Audio options ?

[isellford]

I agree. I have the rear window glass but with the Adrian Hybrid partition and a shelving unit on each side, the rear visibility is almost non-existnat. Took a little time to get used to but now I don't even give it another thought.

[bilgewiper]

I did what others suggested here and replaced the factory front speakers with Alpine SPS-500 speakers. I have them currently connected to the weak factory am/fm/cd player which will change in the future. It was a simple install that improved the sound quality at freeway speed when you turn up the volumn to compensate for road noise. Sure, I was hopeing that the added quality would leave me not needing a more powerfull head unit but thats not the case. It still has less quality sound than most other vehicles with a decent factory stereo. Here is a few pics showing the factory speaker, slit cut in insulation to get extra wire length for easy of connection, new Alpine SPS-500 speaker installed and duct tape used to reseal the insullation. Hint: be sure to realign all the white plastic door planel screw blocks before reinstalling door panel.

[zepper]

Tugrik, I am sure you already know of this option for your Alpine but for the others out there thinking of upgrading your Transit's sound system and integrating a back up camera this might be the snazziest way to do it!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-HCE-C107D-REAR-VIEW-CAMERA-for-iXA-W404-iXA-W407_W0QQitemZ360239819226QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dff769da

Pretty cheap too.

[pastiche27]

Tugrik,

Hi I have a xlt with standard stereo and Bluetooth as well. I am interested in doing the same to my stereo. Can you provide the part numbers and company website for the necessary parts to do this? Also how well does the alpine work with an iPhone?any problems?

Thanx

Edited June 4, 2010 by pastiche27

[4DThinker]

For the driver's and passenger's doors: Use a phillips screwdriver and undo the 9 screws on the sides and the bottom of the door. Very carefully pop off the long plastic 'cap' (the textured part) off the front of the pull handle using a putty knife or other thin-thin blade. Be gentle or you'll marr the plastic up a bit. Inside the now-open handle you'll find two Torx T-20 bolts; remove those. Inside the door-latch you'll see a tiny round circle with a screwdriver blade slot. Use a tiny flatblade to pop the circle out; it's a simple push-cap atop one last torx T-20 screw. Then slide the 'cup' off the door-latch to free it up. Now all you have to do is pull the bottom of the door outward and lift the whole thing up. Note: on the driver's side, if you have the power mirror option you'll have to reach up under and un-clip the cable plug connected to the power mirror controls once the door is free.

--T

For the door handle, there is a small hole on the underside edge. You can stick a toothpick or small jewler's screwdriver in there to leverage the cap out a bit.

As for the power mirror control, I for the life of me couldn't get mine unplugged. If someone knows a trick I'd love to hear about it. I simply rotated the panel inward and propped it on the seat still connected so I could work on the speaker. The passenger side is much easier.

I also have a blue XLT Wagon. It is getting a new Pioneer DVD/Nav/Bluetooth unit installed tomorrow. I'm adding a rear view camera, small monitor on the overhead shelf for the back seat to view, and if an old stereo amp I have will work then a couple of 6x9 speakers in the rear door panels.

[paulie159]

I just replaced the Ford 6000 Radio/CD and speakers in my 2010 XLT with the following:

All from Crutchfield. They have been EXCELLENT!

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794

They included the wiring harness and the Ford in-dash receiver kit (includes removal tools) for Transit models 2010 and newer.

JVC Arsenal CS-ARS500 5-1/4" component speaker system

Includes 1" dome tweeter that was easy to install in the door panel just above/forward of 5-1/4" speaker.

I did not use the Arsenal grill cover as I'm not so ego driven to advertise that I have a nicely upgraded

system in my auto! Besides if you cut out the existing moulded grill there is barely enough room to fit the new grill around the hole

due to the door handle position. I suggest getting speaker baffles that fit perfectly behind the 5-1/4" speaker.

Sound Ordnance B-8PT Single 8" Flatsub

Powered sub-woofer that fits perfectly under the driver seat.

