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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/05/2017 in all areas

  1. Our family fleet currently consists of: 2004 Saab 9-3 Arc Convertible 2005 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0 Sedan 2012 Hyundai Tuscon 2017 Ford Transit Connect Wagon Titanium My first car was a real oddball, a 1976 Chevrolet Cosworth Vega. First American production car with DOHC 16 valve engine + electronic fuel injection + aluminum cast alloy wheels. I still have a bunch of spare parts including a complete engine, wheels and some other items. I hope to find another one someday. Long story.
    1 point
  2. williaty

    Door Locks

    Lack of a physical lock button/switch on the inside of the doors is a REALLY stupid decision on Ford's part but there's a real pain in the ass work-around for it. Every door, on the edge of the door where it shuts into the jamb opposite the hinges, has a lock cylinder that fits the key. So you have to open each door, manually rotate the lock cylinder with the key, then shut each door. However, there may be a decently large gotcha. The wording in the manual where it talks about this sucks. I think the manual is saying that, if you restore electrical power, the power actuators are now disconnected from the mechanical portion of the lock. That means you'll have to open the driver's side door with the key (since it's the only one with a lock cylinder on the outside), then crawl through the car opening each door from the inside (remember that the sliding doors and rear barn doors will require TWO pulls before they open), then flip the lock cylinder in the door edge back the other way to "reconnect" the mechanical portion of the lock to the electrical portion of the lock. I'm not sure that's what the manual is trying to say though. I need to go test this on my van before the day I have to do it, come to think of it.
    1 point
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