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Audio options ?

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Anyone have the radio out yet? I'd like to know what / how it comes out, and what other ford radio may fit in its' place. I see it has different connections than the normal Us Ford radios, but figure there is a wiring adapter sold for it somewhere.

I'd like to change it out for a better factory radio with a 6 disc in dash changer, and a bit more "oomph" in the sound department. I don't want a "BOOMmobile", just something that sounds better than what is there now.

I'd also like to hook my XM "Commander" receiver into the radio - whether it be this one or its' replacement.... I'm missin' my XM BAD!

REC

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I would like to see some aftermarket options as well. The stereo is horrible, it sounds like an old transistor radio speaker set. I am debating getting a amp and replacing the speakers.

I synced the bluetooth to my iphone; the iphone is not supported for the transfer of the address book.

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I have the Work Solutions computer. It pairs with my Blackberry Storm ok and address book transfered without a hitch. Also the radio with the Work Solutions sounds a little better thant the stock radio.

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Anyone have the radio out yet? I'd like to know what / how it comes out, and what other ford radio may fit in its' place. I see it has different connections than the normal Us Ford radios, but figure there is a wiring adapter sold for it somewhere.

Hi, Wagon XLT (blue, w/normal stereo + nokia bluetooth) owner here. Have had my van for a few weeks now.

I've removed the stock stereo and replaced it with an Alpine IXA-W404 + Parrot bluetooth system. To do this I had to order about $90 of parts overseas from a company called Nexxus UK. The three parts I ordered were a Transit Connect/C-Max Fascia Plate (plastic socket that converts the TC's dash to a normal double-DIN), Connect2Car cable (converts the TC's funky Volkswagon/german style wiring harness to ISO harnesses and has a steering wheel remote breakout box) and Alpine adapter (connects said steering wheel remote breakout box to the remote-in jack of the Alpine).

Removal of the stereo requires a set of four keys that you can get at most stereo installer shops or Pep Boys. They cost about $7. The stereo comes out easier than any other car stereo I've worked on before. Plug in the four keys, give a light tug, pop off the one big wiring harness and the antenna jack. Done.

From there you just cut the ISO pins off the Connect2Car harness and replace them with the harness to your double-DIN aftermarket stereo. Oh, and depending on your stereo you may need a $10 antenna plug adapter to go from the funky euro-plug to the normal US-style antenna plug. I had to use one, myself.

Here's the only tough part: there's both a plastic and a metal support "T" bar behind the stereo that can make tucking a big wiring harness adapter (especially if it has those little plastic boxes on it like the steering wheel remote breakout or a fuse holder) into the dash a big chore. You can reach it easier from behind by taking out the glove compartment temporarily (which requires no tools to do).

If, like me, you got the Nokia bluetooth kit and are replacing it with an aftermarket one, you can use the factory-installed microphone by tapping into the cables off the wiring harness. The front speakers are 5.25" coaxials with decently deep mounting areas; I was able to replace them with much better sounding Pioneer 3-way 5.25"s. No door modifications were required.

When you're all done it looks pretty factory stock and no factory harnesses/wiring were damaged. Going back to the factory radio would take all of 10 minutes, tops, leaving resale value intact. I'm going on a cross-country trip with my TC for all of October, but once I'm back home in California again I'll finish the stereo mods: a slimline subwoofer mounted on the upper back corner (where there's no window) using a custom box, a set of 6x9s in the back doors (replacing the thin 1/8" MDF there) and a 4+1 channel amp under the front passenger seat. It should sound wonderful without sacrificing any cargo space or looks. I can post photos if folks like. As this is the first state-side TC forum I've found, this is the first time I've found a place to chat about this. :)

tcradio.jpg

Sorry for the cruddy iPhone pic. When I'm back from vacation I'll take better photos.

_MG_4820.JPG

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Hi, Wagon XLT (blue, w/normal stereo + nokia bluetooth) owner here. Have had my van for a few weeks now.

