Osco

OK when I searched cabin air filter I got, "Passenger side cowling,,6 screws, etc"... So what Is the 6" round filter on my floor board under the driver seat ? It's clogged up like a neglected dryer vent...

I move as quick as I want In city traffic, I hang just fine when Interstate traffic plays NASCAR and starts doing 80 bumper to bumper, Noise, comfort and luxury touches PffFffft I've owned only Pick up trucks and jeeps most of my life and my other car Is a 2010 Mustang that rides like a true sports car. If I wanted comfy and toyz Idda got me a Lincoln or a Caddie :P

This IS the Droid I was looking for :P I've never named a vehicle before, But Droid came to me when I drove It the first time In city traffic..

Oh I want to add something. Tire pressure and gas mileage:: Tire pressure, the psi marked on the door jams are for max load. Get a Tread depth guage and start a log, new tires should be 11/32 depth. The outer most groove will wear down faster due to turning forces and I'm sure you know regular rotation Is all you can do to minimize this. But the Inner three you need to watch for even wear, they Indicate over and under Inflation. When the car makers go for MPG ratings to Impress us on the window sticker they set tires at max psi and get on the smoothest surface they can find. Same with city mpg, This is not economical overall, A tire skipping over small imperfections due to TOO much air pressure Is wasting energy and slowing forward momentum. Remember we do not drive under controlled conditions. Other points: The noisier a tire the more rolling resistance you have. Dropping a single psi can quiet a tire. When You use your brakes you are burning fuel !,,,,,what you say ? ok now you think I'm an Idiot ~ Every time you brake you have to accelerate to get that forward momentum back,,,gotcha :P Example: My 2010 Ford Mustang runs Continental pro contact and the door jam psi for both front and rear is 32. while the tire max psi Is 44 It took a while to get the right pressure for even tread wear, as this car regularly did 90 miles a day at an even mix of 50/50 Interstate and city roads. The least tire noise was at 32 psi, The best overall handling was at 35 psi, The car began to get twitchy at 38 psi but cornered like a Race car. The most even tire wear Is at 34-35 psi,,,, why a range from 34-35 ? The car does better in the hot summer at 34 and better In the cooler Florida winter at 35 psi Yes I can feel the difference in one psi in the Mustang when I wag It's tail In a hard corner, Kicking the rear end out is fun but that costs me rubber... My Droid,,err my Transit connect I can feel the difference of 2 psi up front but the rear Is kinda numb, I can't feel a diff until I do a 5 psi spread BUT !! I can sure hear a 2 psi difference. I am settling Into 38 psi front and 42 psi rear as this so far Is giving me the best stability, smoothest corner tracking and least tire noise over all. As for tread depth wear with my varying loads, It will most likely take me a third the life of the tires to get it just right.

Still new to me,, my Loaded 2015 XLT LWB wagon TC with the 2.5L engine had 20,000 miles on the clock when I got it. Had It a bit over a week, 1100 miles, have checked mpg at every fill up and compared to the on board computer, well ok, two trip meters actually. On Board computer sounds cooler right ! In Florida, the flat lands, Biggest hills are Intersate overpasses :D 70% Interstate and 30% congested city driving. My average Cargo load over and just In front of the rear axle seems to be 600 pounds, the range so far peaked at 950 Lbs on two 200 plus mile trips Computer/trip average not reset in 1,000 miles is 25.6 Wth the same trip meters I show Interstate average at 70 mph steady is 28.1,, at 75 mph is 27.1 mpg City driving shows me 22.5 mpg If I behave and think! ,,, And 21.0 If I drive like the masses. When figured the old fashion way, calculator In hand at fill up my 1,000 mile average is 25.8 mpg Long trips at 70 mph is a nice 27.1 and at 75 mph is 26.5 My city mpg's are oddly just like the average mpg's on the trip meters... I bet I loose about 1 mpg when summer Hits and the A/C Is on full time. and my inner city mpg's are most likely a little hard to reach for many. My advantage is two decades In Class 5 Tractor trailer rigs, reading and anticipating traffic Is second nature to me, I can't turn that off. Over all considering the comfort, size and power of this little mini van I feel the fuel economy is Excellent :P

I plan to mount my garage door opener In that thing, I gave It a close look see and can place it with velcro squares In such a way that when I press on the closed sunglasses door,,Well It will appear closed to a casual glance, anyway the door opener will work. I have done this on other vehicles...

Thanks for the Video Don :P It will have to be completely removed from the compartment to service it It but I does have caps so I can open it to add distilled water, Generally all my batteries will from topped off expose plates in about two summers, If not kept at optimum the plates will see air when the battery sloshes about after just one summer down here. Maybe,,I can open the side of the compartment up for better air flow, that box seems a bit closed up.. Now I gotta find the cabin air filter,,I bet I need to change that...

