windguy

@jenni driver - sorry for your woes. Sounds like you're on a heavy duty trek. Hope it's been fun so far. Perhaps you can post some pics of what you're dealing with so someone can more easily provide a solution or at least a temp fix. Gen 1 or Gen 2 TC? Perhaps you can also share about where you're located or will be traveling too soon and maybe a forumite who lives nearby can assist with the problem. Just a thought. Good luck. PS - just to be clear, you're asking if you can use some silicone caulk, right? ?

Thanks Don. Will follow those tips. I did a little exploration and believe I can see the speaker about where the diagram showed it should be in the left rear corner. You can see some of the adhesive used to tack it down ran a bit over the edge of the headliner. Speaker is black. A bit hard to capture a pic while but visually it's a bit clearer since you can angle your sight just right. Will provide an update when available. Thanks again!

Thanks Don for the quick reply, info, and PDF. Very helpful. Does your manual also show how to lower the headliner on a cargo model? A PDF of that would be most helpful to guide me. One saving grace, besides the low speaker cost, is that the speaker is mounted in the rear of the headliner, so perhaps I can access without removing the headliner, just lowering that left rear corner. Hopefully I can do this without any collateral damage, which I'm sadly very good at doing. Thanks again for the help. Most appreciated!

UPDATES: 1 - Checking speaker resistance I was able to check both front and rear speaker resistance: front - short between pins 3 & 4 (Connector B) rear - open between pins 2 & 10 (Connector A) In case this helps the next guy, below pics show the position of Connectors C9071A, B, C on the PAM. Also where on the schematic the connector designation is shown. I used individual wires from scrap Cat5 cable, which seemed to fit nicely into the connectors to check the resistance. I'm sure there's better options but it worked. Thanks again to Don R for providing that schematic. 2 - Checking PAM PID (Performance Information Data) using FORScan Setting up a PID table using the video link posted above was straightforward and pretty slick. Shown below are two screen shots taken while testing. Great suggestion by Don R. for checking this out. FORScan is such a great tool. Bummed to read Don R's post about the licensing hiccups with the Russia war going on. All eight front and rear sensors appear to be working. The value changes from 3m to 1m when the sensor is activated. Not sure what the m stands for. Front - The status for the TONE and SENSOR change from inactive to active when the sensor is triggered. Seems okay. Rear - The REAR TONE STATUS doesn't change to active when the sensor is triggered. That may show the speaker doesn't work as indicated by the DTC posted earlier. Based on this testing, I'm changing my bet to the REAR SPEAKER being the problem and not the PAM. Any other thoughts on what to do next? I think it's time to scope out this rear speaker. The question is where is it located?? Any help in locating that would be appreciated. I sure hope it's easily accessible but I'm expecting that's probably not the case. Thanks for the help guys! LOCATION OF CONNECTOR ID ON SCHEMATIC - A, B or C CONNECTOR ID ON PAM (A-left, B-center, C-right) FORSCAN - CHECKING PAM PID PARAMETERS - WITH IGNITION ON BUT ENGINE OFF FORSCAN - CHECKING PAM PID PARAMETERS - WITH ENGINE ON Condition - Left Rear Outer Sensor triggered (1m) and Front Sensor triggered but value change not showing "1m" during the screen grab. Value toggles from 3 to 1 pretty quickly even though the FRONT TONE STATUS is still showing ACTIVE. Slight lag on that. REAR TONE STATUS always Inactive.

Thanks Don. That's a great idea. I didn't even know what a PID is (Performance Information Data) but I found a youtube video showing how to check using FORScan, linked below. I think I can handle doing that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=othzIGwDtiE UPDATES: 1 - I checked F37 (5a - tan) in the engine compartment and it's okay. 2 - I then removed the three connectors going into the PAM so I can check the sounder resistance. Tried to figure out where the sounder pins are. A bit difficult since there is a shell around the connector so you can't easily see what color wire goes into what pin #. Didn't want to risk removing the connector from the shell and messing it up. I'm sure it's easy to do if you know how to do it. I need to go back to the wiring diagram directly rather than using my notes. Also need to find a better wire to stick in the connector to check with the multi-meter. It was a case of too thick or too thin. I hope to do better on my second attempt.

@Don R - many thanks Don. The tips and wiring diagram will be very useful. I see the fuse number now, F37 in the Battery J-box. Will start there to be sure. Based on the diagram, there are two speakers, front and rear. I guess that's how you get a different tone for front and rear sensors. Seems odd both speakers would cut out at the same time unless if one goes then the whole PAM shuts down. I would agree that the PAM should be an easy replacement without any programming. I'm now betting my money on that being the suspect. Will report back. Thanks again!!! PAM Module Info from FORScan. Part Number DT1T-15K866-DE