I've removed the stock stereo and replaced it with an Alpine IXA-W404 + Parrot bluetooth system. To do this I had to order about $90 of parts overseas from a company called Nexxus UK. The three parts I ordered were a Transit Connect/C-Max Fascia Plate (plastic socket that converts the TC's dash to a normal double-DIN), Connect2Car cable (converts the TC's funky Volkswagon/german style wiring harness to ISO harnesses and has a steering wheel remote breakout box) and Alpine adapter (connects said steering wheel remote breakout box to the remote-in jack of the Alpine).

Removal of the stereo requires a set of four keys that you can get at most stereo installer shops or Pep Boys. They cost about $7. The stereo comes out easier than any other car stereo I've worked on before. Plug in the four keys, give a light tug, pop off the one big wiring harness and the antenna jack. Done.

From there you just cut the ISO pins off the Connect2Car harness and replace them with the harness to your double-DIN aftermarket stereo. Oh, and depending on your stereo you may need a $10 antenna plug adapter to go from the funky euro-plug to the normal US-style antenna plug. I had to use one, myself.

Here's the only tough part: there's both a plastic and a metal support "T" bar behind the stereo that can make tucking a big wiring harness adapter (especially if it has those little plastic boxes on it like the steering wheel remote breakout or a fuse holder) into the dash a big chore. You can reach it easier from behind by taking out the glove compartment temporarily (which requires no tools to do).

If, like me, you got the Nokia bluetooth kit and are replacing it with an aftermarket one, you can use the factory-installed microphone by tapping into the cables off the wiring harness. The front speakers are 5.25" coaxials with decently deep mounting areas; I was able to replace them with much better sounding Pioneer 3-way 5.25"s. No door modifications were required.

When you're all done it looks pretty factory stock and no factory harnesses/wiring were damaged. Going back to the factory radio would take all of 10 minutes, tops, leaving resale value intact. I'm going on a cross-country trip with my TC for all of October, but once I'm back home in California again I'll finish the stereo mods: a slimline subwoofer mounted on the upper back corner (where there's no window) using a custom box, a set of 6x9s in the back doors (replacing the thin 1/8" MDF there) and a 4+1 channel amp under the front passenger seat. It should sound wonderful without sacrificing any cargo space or looks. I can post photos if folks like. As this is the first state-side TC forum I've found, this is the first time I've found a place to chat about this. :)

photos snipped

Wow, I like the blue color. I have yet to see a blue one in person.

I ordered the stuff from overseas for adapting my XM and am going to be looking into the speaker/amp stuff after a while. I will most likely stay with the radio for now, but the speakers will be getting the boot. I want to get hold of a body manual before starting to pop parts off (don't want any broken stuff!) to get into the front doors and such. Any tutorial on removal of the door panels??????? :headscratch:

The job you did with the radio looks great. Maybe I should have ordered the plate while I was at it! (Then the radio would have been less a problem down the road.)

What amp did you use, and how is the bass/mid/treble controlled? I don't want a "Thump-mobile'" just some better sound. Is it possible to be too old to thump? If so, I need a membership card....

Thanks for posting,

REC

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Any tutorial on removal of the door panels??????? :headscratch:

What amp did you use, and how is the bass/mid/treble controlled?

I haven't finalized on an amp yet, but I'm leaning heavily towards the Alpine PDX-5. That'll drive four speakers and a sub just fine without going too far into 'thump' territory, and it's tiny (and well thermal managed) enough to go under the passenger seat, safe and out of the way.

The door panels couldn't be easier. It's cargo van! :)

For the driver's and passenger's doors: Use a phillips screwdriver and undo the 9 screws on the sides and the bottom of the door. Very carefully pop off the long plastic 'cap' (the textured part) off the front of the pull handle using a putty knife or other thin-thin blade. Be gentle or you'll marr the plastic up a bit. Inside the now-open handle you'll find two Torx T-20 bolts; remove those. Inside the door-latch you'll see a tiny round circle with a screwdriver blade slot. Use a tiny flatblade to pop the circle out; it's a simple push-cap atop one last torx T-20 screw. Then slide the 'cup' off the door-latch to free it up. Now all you have to do is pull the bottom of the door outward and lift the whole thing up. Note: on the driver's side, if you have the power mirror option you'll have to reach up under and un-clip the cable plug connected to the power mirror controls once the door is free.

