER PART # 52270 LOCATIONREAR SERIESOEM GRADE TYPEDIRECT-FIT PART TYPECATALYTIC CONVERTER

Your 2010 model year may be out of warranty. But ask if an "after warranty adjustment" can be applied. Federal Emissions Warranty Coverage During the warranty coverage period, Ford Motor Company warrants that: Your vehicle or engine is designed, built, and equipped to meet – at the time it is sold - the emissions regulations of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Your vehicle or engine is free from emission-related defects in factory-supplied materials or workmanship, which are defects that could prevent the vehicle or engine from conforming to applicable EPA regulations. You will not be charged for diagnosis, repair, replacement, or adjustment of parts containing an emissions-related defect. The warranty coverage period for: Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500 pounds GVWR) The emission warranty coverage period is 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converters, electronic emission control units, and onboard emissions diagnostic devices. All other parts covered under your emissions warranty are warranted for 3 years or 36,000 miles whichever comes first. Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to 19,500 pounds GVWR) The emissions warranty coverage period for heavy duty vehicles (HDVs) is 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever comes first) for all parts covered by your emissions warranty. Only for HDVs not designated as “vocational vehicles” on the underhood “VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION” label: The 5 year/50,000 mile warranty includes coverage of components whose failure would increase the vehicle’s emissions of air conditioning refrigerants. Only for HDVs designated as “vocational vehicles” on the underhood “VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION” label: Tire defects that affect compliance with emission standards are covered for 2 years or 24,000 miles, whichever comes first. Emissions Performance Warranty Coverage Under Emissions Performance Warranty Coverage, Ford Motor Company will repair, replace, or adjust - with no charge for labor, diagnosis, or parts - any emissions control device or system, if you meet all of the following conditions: Your vehicle fails to conform, during the warranty coverage period, to the applicable national EPA standards, as determined by an EPA approved inspection and maintenance program. You are subject to a penalty or sanction under local, state, or federal law because your vehicle has failed to conform to the emissions standards. (A penalty or sanction can include being denied the right to use your vehicle.) Your vehicle has not been tampered with, misused, or abused. Warranty coverage period for: Passenger cars, light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500 pounds GVWR) T8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converter, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard emissions diagnostic devices. 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other covered parts. Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 lbs. GVWR up to 19,500 lbs. GVWR) 5 years or 50,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all covered parts. California Emissions Warranty Coverage For Vehicles Eligible for California Emission Warranty Coverage If Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is 14,000 lbs. or less For 3 years or 50,000 miles (whichever first occurs): If your vehicle fails a Smog Check inspection, all necessary repairs and adjustments will be made by Ford to ensure that your vehicle passes the inspection. This is your emission control system PERFORMANCE WARRANTY. If any emissions-related part on your vehicle is defective, the part will be repaired or replaced by Ford. This is your short-term emission control system, DEFECTS WARRANTY. For 7 years or 70,000 miles (whichever first occurs): If an emissions-related part listed on pages 27 and 28 with coverage for 7 years or 70,000 miles is defective or if its failure causes your vehicle to fail a Smog Check inspection, the part will be repaired or replaced by Ford. This is your long-term emission control system DEFECTS WARRANTY. If Gross Vehicle Weight rating is 14,000 lbs. or more For 5 years or 50,000 miles (gasoline powered engines and vehicles) or 5 years or 100,000 miles (diesel powered engines and vehicles) (whichever first occurs): If an emissions-related part on your vehicle is defective, the part will be repaired or replaced by Ford. This is your emission control system DEFECTS WARRANTY. For Vehicles Eligible for California PZEV Emission Warranty Coverage For 15 years or 150,000 miles (whichever first occurs): If an emissions-related part on your vehicle is defective, the part will be repaired or replaced by Ford. This is your emissions control system DEFECTS WARRANTY. If your vehicle fails a Smog Check inspection, all necessary repairs and adjustments will be made by Ford to ensure that your vehicle passes the inspection. This is your emission control system PERFORMANCE WARRANTY.

