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I think it would work. With out a lift it will be a task to do it while the car is running. having put fluid in the car several times now , the cap is acccessable without pulling the air cleaner off a long thin funnel works well. If you have the plug out with the car running as you add fluid then you wont over fill it. Just don't for get to put the plug back in. Shutting the car off with the plug off will make a real mess I know!

Correct, I made a little dipstick so I can tell how close to the hole the fluid is. If the car is not fully warm it allows me to check the level Mercon LV is what is asked for. And yes the car wants to be running. The fluid drains back after the engine stops. I have also put an oil pad in the dust cover so I get an idea of how much fluid leaks out.

What am I checking out

When I watched the escape video that you saw and highlighted the parts that he changed did not look very warn. the left half shaft is very short and it could be there is some axial motion of the inner joint. the wobble could cause oil to walk by the seal. Mine seems to be slowing down as the joint wears in. If the car had a dip stick then the amount mine leaks would not be an issue. Just a mess. hope the new parts do solve the issue I would love to see the old parts keep track How many miles on your TC Let us know how it is going!

The breaker bar will work. Be careful The crank sprocket is keyed to the crank for sure. You will have to set the crank the crank and then the cams how does the tensioner work. keep going

Cool Hope it helps Checked mine yesterday and with just over 10100 on the clock the leak has slowed on mine. I am continuing to keep track. when you check it again Let us know how it is doing. I think the vote is still out at Ford as to the cause. Thanks for the up date.

What did you torque it to, did you use Loctite? If you did you might have to heat the bolt If you do pull the starter put the bar in carefully. How many CFM is the compressor ? Take it slow

Cool can't wait for the result let me know

Take your time and make sure the tensioner takes up the slack turn it over two full revolutions to bring the marks back and check them again.

Sounds like we were right there with the cause. I think that the valves are most likely ok as the shop does this alot I would re check the timing first Make sure tha tool goes with your engine and not the earlier 2.0 that ford has but you are closing in on the finish Let me know what you find Keep up the good work

One more thing The Crank position sensor has an alignment tool that comes with the new sensor if the distance and alignment to the Trigger wheel is off then you would have a no start

From the Pictures the cam sensor is on the end of one of the cams and its timing is set with the timing chain and the sensor goes in through the valve cover. The crank sensor is in the front engine cover and should be set by the Crank shaft. If The cam timing is correct there should be no way that the timing could be off not like the old days with a distributor. You Know that you could get a good scanner I think Auto Zone sells this model and Although not a pro Scanner it does give live data and has a freeze frame Actron CP9580A Enhanced AutoScanner Plus Buy new: $124.99 24Used & newfrom $124.99 (284) One more Question does the Tach move when you are cranking the engine.

I know it is hard to be everywhere. If you can get some one to Crank the engine you could see if the injectors are cycling Did you pull a plug to see if the injectors are working? Where is the crank sensor on the engine, does it have a cam sensor? With coil on plug and multiport Injection the no spark sounds like no timing signal. Does the Manual you have include a wiring harness for the engine computer circuit. A good live data scanner will tell you alot

Did you check all the fuses, I have enclosed a copy of the owners Manual. it has a diagram of all the fuses that are relavant. When you turn the key on does the fuel pump cycle to prime the injectors, do the guages come on. A live data scanner will let you know if the computer is hot. When the engine cranks does it sound normal, Like when you did the Compression test Keep up the good work and keep me posted 2011 Transit connect man.pdf

Does your Scanner give live data Have you cranked the engine with the Scanner hooked up ? It should show you if any sensors are unplugged. If there is a spark problem it should set a trouble code. could you have hit a sensor putting the engine in or taking it out. Check all the engine Grounds . The crank sensor tells the Computer when to fire the plugs and injectors the rest of the sensors tell it how and what the engine needs. If the Scanner has live data you should be able to see the sensor values with the key on engine off. I will check back tomorrow.

hey a lot has happened . Does the Fuel pump Cycle for a couple of seconds when the key is turned on ? If it sounds normal when it cranks then it is most likely a Connector that is off or not connected Sleep on it and Keep us posted.

The seat folds down and then moves forward a two step process. Is the seat in the forward position? Or is the back just folded down. If it is forward it has to be moved to the back and then the seat back can be pressed down and unlocked. Good luck. Keep us posted

Any more progress?

Mustang great job, Looking forward to the rest of the van build out with out the drama I am very Interested to here how the tires work out both winter and summer. Keep the information comming.

Alot of great information and great pictures. As the wheels get bigger and the sidewalls get shorter and road maintenance is defered or not done the tire problems will increase. Here is a review of a tire that I have had great luck with . They are not the longest lasting, but have been a great choice. And they have the right load rating for the TC. http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/culture/commuting/are-all-weather-tires-a-good-compromise/article16190526/

Mine has just under 9000 on the clock, It is getting 28to 29 at highway speed 68-75. A good speed don't need a radar detector, no longer racing the police.

Put the front windows down find a smooth road Move the wheel right and left several times and if the noise gets louder going to the left then the Right bearing is the likely cause. If it gets louder going to the right then the Left wheel is the likely cause. Hope this helps , Let me know!

Sounds like a great ride. How was the weather going through Glenwood Canyon. That is a Beautiful ride. Because of the Altitude 85 is enough octane for the 2.5 Liter . The 1.6 Turbo would want more to get the power. Is your TC a Wagon or a van?

Cool The timing will be the same for either head, line up the marks and go slow and let the tension-er take up the slack and go through 2 full revolutions and make sure the marks line up again and you will be fine. Waiting for the next round.

There's the answer the bag that said first is the top and the Second is ring number 2. You should be able to flush out the oil cooler with a good cleaner. When you drained the old oil what did it look like? what was the condition of the old Rod bearings any evidence of grit or scoring? If not then you should be able to clean and re use it . The engine came out for a compression problem and not an oiling problem.