For the rear cargo doors: use a putty knife under each of those huge back 'plugs'. They will pop right out; they're just plastic bosses. It will take some pretty serious elbow grease but they'll come out just fine. Then the two far-too-thin-to-be-useful MDF panels will be free and you can get inside the doors. Make new ones with a router or jigsaw out of 1/2" MDF (or thicker), put a little dynamat on the inside against the metal and mount 6x9 speakers. Route the cables through the flexi-hoses that connect the doors to the main body and then along the base rails up to your amp (or radio head unit).

Backup camera: See those two knobs up high on the inside driver's-side rear door? They're wingnuts meant to be undone by hand. Undo those and that odd rectangular 'plug' comes right out of the back. Mount your camera to that plug (or *in* it if you want to be creative) and run the wiring down inside the door. Then remove the lower MDF panel as before and route the wire the same as you did for the rear speaker. The way this little plug is shaped I'm sure someone overseas has a ready-made backup camera that plugs right in there. I can't see any other real use for it!

If you respond to this I may not be able to get back to you for a few days. Tomorrow morning I head out on a 2500mi cross-country trip in the TC. I'm taking Highway 50 (the Lonliest Highway) from California right across the nation to go visit some family. Back in a bit!

--T

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I haven't finalized on an amp yet, but I'm leaning heavily towards the Alpine PDX-5. That'll drive four speakers and a sub just fine without going too far into 'thump' territory, and it's tiny (and well thermal managed) enough to go under the passenger seat, safe and out of the way.

The door panels couldn't be easier. It's cargo van! :)

For the driver's and passenger's doors: Use a phillips screwdriver and undo the 9 screws on the sides and the bottom of the door. Very carefully pop off the long plastic 'cap' (the textured part) off the front of the pull handle using a putty knife or other thin-thin blade. Be gentle or you'll marr the plastic up a bit. Inside the now-open handle you'll find two Torx T-20 bolts; remove those. Inside the door-latch you'll see a tiny round circle with a screwdriver blade slot. Use a tiny flatblade to pop the circle out; it's a simple push-cap atop one last torx T-20 screw. Then slide the 'cup' off the door-latch to free it up. Now all you have to do is pull the bottom of the door outward and lift the whole thing up. Note: on the driver's side, if you have the power mirror option you'll have to reach up under and un-clip the cable plug connected to the power mirror controls once the door is free.

For the rear cargo doors: use a putty knife under each of those huge back 'plugs'. They will pop right out; they're just plastic bosses. It will take some pretty serious elbow grease but they'll come out just fine. Then the two far-too-thin-to-be-useful MDF panels will be free and you can get inside the doors. Make new ones with a router or jigsaw out of 1/2" MDF (or thicker), put a little dynamat on the inside against the metal and mount 6x9 speakers. Route the cables through the flexi-hoses that connect the doors to the main body and then along the base rails up to your amp (or radio head unit).

Backup camera: See those two knobs up high on the inside driver's-side rear door? They're wingnuts meant to be undone by hand. Undo those and that odd rectangular 'plug' comes right out of the back. Mount your camera to that plug (or *in* it if you want to be creative) and run the wiring down inside the door. Then remove the lower MDF panel as before and route the wire the same as you did for the rear speaker. The way this little plug is shaped I'm sure someone overseas has a ready-made backup camera that plugs right in there. I can't see any other real use for it!

If you respond to this I may not be able to get back to you for a few days. Tomorrow morning I head out on a 2500mi cross-country trip in the TC. I'm taking Highway 50 (the Lonliest Highway) from California right across the nation to go visit some family. Back in a bit!

--T

Wow... That would be as good as going to the body manual, if not a bit better. VERY nice of you to take the time to write this out. I had already been into the rear doors (that is TOO easy), but the front doors were the bigger concern. As this is a new vehicle in this country, parts are a touch tough to get so far. (Meaning: I don't want to break anything!)

I am involved in the collision repair industry, and have seen one of these popped in the rear already (kinda made me feel bad for the guy!) and it took a little more time than normal to come up with the rear doors. I've been in this business since 1971, so it isn't entirely foreign to me. I've worked for Ford dealers for 23 of those years until going to my present job almost 14 years ago. I just didn't want to start into something blind. I'm not as well sighted as I used to be... and also have become a bit more cautious than I once was.

