windguy

thanks GBL. yeah, too many hungry lawyers in these parts. I'll have to weigh my options. Luckily it's not a pressing issue. Will provide updates if they happen. appreciate all the insight.

I stopped by the local hitch shop today for a consult, story/saga below. When I asked them if they can move the receiver tube back 1.5" he said they wouldn't rebuild an existing hitch because of liability issues. I guess I can understand that reasoning. See the attached pic of all the hitches removed and ready for scrap pickup. Kind of artistic if you ask me. After I got home I called another hitch shop and they also said they couldn't modify an existing hitch because of liability but could create their own custom hitch. The place I visited suggested to put on the original bumper and if I want a hitch they can make one. I thought he meant that they would weld something to the original bumper frame. So I hopped over to the Ford dealer and looked at the original bumper on the new TC's on the lot. The original bumper frame is a lot different than the trailer hitch bumper frame. The tube isn't as square and it's kind of flimsy looking and not very sturdy in my opinion. There's no way the hitch shop would be attaching anything to that. Also, the bumper cover would have to be removed if you want to take that off. It's more flush to the bumper cover than the hitch bumper frame so there's very little wiggle room. Not an option I would consider doing. I called the hitch place back and he said they wouldn't use the original bumper. They would build a new hitch and attach it to the frame. That makes more sense. He said that would cost around $300 or so. Twice the price of a Curt hitch option so that's too costly. I asked if they can remove the hitch from the bumper frame that I have and he said that's doable for around $65 without having to remove the bumper to do the work. I'm guessing they would cut it off somehow. I think that's what poster GBL suggested earlier. I would lose the rear tow hook option if I do that but that's a risk I can live with. If I want to make the change, that might be my best solution and then I could get a Curt hitch if I need it in the future. Or just leave things as they are and dance around the thing for the next 20 years and perhaps figure out a way to pad it to provide some protection. One other thought was perhaps Ford would redesign this hitch option in the future to make it more flush to the bumper and then I could order that as a spare part (low probability of happening).

I was at my local Ford dealer for another reason and the sales guy that approached me said they are selling the TC for $100 over dealer invoice plus you get any incentives available. The pricing is a Ford thing and not this specific dealer. Not sure what that boils down to but the timing looks good right now if you can find one on the lot that works for you. Good luck!

@Booner - your plans sound great. Can't wait to see what you do with your build. I don't think there's very much room under the van to add anything. very little open areas. If you've got a cargo van model, then there is a zone of unused space behind the front seats where the 2nd row of seats would normally be on a wagon model. We discussed this in another thread where we tossed ideas around of how to capture this area. Please keep us posted.

interesting. thanks.

a little bit has to do with when you order versus the time frame of the production line. as KSTANLY posted, 6 months is a good estimate. I ordered my 2015 in July 2015 and production started in September that year and the van was made at the end of October. Delivery to my dealer was mid January, so about 2.5 months after the van was produced. If you want to special order a van and want to reduced the wait time, one option might be to find a dealer that has a van on order for their stock and see if you make that your order and change the configuration to meet your needs. It's my understanding that they can make changes to the order up until the van is slated for manufacturing. This might accelerate the wait time if you can work it out with the dealer and get your expected pricing. Will take some leg work on your part. Good luck!

@GBL - good input. Curious, do you rotate the spare through when you rotate the tires? With a regular steel wheel and wheel cover I assume that's possible. Not so with alu wheels. Also assume the spare is the same model tire, I hadn't checked.

haven't gone to the trailer hitch place yet, but I did practice dropping the spare tire. A good exercise all should do just to be familiar with it before the roadside flat change. I first read the manual, then dropped the tire, but was still confused as to how to undo the main cable. There are two cables, one main support cable and the second must be a safety. I was trying to position the bracket to go through the hub and having trouble trying to get it out so I had to consult the manual once more. Turns out you remove the main cable from the bracket first, which the manual says to do. Not intuitive looking at it. The cable releases from the bracket like a brake cable on a bike brake, has this small tab at the end of the cable. there isn't much clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the hitch. I can see if you have the Curt hitch solution, those cross support bars would make tire removal more difficult, even more so if you have a flat tire. Take a good look at the jack before you remove it from the bracket so you don't forget how to put it back afterwards. I hadn't done that. I also tried out the jack lifting the van just a little to check that part out too. Pretty straight forward there. Before lowering the spare, I wedged some wood scraps into the hitch and let that stick out 1.5" towards the spare to check the clearance. Once the tire starts to drop there is room to push the tire forward slightly to provide ample clearance. There are two nubs attached to the body above the tire that help lock the tire into position when the tire gets close to the frame. Minimal clearance between the spare and the muffler in front of it so don't think those nubs could be move forward but that would help provide more clearance to the hitch. I think the receiver tube can be moved 1.5" forward and not provide any obstruction to the spare. I wouldn't go any more than that. We'll see what the hitch shop has to say. Will report back when I learn more.

I like that light. nice addition. I'd like to do something similar in my van since the existing LED light off to the side is mostly blocked a cargo deck that I have hanging from the ceiling. the location they put the regular light for the wagon is much better centered in the back of the van above the doors. I'd like to add an off/on/door switch too.