The system is not for those who want to be heard a mile away and need to shake the store windows when driving down Main street.

I'm 55 and want quality sound. Clear high's, full mid's and solid punching lows. This system comes through nicely.

If you are inclined to shop at Crutchfield's for this or similar products, let me know, I can get you some $ off by being referred by an existing customer.

Happy Transiting!

Paulie

[brueg]

I found a wire with a with a little 2 connection plug on it behind the right taillight. I have an XLT cargo version and wonder what this is or was used for.

I also would like to thank Tugrik for his instructions. Made the installation go much quicker and easier.

[JGarver]

For people that are looking for back up camera solutions for their TC with an audio upgrade all in one, I will be conducting a test install November 16th on our mail van company's TC. I am a national account manager with Jensen Heavy Duty (Not Jensen automotive stereo). Our products are on every UPS truck, most USPS delivery vehicles, U.S. Xpress semis and many other national fleets around the country, and they are engineered and tested by us to take the the vibration, moisture, and extreme temperature change of a fleet vehicle. I will be targeting the largest TC dealers in the country to establish aftermarket upgrade program with them, so it should be available relatively soon. I will probably post pictures next week, but have not decided because it could take longer than expected to get the program rolled out.

[KimXit]

Hi, Wagon XLT (blue, w/normal stereo + nokia bluetooth) owner here. Have had my van for a few weeks now.

I've removed the stock stereo and replaced it with an Alpine IXA-W404 + Parrot bluetooth system. To do this I had to order about $90 of parts overseas from a company called Nexxus UK. The three parts I ordered were a Transit Connect/C-Max Fascia Plate (plastic socket that converts the TC's dash to a normal double-DIN), Connect2Car cable (converts the TC's funky Volkswagon/german style wiring harness to ISO harnesses and has a steering wheel remote breakout box) and Alpine adapter (connects said steering wheel remote breakout box to the remote-in jack of the Alpine).

Removal of the stereo requires a set of four keys that you can get at most stereo installer shops or Pep Boys. They cost about $7. The stereo comes out easier than any other car stereo I've worked on before. Plug in the four keys, give a light tug, pop off the one big wiring harness and the antenna jack. Done.

From there you just cut the ISO pins off the Connect2Car harness and replace them with the harness to your double-DIN aftermarket stereo. Oh, and depending on your stereo you may need a $10 antenna plug adapter to go from the funky euro-plug to the normal US-style antenna plug. I had to use one, myself.

Here's the only tough part: there's both a plastic and a metal support "T" bar behind the stereo that can make tucking a big wiring harness adapter (especially if it has those little plastic boxes on it like the steering wheel remote breakout or a fuse holder) into the dash a big chore. You can reach it easier from behind by taking out the glove compartment temporarily (which requires no tools to do).

If, like me, you got the Nokia bluetooth kit and are replacing it with an aftermarket one, you can use the factory-installed microphone by tapping into the cables off the wiring harness. The front speakers are 5.25" coaxials with decently deep mounting areas; I was able to replace them with much better sounding Pioneer 3-way 5.25"s. No door modifications were required.

When you're all done it looks pretty factory stock and no factory harnesses/wiring were damaged. Going back to the factory radio would take all of 10 minutes, tops, leaving resale value intact. I'm going on a cross-country trip with my TC for all of October, but once I'm back home in California again I'll finish the stereo mods: a slimline subwoofer mounted on the upper back corner (where there's no window) using a custom box, a set of 6x9s in the back doors (replacing the thin 1/8" MDF there) and a 4+1 channel amp under the front passenger seat. It should sound wonderful without sacrificing any cargo space or looks. I can post photos if folks like. As this is the first state-side TC forum I've found, this is the first time I've found a place to chat about this.

Sorry for the cruddy iPhone pic. When I'm back from vacation I'll take better photos.