Hope your trip went well (as you'll be reading this after your return), and was somewhat un-eventful. I'll be waiting to hear how the trip went, as 2500 miles is a long haul... Gas mileage should be pretty good on this...

Thanks,

REC

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Any one know if the panel that surrounds the radio, (the one with the radio cutout and the 3 control buttons at the top) justs pops off?

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Tugrik,

Thanks for the write-up. I thought I was happy with the stock radio. But, after spending the last 3100 miles with it I got tired of the crappy sound.

I stopped by my local electronics store and spent a while listening to what they had to offer in a 5 1/4" speaker. I picked a set of Alpine SPS 500's. It took me all of 30 min. to swap them out and I can't believe how much better they sound!! .

I didn't get the Nokia blue tooth, so I picked up a Motorola T505. It has a speaker built in and also an FM transmitter so I can link it to my phone and my play mp3's from it. Works great and it's portable, so I can take it from van to car.

Now all I have left to do is get a car kit for my Sirius radio and then I will be all set.

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Any one know if the panel that surrounds the radio, (the one with the radio cutout and the 3 control buttons at the top) justs pops off?

Once you remove the stereo (with the four unlock keys) the panel with the buttons comes off easily. All three have simple cable plugs that pop right off and then you can remove the panel.

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Hope your trip went well (as you'll be reading this after your return), and was somewhat un-eventful. I'll be waiting to hear how the trip went, as 2500 miles is a long haul... Gas mileage should be pretty good on this...

I rode Highway 50 from its start in Sacramento all the way to Wichita, KS... then the 54 to my target location in mid-Missouri. The van handled snow in Colorado (over the Monarch pass) and in Ely, NV wonderfully. It's a great road-trip vehicle.

I averaged 27.1mpg over the whole trip with speed limits between 55 and 65 the whole way (with short spats at 70). I usually drove 2 to 5mph over the limit. The Transit does NOT like going 72+; it's really not geared well for it. Any hills at that speed and you're hurtin'. The rest of the time down in the 60s was no-problem.

My best mpg was coming down from Monarch pass all the way in to Pueblo, CO: 30.2mpg. :) My worst was 23.9 going through the rolling hills of Missouri.

In a week or two I'll head back, most likely taking the 66.

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Once you remove the stereo (with the four unlock keys) the panel with the buttons comes off easily. All three have simple cable plugs that pop right off and then you can remove the panel.

Thanks for that. I have removed the factory stereo and replaced it with a Kenwood DNX5140 with a bluetooth module. Went pretty smooth. I am now waiting for the facia from England to finish the job. I also took your advice and mounted the backup camera to the little plug in the rear door. Once everything is hooked up, there sure isn't alot of room left behind the radio, but it should look like it came from the factory when it is finished. I think I will go the same route as everyone else and replace the speakers also. Thanks for the advise.

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OK.. I have pulled the trigger and the last of the order is in.

I received the plug parts from England today, so the XM hookup is not too far in the future.

However, I have also decided that the tin cans connected by kite string (AKA: door speakers) are outta here.

Here's the plan: An Alpine MRP-F300 amp, using the stock radio CD unit, with the XM adapted to it. Speakers will be a pair of Alpine SPR13C 5.25" in the front doors, and a pair of SPR-17C 6.5" ones in the back doors. I'm thinking this is gonna solve the sound quality issue pretty much... but just to throw a little bottom in, there will be an Infinity Basslink self-powered subwoofer thrown in for good measure.

From what I've been told, and from everything I've read, this won't be something that will annoy the people outside of the van for the most part. I also understand that it should be much better in sound quality than I expect, and that the "thumpmobile" issue isn't gonna be one. (sigh of relief!) Should just be full range sound, nice and clean.

Stay tuned....

REC

Edited by REC

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Yesterday I went by the stereo shop/installer to verify some things on wiring the XM together, and while I was talking with them we decided to go ahead with the XM installation... a thought that made me VERY happy. The discussion was more around the ability to go straight from the XMD1000 into the aux input on the Ford radio. Turns out I only needed to buy a couple of RCA double ended wires, but other than that, the old "XM Commander" is now firmly planted in the pocket above and forward of the A/C vents. Fact is, it looks like it grew there.