Thanks, I had the same thoughts about having that done. I'm pretty sure this local shop can handle that task. http://eckharts.com/index.html For those interested in the Curt hitch, the link I provided earlier also shows a nice hitch installation video. I missed that the first time and can't provide a direct link to it, but the video link is below the group of product pictures. check it out. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Ford/Transit-Connect/2015/C13167.html?vehicleid=201522753 I think etrailer website does a nice job in how they promote their products.

one thing that I see from your pic is the difference between the side panels of a wagon vs the cargo model. the area circled in red on the attached pic shows an area that is optimized by the wagon. The cargo model has this area boxed in and not used that would make a nice compartment for storage, which the van lacks. makes you want to remove the side panels and make your own covers with storage. if only I had the time.

thanks. sorry I didn't remember about those pics on page 1. checked them out. I think the square tube that the ball mount goes into could have been positioned further forward and still be functional. it would encroach on the spare but there's extra room there. I've been looking at hitches on other cars, SUVS, pickups and none of them stick out beyond the edge of the bumper. I've got some options to consider.

nice job. can't wait to see more.

thanks GBL when you say clear the spare when the tire is flat, is your concern that with a flat tire, the van is lower and the spare might not clear the hitch after it's lowered because the lower hitch might block it? if that were the case you'd have to jack up the van before sliding the spare out. I was looking at the Curt hitch on etrailer, link below http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Ford/Transit+Connect/2015/C13167.html?vehicleid=201522753 the pictures of the van don't look like the US based TC Gen 2. so how does this hitch manage to stay within the boundary of the bumper and the Ford OEM extends beyond it? you would think that if one can do then the other can. is the receiver part the same length in terms of how deep it goes, front to back? not sure if there is some type of standard for how deep this needs to be. not much experience with hitches and towing. I'd like to see a comparison pic to the one below between the OEM and the Curt

thanks GBL I've got a hitch & welding shop in town that I plan to go consult with when I get some free time. before going I want to practice dropping the spare tire to see what's involved in doing so and what the tolerances are in that area between the spare and hitch. I'd be less inclined to remove the hitch part from the bumper frame. I'd loose the tow hook capability if ever needed so that would have to be remedied somehow.

not sure why that pic shows the hitch extending beyond the attachment bracket, where the part number is shown. that seems like it's a different hitch, maybe for a Gen 1 TC. maybe I'll swing by the local Ford parts and ask how much the original bumper frame is. might also find a local hitch place and pick their brain. will report back. thanks

thanks for sharing. looks like a nice solution for you. snow already? you must be at a higher elevation. my rear bumper has the parking sensors, so something like that would cover it up. I don't really crawl inside the van much at all so nut much need for a step. just grabbing stuff from the rear at ground level and sitting on the edge. so how hard would it be to swap bumpers? can it be done without removing the bumper cover? if you remove the four nuts on each side will the studs stay in place or move around? seems like if you remove the nuts, undo the wiring that spot tied to the bumper, you should be able to remove it fairly easily unless I'm missing something critical. thanks

okay. The probably put that original bumper back in their parts inventory. they might have charged you extra if you wanted to keep it. the picture in the link shows the hitch as being slightly recessed on the bumper cover, not sticking out. The flanges where you'd attach a safety chain look slightly different too. I'm sure your hitch sticks out like mine as seen in the pics. thanks

thanks for the parts diagram. the 40338, original bumper, looks just like the trailer hitch bumper with the welded hitch removed. it would be slick if you can easily remove one bumper and replace with the other. that would solve my whining and save my legs. what happens is that I'm constantly working out of the back of the van to get gear in and out and leaning forward. I use the bumper cover to lean against with my shins. all is cool if I'm on either side of the hitch but if I lean against the middle where the hitch is, my shins will get nailed unless I come in very slowly. even still it's rough shaped metal and not like the bumper cover that's smooth and slightly forgiving. same when sitting on the tailgate changing clothes or just hanging out. snags the back of my calf if I'm not careful. Too bad the hitch part isn't bolted on some how so just that part can be removed. appreciate the help.

was yours added at the Ford dealer after you got your van, ordered as a spare part? if that was the case, then yes you should have gotten your original bumper back since it was yours.

sounds good. let us know if you have any questions regarding options. hopefully deliver times are faster for the 2016 production runs. The Ford website doesn't show the 2016 for its online build option, still the 2015 but that should work. As posted in another thread, consider using car buying services like Costco for establishing a baseline for pricing even if you want to negotiate your own deal outside of that. Pricing via Costco was at dealer invoice or $100 below. Also compare pricing for options on sites like Edmunds. good luck!

@GBL - thanks for the diagram and input. you are probably right in your assessment. a missing piece or a poor design that tried to accommodate the requirements for the wagon and van. I seem to recall poster Mustang reporting the same problem. I wonder if other cargo van owners have the same issue and can report back. I'll try to stop by the dealer in the next week or so and discuss this with the service adviser. hopefully I'll get some traction this time. will report back.

ok, took some pictures today and posted them in my gallery - 11 total (hitch 01 to hitch 11). link below to one picture to get you directed there. kind of hard to get the right angle and light but at least you have some pics to start with. I can see why the hitch sticks out as it does. They wanted to provide enough clearance so the spare tire can be dropped without any obstruction. I think they could have shaved the clearance a bit more, it's about 1.5" now and I'm sure you can angle the tire out a bit. Never tried dropping the spare but probably should one of these days to get that practice. Type of thing you say you wish you did when you're changing the tire at night time in a dark place during a storm with coyotes howling in the bushes. Back to the hitch/bumper. looks like the hitch can be angled out and removed without having to remove the bumper cover. The bumper cover is very close the hitch part and you can see the cover was notched out for clearance. The cover can be pulled backwards a few inches in the middle to provide more clearance. It's unbelievable how tight everything is under the van. very little unused open space. Check it out and let me know how it looks. Thanks.

I guess it would be better if I can get Ford to reproduce the same problem on one of their vans and pick that one apart rather than experiment with mine. I'll try that approach first and see where it goes. I had originally reported this problem to the local Ford dealer service adviser on my first oil change back in March but it obviously went no where. Time to try again. Will report back if I learn anything.