Fifty150

As an FYI, at my place of employment, our Econoline fleet all came with Adrian Steel products. If anyone is interested in industrial use (ladders, pipe, plywood, et cetera), an industrial product may be a better choice. Thule & TracRac appear to be geared towards the recreational market (bikes, kayaks, skis, snowboards, et cetera). Ford Transit Connect: Products by Adrian Steel Adrian Steel has the van upfit products you need to make your Ford Transit Connect efficient and organized. Our flexible interiors maximize the space inside your Ford Transit Connect, whether you have a regular or extended wheelbase. Create the work space you need with our shelving, ladder racks, and more designed specifically for the Transit Connect! Transit Connect Van Products by Adrian Steel Partitions Grip-Lock Ladder Rack Van Shelving Trade Packages Window Screens Contact Us To purchase Adrian Steel products, find a distributor in your area. You may also email Adrian Steel at info@AdrianSteel.com, call us toll-free at (800) 677-2726, or contact us online.

For anyone interested, amazon.com has this one with a rubber cushion at the leverage point which prevents scratching your paint. Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover by Lisle 4.6 out of 5 stars 1,023 customer reviews | 12 answered questions Price: $7.19 Free shipping for Prime members when buying this Add-on Item. Details In Stock. Ships from and sold by Amazon.com. Eligible for donation.

As I gaze upon the traffic and congestion of life in the big city, Transit Connect vans are on every street and on every block. Yet, I alone have auto glass indicative of passenger usage. That is due to change with taxi fleet purchase. But I do feel alone in a crowded room. How is your van in the winter months?

There are actually a lot of options out there. The aftermarket has plenty of support for recreational and commercial use racks.

Did the dealer sell you the parts, and do the installation? Or did they sell you the parts, and you installed it yourself? There is an online video showing the installation of a ladder rack. The installer drilled out the oval hole to 1/2", then used a rivet nut which completely filled and covered the opening. What you could do is go to Tap Plastics and buy a piece of plastic sized to fit in the rain gutter and larger than the OEM plug, with a hole drilled in the center for whatever size hardware you are using. Use this as a spacer. Then apply silicone around the opening on your roof, place the Tap Plastics spacer over the hole, and install your rack with additional silicone between the Tap Plastics spacer and your rack. Or simply find a metal washer with a hole sized for your bolt, and big enough to cover the oval hole.

How are you using your vehicle? Commercial, personal, or mixed?

Hi 5

A used 2016? It's still 2016. How many miles are on it? What is the backstory? Repo? Rental? Lease return?

Apparently, the harness is different on the 2016. So Chuck needs the part number for the correct harness. Chuck wants to find the correct harness connectors for the 2016 model year, then splice them into his Curt 56218, so that he can then plug & play via the OEM harness. I would simply cut the Curt 56218 connectors off, and tap the wires right into the OEM wiring.

Windows stop working. Fuses blow. It's an imperfect world. Screws fall out all the time. Ideally, under optimum conditions, fuses do not blow when everything is operating correctly. Something happened, which caused a surge, which blew the fuse. Now, how do you go about finding the cause? Even though I understand the simplicity of 12V direct current X amperage = wattage, it still frustrates me when I can't figure it out. On one of my other vehicles, the OBD II port is tied into the same fuse as the cigarette lighter adapter. I couldn't figure out, no matter how hard I tried to, why that fuse blew. I'm just lucky that the fuse did blow, and my OBD II port did not get damaged.

I wouldn't give your dealer a "thumbs up" or "thumbs down". I want a new icon to click on, depicted with an image of "the finger". I know the owner of the local Unocal Station. I drive in, drink his free customer coffee, chat with him, and never buy his gas or allow his techs to work on my cars. The "air filter service" is an old trick that he learned 60 years ago, as a teenager working at someone else's service station. No white air filter will stay white once it's installed. By the time the customer rolls in for anything, even to have the tires inflated, you can always open the air intake box and pull out a dirty filter to show the customer. A $5 air filter could be re-sold by a service facility for $25 + free installation. It's a scam. The same way they put a little sticker in your windshield to have you bring your car back in 3,000 miles for the next oil change. Is there a local mechanic that you can trust? It sounds to me like you should not go back t that dealership.

Yikes. I see the signs all over town. "CHECK ENGINE LIGHT $50" That's about 44.62 Euros by today's rate. That's why I've always had code readers for my cars. I've got a ScanGauge II installed in the F-150. The SCT Flash devices and other handheld tuners also function as code readers. I also have a OBD II cable that plugs into my laptop's USB port, and that came with software for diagnostic trouble codes. I found an OBD II bluetooth dongle that works on the Transit Connect for about $7 or $8 on amazon.com, that works with my tablet computer and the Torque app. When all else fails, buying a $20 code reader or borrowing one is still better than paying for some shop to read your codes and turn your check engine light off.

You may have to resort to the old fashion method of using a tap connector.

I hope these videos on youtube help.

