Osco

Got It all done and hauled 350 pounds of 6x8 board on board wood fence on my 200 pound folding trailer,,(estimated weight of trailer).. Works great, and with about 550 pounds being pulled I felt nothing at all. No spare tire conflict but as another member noted I will loose some shin skin If I leave It as Is, I think a receiver run/stop light will solve this. They are cheap,,about $20 , had one before, an extra bright light Is a good thing :P

59500 miles and no more problems. I should be driving less miles per year, thinking 50 -55k a year not 70 plus. Doing Oil changes at 10 k Intervals,,40k, 50k, 60k eyc,, because It's simple. Using Mobil 1 extended life, It say's 15k interval ok, very good additive package but still 10k intervals for me, In the Florida heat and humidity. Napa Gold filter and no other. Added a K&N Air filter about 5k miles ago and It gave me a noticeably smoother Idle and a very small felt Increase Is 'Snap' when I take off with a lead foot, The old filter was not clogged but due for a change out. MPG's did not change nor did felt power, I say to those who think they got more power and or mpg's,,It's because you drove differently or conditions changed.. The Air meter regulates things as does Injector flow. These small engines do not need the added air flow as would a Hemi or some other performance engine, I used one in my 383 engine I put In a Cuda' It made a real difference in that set up. The true advantage of the K&N Is service life, cost savings (significant), and the fact that when this filter gets very dirty and that takes a very long time (50-60,000 miles), It is still passing more air with less vacume than a regular OEM filter that's clean. The only disadvantage is cleaning and oiling the filter as the procedure must be followed exactly to the letter and IF you over oil the filter or not dry in properly you will then need a throttle body service,,about $100 I think. So Is the K&N worth it ? IMHO Absolutely :P

Funny the way things work out sometimes ~ I kept playing with the tire pressure for quite a while,,20k miles later This is where I am at.... My job has changed and now I carry much less weight,, Kept my box and tie downs,, say 50 pounds, the two third row seats are still in the house,,they together had to be 120 pounds. So after adding my equipment weight and tools I'd say my cargo loads now are always about 350 pounds all compactly loaded just forward of the rear axle. My Conti's are the 51 max psi tires and on my door jam It says 41 psi front and 44 psi rear.. For the best handling and best dry or wet weather tracking and traction, the least road noise and even tread depth wear using a tread depth gauge checking all water channels on all four tires My Gen 2 XLT LWB does best at,,,,,,wait for it,,,,,, ,, 41 psi front and 44 psi rear,, Imagine that !

Man what a fight to post a few pictures GRrrRRrr After uploading I cannot find a post button one last try : OK now they are added,,, NOW WHERE Is the post button ??????? I got add reply and preview post or cancel,,,going with preview,,,,, ok ADD REPLY I got it ~~~~

Mine has a 2" box receiver

As for wiring,, seems like fun ~

I clicked the above link (Installation Inst) and It locked my pc up,, had to task out,,bad link... I need diagrams for the rear bumper that bolts into the box frame with four bolts on each end behind the valence.. Got to remove that and replace with my ford tow bumper.

My Tires were very, rumbly/noisy until I got used to the fact that these Hi load tires actually need 41 psi up front and for me 46 psi out back. Running the Conti's and they are smooth and quiet now. No shudder,, smooth as a Cadillac and handles like a sports car :P I got mine used with 20k miles on the clock. When I buy used I always Dismount tires and have a look Inside,,ALWAYS ! Rear tires looked like new, (Tread was slightly deeper mid tire) due most likely to only 38 psi.. still on at 55k and still ""look"" new~ Rear ones make a little noise now, At 55k tread depth is at 7/32"s I may replace at 70k miles. Found about 2 cups of tire rubber inside a front one,,this means some fool ran flat for a few miles or at least ran low psi.. Off comes the front tires,,one to keep as a backup spare, the powder tire to the dump. Two New Conti's (With a very different tread pattern) went on at 20k,, Note: I am not rotating so now at 55k the rear tires are even at 6/32" and the fronts are at 6/32" with 35k BUT They like many tires wore down from 10/32"s to about 7/32"s real fast and seemed to stop. I do not rotate because I am timing tire wear out so I can replace all four at about 70K then I will rotate every 20k With this set I have been brutal, I take off ramps fast and enjoy the flat and level sports car handling ~~~~ I always remove tires at 4/32" because some time before the wear bars contact the ground I hydroplane at super slab speeds..