http://etereman.com/blog/ford-transmission-2/expert-tips-to-extend-the-life-of-the-4f27e-transmission Expert Tips to Extend the Life of the 4F27E Transmission Posted by Regis on Thursday, February 21st, 2013 The 4F27E is an automatic trans-axle used by both Ford and Mazda. This transmission replaced the Ford CD4E. Mazda actually refers to the transmission as the FN4A-EL. The transmission has four forward gears, one of which is an overdrive gear. The 4F27E transmission was first put into production in 2000 and is still made today. Although a decent transmission, it still has its fair share of problems. Source: lentechautomatics.com The 4F27E has a number of electrical solenoids. The solenoids are subject to failure which can result in a host of transmission problems. To access the solenoids, all one needs to do is drop the transmission pan. All solenoids are mounted to the bottom of the valve body. They can be checked quickly using an ohm meter to determine the resistance in the wire coils housed inside the solenoids. Please refer to the owner’s manual for the correct readings. If the reading is too low, then you likely have a short in the coil pack. If you get no reading, then you most likely have a broken wire in the coil. Another common area of failure involves the accumulator. Often the accumulator bore will get damaged and the piston will stick. The accumulator is designed to take some of the fluid while a component is being applied, prevent that band or clutch from applying too quickly. If the accumulator sticks in the wrong position you could end up with some very harsh shifts. Source: Atsg.com Here are a few things you can do to help extend the life of your 4F27E: 1) Install an aftermarket transmission cooler. Excessive heat is the number one killer of automatic transmissions. Be sure to mount it somewhere where it will get good air flow. If finding a place to mount it with good airflow becomes a problem, consider buying a cooler with a built in fan. This will allow you to mount the cooler almost anywhere, including to the body. While you’re at it, you might as well install a transmission temperature gauge so you can keep an eye on the temperature. 2) Use a synthetic fluid. Just be sure to use one that has the same properties as the recommended organic fluid. Synthetic fluids tend to be much more resilient to breaking down from excessive heat. In theory, you can also go longer between oil changes. Don’t forget to change the filter with a high quality unit at the same time you replace the fluid. 3) Get yourself a shift kit. By modifying the timing of the shifts and the way the clutches and bands apply, you can prevent excessive wear and heat buildup. Source: Cascadetransmission.com If you get to the point where it makes more sense to replace the transmission than fix it, consider going with a re-manufactured transmission instead of one that was simply rebuilt. There are a lot of older compact Fords and Mazdas out there being driven by families struggling to get by, or college students paying off loans. Transmission maintenance can prevent problems, but if one of these transmissions fails, you can help out your customers by cutting costs. While just as good as a new transmission, a re-manufactured transmission costs a whole lot less. They also usually include upgrades that will make the transmission more durable. A re-manufactured transmission also comes with a much better warranty: three years compared to 90 days for a rebuilt transmission.

A complete engine & transmission swap may not be feasible. You are better off getting the correct transmission for your van. As always the discussion with a bad transmission, your options really are to install a used transmission, have your transmission rebuilt, or install a remanufactured transmission. The good news is that you have a vehicle which is equipped with a transmission used in several different cars, has been in service for quite some time, and that there are parts, kits, and even a Ford remanufactured transmission. Technicians should be familiar with the transmission. You may even find a dealership with a transmission tech who has a lot of training and experience with this model. The best option, for reliability, is to install a remanufactured transmission. If you have a transmission shop who is offering to rebuild the transmission for you; question just how much training & experience that shop tech has in rebuilding your particular transmission. Do you trust him to do a better job of rebuilding, than a factory which remanufactures? In some cases, if you find a shop which specializes in your transmission, then the best option is to let that shop rebuild. But considering that Transit Connect isn't a Mustang or F-150, you already know the answer. Your local shop does not specialize in Transit Connect, and probably does not know enough about your car, to rebuild your transmission to your satisfaction. A used transmission may be the least expensive option for purchase of parts. Same labor. And if you save a little money upfront, with a used transmission......ask yourself how long that transmission will last. That used transmission already has XXXXX miles of wear & tear. You don't want to buy a 50,000 mile used transmission, only to have it fail at 60,000, once it's installed into your van. Used transmissions may be good for someone competent enough to tear it down, buy a rebuild kit, then install yourself. In which case, you could probably just buy a rebuild kit, and rebuild what you already have.

Interesting. Not entirely useful. Mainly because I am a fat American, and I can't imagine squeezing 2 fat people into that small space. But interesting. You will need 2 very small people to squeeze in there. It also looks like you lose the center console & cup holder. I don't even think that is legal in USA. I recall something about the seat being 18" in width, and equipped with a safety belt. From the photo, that middle seat does not appear to be 18" wide. Although I am probably wrong about 18", but there has to be a minimum seat width. After all, you can't install a belt & buckle every 12", and call the back seat of an economy car 4 passenger seating capacity. It would be interesting to re-engineer with a full bench seat, column mounted transmission, and a floor pedal for the emergency brake.

Clean the connection. Dirt and debris may cause an arc fault. Inspect wiring for damage. Check for continuity.