PROBLEM OVERVIEW My 2015 Cargo XLT has the factory optional front/rear parking sensors and backup camera. New problem that just cropped up with the Parking Aid Module (PAM) and I need help in trying to diagnose and perhaps fix this, if I have the skills. My fear is that if I bring the van into the dealer they will say I need an entire new parking sensor system (8 sensors, module, sounder). That could be very costly. When the van is in gear, the Parking Switch is illuminated as "OFF" constantly. Can't enable or turn on. Didn't realize the parking sensors weren't chiming, both front and rear. It's been working great for the last seven years. First time there's been an issue. The backup camera works just fine. I scoured this forum and the web looking for similar problems and found some discussions in forums with the same problem reported, but no resolution. Videos on youtube were helpful in diagnosing the problem using FORScan and also how to test and replace the sensors if those were faulty. I included links to the videos at the bottom of the post just as a reference in case someone else needs it in the future. Kind of a WIKI for the PAM. WHAT I'VE DONE SO FAR First step was to look for a fuse. Problem is I don't have a rear cargo fuse panel so I have no idea what fuse number it would be in the engine compartment. Sucks that's not identified in the user's manual. Only if you have the rear cargo fuse panel, F30 - Parking Aid. I don't think it's the fuse because I can hear the sensors clicking. Second step was to check the sensors. The front and rear sensors seem to be working with an audible clicking sound, for the most part. A little inconsistent in the intensity but I can detect the clicking from all of them. Third step was to connect FORScan. Below is a screen shot with the error code after running a test on the PAM. I cleared the DTC's and the same error code for the PAM came back. DTC: B1B52:14-2B Not sure what the 14-2B suffix is but the B1B52 pops up on a web search, highlighted below. No indication there is a fault with any of the sensors. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- https://www.engine-codes.com/b1b52_ford.html B1B52 – Rear Sounder-Park Aid Circuit Short B1B52 Possible Symptoms Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) B1B52 Possible Causes Faulty Rear Parking Aid Speaker, Rear Parking Aid Speaker harness is open or shorted, Rear Parking Aid Speaker circuit poor electrical connection, Faulty Parking Assist Control Module (PAM) B1B52 Description The Parking Assist Control Module (PAM) monitors the Rear Sounder-Park Aid Circuit Short. A continuous memory and on-demand Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) that sets Sets when the sounder circuit is shorted to voltage or Sets when the sounder circuit is open or shorted to ground. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- NEED HELP The SOUNDER appears to be the SPEAKER. If the speaker is the source of the problem and needs to be replaced, I have no idea where it's located. Can't search by sound since it's off. Perhaps someone else with a cargo van can figure that out for me. One video on youtube shows how to replace the speaker, which was mounted on the headliner. Quite involved process to drop the headliner just to get to that part. Greatly appreciate any help with how to diagnose or figure out how to fix this problem. THANKS GUYS! FORSCAN SCREEN SHOT PARKING AID MODULE PIC YOUTUBE LINKS ON REPAIR TIPS HOW TO DIAGNOSE PAM WITH FORSCAN https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PL146G01dk HOW TO DIAGNOSE PAM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzcIKq550Jg Transit Custom Parking sensor fault how to fix replace rear sounder speaker beeper remove headlining https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8c4WwGefiQ

Not sure if this will help, but I replaced F15, also a 20amp fuse. Info below. F15 Fuse - 20amp P/N: F8SZ-14526-AA $3.96ea

Thanks Don, that's interesting. Without those nice sound system upgrades, the HD radio might not be worth my while. Plus the van background noise is pretty noisy, even with the extra sound proofing I added. I think it's slick that you were able to pioneer this radio upgrade, just like the IPC before. Nice job!

That's true if you have the standard bumper. If you have the factory trailer hitch, then there's no recovery hook port in the rear bumper. The bumper cover does have the port though. We discussed this issue about 5-6 years ago.

@Don - congrats on getting your HD radio installed. Nice write-up, thanks for sharing that. What are some of the benefits of having the HD radio over the non-HD version. I see on the LCD you now get the song title. I get that on my plain vanilla radio. My ACM is DT1T-19C107-AE

The diagnostic software is by FORscan, as shown in the header of each screen grab. Free or low cost to use depending on what version you use. Same as what Don and other forumites have used. The dealer uses sophisticated software from Ford tied to the Ford database with customer vehicle info and software updates. Since not having a radio isn't a critical issue for your van operation, I'd take a step back before paying someone $150 just to get a part number for you. I would start out using FORscan to see what modules you have loaded. Probably very similar to mine less some optional equipment I have like Trailer Module and Parking Aid Module. To use FORscan, you will need to buy decent ODBI dongle that you can directly connect to a Laptop via a USB cable or there are Bluetooth versions. This has been discussed many times over in this forum. Having the ODBI dongle and FORscan can also be useful for you down the road. Guys like Don R can help you in this department if you get jammed up. Removing the radio shouldn't be too difficult. Probably many youtube videos available showing you how to do this. When ordering your ODBI dongle from Amazon, I'd also get an inexpensive set of plastic trim tools. These are things poster Don R has recommended to others a few years back and it's sound advice to have these tools available to you.