[KimXit]

Looks great! How many watts did you get on the Pioneer 5.25" 3-way speakers? Are you happy with them?

Edited December 8, 2010 by KimXit

[jteller]

I just replaced the Ford 6000 Radio/CD and speakers in my 2010 XLT with the following:

All from Crutchfield. They have been EXCELLENT!

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794

They included the wiring harness and the Ford in-dash receiver kit (includes removal tools) for Transit models 2010 and newer.

JVC Arsenal CS-ARS500 5-1/4" component speaker system

Includes 1" dome tweeter that was easy to install in the door panel just above/forward of 5-1/4" speaker.

I did not use the Arsenal grill cover as I'm not so ego driven to advertise that I have a nicely upgraded

system in my auto! Besides if you cut out the existing moulded grill there is barely enough room to fit the new grill around the hole

due to the door handle position. I suggest getting speaker baffles that fit perfectly behind the 5-1/4" speaker.

Sound Ordnance B-8PT Single 8" Flatsub

Powered sub-woofer that fits perfectly under the driver seat.

The system is not for those who want to be heard a mile away and need to shake the store windows when driving down Main street.

I'm 55 and want quality sound. Clear high's, full mid's and solid punching lows. This system comes through nicely.

If you are inclined to shop at Crutchfield's for this or similar products, let me know, I can get you some $ off by being referred by an existing customer.

Happy Transiting!

Paulie

[jteller]

What about the steering wheel controls? Crutchfield says they don't have any for the TC

[jteller]

I just replaced the Ford 6000 Radio/CD and speakers in my 2010 XLT with the following:

All from Crutchfield. They have been EXCELLENT!

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794

They included the wiring harness and the Ford in-dash receiver kit (includes removal tools) for Transit models 2010 and newer.

JVC Arsenal CS-ARS500 5-1/4" component speaker system

Includes 1" dome tweeter that was easy to install in the door panel just above/forward of 5-1/4" speaker.

I did not use the Arsenal grill cover as I'm not so ego driven to advertise that I have a nicely upgraded

system in my auto! Besides if you cut out the existing moulded grill there is barely enough room to fit the new grill around the hole

due to the door handle position. I suggest getting speaker baffles that fit perfectly behind the 5-1/4" speaker.

Sound Ordnance B-8PT Single 8" Flatsub

Powered sub-woofer that fits perfectly under the driver seat.

The system is not for those who want to be heard a mile away and need to shake the store windows when driving down Main street.

I'm 55 and want quality sound. Clear high's, full mid's and solid punching lows. This system comes through nicely.

If you are inclined to shop at Crutchfield's for this or similar products, let me know, I can get you some $ off by being referred by an existing customer.

Happy Transiting!

Paulie

[jteller]

Hi, Wagon XLT (blue, w/normal stereo + nokia bluetooth) owner here. Have had my van for a few weeks now.

I've removed the stock stereo and replaced it with an Alpine IXA-W404 + Parrot bluetooth system. To do this I had to order about $90 of parts overseas from a company called Nexxus UK. The three parts I ordered were a Transit Connect/C-Max Fascia Plate (plastic socket that converts the TC's dash to a normal double-DIN), Connect2Car cable (converts the TC's funky Volkswagon/german style wiring harness to ISO harnesses and has a steering wheel remote breakout box) and Alpine adapter (connects said steering wheel remote breakout box to the remote-in jack of the Alpine).

Removal of the stereo requires a set of four keys that you can get at most stereo installer shops or Pep Boys. They cost about $7. The stereo comes out easier than any other car stereo I've worked on before. Plug in the four keys, give a light tug, pop off the one big wiring harness and the antenna jack. Done.

From there you just cut the ISO pins off the Connect2Car harness and replace them with the harness to your double-DIN aftermarket stereo. Oh, and depending on your stereo you may need a $10 antenna plug adapter to go from the funky euro-plug to the normal US-style antenna plug. I had to use one, myself.