That sounds like a common problem on 4 speed transmissions going into lockup or overdrive. Big issue with the 4RXXX series of Ford transmissions. Gary should have recommended a complete fluid exchange. First, get out all of the contaminated fluid. The transmission may not shudder once you are operating with clean fluid. Next would be to drop the transmission. Your choice would be to either install a remanufactured transmission (expensive). Or allow Gary to take apart the transmission, diagnose the problem, correctly rebuild the transmission replacing all wear items, and reinstall the transmission. Even more expensive, depending on what Gary charges for labor & parts. Do you really trust Gary, who thinks that $5 worth of friction modifier actually fixes worn internal components and contaminated fluid, to troubleshoot and rebuild your transmission? Let's say Gary gets on the job right away. He spends a day taking your transmission down, another day of two opening it up & and repairing to the best of his ability with a tube of LubeGard, and hopefully it's only 1 week's worth of Gary's labor + parts. Now you will have to trust that Gary has full knowledge of your transmission model, and has all the skill, training, & experience to rebuild it as good as new. Or pay a transmission shop for a remanufactured transmission, built at a factory, which they can install in 1 day? Gary may be a good mechanic. But he is probably not a transmission builder. Same way the lube technician is not an engine builder. LubeGard & Lucas Oil Transmission Fix is strictly amateur, do-it-yourself in the driveway, & cross your fingers. Your transmission is shuddering because the contaminants in your fluid are clogging passages, and interfering with proper engagement. In the process, moving parts which depend on your transmission fluid to be clean, are most likely damaged and need to be replaced. A little extra thick goop may provide temporary relief. But there is not mechanical solution in a $5 tube. From the best of my recollection, You are always suppose to replace contaminated fluid with fresh fluid, then add the lubrication additive. Adding friction modifiers to contaminated fluid is just not a good idea.

A common problem with a lot of Fords is the faulty blend door actuator. Switches and blends from hot to cold air, directs the heat or AC to the correct passage. Try that first.

You are not going to fit a 14' kayak inside, when 8' of plywood won't fit.

Sure. Hit the brakes suddenly. Run over a speed bump. Drive on uneven pavement. That plywood won't come down and hit you on the head.

In the old days, Ford had poor quality switches. The little spin dial on the dash didn't work properly, or the multi-function switch stalk on the steering column. Some people were able to remove them and clean the contacts, and they worked again. Some people simply installed new parts. With any luck, you should be able to pickup those parts, install with a little dielectric grease, and you'll be back on the road. No way any and all of those issues are on the same circuit, so it probably won't be fuse or relay. Worst case scenario, it could be an issue with the Body Control Module which controls the lighting. As for the air bag light.....Not fun. A lot of work. Take apart all of the panels to get to the airbags, removing them, cleaning the contacts, and reassembling.

Except for the part where they bolted 2 spare tires to the cargo floor. With a lot of cars on the road, people tend to modify them to gain performance. HP, torque, traction, stopping distance, cornering.......this is why SEMA exist and there is a huge convention in Las Vegas every year. Most of those car owners think that the factory should have sold the car in it's modified condition. After all, who wouldn't want to buy a car which was already tuned to maximum ability, instead of buying a car that you put more money into? Worry not. This is just proof, that Transit Connect could be better. Now someone just has to build a SEMA ready version, bring it to SEMA, and be able to produce and bring all the necessary parts to market. Every piece needed from fabricated adapters, to custom mounting pieces, to the motor, the turbo, the exhaust, the reinforced transmission, the manual shifter knob........and somehow find a way to sell those kits to Transit Connect owners and not go bankrupt. I would look, admire, and then scoff. If I wanted a performance car, I would have bought a different car. Just my opinion. If I take my $20K Transit Connect, and add in $10K worth of upgrades, I may as well spend $30K on a car with better performance. I drive an F-150, not a Raptor. Ford figured out that there was a market for a basic utility truck, and room for a performance truck. Along the way, they must have figured out that there is no market for a performance van. Same way that Ford never built an Econoline 4X4 van, built off the F-Series 4X4 truck. Yet, there is an aftermarket where you can have a 4X4 van built. I think an All Wheel Drive Transit Connect would enter the market before a fast Transit Connect. Maybe built from an AWD Escape platform. But it sure is neat to look at something like that, and admire it. Anyone consider building a Transit Connect - Escape Frankenstein Van with AWD?

A softer tire with better traction, will yield less in tire life. You'll spend more, to replace them more often. It's all worth it if you are gaining better traction. You will be safer. With a little tap of the throttle, the tires spin to gain traction. Imagine when the tires are already spinning, at a mile a minute, and you apply the brakes. Will your tires have to necessary traction for you to stop on a dime from 60 mph? Now change the road conditions from dry, to wet. Driving conditions vary, along with driving style. For my use, the stock tires are performing at a satisfactory level.