Just got mine from the Mo co (Dealer),, the hitch replaces my steel bumper behind the valence,, Looks like a bunch of work Hitch was $188 plus tax Wiring harness with NO Instructions was $75.. I need diagrams or I will take it to Topper king and pay them,,or to the Mo Co... advice anyone ? Looks like I must remove the valence, Two splines go Into the Box frame and I assume when I remove the old steel bumper it will be the same and make sense... Pick Power near the battery, feed the wire all the way back,

I picked up my hitch at the dealer and It looks nothing like the after market ones,,, It replaces my steel bumper behind the valence...

I run the Super slab 10 to 12 days a week with 500 to 900 pounds of heavy equipment that's compact and low all loaded just over and forward of the rear axle. I run a tank a day or more, 1300 to 1900 miles a week. These trips Include driving Into and out of town but are IMO 80% Interstate With no traffic at 75 steady with the only hills being overpasses I manage 26 mpg regularly At 72 mph 27 mpg At 67 mph 28 mpg In traffic with all the added wind deflection and shielding from other vehicles things change, At 75 mph I get 27 or better At 72 mph 28 or better At 67 mph,,,,,,,,,,,,,,29 mpg's often but not always. To get these numbers I must always drive smooth and keep my eyes looking Into the future,,follow me ? Several days a month I find myself on long lonely two lane back roads doing a cruise control ride at 55 to 60 mph with only 200 to 300 pounds of stuff At 30 to 31 mpg. In city driving I manage 22 mpg IF I am very careful reading traffic . I run errands on the weekends In city traffic. I have the 2nd trip meter showing a average mpg of 25.9 and have not reset this in the last 20,000 miles Always at 41 psi front tire pressure and 46 out back Always running the AC, Regular fuel and the K&N Air filter and Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-20w (I am careful to NOT over fill the oil by even a single ounce) :P

55,000 now and still no problems.

I asked and was told by Ford that the on board computer would tell me when It needs changing or needs checking. I was also told that the computer would decide when my oil needed changing. I drive mostly Interstate and It Indicated on the dash I needed to change the oil at 11,000 miles. I did and was told not to bother resetting the interval system. Was also told If I started driving all city miles It may tell me to change it at 5k or 7k miles, I was reminded by Ford that my 11k mile Interval was In the cool weather of spring. Was Also told the system can tell If I am running full synthetic or a blend. I told them my old way was to run the Mobil 1 extended 15,000 mile range oil and to change it at 10k Intervals. Ford said the system may have had Indicated a change was needed at 11k miles because of harsh conditions,, I looked back at my reciept's and It turns out I got the Mobile 1 10k full synthetic, I had made a note that walmart was out of the extended range oil at that time :P The reason for this per the owners manual Is to prevent people from needlessly changing oil too soon as Is often the case. This Is very bad for the Earth,,,,,, We all should know that the old school 3,000 mile Interval is environmentally a waste and no one should be running roach oil (Fossil) In a modern engine right ? My 2006 Toyota Tacoma 2.7Ltr auto got two Transmission oil changes In 528,000 miles,, the first was at 40,000 miles only because I added a 13,000 BTU transmission oil cooler on the weekend and had to drive all day on a sunday. The added volume of the Inter cooler and additional lines needed almost 3/4ths of a quart and I had to by Napa fluid so this caused me to need a 12 quart flush. (To Get Toyota fluid back to acceptable levels) Toyota Transmission's of that era would not shift properly on any other fluid. The second change was at 300,000 miles and the old fluid came out looking, feeling and smelling exactly like the new fluid :P That Transmission never had a single problem.... Ok I'm done~

Answer to 38,500 mile post.. Out side air temp sensor replaced at dealer. Part.about 20 bucks..Labor to remove front valance and install 200 bucks,,,done Now at 47k miles..