Ahhh.... Relief from terrestrial radio! (Read that: commercials!)

And here it is ....

REC

Happily Transiting :shift:

post-112-12559104042_thumb.jpg

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OK.. Today we went from tin cans with kite string to concert hall on wheels.

I'll post some photos of what comes in the doors for those who haven't yet taken them out.. UNreal!

EDIT: The attached photo is of the tin cans found in the doors. They kind of resemble speakers, but smaller. Check the gallery for some other shots.

I'll post some... er, well, maybe that wouldn't work after all. You can't see the speakers, only the main amp and the Basslink powered subwoofer. I guess that only leaves me to tell you that it is a completely different sound than even the Crown Vic had (and it was pretty darn good!). This is close to, if not better than the Bose system I had in one of my past vehicles (A brand X product - please forgive me..). Coming home from the install was a lot of fun, with much more music than I went with.

Two things - 1) I am not a 20 yr old looking to rock the world, 2) my tastes go from one end of the spectrum to the other. I was listening to the greatest hits of 300 yrs ago on my way home, and it was ASTOUNDING! In the driveway before getting out, I tried some other things, and the radio too. All of it is so much different. You don't miss anything that was played.

I stand by my previous statement that Ford should consider a better system from the start. Work truck or not, this thing is great! It takes me back (except for the crappy gas mileage part) to my '72 Econolodge, er line... That thing didn't have any shyness about being seen flirting with a gas pump.

So now I think this is not only a good vehicle, but a great building block to turn in to your own personal transportation vehicle. Maybe it isn't for everyone, but it certainly does the trick for me.

Now to finish the inside of the back!

REC

Happily Transiting shift.gif

post-112-125651619449_thumb.jpg

Edited by REC

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Well that last picture explains a lot!!

I think I'm going for the simple speaker upgrade myself. Fordbuff mentioned Alpine SPS 500's, now I wonder if that same speaker is here in Canada, or if they call it something else here.

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Well that last picture explains a lot!!

I think I'm going for the simple speaker upgrade myself. Fordbuff mentioned Alpine SPS 500's, now I wonder if that same speaker is here in Canada, or if they call it something else here.

I just checked that number at the Alpine website, and that ought to be the same in Canada. Those will work fine. Those factory imitation speakers are unbelievably bad. When I saw them, I couldn't believe it. Man am I glad they're outta there now!

You won't believe how much better the sound will be. Just an FYI - there are some Kenwoods that I almost went with in the same price range, and they should be a first rate upgrade too.

Anxious to hear how you come out!

Roland C

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anyone got a decent picture of the radio removal tool. I could probably just make one with all the stuff I have.

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anyone got a decent picture of the radio removal tool. I could probably just make one with all the stuff I have.

I'll try this...

The 6000 radio ones are the 4 in the image shown.

Roland C.

post-112-125772700727_thumb.jpg

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I got my radio kit from a guy in the UK on Ebay. I put in the radio Monday night. Now for some speakers.

the facia I got didnt fit securely so I used a couple drops of superglue. Went in real easy though. I didnt have any problems with the big plug in the back.

gallery_183_9_292299.jpg

Edited by rooney2oons

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will the driver and passenger door hold anything bigger than 5.25" speakers without a lot of work?

And if it only came with 2 speakers, are there speaker wires run to another spot in the back?

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will the driver and passenger door hold anything bigger than 5.25" speakers without a lot of work?

And if it only came with 2 speakers, are there speaker wires run to another spot in the back?

Probably a too late response, but in a word - no. And there are no speaker wires to the rear either.

There is the possibility of putting a hole in the inner door and trim panel and mounting something in your choice of locations, but....

The right speakers (and an amplifier to help them) along with some insulation on the backside of the trim panels make a world of difference. The factory insulation in the doors is a piece of 1/8" plastic foam, which in a word is... useless. I am also under the impression that those "component" type speakers would be a nice touch, but didn't go that route. I believe I posted the stuff in the photos I put up.

The biggest helps so far are the insulation in the doors and under the rubber mat. After doing that, I also put a 3/4" plywood floor in the rear, covered with indoor/outdoor carpet. The noise level dropped significantly. I need to finish the inner rear side panels, sliding door lower inside panels and the back doors. I did carpet the stock panels on the back doors after the speaker holes were cut, but it still needs a bit more.