Same procedure with every car. Look under the car to see where the OEM wires go into the cab. Usually, there's already a big rubber grommet which you can easily slide another wire through alongside. Worse comes to worse, zip tie your wire run alongside the OEM wire run, drill a hole next to the OEM hole, and use a grommet. What are you trying to do? If you need extra power in the cab, you should be able to simply add a fuse at the fuse box, instead of running a new circuit from the battery.

Passenger wagon & cargo van have the same exact suspension. They did not retune the suspension for passenger wagon comfort. The rear suspension is just a coil spring with a shock absorber alongside. This is designed for cargo weight in the rear to balance against the engine & transmission in the front of the car. Not engineered for comfort. The best seat is 1st row driver & passenger, since it is midpoint between the front & rear wheels. From there on back, it's bouncy time. The 3rd row sits right above the rear wheels. It's a better ride than my truck. But far from luxury car comfort. Kids don't seem to mind. My friends don't complain, since the seats are wider, and there's more headroom & legroom, than any of their more expensive crossovers. As one of my buddies pointed out, it's no more or less comfortable than those shuttle vans that you take from the airport.......i.e. Ford E150 or Transit E150. Same rubber floor, same cloth seats, same big windows, same bumpy ride, same amount ambient noise. I just make sure that there's a basket of fruit, warm muffins, morning papers, and fresh squeezed juice when I go to pick them up. Less cost. That is true with everything on every car. Whatever you do yourself, will save what you will have to pay someone else. There is a gas station near me with a service bay. If I supply the oil & filter, he will do it for $15. A dollar a minute. A couple of neighborhood guys go there, since they don't want to hassle with doing an oil change in the street - like me. It's just an oil change. The guy is competent enough that he uses hand tools instead of air tools, won't overtorque, cross-thread, or strip your drain bolt, and he won't over-tighten the oil filter. It's not the oil change. That's easy. It's the fact that he has a lift. And you don't have to deal with rebottling the used oil and disposal of the used oil and filter. He told me once that for the same $15, he'll put the car on the lift, and he'll let me turn the wrench myself while he drinks a cup of coffee. He's seen me doing my own service work out on the street. Corner mechanic next to my ex girlfriend used to work on her car for free, because I helped him out here and there......just things like when you need an extra hand to hold onto something, someone to pump the brake pedal, unlock the shop on a Saturday to allow customers to drop off cars so that he can spend the morning with his kids at little league, or tell his wife that he was with me at the bar when he was really out with his girlfriend.

They're not going to have much in the way of curbside appeal, unless you're really into vans.

All hardware is sold that way. Buy 10,000, and they cost next to nothing. Buy just 2, and you pay a fortune. I just paid $3 for 2 screws. Screws which should have sold for $0.03, if I ordered 10,000. Just as important with these types of fasteners is having a good tool. You will see all sorts of online videos where people use a couple of wrenches, a bolt, a washer, and whatever......but the best thing to do is to have the correct tool.....Fabricate your own system, and you will have different results.

For the commercial user, interior volume of the van is crucial. It comes down to "what can I fit?" In the USA, there are certain measurements which every tradesman considers. Plywood, sheetrock, MDF board.....all 8'X4'. This is why people choose American pickup trucks over imports. Pipe is sold in 10' lengths. Electricians & plumbers use a lot of pipe. Big disappointment when you are on small jobs, and you can't get 1,000' of pipe into the vehicle. Another consideration is how much weight can this carry? I can tell you from first hand experience, that just because it fits, it does not mean that you want to transport it in your van. It all depends on who is driving it, and what they are doing with it. I can use my Transit Connect for large construction projects. Such jobs are big enough that all material is delivered on a flatbed from a distributor. The only thing in my Transit Connect would be personal items like.......lunch, a change of clothes, extra safety equipment, and personal tools which I prefer. I could get away with going to work in a Prius. Everything else is on the jobsite, in a trailer or shipping container. However, not everyone works on large construction projects. And plenty of tradesmen do carry all of their tools and supplies. If that Nissan offers a better interior configuration, then they should work out well for that purpose. Commercial users want function. Very few consider how cute the vehicle looks.

A decade ago, ScanGauge II was all the rage. A lot of us shelled out some big bucks. It was like having an in-dash code reader. And gave us all the data that setting up a couple of mechanical gauges could not. In today's world, with current technology, you can have so much more, for so much less. An OBDII BlueTooth device is about $5 - $10. A lot of good apps are free. I still love the ScanGauge II in the dash of my F-150. I play with it all the time. Still kind of upset that it cost so much. I would buy another one right now, if the price went down. But in the Transit Connect, I'm using a tablet computer to do the same thing........and it cost a lot less to do so.