Osco

It Is A Station Wagon, remember those ?

Let no one service it but Ford, follow the owners manual for service and fagetaboutit.

Yes I told them the story. The carfax report would show it anyway. It did not matter as It was auction bound. King Ford as most dealers would not keep any vehicle with 130k miles.

At 129,700 miles I was in for a simple repair last week. The shifter cable clip broke and it was stuck in park but rolled loose in neutral. $165 and fixed. This has been one of the most trouble free vehicles of all. But,,, When I went to pick up the Transit, I call it my Droid. They parked in right behind a black Range rover, I took a second look, It was a 2021 Bronco Sport. I took a test drive, They said, "This is not the droid they were looking for" ? Gave me $7,000 for the Transit Connect, The Bronco Sport feels, drives and looks like a $50,000 Sport-ute End of line.

Ford called me, It was a broken shifter cable bushing set. Van Is ready to pick up. Total repair cost was $164.00 I am happy. 128,000 miles and still on the original brake pads, go figure. 1st 20k miles unknown, next 80k miles 75% Interstate 25% city. last 28,000 in the mountains of NC Brake Inspection at 116k showed just under 50% pads remaining,, wowza ! I will be buying ford brake pads ONLY... This has been the most trouble free vehicle I have ever owned.

Yesterday My shifter got stuck in the park position, but the transmission stayed in neutral with the dashboard screen in park No noises, nothing. tried everything, not able to change anything. Towed to Ford dealer..

126,000 miles,, not a single problem. I no longer drive it for a living, I retired a bit early and moved to the mountains. The Van is always in select shift, I did have Ford Service the tranny at 115k miles, It shifts no different, seems fine. I put a new set of plugs in also at 115k, made no performance difference at all. The Old plugs I took out looked fine, like new. I prolly wasted some money there,, not even any black on the plug Insulators, they looked exactly like the new ones with the correct deposit color showing me fuel management is spot on. I cleaned my K&N Air filter, last cleaning was at 80K miles, made no difference In performance. All this tells me my fuel/air controls are working fine Now In the Appalachian mountains almost never on level roads using select shift and shifting all the time all over the gears my MPG average over 1 year and 6500 miles is 23.6... My driving is smooth, never any traffic to sit in, rarely above 65 mph. I think my mpg's are acceptable. I will keep this van for years to come, until it becomes a money pit. I Picked up a 2004 AWD Escape for $1.000 for winter roads. Every thing works, cold ac I got it at 195,000 miles and now at 202k, had It two years now. I Installed a new battery and wipers ford put in two motor mounts. Now that's a cheap to keep old beater ?

2015 XLT wagon with the third row of seats out, I'm running light loads, In the mountains, many many curves and some highways. Lots of curves, oh I said that already, did I mention I don't drive like Grandma ? My Kumho's, a 40,000 miles tire got down to 3/32 and 4/32 in 17,600 miles. They were a great feeling, handling tire on wet and dry roads. $420 out the door at Walmart. I went back to walmart because they were not so good anymore in the wet and they prorated them and sold me Goodyear viva 3's. These tires were $73 each plus all the other fee's and mounting cost. I added the $10 per tire road hazard thing. Walked out the door on fresh rubbers for Just shy of $250, these viva 3's are 60,000 mile tires, the guy said I'd get about 30 to 35k and they would prorate them out on the next set of what ever tire I choose.. They feel and handle great wet or dry just like the Kumho's did when new, Thanks Walmart ? I did the math, no more expensive tires for me. I'll stick to new fresh cheap rubber every other year I think....

I don't think a few wiser people choosing not to buy Mobil products would have any effect on the companies bottom line. I choose it because of the results I have gotten, and the price,, I think it was $28 for 5 qts at wally world,, BUT I will admit I prolly would get the same results from any top shelf oil you guys could name. On Mobile 1: 394,000 trouble free miles out of a AMC straight six designed in 1957, converted to EFI and In my 1996 jeep cherokee before I wore out a rear main. 410,000 out of a Geo Metro with the Toyota twin cam. 380,000 out of a tacoma with the 2.4 L four banger,, would have got more but crashed it. and my best: 528,000 out of the Toyota 2.7 Liter 4 banger in my 2006 Tacoma, I pulled a 2,000 enclosed trailer and 800 or so in the bed. It had low compression and the mpg's were falling, imagine that....528k,,,,never even replaced the timing chain. not a single engine problem. My research told me my oil and filter choice was a major factor In ALL these engines.. "Mobile is a city in Alabama" PMSL good catch ?

When I was hauling 800 ish pounds on the back, or even a thousand I'd use manual shift, If I remember right 4th gear @ 65-70 mph got me up in the power curve sweet spot. My 2.5 twin cam always has loved to rev. I'm comfortable pulling 4,500- 5,000 rpms,, some people are not I would think...

