Steverino Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Anyone ever apply a spray on bed liner (raptor, rhino, rustoleum) to the interior cargo area? Walls, floor, ceiling? I would rather not cover those surfaces with paneling or boards. I like the utilitarian look of the original surfaces. Purchased a 2013, picking it up in a week or so. First step, strip ceiling, floor, detail interior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sKiZo Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 (edited) I picked up on a six pack of Rustoleum Rugged Peel Coat for the interior walls on mine. Plan is to use that on all the interior ribs, and make cloth inserts for the big panels using some of that foam backed interior cloth used for car roofs. Stuff is textured when dry for more of a naugahyde finish, and the amount of texture will depend on how thick you apply it. Listed as "peelable" but I hear it sets up solid after a month or so. Either way, I don't expect it would last long on a floor, but that's what carpet is for, eh. In any case, I'm thinking it will be a lot easier to cover all the ribs, window frames, and other bumpy bits with that then anything else. I'll keep a spare can for touch ups in case I do manage to nick the finish down the road. Edited January 31, 2021 by sKiZo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steverino Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 3 hours ago, sKiZo said: I picked up on a six pack of Rustoleum Rugged Peel Coat for the interior walls on mine. Plan is to use that on all the interior ribs, and make cloth inserts for the big panels using some of that foam backed interior cloth used for car roofs. Stuff is textured when dry for more of a naugahyde finish, and the amount of texture will depend on how thick you apply it. Listed as "peelable" but I hear it sets up solid after a month or so. Either way, I don't expect it would last long on a floor, but that's what carpet is for, eh. In any case, I'm thinking it will be a lot easier to cover all the ribs, window frames, and other bumpy bits with that then anything else. I'll keep a spare can for touch ups in case I do manage to nick the finish down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steverino Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 Do you need to sand/scruff the surface before applying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sKiZo Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Pre-treat ANY surface to strip wax and dirt before painting. Here's a link to the product page with application instructions ... https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/peel-coat/peel-coat-rugged-coat Here's the fabric I've been looking at. Don't forget the glue! I figure to go with a standard thin fiberboard for the panels, then just velcro them in place, or use peelable caulk. https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Upholstery-Headliner-Fabric-Backing/dp/B07F2ZRC6J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 My truck bed was applied by a Line-X dealer. I didn't do it myself, but watched every step, while the installer explained the process. .I learned a lot. What I really learned, that was before watching them do it, I would have made mistakes. The first thing that the girl did was remove as many pieces as possible. Tailgate came off. Then she took all the bolts off and separated every piece. Then all the bed mounting bolts came off. Followed by a thorough wash. Next, she used a sander, and stripped down the surfaces. A solvent was applied. Then every piece was pressure washed, and dried. Paper and masking tape to protect from overspray. Then light, even coats. A pro shop has advantages. But nothing special. No secrets. They have shop air. Stronger compressors. Better spray application equipment. Heat lamps. A spray booth. Nothing that you can't overcome on your own. On a brand new truck, I would pay a shop. If I just spent $$$XXX on a new vehicle, then a few hundred more isn't going to kill me. If I bought a used truck, I would do it myself, now that I have a better understanding. If I am saving money by buying an older vehicle, then I might as well save more by doing myself. It's not hard. But a shop with the right tools makes the installation faster. You could easily handle the prep process if you work diligently. Without a paint booth, you worry about airborne particulate matter getting on your fresh application. Without heat lamps to expedite the drying and curing, you may need to wait a day or two. Another consideration is fumes in your home. The Rust-Oleum product is made to peel off? Is it like Plasti-Dip? A lot of options out there. Good luck with picking the right one for you. Keep us posted on how the project goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sKiZo Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Was just planning to glue in some strips of stall mat to fill the gaps and flatten the floor, then go with some good commercial grade carpet. I'd expect better sound insulation than any spray on liner. PS - surprised how quiet my 2011 rides even with the barebones package. Ford did a nice job on that. Seals up tight, and none of da BOOM you get with a lot of vans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steverino Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 I teach in a CVTE school. The auto body shop has a paint room and all of industry standard equipment. Didn’t realize rustoleum was tended to peel off either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sKiZo Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Not all rustoleum is, so you were mostly right ... ;-} Another option to texturize the interior walls is gravel guard paint usually used on lower body panels. To quote a tv commercial ... "I put that sh!t on everything!" Also gives a naugahyde like finish, depending on how many coats you use, then just paint over to match your design. Just be warned - the gravel guard paint is permanent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 I have used the Herculiner product and it works well, It can be very messy so pay attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackGrimshaw Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 I would be concerned about unpleasant/toxic odors when the interior heats up in the summer. As for the floor,nothing beats a sheet of plywood for protection. The same goes for the side walls,you only need 12 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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