Answer to 38,500 mile post.. Out side air temp sensor replaced at dealer. Part.about 20 bucks..Labor to remove front valance and install 200 bucks,,,done Now at 47k miles..

2015 XLT LWB Wagon..got it in..cabin air filter... Two plastic clips pop out the cover panel below glove box.. I squeezed the glove box so it would hang way down...did not remove it. Filter door uncoils..no screws..old out..squeezed/acordian style the new filter..shoved it in and it instantly expanded.... Cover panel clipped back in..re-hung the upper glove box stops and reinserted the two clips holding the lower cover panel in... DONE.

38,500 miles Ok something to report,, This will need updates as I go...... Rock truck cracked my windshield Thursday, The following Monday Safe lite shows up with the wrong windshield.. I needed the one with the mounted moisture sensor. The Insurace company farms this out to a middle man/woman who sez all she needs is my VIN number and she has that from the Insurance Info, ball gets dropped and I waste a half day waiting for the wrong windshield,,,Pfft Time to man up and grab a beer, and go watch TV.. That Thursday Another rock truck breaks the windshield on the OTHER side.. Chock one up for Murphy's Law right ? No, wrong,, Murphy lost that one because Safe lite showed with the wrong one remember ? Ok Saturday a Kid shows up, changes the windshield out and leaves...... The In dash outside air temp goes whacky wowow on me, Both on the center LCD and the Mid dash LCD,,The song goes like this : I start my Droid,,thats my Transits name btw,,and It is 37 below zero out side per the thermometer,,funny I was in shorts and its really about 75 degrees,,LoL the temdprature guage swings wildly from about 37 below up to about 45 above zero farenheit,,and back and forth it goes for about five to ten minutes then settles to a correct readout.. The day gets hotter,, up to the mid 80's now and I turn on the air conditioner,,I get HOT air on all settings, max ac, everything:( Murphy Is after me again.. and all the while the outside air temp guage is on LSD just freaking out,,, It settles down to the correct readout and the AC returns to freezing cold and all Is well,,, Me and My Droid repeat this 3 out of 4 start ups.. Seem's to be less of a problem If I leave the AC Including the rear AC fan on the lower settings,,thats still plenty to freeze me.... I'll get it fixed,,,prolly the computer needs to be updated to the new moisture sensor,,,dang sensors,,really ? Average mpg's is still 26 overall with me mixing city and Interstate driving,, about 70% Interstate at 75 mph with an average cargo load of 600 pounds.

Mine stops the flow if the fan is set low.. With the rear fan off I have no flow open or closed...

Jan 6th - March 15th about 15k miles.. Am at 35k...all Is well.

I Vacumed first, then cleaned mine In the sink, hot soapy water, It was quick and It's like new, simple :P

Thank You very much G B L

Odd, lifted the panel under the windshield, did not see a filter, behind the glove box,,nothing.....

Ok I got one from Napa, now to find the thing In the Droid.. I find this odd, I googled and got Video's on changing the Gen 1 filter. I googled every wording I could find on the 2014 and 2015,, not a single picture of the Gen 2 filter location. The panel under the windshield is one piece from fender to fender, so not there, I will Look behind the glove box. Week two, broke my windshield,,Bummer. I hate rock trucks. I will report back, Oh and I changed my oil and found the reset page, but It does not show how to reset the mile Interval between oil changes. I assume Its set to more than 5k miles as at exactly 5k It did not sound the 'Oil Change" alarm :P

I got front row at a light next to a gen 1, with It's 2.0 liter motor, the kid nailed the gas at the light.. I did shift Into sport but left the gearing up to the system and eased my foot down to about 85% of the way to the floor, Pulled away from the 2.0 liter and could hear it trying so hard, He gave up as I was about 4 car lengths away after about 125 feet... I basically walked away from the 2.0 liter and never crossed 4500 rpm, not sure I even crossed 4K revs actually, Smooth This Little 4 Lunger is I tellya :P 1/2 a liter makes a difference especially when coupled to the 6 speed, My first three are lower than His first two gears, I get into the power sooner and can stay in the sweet spot much easier.

Have not found it yet,..