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Almo

Transmission/clutch related noise?

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Hi guys, 6 months into my transit connect ownership it appears I have an issue. It's a 2007 model T230L with manual transmission.

On the weekend it started making a noticeable rubbing/chuffing noise when I was driving around town that increased in frequency as vehicle speed increased, not revs. Initially I thought some thing was rubbing underneath the van but then I depressed the clutch pedal and it went away instantly - uh oh, problem Houston! 

It's very rhythmic and becomes quite slow as you slow down, almost goes away or gets masked at speed. Most noticeable when sitting at constant revs, lessens under load like acceleration or deceleration. I had my boss who is a diesel mechanic have a drive toady and he was a bit miffed. And just to confuse things it seemed to change pitch or even go away altogether when we added G forces by wrenching on the steering wheel. He wondered if it was related to the clutch slave cylinder which I see is located inside the tranny. Great! I so hope it is not related to this. My boss reckons it sounds more like a rubber part noise than a metallic noise?? It's real noticeable, not a 'is that a noise?' thing :)

 

I'm open to any help I can get and would be grateful. Feel free to ask for any more detail. 

Thanks,

Al

 

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Just heard from previous owner and he thinks it may be the RH front wheel bearing as he has done the left one. It sounds way worse than a  bearing but I hope he is correct. It would explain the change in noise when wheel turned too. Hmmm... will check it out tomorrow when its light again.

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How does it go away with disengaged clutch then?

 

The wheel bearings are a weak point in these vans tho.

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Sounds like a wheel bearing to me.  Disengaging the clutch or turning changes the load on the bearing and therefore the amount of noise.

 

And if one has gone recently, the other one is certainly suspect.  

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Thanks guys, I've just been out and put a trolley jack under the front end. Yep, wheel bearing (phew!) oddly it is the LH one which he says he has replaced. Wondering if he used a quality bearing as he said he got it off ebay.

If anyone has the bearing number for a 2007 model that would be appreciated as I can get one ordered through my ford dealer. Hope they have them , it's an import model here. 

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Note that the bearings are different for ABS-equipped variants. Pretty sure the bearing is available locally as it should be the same as in Focus. Not 100% sure.

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I don't know if the TC bearings require "packing" with grease....  But, when I was first learning about cars, I changed a wheel bearing but didn't know how to properly pack the bearing.  It failed about a month later....  So it may not have been the bearing that failed, just the installation.

 

Here is how...

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Nah David it appears to be a sealed bearing.

OK, so the last owner got his bearing off ebay but I dont have the time to wait as this is my only vehicle and I need it for the wkd to transport my motorcycle to an event. I rang my local Ford dealer but he said they cant get bearings for the Transit connects as they are not sold here.  Annoying as they possibly will have the bearing there but listed as a Mondeo or Focus bearing or some other Ford model that is compatible. Does anyone know if any Ford cars or commercials share the same front wheel bearing?

Anyways I found a general automotive parts dealer who (apparently) has the whole hub assembly with the bearing in it for about 50 quid converted. I will have it tomorrow but I'm a bit wary as to whether it is the correct part as I cant think why they would have this hub sitting on the shelf here. Will remain positive meanwhile! Thanks for your replies guys.

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Bearings are more standard than most folks realize.  There is probably a number stamped on the side of the race or bearing.  You should be able to cross reference that number and find one that is the same size and capacity.  If my memory is correct all bearings are actually metric sizes and have been for a long time.  Cross reference using Dr. Google the bearing expert.

 

Usually I just go to a replacement part but on a couple of rare occasions Ive actually used the bearing numbers.

 

Hope this helps.

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2 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

Bearings are more standard than most folks realize.  There is probably a number stamped on the side of the race or bearing.  You should be able to cross reference that number and find one that is the same size and capacity.  If my memory is correct all bearings are actually metric sizes and have been for a long time.  Cross reference using Dr. Google the bearing expert.

 

Usually I just go to a replacement part but on a couple of rare occasions Ive actually used the bearing numbers.

 

Hope this helps.

