Fifty150

Even if you can't locate those switches or figure out how to suit them to your needs, it is still a very good place for extra switches. All sorts of toggle type switches could be installed in that location.

Every mechanic will say it's not their fault. For the obvious reasons. Now, the question is, do you still want them to work on your car? In California, auto repairs are overseen by the Bureau of Automotive Repair. is there a government agency in your area? Local laws will vary. If I were you, I would immediately find another mechanic. I would also find a mechanic who can be qualified as an expert witness, and is willing to testify in court. Then hire a lawyer. It' sounds like it''s lawsuit time.

WeatherTech Cargo Liner Video Fits your Change2016 Ford Transit Connect Product Information Our Price: $107.95 - $147.95 Made in the USA Shipping: FREE SHIPPING Rating: 4.6 (156 reviews) Product Options Select Placement Select Submodel Select Color ADD TO CART

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This one?

It looks like this camera would work fairly well alongside the license lamp of the liftgate on the wagon model. Just mount it to the right of the lamp as the OEM camera is situated. Vehemo CBC01 Car Rear View Camera High Definition Universal Auto Parking Reverse Vehicle Backup Camera with 480TV lines 170 Degree Viewing Angle Waterproof (Black) by Vehemo 3.9 out of 5 stars 21 customer reviews | 6 answered questions Price: $15.99 Free Shipping for Prime Members Your cost could be $10.99: Qualified customers get $5 in Gift Card funds on first $100 reload of their Amazon Gift Card Balance. Learn more In Stock. Sold by Gating and Fulfilled by Amazon.

What is the "OEM-look" that you're looking for? I noticed that the OEM camera, on both the van & wagon, are not mounted at the center of the vehicle. I guess it wouldn't matter much.

Has anyone tried exterior film tint?

That sounds like the punchline to a naughty joke.

JewDee, Lots of youtube videos of Transit Connect conversions. Lots of ideas out there. The hardest part is deciding on what you want, then planing it all out.

I know just enough about window tint, after having watched the pros do it, to know that I would mess it up myself. They make it look easy. Ever eat in a place with an exhibition kitchen? I like to sit right at the counter, talk to the cooks, and get to know them. They make those gourmet meals look easy. Then I try to do it, and mess it up. Some things I would tackle without hesitation. But it's always the little projects that turn out to be the hardest. Plumbing, electrical, carpentry, roofing; not a problem......but a simple paint job or gardening project could leave you with a messed up yard & paint all over your carpets. Cold air intake, bolt on exhaust, j-mod on the transmission, lift kits.....piece of cake. Tear out the OEM fan & install electric fans. No problem. Change underdrive pulley on the engine. No problem. Upgrade the cooling system. You bet. Install off-road lights. No problem. Wire in emergency flashers. No problem. Install communications via Motorola base unit. No problem. Install a battery isolator, run a line to the trunk, mount a second battery, then hook up an air compressor and portable welder. Sure, piece of cake. Fabricate a bench seating system to carry 9 people in the back of a pickup truck. Yeah. But I'm not tinting windows. That , is where I draw the line.

I'm wondering if the bearings, transmission, and other issues will crop up on the current generation.

2 factors of visibility. People seeing you. You seeing the road. Ideally, you want both. Same amount of labor involved. Cost variant will be parts. For your 32" light bar, have you considered mounting it above the windshield?

I agree. It's usually not the oil that fails you. Water pumps, timing belts, thermostats, pulleys, belts, hoses......all lead you sitting on the side of the road. Not to mention transmissions going out, brake system failures, steering pumps, suspension parts, rack & pinion......... Just about the only thing that I've never broken was the driveshaft. But those break also. It's just that I've never broken one.

"Okay Google" doesn't work better.