I average 72,000 miles a year and carry an average of 650 pounds of equipment. Just purchased the one below with 20,000 miles on the clock 2015 TC XLT LWB wagon 2.5L engine.. I will run full synthetic Mobil 1 with 10,000 mile oil change Intervals. 75-80% will be Interstate crawling at 70-75 mph.. Got 528,000 out of 2006 Tacoma, Sold it running smooth..gutless but reliable. Got 394,000 with a 1996 Jeep Cherokee with the venerable designed in 1957 AMC 4.0 L converted to EFI...Rear main let go due to crank bearing slop..I wore it out..never a breakdown and took the tranny that far also.... I will update as I go..I plan to be the high mileage sensi... The 10k oil change interval...I know how and why it's completely safe to go that far ...

Yeah that's a good low number, I upped the front to 38 psi, feels better, the rear is now at 42, more stable. I may try 44 out back. I do use a tread depth gauge across all the tire grooves to make sure I am not under or over and log every oil change... I will drive this Droid 60 to 80k a year, should be fun :D

I have not found the battery yet, buried it deep they did, Too funnay , Maintenance free sealed batteries die quick down here in Florida. If I ever find the thing I'll try and fit a gel or an AGM volt tank In the spot,, They last about 3 years, these sealed wet acid units, I regularly get 5 to 6 years if I open them and add distilled water twice a year. Do not understand the anticipate / high-way / Economy mode yet, can I set this and lock it ? I really like this funky little Euro van :P

The Eco hits max Torque at 2700 rpm, My 2.5 Hits it at about 5600 I think.. Eco has about 10% more pull but IMO the normally asperated 2.5 has a better chance of hitting a half million miles, stronger crank and all.. we shall see.

The Triple T,,, Tax, Tag, Title fee's 7% sales tax, the others, not much..

This IS the Droid I was looking for :P The bed and the 'Bed Slide' of my trusty 2013 F-150 was just too high for me to lift things Into, I lift lots of heavy things, repeatedly and this was hurting me. My Transit Connect deck height is at my knee height, This works great for me. 2015 2.5L XLT LWB 'wagon', 20,000 miles on the clock but like new, Got this little Droid for $16,800 plus the triple T... Simpler to list what options It does NOT have; No Leather seats, Seats not heated or cooled, I am In Florida btw No electric seats but they manually adjust in every direction. Odd this missing option.. Very comfortable, Very Fuel efficient IMO, Handles tight and predictable, Great Visibility, Obviously right ! Plenty of power, 80% of the time I live at 70-75 mph, the rest is the stop and go we all hate. Avg mpg per the on board computer is 27.1 This verifies the old fashion way plus or minus 5% with 27.1 in the middle I expect this to drop to 25-26 when summer hits and I turn my little van into an Ice box :D

Thank you Root Admin Bot :P I Traded a F-150 XL for This Transit Connect LWB XLT (Wagon) because I desperately needed a lower working deck. I took out the third row seats to get my very heavy Items over the rear axle point. It's working great plus the near 30 mpg is a bonus...

I'm In the XLT LWB with the 2.5 engine 2015 Model I took out the back third row seats and built a plywood flat box with 6" rails and tie downs, Bolted that to the seat bolt holes. I regularly load this with 500 to 900 pounds. Removing the 3rd seat allowed me to center my load In front of and over the rear axle point,, The rear cup holders are a great reference marker btw.. The Stock 'High Load' Conti tires work great and I get the best handling with 36 psi front and 41 psi rear. Max Tire pressures marked on the tires and the door jam does not apply as I do not load up with 1290 pounds. The tire pressure listed on the door jam Is obviously for max vehicle loading and marked as such, Mine shows 41 psi front and 44 psi rear. I do the math on the weight on each axle with me and a full fuel tank on board then I factor In my average cargo load and I have a tire pressure range working down from max loading and max psi. Individual axle load can be determined simply by stopping In an Interstate weigh station and politely asking a D.O.T. Officer to let you drive onto his portable scale. The Other option Is to use the scale at the county solid waste disposal site, open to the public. I have never had a problem with either of these methods. Accuracy of the big county scales are very good and you get a printed ticket to compare the GVW to the listed specification. Go back with your loaded van and test that, a small fee may be charged,,,no problem.. I will rotate every 10k miles. I take my turns easy loaded and empty. I'd say 70 to 80% of the miles I am at 500 to 600 pounds of cargo, 15% of the remaining miles I am at 800 to 900 and the last 5% I am empty.