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Everything posted by Fifty150
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This is also the same platform for the Escape. You may be able find use for Escape parts on your Transit Connect. What kind of mods are you dreaming up?
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You can buy pipes, elbows, and bends from Summit Racing. Then either use clamp on couplings or weld. Custom exhaust can be DIY. That is a really big muffler, which also appears to restrict the exhaust flow. Deleting the muffler will just sound bad. Maybe replacing the resonator with a glasspack unit may sound okay. I just don't think there's much to gain, performance wise, from exhaust work on this car. But it would still be fun to try something out. How about removing everything from the catalytic converter back? 2 bolts will disconnect the flange in front of the resonator. Then you could use a glass pack, and turn down. Maybe even use a Y-Pipe, route the exhaust out the sides, in front of the rear wheel. From the best of my recollection, MagnaFlow is a responsive company. Try contacting them. Maybe send that OEM exhaust diagram, and see if they have any recommendations.
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Why would you order that from Poland? For parts like that, I have a local speed shop. What I'm finding out is that most of the country does not have small, independent, speed shops. Most of The USA is buying auto parts over-the-counter, from a chain like AutoZone, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's......or ordering online from Summit Racing. I will buy from Summit Racing, 4 Wheel Parts, Amazon, Jegs......whoever has the lowest pricing. But if I need something immediately, and can't wait for shipping, then I am at the local speed shop, paying whatever the mark-up, because they have it in stock.
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Get it custom made. Go to a metal shop. Give them the piece off the bottom of your van. Today, they could use AutoCAD to produce a piece in exact dimensions. I don'[t know if it will be worth the cost. But you'll have what you want.
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-640022-1?rrec=true Summit Racing® Exhaust Tubing SUM-640022-1 $12.99 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/svr-xtd214/overview/ Silverline Exhaust Tips XTD214 $13.99
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I'm looking at that diagram. Part 6 & 8 could be deleted. Replace it with a straight pipe. No muffler. A turn down tip, just like the OEM design, would direct the noise at the ground, so that you bother people with a lot of noise. If you did not have the spare tire, you could install a glass pack to make the exhaust note sound nice.
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The North American market is dominated by gasoline. Politics. Money. Probably a combination of both. There's probably a very good reason why it's so difficult to sell diesel engines in The USA. Ever notice how many gas stations don't even sell diesel? Then there's the clean bio-diesel option. I live in a major metropolitan area. I can't find any within city limits. And it's just not an option for me to drive 25 miles to the nearest bio-diesel seller, then 25 miles back home. Who goes 50 miles out of their way to buy gas? I would buy diesel if it didn't cost more, and bio-diesel fuel was more widely available. Same reason why I don't own a car which is capable of E85. It cost more, and you can't buy the E85 anywhere.
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Obviously, you guys don't like stickers either. I want to believe that some of these kids know that stickers, wider wheels & tires, a spoiler........none of those things add horsepower. I think most of them do it because they like the way it looks. I remember when people installed body kits to make their car look lower to the ground. Then every steep driveway and speed bump destroyed the expensive body kit. Same way kids do "home made" lift kits which are just plain stupid & dangerous. Despite what a lot of people think is stupid, dangerous, useless.............there's a huge aftermarket for auto parts which are stupid, dangerous, and useless. Mind boggling. Unless that teenager is an engineer and able to manufacture his own parts - he's buying those parts. And somebody is producing them in volume.
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That is excellent mileage.
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I think it's 2.25". Although I haven't crawled underneath to measure it either.
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Try http://www.lkqcorp.com/en-us/Inventory-Search
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Don't trust the onboard system in any car. Real world miles between fillups is the only accurate information. I saw a Dodge Ram reporting 18 MPG, but it really got 12 - 14, like every other 1/2 ton truck. Torque Lite says that My Transit Connect gets 35.
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Sorry. I wasn't clear. My fault. I meant the 6F series. 6F35, 6F50, 6F55. Like what's in the 2nd generation Transit Connect. As I recollect, a lot of complaints about the Ford 4R 4 speed transmissions also. People called those weak. Complaints regarding longevity and service life. Same as you hear now about 6F transmissions. Yet millions of these are in use across the world. Many still running fine I wonder what the transmission failure rate is, and what is acceptable. 1 transmission failure out of 1,000, 10, O00, 100,000? Hondas have notoriously weak automatic transmissions. But they keep selling weak trannies in larger cars with bigger engines. And Ford will even sell a transmission known to be defective. But then again, some companies sell an entire car which they know is defective.
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The 6 speed transmission is weak. But not defective in design. I see a lot of police cars in the dealership with transmissions out. The 6 speed transmission does fail under severe duty and pursuit. There's an upgraded cooler. There are different calibrations for shift strategy. But probably not much different internally. A police car could log a lot of hard miles in a year.