On almost vehicle I've ever driven, the OEM fog lights don't do anything. Even if in theory, they are correctly mounted in the lower corners of the front of the vehicle. I have had good results with certain aftermarket installations using different housing and lamp combinations. Otherwise, it's like all those lighting mods that kids do on Fast n Furious Hondas. When you look at them, they're bright and look good. But from behind the wheel, your visibility is not enhanced. Rear fog lights are designed for just that purpose. If for whatever reason, the person behind you can't see your car or all the other lights on your car, then the rear fog light is meant to announce your presence on the road ahead of them. The front fog lights are meant to project downward and in a flood pattern. The theory is that the light will hit the ground directly in front of, and around the front of your vehicle, so that you can see the road, lane dividers, and reflectors as your headlights are "bouncing" off the blanket of fog. Fog lights do not throw very far. That's not the purpose. They are suppose to help you see the road, so that you can stay on the road. And, you're already suppose to be driving a lot slower, so added distance is not an issue. Fog rises off the ground, so any other lighting will simply bounce back at you. In CA, we have something called a "Tule Fog". This is where my fog lights have either worked, or not worked. My best results were with Hella brand lights, running 100W lamps. Roll over image to zoom in Optilux 1450 12-Volt/55-Watt Rectangular Clear Halogen Fog Lamp Kit by HELLA 3.9 out of 5 stars Roll over image to zoom in HELLA HLA-H83135121: H3 12V 100W Yellow Star Off Road Use by HELLA 2.8 out of 5 stars 27 customer reviews | 4 answered questions

"What kind of oil are you using?' I remember hearing that as a kid, when my dad and uncles worked on their cars on the weekends. As a teenager, I got all kinds of conflicting information, from every source. Don't use synthetics, they will make your engine leak. Only use synthetic, it's better and your engine won't leak. Never mix synthetics with conventional oil, your car wasn't made to do that. Synthetics are just a waste of money. Don't waste your money on conventional oil, because you'll pay for it when your engine fails. Conventional oil leaves sludge in your engine. Conventional oil is better for the gaskets and seals. Synthetic oil is better for the gaskets and seals. Change every 3000. Change every 5000. Change every 7500. Her name was Lola, she was a showgirlWith yellow feathers in her hair and a dress cut down to thereShe would merengue and do the cha-chaAnd while she tried to be a starTony always tended barAcross the crowded floor, they worked from eight til fourThey were young and they had each otherWho could ask for more? 20 years ago, before the Age of Enlightenment, I believed in a lot of what I heard, because there really wasn't a way to fact check what you were hearing. You couldn't simply "google" your way into any information (reliable or otherwise). In today's computer age, with search engines, we can now come up with even more conflicting and unreliable information to muddle the facts. Her name is Lola, she was a showgirlBut that was thirty years ago, when they used to have a showNow it's a disco, but not for LolaStill in dress she used to wearFaded feathers in her hairShe sits there so refined, and drinks herself half-blindShe lost her youth and she lost her TonyNow she's lost her mind 20 years ago, cars were different. Technology was different. Modern vehicles are built to a different standard. Engines have a different tolerance. 20 years ago, the family car was a Taurus. Would you drive a Taurus today? Back in those days, I put 10W40 into just about everything, Clinton was re-elected, I wore tighter pants, was 20 lbs lighter, and had more hair on my head. OBD II wasn't mandatory in all cars in The United States until 20 years ago. Let's assume that the control group factor is the car and the factory fill of oil. Every one of us drives our cars just a little bit differently. We are the variable. Some guys can go an entire year without hitting 10,000 miles. Other guys can do that in a few months. My company car sees about 200 miles a day. The only real way to know what is happening under your hood, is to submit your oil for used oil analysis. Extreme, right? But that takes the guessing right out of it. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do-i-need-a-tbn.php What is a TBN, and who uses it? In short, a TBN (total base number) measures the amount of active additive left in a sample of oil. The TBN is useful for people who want to extend their oil usage far beyond the normal range. The TBN of a used oil can aid the user in determining how much reserve additive the oil has left to neutralize acids. The lower the TBN reading, the less active additive the oil has left. Note: You do not need to send in a virgin sample for us to run a TBN on your oil. Some people like to send a virgin sample anyway, to find out exactly where the TBN of a specific oil starts out. The cost of a virgin oil sample plus TBN is the same as a regular oil sample plus TBN. An oil's function is to lubricate, clean, and cool the engine. Additives are added to the oil to enhance those functions. The TBN will start out reading in the 6.0 to 14.0 range (depending on whether the oil is for gas or diesel engines). When you first start using the oil the TBN tends to drop sharply. Then it levels out and drops more slowly after that. A low TBN test result, meaning very little additive is left, is down around 1.0 or lower. Scientifically speaking, the TBN is one of two "neutralization number" tests run on oils. The TAN (total acid number), which is used for hydraulic oils, is the other. The TBN measures how much base (as in, a base vs. an acid) additive is in the oil to offset the deleterious effects of acids coming into the oil from combustion and other sources. However, the TBN is not the only factor to consider when determining how long an oil can be used. If wear accumulations and insolubles in the oil build up and become abrasive, we would recommend changing out the oil, no matter how high the TBN reading. Case Scenarios Case #1 Joe Owner has a new engine and wants to determine how long he can keep a fill of oil in place. He sends in a sample of his virgin oil (with no miles on it) and a sample of his used oil (with 3,000 miles on it) for an analysis and a TBN test. The virgin oil has a TBN reading of 12.0. His used oil has a TBN reading of 9.5, and his wear levels are fine. Joe decides to leave his current fill of oil in place, and resamples in another 3,000 miles. This time, the TBN reads 6.0, still an average amount, but his wear accumulations and insolubles have built up to a level that causes the oil to become abrasive. We recommend that Joe change out this oil. Case #2 Jill Owner has a new engine and wants to determine how long she can keep a fill of oil in place. She sends in a sample of her virgin oil (with no miles on it) and a sample of her used oil (with 3,000 miles on it) for analysis and a TBN test. The virgin oil has a TBN reading of 7.0. Her used oil has a TBN of reading of 5.0, and her wear levels are fine. Jill decides to leave this fill of oil in place, and she resamples in another 3,000 miles. This time, the TBN reads 4.5, and her wear levels are still low. Jill decides to leave her oil in place a bit longer, and she resamples in another 1,500 miles. This time, the TBN reads 2.5, and although wear accumulations are still normal, we recommend she change out the oil. Do you need the TBN test in your maintenance routine? Only you can answer that question. We offer a TBN test on any gasoline or diesel oil sample for an additional $10.

