Fifty150

U-Haul typically turns their cargo vans after a year or so. And in most cases, they have less than 10K. But every one of those miles was by someone abusing a van that they didn't own or care about.

A girl stopped me in the parking lot of a grocery store and asked what kind of car I had. It was raining. My liftgate was up. She was kind of amazed at how much room I had to work with. All the seating, with child seats, plus a folded up wheel chair, and a cooler for groceries. Yeah, I bring a cooler. I like to keep the cold stuff cold for the ride home. So as we're kind of huddled in under the liftgate to stay dry, she made it a point to tell me that she was single, and hated that cramped little crossover that her ex picked out.......we're going out this weekend. Although, I don't know if I can respect a girl who was married to a guy, who thought that Hyundai was how you spent $30K. We know what's wrong with him. But what is wrong with her, that she married him in the first place?

Or to encourage signage which says, "NO FAT CHICKS ALLOWED". http://www.cnn.com/2016/09/28/opinions/trumps-america-no-fat-chicks-filipovic/ Trump's America: No fat chicksBy Jill Filipovic

All the more reason to use LED which draw less electricity.

Oil blends are changing. Engine tolerances are different. Today';s car has a different level of technology. It's not 10W40 dinosaur juice in the old 350, where you added a half quart every 100 miles, only to change at 3000 miles.

Every dealer will give you a "courtesy car wash". Even if it's just hosing it off. Just ask for it. I doubt if they'll tell you "no". A local Honda/Acura dealer has an automated drive through car wash installed at the dealership. I bring my Fords there, and they will wash it and vacuum out the interior as a "courtesy".....because they want my business. Just tell the service advisor to wash the car if they want your business.....because you can go to the next dealer down the road who will give you a car wash. Just don't push it too far by demanding free little tree air fresheners.

This may be a recall item. Check with your dealership.

Interesting. This probably saves a few dollars from trying to get a factory conversion kit (if one even exist).

Big difference is that with the H13 in the F-150, both high beam and low beam combined, I only have 7200 lumen. With the Transit Connect, I can have 9600 lumen in the low beam, and 9600 lumen in the high beam, for a combined 19200 lumen. But there is not much that I can do about that, since it's almost impossible to change the headlamp housing to a different size or type.

Don, Check out the LED I am using in the F-150. Lamp head has a heat sink. Fan is detachable. Lamp & fan are powered separately. LED driver/ballast converts power from OEM headlamp socket to power headlamp and fan. This makes for easy trouble shooting and maintenance, if the need should arise. And allows you to change parts separately if need be. If the LED fails, just change that. If the fan stops working, replace with new fan. Switch the different parts around, so that you can isolate the problem. Different LED technology. These are CREE, as opposed to Philips operate at 7200 lumen (1800 lumen per LED), and function as low beam & high beam in one unit. But with the high beams on, I see everything I need to see when I'm off-road. No more 100W KC lights.

Depending on who is doing it, how familiar you are with performing the task, and how fast you can work, it could be 10 minutes. 10 minutes per side, or 10 minutes per lamp? Varies. After all, it's really not a lot of work, because you're not taking anything apart. Simply removing the rubber dust cap, removing the OEM lamp, and then inserting the LED lamp. Beta Don only spent 15 minutes per lamp (1 hour for 4). That's not bad. On other cars, you actually have to have tools to remove different pieces, in order to get to the lamps. On my F-150, the entire headlamp unit has to be removed from the body. I first bought the 2015 version with 4000 lumen as an Amazon Lightning Deal. Those were installed as low beam. Then I purchased the 2016 version with 4600 lumen for the high beams. Amazing how bright they are. I will never drive with yellow halogen on any car, ever again.

You could always set up flashing lights or a light bar.

A used 2016? It's still 2016. Was it a rental car?

Well, pricing will vary. We've all negotiated our out the door and final ownership cost to different amounts. My personal opinion is that I will only buy what I can afford. Payments means interest. And I don't like to pay more. I didn't know that the price variance was 6K from cargo to wagon. As several here have discovered, LED lights change your driving experience.

You should write an Amazon review and post pics.

LED lighting is only getting better and better. Cars should simply be built with LED. My 3rd brake lamp & license plate light came with OEM LED.

Greetings. How are things in The SouthLAnd? Last time I was in town, Jerry's Famous was still across the street from The Beverly Center.

This will probably work on a Transit Connect also.

One problem you might consider is that the roof of the van is not completely flat, but you should be able to work around that. No question about it. Unistrut offers a lot of options to a creative person. I've mounted plenty of off-road lights on Unistrut. Unistrut is a lot cheaper when you buy it from a builder's supply, or an electrical parts distributor. You can also get unistrut with holes already drilled. Funny that the holes under the plugs are also oval instead of round. http://www.unistrutohio.com/pierced-slotted-unistrut-channel/ Unistrut Pierced and Slotted Channel Strut P1000 Variations 12-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 1-5/8″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations Welded Back-to-back P1100 Variations 14-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 1-5/8″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations Welded Back-to-back P2000 Variations 16-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 1-5/8″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations Welded Back-to-back P3000 Variations 12-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 1-3/8″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations Welded Back-to-back P3300 Variations 12-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 1-7/8″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations Welded Back-to-back P4000 Variations 16-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 13/16″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations Welded Back-to-back P4100 Variations 14-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 13/16″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations Welded Back-to-back P5000 Variations 12-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 3-1/4″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations P5500 Variations 12-Gauge • 1-5/8″ x 2-7/16″ Available with Hole or Slot Combinations Also Available 1-5/8″ Unistrut Channel | 1-1/4″ Unistrut Channel | 13/16″ Unistrut Channel | General Unistrut Fittings | Pierced & Slotted Channels | 1-5/8″ Channel Nuts 1 2 3 4 - Or Call - 1-800-686-7303 REQUEST DESIGN & ENGINEERING Where to Buy? RIGHT HERE! We ship Genuine UNISTRUTproducts worldwide from our multiple US locations. Newsletter UNISTRUT UPDATES Sign-up to receive email updates regarding What's New in the world of UNISTRUT and the amazing new applications Subscribe Need a PE Stamp? UNISTRUT Professional Enginering Stamp We can provide a PE Stamp in all US states for your next UNISTRUT project. Learn More

....and even with the correct harness, there is still no telling what will work, and what won't work, with the new stereo being compatible with your vehicle.

Sorry. I don't know how that happened.

That is awesome

Interesting. You couldn't find a 7 seater. When I was looking around the dealerships, and checking inventory online, they were everywhere. But then again, it is still 2016, and you were looking for a used 2016. That usually means that availability would be limited to whatever the rental car companies are trading in, because most private owners don't trade in their cars within the same model year. I hope you saved enough money for it to be worth not buying the 7 seater that you really wanted. I imagine that you would be able to install the 2nd row 3 seat bench. The hardest part may be pricing and availability. Since seating is rarely a collision repair item, it's not as easy as getting a bumper or a door. You will probably need all the hardware, brackets, and latches. You may need to drill a hole here or there. If you're not worried about functionality, and only seating, then you could probably get a torch, cut what you need to, and weld it in permanently. I added 3rd row seats to an older SUV that didn't come with 3rd row seats. I've also added flip and fold jump-seats into the bed of pickup trucks. Once, I stripped seats out of an old school bus, and installed them into a cargo van. Being a guy who has owned Jeeps & trucks most of my life, welding and drilling holes into cars does not bother me. But other guys would never take a Sawzall, drill, or torch to their cars....even if the end result was getting what they wanted.