Sorry to hear that your local dealer is terrible. Did your dealer advise you in advance what they were going to do, and how much it will cost? In my state, by law, they have to give you an estimate of work to be performed & cost, prior to doing anything. And, you have to sign the work order authorization, or give your acknowledgement verbally (over the phone). Otherwise, they can't simply do whatever they want, or tell you they did something to your car, and then charge you for it. I am certain that you would have said no to $99, and changed he fuse yourself. The Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act (P.L. 93-637) is a United States federal law, (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.). Enacted in 1975, it is the federal statute that governs warranties on consumer products. Where is it specifically in the bumper to bumper warranty that says fuses are not covered? Did they show you the warranty subsection? With the new car warranty, it is suppose to be bumper to bumper for the first 3 years or 30,000 miles right? And even when you buy a car used, you still are entitled to the effective balance of the warranty from when the car was first sold. On my F-150, my dealer gave me an extra set of wiper blades. Wear items should be included, since nothing should wear out in the first 3 years. Nothing. Not the water pump, battery, lamps, drive belt, radiator, alternator, et cetera. Isn't that what bumper to bumper means? The drive train is suppose to be covered for 5 years or 50,000 miles. The tires have a completely different warranty. And you're suppose to get roadside assistance in case you need a jump start, tire changed, or tow for the first 5 years. The only time that they can void your warranty is if you do something to the car, where your actions are a direct result of the failure. If you lift your truck, and your new suspension plus larger wheels and tires wear out the brakes, or even worse, the transmission, drive shaft, rear end, and axles; them your warranty is void. If you perform a bunch of engine mods, then go street racing, and you blow your engine; you are out of luck. If you change out your lighting and your OEM lamp plugs melt, then you are at fault. If you swap out your factory head unit and now all sorts of things that were controlled through the head unit no longer work, there is no warranty for you. But there has to be a direct correlation. If you install a lift kit, and your wiper arms no longer work, then they still have to cover the wipers since one thing had nothing to do with the other. If you replace your OEM sound system, and the radiator starts to leak, your new subwoofers have nothing to do with a bad radiator. Have you tried going to another dealer in your area? In my local area, there are a lot of dealerships. This makes them a lot more competitive for my business. One local dealership has a children's play room, a refrigerator stocked with beverages, and a Starbucks coffee bar for customers. At another dealership, the parts counter guy will do all the little things like change lamps, change batteries, change fuses, inflate your tires, et cetera, because you bought it there. Sure, even the local Pep Boys will change your lamps and batteries, but service is getting harder to find. As I recall, they all give free car washes every time you drive in for whatever little reason. And all the local showrooms have pastries, daily newspapers, and free internet access. It doesn't sound like much. But it's leaps and bounds beyond a bad dealership experience. I guess the difference is when the local dealerships are actually independently owned, and the owner cares. If they want another $30K of my life savings the next time I'm ready to buy another car, they better not try to charge me $99 for changing a fuse.

I moved the smaller lamp behind the yellow lens used as a side marker, and replaced it with a different lamp with more LED pieces.

They were left over from another project. I originally had these next to the headlamp.

Great. You're paying fice cents, which is outrageous. But here, we have to pay ten cents, which is even worse.

Lamps similar to this were placed behind the yellow lens.

Ford Transit Connect 2016 Wheel fitment guide Please, note: highlighted items are for OEM wheels USDM Tire Rim Bolt pattern THD CB 1.6GTDi 178hp 215/55R16 6.5Jx16 ET50 5x108 M12 x 1.5 63.4 215/50R17 6.5Jx17 ET50 5x108 M12 x 1.5 63.4 2.5i 169hp 215/55R16 6.5Jx16 ET50 5x108 M12 x 1.5 63.4 215/50R17 6.5Jx17 ET50 5x108 M12 x 1.5 63.4 EUDM Tire Rim Bolt pattern THD CB 1.0Ti 99hp 205/60R16 6.5Jx16 ET50 5x108 M12 x 1.5 63.4 1.6TDCi 114hp 205/60R16 6.5Jx16 ET50 5x108 M12 x 1.5 63.4 1.6i 148hp 205/60R16 6.5Jx16 ET50 5x108 M12 x 1.5 63.4

The human factor. Not unique to any one particular dealership. The same mistake is repeated on a regular basis. All that extra tech work & parts will add up, and someone will notice. Sadly, in some cases, it's at the customer's inconvenience and expense. I'm certain that depending upon the customer's disposition, and the attitude of the service writer, not every outcome is in the interest of customer service. I wonder how many owners who did not have sufficient facts and/or knowledge had to pay out of pocket for such a mistake. I can see it. Service advisor gets the feeling that they can get away with it because it's a woman, senior, or perhaps an immigrant from another country; so he tells the customer that they stripped the threads and would now have to pay out of pocket for the repair. Many unscrupulous practices in this world, and a lot of shady people. Hopefully, someone will gain some knowledge from reading this thread and benefit from it. Perhaps point it out to the salesman prior to purchase, and get an agreement from the dealership to correct the issue as a condition of purchase.

In general, spacers are not a good idea. It's best to use wheels and tires that fit without clearance and turning issues. Offset & backspace are just as important as diameter & width measurements. Look online for fitment guides. Use the online wheel & tire calculators to spec the correct combination, then with the right measurements, shop for your aftermarket package.

I would have no problem pulling a trailer with motorcycles, if I did not already own a pickup truck for that purpose. This van was made to tow. Not tow anything heavy. But, it will easily tow within it's payload range.