Wow! Talk about inflation!

A quick look at Bob Is The Oil Guy shows that it is a popular topic of discussion. About 50,700 results (0.83 seconds) Search Results Euro spec oils vs North American | European and Import Motor Oils ... www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number... Jan 6, 2012 - 15 posts I read somewhere on the internet that Euro spec oils were designed for engine performance, protection, and longevity where as American spec ... European Oils vs American/Canadian Oils | European and Import ... www.bobistheoilguy.com › ... › European and Import Motor Oils Mar 24, 2008 - 15 posts I know I've mentioned this before about European Oils being better than ... If you ran a synthetic oil in a V6 engine that had an 8 quart oil pan, ... European vs American Formulas | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO ... www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1504230 Jun 19, 2009 - 15 posts Why do vehicles like Porsche, Ferrari and BMW M's specify heavier oils than this Corvette? Is it just the European mindset vs the American ... Euro spec oils vs North American | European and Import Motor Oils ... www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number... Feb 7, 2012 - 7 posts Does it come in a 55-gal drum or something more convenient that one can carry home? I'm sorry but I just don't trust JL's oil changing skills, ... Euro spec oils vs North American | European and Import Motor Oils ... www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number... Feb 7, 2012 - 15 posts Yup. And Helix Ultra 5w-40 meets MB 229.5 spec as well, which is a more stringent spec than VW 502.00, so how can one say that Ferrari spec ... Difference Between Euro and non-Euro Oils? | Passenger Car Motor ... www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number... Oct 24, 2011 - 15 posts It's almost impossible to find any place in North America that a driver can do 130-150+ MPH ... For this reason, I use API spec oils and change them at 5-6K. ... In Europe, motor oil is very expensive, so long drains are more of a ... Euro synthetic oil vs. USA made syn? | Passenger Car Motor Oil ... www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number... Apr 22, 2010 - 10 posts That is not the case anymore. Take M1 for example... it is partly composed of Group III, yet it is labeled as fully synthetic everywhere in the world ... Mobil 1 0w40...same formula worldwide? | European and Import Motor ... www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number... Jul 26, 2009 - 13 posts It had been mentioned in this forum that M1's 0w40 was different in Europe to the 0w40 in the US. I was bored and decided to take a look at the ... Euro spec oils vs North American | European and Import Motor Oils ... www.bobistheoilguy.com › ... › European and Import Motor Oils Feb 7, 2012 - 15 posts They are not closely related. One is a mid-SAPS ACEA A3/B3, VW 502.00, BMW LL01, etc. oil, while the other is a low-SAPS that meets a ... North American vs. European OCI | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO ... www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number... Jan 16, 2006 - 15 posts I'm confused. I have read that for the same car/engine , recommended OCI's are longer in Europe(or elsewhere) than North America. Is this true ...

You found a kit with the correct harness? Who makes it? What is the part no.?

Interesting. Transit Connects at the 200K mark, without oil issues. What issues have you had at that many miles? Anything for us to look out for?