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Dobby my 2010 Ford Transit Connect XLT(soon to be camper lol)
Fifty150 replied to Deryk the Gypsy's topic in Welcome!
We'll all find out after you do it. I do not like anything on when the vehicle isn't running. But that's just paranoia from old tech, in old cars, where everything drained the battery. I'm pretty sure that someone here could do the math and figure out what the fan's draw actually is, and how long you can run it in theory. Because everyone's battery is in a different condition. You may have a brand new battery. I may have a battery which is a few years old, and it may discharge faster. -
CARGO LIGHT REMOVAL
Fifty150 replied to windguy's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lights, Mirrors, Window Tint & Wipers
From driving cargo vans of yesteryear.....back then, I wish I had a nice, bright light....in the old vans, some didn't have a lamp at all, and some had lamps so dim, you couldn't see anything. -
Overall, it looks good. Good job! Did you buy the van new, with the mesh screen? I've seen similar items as an aftermarket option. I didn't know that those were now being sold installed at the dealership level. Those are great for cargo. Anyone who has broken a window will know.
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I started buying ATF & motor oil in 6 gallon "bag in a box" enviro-packs. Dilemma was transferring fluid from container to vehicle. Bag-In-A-Box has a spout, so it's just like boxed wine. My solution was to buy dispenser bottles. Measurement marks on both sides for quarts and liters. Flexible pour spout. I attach a 3/4" ID, 1" OD length of vinyl tubing to the end of the spout. This allows me to insert the tube into the engine or transmission. No more funnels. I found these items on Amazon for a significantly lower price than my local stores. Lisle 19752 Red Oil Dispenser - 6 Quart Capacity https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ETVOP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3/4" ID Low Pressure Clear Flexible PVC Tubing https://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00LX6MIV4/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new
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When I lived in El Paso, summer lightning storms over the desert were bad enough to interfere with air travel. 22.94 is good mileage for what you are describing. Especially with a full load, air conditioning running, and higher speeds with higher RPMs. I have partial records for fuel usage. Odometer miles, amount of fuel, and cost. I can see that my MPG low was 14, and high was 27.3.
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Removing cross bars are not going to give you any significant gain. At least not in the way of getting 30 MPG like some members claim. It could help.....maybe 1/2 MPG. For the record, if someone says that they are getting close to 30 MPG - I believe it. Driving style, fuel type, road conditions, gross vehicle weight......many factors involved here. Donuts, if you turn off the air conditioning, set your cruise control at 55 MPH, keep the windows rolled up, remove all of your passengers, cargo, seating, interior - basically anything & everything to lighten the load, install tires with the least rolling resistance, tie your dog to the rear bumper, tie grandma to a rocking chair onto the roof.....or just slam your fingers in the car door repeatedly..... 22.3 MPG is good mileage for the driving conditions which you described. Believe me. I've seen lows of 15 & 16 MPG. Now share some of those crazy road trip stories. What did you see alongside the road? Post some pics of those roadside attractions. Stop at a truck stop for a shower. Tell us about the hitchhikers you picked up.
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Rear Door Mounting - Channels
Fifty150 replied to tp_connectic's topic in Accessories and Modifications
Think about closet systems engineered to mount to hollow walls. There are vertical pieces which attach to the wall with many fasteners. This distributes the total weight of the shelving system and whatever goes on the shelf. Hundreds of pounds could be placed on a shelving system fastened to hollow walls. I'm thinking that on any van door, you could install 3 pieces of unistrut vertically, with perhaps 3 attachments to the door. Rivet nuts seem like a good idea. Except that it puts all the weight against the outer door skin. Or you could drill 3/8" holes all the way through the door, and anchor with a combination of bolt, washer,, lock washer, nut. Then you could mount your accessory rails horizontally on the 3 vertical pieces of unistrut. Somebody with a welder might have other ideas. My concern would be the weight, road vibrations, and what that would do to the way the door hangs on the hinges. With enough use, and enough weight, you could end up with crooked doors that won't close. -
Installing aftermarket head unit and need a few wires
Fifty150 replied to wb6vpm's topic in Audio, Navigation and SYNC
Maybe with the 2013, you can also buy the harness adapter. Then you won't have to splice into any OEM wires. -
Dobby my 2010 Ford Transit Connect XLT(soon to be camper lol)
Fifty150 replied to Deryk the Gypsy's topic in Welcome!
From what I recall, if you pan on installing a lot of electronics, you should use a battery isolator to protect the battery under the hood which operates your car. Then you can run a 2nd battery for all of your electronics. 2nd battery would be a must for any camper conversion. -
It has been discussed. You can look for spacers. Wheelchair transport companies lift minivans all the time.