Here's the only tough part: there's both a plastic and a metal support "T" bar behind the stereo that can make tucking a big wiring harness adapter (especially if it has those little plastic boxes on it like the steering wheel remote breakout or a fuse holder) into the dash a big chore. You can reach it easier from behind by taking out the glove compartment temporarily (which requires no tools to do).

If, like me, you got the Nokia bluetooth kit and are replacing it with an aftermarket one, you can use the factory-installed microphone by tapping into the cables off the wiring harness. The front speakers are 5.25" coaxials with decently deep mounting areas; I was able to replace them with much better sounding Pioneer 3-way 5.25"s. No door modifications were required.

When you're all done it looks pretty factory stock and no factory harnesses/wiring were damaged. Going back to the factory radio would take all of 10 minutes, tops, leaving resale value intact. I'm going on a cross-country trip with my TC for all of October, but once I'm back home in California again I'll finish the stereo mods: a slimline subwoofer mounted on the upper back corner (where there's no window) using a custom box, a set of 6x9s in the back doors (replacing the thin 1/8" MDF there) and a 4+1 channel amp under the front passenger seat. It should sound wonderful without sacrificing any cargo space or looks. I can post photos if folks like. As this is the first state-side TC forum I've found, this is the first time I've found a place to chat about this.

Sorry for the cruddy iPhone pic. When I'm back from vacation I'll take better photos.

[jteller]

Do you have any more info on the 3 parts you ordered from Nexxus UK. I can't find on their website any of these products. I am trying to put an aftermarket head unit in my 2010 TC and keep my steering wheel controls.

[davy1shoe]

Just put in the Alpine SPS-500 in my they sound so much better , just need my Dash kit so i can add my IDA - X001.

I have a few questions though .

Anybody added one of those slimline subs ?

Theres a few ive seen but im not sure which to go for or if they are any good.

Infinity Basslink 200-Watt, Dual 10" Powered Subwoofer System http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Basslink-200-Watt-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000063TJY/ref=sr_1_11?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1301868743&sr=1-11

Kenwood KSC-SW10 5-Inch x 7-Inch 150-Watt Max Powered Subwoofer http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KSC-SW10-150-Watt-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B00134X0AO/ref=sr_1_22?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1301868874&sr=1-22

Lanzar VCTBS8 Vector 8-Inch Super-Slim 600-Watt Active High-Power Subwoofer http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-VCTBS8-Super-Slim-High-Power-Subwoofer/dp/B001RJMN5S/ref=sr_1_39?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1301868924&sr=1-39

Boss BASS1200 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer http://www.amazon.com/BASS1200-10-Inch-Profile-Amplified-Subwoofer/dp/B001DXF990/ref=sr_1_48?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1301868967&sr=1-48

One more thing i have the Alpine KCE-400BT bluetooth which i need updated my head unit is an early model so i cant do it myself and local dealer told me to call Alpine and send it back to them.

I bought the Alpine KCE-400BT bluetooth on it release so the firmware is 4 updates behind, has anyone ever sent theres back to be fixed .

Thanks.,

[airbrush]

Anyone have the radio out yet? I'd like to know what / how it comes out, and what other ford radio may fit in its' place. I see it has different connections than the normal Us Ford radios, but figure there is a wiring adapter sold for it somewhere.

I'd like to change it out for a better factory radio with a 6 disc in dash changer, and a bit more "oomph" in the sound department. I don't want a "BOOMmobile", just something that sounds better than what is there now.

I'd also like to hook my XM "Commander" receiver into the radio - whether it be this one or its' replacement.... I'm missin' my XM BAD!

REC

The dealer has 4 keys needed to take it out. They won't sell them to you in San Diego. I had back speakers added with a fader & new front speakers, much better!