Thanks Al, I've been doing some googling tonite and have the SKF and FAG part numbers for the correct wheel bearing kits they sell.

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Saga continues... I had the van at work today and we put it over the pit. It appears the play that i thought was the wheel bearing was actually a worn tie rod end pin. First I checked the wheel bearing hub nut was torqued correctly and latterly the tie rod nut. Both are good.

But the worn tie rod does not explain the noise. So we put it up on axle stands and ran it up in the workshop but it wouldn't do it with out load on. Tried turning the steering, no noise. So it's obviously not something major that is going to let go and strand me in the next 50 miles but still disconcerting.  My boss wondered if it was the half way bearing set up that supports the RH drive shaft on it's way to the hub. The LH side doesn't have this as the diff is offset.  

I wasnt too surprised there was no play in the bearing as it doesn't sound like a worn bearing, its too intermittent, more like something coming around and catching / rubbing at a certain spot. Bit like a stone in stuck in a brake rotor. (but goes away when you push the clutch in.)

Any thoughts gratefully received as usual. Just incase anyone is wondering, I'm not one of those people who hears noises all the time Lol. I'm an engineering machinist so I know a bit about stuff but not everything. :)

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Did you change the Tie rod end? Does the noise change when you go around a  corner ?  What happens when you Rest your foot on the clutch and take up the free play?

Have you checked the Transmission oil? Does it go away in when the Transmission is in direct drive?

Edited by G B L

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19 hours ago, G B L said:

Did you change the Tie rod end? Does the noise change when you go around a  corner ?  What happens when you Rest your foot on the clutch and take up the free play?

Have you checked the Transmission oil? Does it go away in when the Transmission is in direct drive?

 

I'm waiting on tie rod, no parts in New Zealand, it's an import. Yes noise changes when cornering. Havent tried clutch free play but will do that and check tranny oil. Its a five speed manual. Thanks for your suggestions.

The play I was feeling that made me think it was wheel bearing was in the flogged out tie rod end joint. I didnt have my hands directly enough on 12 oclock and 6 oclock when i did the test. My bad.

 

Edited by Almo

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I think the wheel bearing is still  a top contender so if you have to import stuff get a wheel bearing and a water pump just to save time later on.

Keep us posted.

 

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13 hours ago, G B L said:

I think the wheel bearing is still  a top contender so if you have to import stuff get a wheel bearing and a water pump just to save time later on.

Keep us posted.

 

Thanks, I'm just sorting out an order at the mo with an outfit (carpartsinmotion) and I'm getting a wheel bearing with the circlip and nut plus 2x tie rod ends and 2 x tie rods as the threads and nuts on the end of them are rounded off and the tyre guy had to heat the crap out one of them to un-seize it recently. The water pump has been done. and the serpentine belt tensioner and idler roller, so I'm guessing these are all common wear items? Luckily the previous owner was mechanically inclined and recorded everything he did.

Going to remove LH brake caliper this week and tie it out the way with a wooden wedge in there to hold pads apart and then go for a drive. The offending noise sounds so much like something rubbing on disc pads it's annoying me and need to eliminate that. Have also noticed now that putting the clutch in is not always an instant noise stopper. Did 100 miles on the wkd with no dramas and I've got a 200 mile trip this weekend to a racing event. Feeling less concerned than I was. :)

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Today I replaced the LH front wheel bearing, tie rod end, half shaft and seal where it enters the transmission.

The seal was leaking so had to be done and I thought while i have the half shaft out I might replace it (only 55 quid) as it had wear on the inner CV joint and I wondered if perhaps this was part of the clunking on/off the gas.

Unfortunately I'm waiting on some gear box oil from my usual supplier so wont be able to test drive until tomorrow. Fingers crossed for a result.

 

What I did want to mention was that I discovered the driving flange is worn on the inner half of the 39mm diameter bearing surface that the inner races of the bearing locates on. So one half of the old bearing was spinning/fretting and has worn it down to 38.75mm.  I've had to fill the gap with bearing retainer for now as I dont have time to get a new driving flange from the UK before I leave on my trip.  Hmmmm...

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