Turkey, Espania, France,, Not the USA don't remember where I read It was France, I prolly got it off the Internet ?

Remember, this van was designed, tested, vetted and built In France, 4 full size french people not a problem, WE Americans as a whole love to eat, In excess LOL I have no problem tucking in with the big trucks while climbing the Cumberland gap ?

When I quit my freeway driving Job at 95,000 miles i had my brakes Inspected, pads were at 60% front and 50% rear. My 90k to my current 115k miles was not big city driving, more rural country style,, retired and all that. They still look good, my est is 40% rear and 45% front left.. Just waiting for the squeal tabs to hit.

I got the creeper van white because I was In The Florida heat and on the road most days, Tell your Daughter that the 'Creeper" comment Is stuck In my head like a bad tune, :P Don't worry about the tranny or anything actually, It's a Ford, change the Oil with the good stuff and drive it like a sports car :D 115,000 on my 16 2.5L, paid for and I will drive it into the ground...

I resemble that remark, Mobile 1 extended and the best filter I can find every 10,000 miles, Took a 2007 2.7 Ltr Toyota Tacoma to 528,000 miles, often pulled a 2,000 lb trailer. wore it out, low compression.. Took a 1996 Jeep Cherokee with the designed in 1957 amc 4.0 L upgraded to EFI to 394,000. rear main let go. Mobile 1 has the right stuff, correct pfe and additive package I would think.

All the Initial cost, all that work, no thanks. I'm retired now and happy with my 24 mpg average in these hills and curves...

I;d not call It bright but it was red and clean,, Only reason I can think of was the fact that this van lived on the Interstate. Say 80% super slab, 10% rural back roads and 10% city.. Did those of you who got black , burnt brown fluid out get a better shifting van after the flush ? As I said mine shifted the same ...

Hit by Lightening while doing 70mph at about 75,000 miles, blew up everything, road hazard covered the $6500 repair. Now at 115,000 One repair was a A/C temp sensor, repaired by Ford, couple hundred bucks, I forget exactly. Second was a door sensor last spring, this one was surely a slow to fail part from the lightening strike Nothing else. And the best part, It's paid for ?

Changed my plugs yesterday @115K Replaced with stock Iridiums (MotorCraft SP-530) The old plugs showed some heat scaring on the Insulators, The two outside plugs were twice as bad as the two Inside, prolly runs a degree or two cooler out there.. I should have took a picture but they were pretty typical looking. I think I could feel a bit more power, but doubt that,, Its one of those things we want to feel..... It did start noticeably faster, but was IMHO plenty fast starting with the old plugs, I take that as a win. There was a noticeable gain In engine smoothness at idle, not that It was very rough before, just smoother now, another win. I still believe My K&N air filter was an Improvement over a new clean paper filter, It seemed to add a tiny bit of snap to response on take off's and Idled with greater predictability, settled down much quicker.. Warning ! If you get one and clean it Incorrectly or over Oil it you will need a throttle body cleaning or two, read and RE-read the cleaning kit Instructions. Over cleaning will destroy the filter, I put mine it at 25,000 miles and just cleaned it for the second time.

Fifty150, Mines the Long wheel base wagon, Max load rating is reduced to 1250 lbs due to the extra seats and all those windows, they require more metal support so less cargo weight. The third row I took out I bet weighs 100 pounds. To others running the door sticker pressures, 41, 44 I've tried with more than one brand of tire. Door pressures: Burned the rear center treads down really fast. Handled ok but the back end was skittish when pushed in a corner ( I know Its a Mini van but It handles, I love chasing Mini Coopers down mountain switch backs) Made more noise, Slipped more on wet take offs, Was a much harsher ride,

115,000, first transmission flush, old fluid came out looking just like the new fluid.. Shifted exactly the same after. Flushed the cooling system, Still running original factory brake pads front and rear... Yep you read that right.

If I run more than 41 psi in my rears, (Door Say's 44) in my 2015 LB XLT wagon I'll burn out the center treads In No time. I run light with the third row seats out, 40 psi in the front and 41 rear year around with regular 5,000 mile rotations to get even tread wear...

Even with regular pressure checking things happen. 2 times so far has my tire pressure warning system talked to me, each time was on the Interstate at 75 to 80 mph. Was a puncture both times and I was able to slow down and exit the Interstate safely without tire damage. because I was warned BEFORE the tire deflated. If your lucky you go flat, but If not so lucky the tire blows as the sidewalls heat up with low pressure. Fender damage is expensive as Is wheel damage. I think the TP warning system Is a very smart Idea.

2015 LWB XLT 2.5 engine 1st gens had a 2.0 Liter engine I think..