[Connect owner UK]

The dealer has 4 keys needed to take it out. They won't sell them to you in San Diego. I had back speakers added with a fader & new front speakers, much better!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-FORD-6006-CDC-CAR-STEREO-RADIO-REMOVAL-TOOLS-KEYS-/250733998327?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a60e930f7

[davy1shoe]

Bought this very good for size http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Basslink-200-Watt-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000063TJY/ref=sr_1_11?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1301868743&sr=1-11

[sunnysmith]

We put the Boss under the passenger seat. It fits *SNUG*. Sounds good.

[davy1shoe]

I just put my sub behind my seats to get the full effect off it.

[REC]

Just put in the Alpine SPS-500 in my they sound so much better , just need my Dash kit so i can add my IDA - X001.

I have a few questions though .

Anybody added one of those slimline subs ?

Theres a few ive seen but im not sure which to go for or if they are any good.

Infinity Basslink 200-Watt, Dual 10" Powered Subwoofer System http://www.amazon.co...1868743&sr=1-11

Kenwood KSC-SW10 5-Inch x 7-Inch 150-Watt Max Powered Subwoofer http://www.amazon.co...1868874&sr=1-22

Lanzar VCTBS8 Vector 8-Inch Super-Slim 600-Watt Active High-Power Subwoofer http://www.amazon.co...1868924&sr=1-39

Boss BASS1200 10-Inch Low Profile Amplified Subwoofer http://www.amazon.co...1868967&sr=1-48

One more thing i have the Alpine KCE-400BT bluetooth which i need updated my head unit is an early model so i cant do it myself and local dealer told me to call Alpine and send it back to them.

I bought the Alpine KCE-400BT bluetooth on it release so the firmware is 4 updates behind, has anyone ever sent theres back to be fixed .

Thanks.,

I am a bit prejudgiced, but I like the Infiniti Basslink. If you look back to the origination of this thread, you'll find some of the stuff I posted in October 2009, once I started trying to figue out how to make the radio audible over the course of normal noises while driving.

I spent a bit of time killing off roadnoise coming from above and below, insulating both the floor and the ceiling, and up front I insulated the front doors after repalcing the speakers. HUGE difference.

Regarding the Basslink, mine is mounted aimed across the floor, on the left side at the rear of the sliding door opening - with the back of it about 6 to 8 inches from the wheelhouse. It kicks things up nicely, even thought my rear side walls are still bare. The nice thing with this is the passive radiator on the oppostie side of the speaker - kinda like two for the money.

I have the 5.25" Alpines in the doors up front, and the 6.5" round ones in the back doors, pushed by a four channel 300W Alpine amp mounted under the seat. I get very nice sound from this setup. I've had it in place now for two years and still look forward to getting in a going for a drive.

I have a photo album up from back then in the gallery, take a look there. My wife made a cover for the sub so that it doesn't really stand out looking through the windows, but it doesn't obstruct the sound either.

REC

Happily Transiting

[Rusty the Scoob]

I haven't finalized on an amp yet, but I'm leaning heavily towards the Alpine PDX-5. That'll drive four speakers and a sub just fine without going too far into 'thump' territory, and it's tiny (and well thermal managed) enough to go under the passenger seat, safe and out of the way.

The door panels couldn't be easier. It's cargo van!

For the driver's and passenger's doors: Use a phillips screwdriver and undo the 9 screws on the sides and the bottom of the door. Very carefully pop off the long plastic 'cap' (the textured part) off the front of the pull handle using a putty knife or other thin-thin blade. Be gentle or you'll marr the plastic up a bit. Inside the now-open handle you'll find two Torx T-20 bolts; remove those. Inside the door-latch you'll see a tiny round circle with a screwdriver blade slot. Use a tiny flatblade to pop the circle out; it's a simple push-cap atop one last torx T-20 screw. Then slide the 'cup' off the door-latch to free it up. Now all you have to do is pull the bottom of the door outward and lift the whole thing up. Note: on the driver's side, if you have the power mirror option you'll have to reach up under and un-clip the cable plug connected to the power mirror controls once the door is free.