At a point in the not too distant future, I would like to drop the headliner and insulate the underside of the roof. In a driving rain, it is near impossible to hear yourself think. Once the interior noise is reduced, speakers that fit in the holes that are present should not be a problem.

Of course.... a 300 watt four channel amp, 4 speakers and a 200 watt powered subwoofer help quite nicely until such time as the rest of the stuff gets done. As each of the insulating moves have been made, the stereo has come to sound even better. It t should really come to life with the rear side panels (wheelhouse) areas covered and soundproofed a bit!

In regard to cutting other holes, my initial thought was to use the small rectangular component setups that are available from a couple of different makers, but after seeing the inside of the door, that thought went by the wayside. I wanted to end up with something that didn't really look like "steal me please" through the windows. It seems to have worked out fairly well.

I drove an 11 hour round trip the end of last week and 80% of it was in some really nasty weather (and wind!), and didn't have too hard a time hearing the radio.

Good luck in your choice..

REC

Happliy Transiting shift.gif

Edited by REC

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Backup camera: See those two knobs up high on the inside driver's-side rear door? They're wingnuts meant to be undone by hand. Undo those and that odd rectangular 'plug' comes right out of the back. Mount your camera to that plug (or *in* it if you want to be creative) and run the wiring down inside the door. Then remove the lower MDF panel as before and route the wire the same as you did for the rear speaker. The way this little plug is shaped I'm sure someone overseas has a ready-made backup camera that plugs right in there. I can't see any other real use for it!

The plate you describe is actually where the EU supplementary brake light is positioned. EU Transit Connect's don't have the centerline brake light atop the vehicle, so there aren't likely to be any EU aftermarket cameras made specifically for that fitment.

If you've added a backup camera, I'd appreciate any information about your configuration. Thanks!

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I'm rather fortunate. I'm having my vehicle retrofitted in the next week or so, including a headliner and cargo mat swap, so I'm going to have a ready-made opportunity to lay-in wiring and insulation for just about conceivable future use. I couldn't ask for a more convenient opportunity.

One thing I've noticed is that the 110A Cargo seems to be CONSIDERABLY inherently quieter than the 510A Wagon. Perhaps it's just the additional presence of the rubberized mat atop the cargo floor rather than the molded vinyl piece; but the difference is indisputable. I'm really looking forward to enhancing the rest of the suppression with added insulation under the cargo mat and above the headliner. I'll be doing the rear, sliding, and front doors separately as time allows, probably when I swap-out the front door speakers.

It only recently struck me that my pending upfit to include the Masterack steel bulkhead pretty-much excludes me from adding rear speakers (unless I want them to be relatively useless). That means any speaker-based audio improvements will be limited to whatever I an eke out of the front door speakers; and from what others have mentioned, the Alpines others have used are likely to be my first choice.

I also have to admit that driving the windowless cargo van is a MUCH different experience than I had expected. Even without a partition (for the moment), the lack of any sort of rear view mirror, even to be able to see the load I'm carrying, is a bit disconcerting. I know it's more perception than reality, but it's still a very different experience from what I had expected. Oh, how I would love Ford to have come-up with a flexible configuration option that would allow window glass and plugs to be freely interchangeable. Damn it, it shouldn't be that hard. Maybe it's something I should have tried to do myself before leaping wholesale into the trade I made.

Any advise would be well appreciated.

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I also have to admit that driving the windowless cargo van is a MUCH different experience than I had expected. Even without a partition (for the moment), the lack of any sort of rear view mirror, even to be able to see the load I'm carrying, is a bit disconcerting. I know it's more perception than reality, but it's still a very different experience from what I had expected. Oh, how I would love Ford to have come-up with a flexible configuration option that would allow window glass and plugs to be freely interchangeable. Damn it, it shouldn't be that hard. Maybe it's something I should have tried to do myself before leaping wholesale into the trade I made.

Any advise would be well appreciated.

You'll get used to the lack of windows. I had mine for the first week, then installed the bulkhead and lost that rear visibility. Now I don't feel it much and don't even check the rear view mirror. It just takes time.

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