For the rear cargo doors: use a putty knife under each of those huge back 'plugs'. They will pop right out; they're just plastic bosses. It will take some pretty serious elbow grease but they'll come out just fine. Then the two far-too-thin-to-be-useful MDF panels will be free and you can get inside the doors. Make new ones with a router or jigsaw out of 1/2" MDF (or thicker), put a little dynamat on the inside against the metal and mount 6x9 speakers. Route the cables through the flexi-hoses that connect the doors to the main body and then along the base rails up to your amp (or radio head unit).

Backup camera: See those two knobs up high on the inside driver's-side rear door? They're wingnuts meant to be undone by hand. Undo those and that odd rectangular 'plug' comes right out of the back. Mount your camera to that plug (or *in* it if you want to be creative) and run the wiring down inside the door. Then remove the lower MDF panel as before and route the wire the same as you did for the rear speaker. The way this little plug is shaped I'm sure someone overseas has a ready-made backup camera that plugs right in there. I can't see any other real use for it!

If you respond to this I may not be able to get back to you for a few days. Tomorrow morning I head out on a 2500mi cross-country trip in the TC. I'm taking Highway 50 (the Lonliest Highway) from California right across the nation to go visit some family. Back in a bit!

--T

For the door handle, there is a small hole on the underside edge. You can stick a toothpick or small jewler's screwdriver in there to leverage the cap out a bit.

As for the power mirror control, I for the life of me couldn't get mine unplugged. If someone knows a trick I'd love to hear about it. I simply rotated the panel inward and propped it on the seat still connected so I could work on the speaker. The passenger side is much easier.

I also have a blue XLT Wagon. It is getting a new Pioneer DVD/Nav/Bluetooth unit installed tomorrow. I'm adding a rear view camera, small monitor on the overhead shelf for the back seat to view, and if an old stereo amp I have will work then a couple of 6x9 speakers in the rear door panels.

Great posts, guys!

Just to add a bit of info: In my 2011 the 9 Phillips head screws that Tugrik describes are T20 screws, which actually cuts down on the number of tools you need by one.

Not all 5.25" speakers are created equal. I tried to put in a set of Polk DXi525 and the speaker baskets are the wrong shape - too wide to fit through the hole in the door. Bummer.

On my passenger door, the speaker wires are blue and white, with blue being negative, white positive. You can tell by putting a few volts to your factory speaker using the wiring plug you almost certainly cut off from the factory harness in the door. I used a 9V battery and battery terminal. When you get the polarity right the speaker cone will jump out, away from the magnet, and when you get it backwards the cone will recede toward the magnet.

The speaker wiring is 16 gauge, pretty beefy, actually, I expected 18g or less.

Crutchfield is currently running a special on the Alpine SPS-510 speakers, buy one get one half off. Expires 2/25/12. Perfect for us wagon guys... I wouldn't have spent $90 on my rear speakers but I'll gladly spend $45. They also say they're sending "1999-up Ford Speaker Adapter Plugs", http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12071058/Ford-Speaker-Harnesses.html?tp=3097. I'll edit this post when they get here and let you all know if they're at all useful.

Edited January 2, 2012 by Rusty the Scoob

[Mikeeshaq]

Remember folks

If you got a TC factory radio that you don't want anymore even if it doesn't work- make me an offer.

I need it to gut the radio out and have a false panel to hide my amateur radio control head

[Nyvideo]

On my passenger door, the speaker wires are blue and white, with blue being negative, white positive. You can tell by putting a few volts to your factory speaker using the wiring plug you almost certainly cut off from the factory harness in the door. I used a 9V battery and battery terminal. When you get the polarity right the speaker cone will jump out, away from the magnet, and when you get it backwards the cone will recede toward the magnet.

How much of a difference will having the polarity reversed make? I know they need to be in phase, but if they are both reversed will that make a noticeable difference?

I guess this week being 20 degrees outside I don't feel like pulling the door panels again!

Mike