PATWS6 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 Hey guys was hoping you could help with a 2012 Transit we got a few months back. Problem started a few weeks after owning it. Transit Will turn off while in route (motor still running) we would loose radio a/c and gauge cluster. It would only turn off for a brief moment. This would happen ~10 times on a 20 min trip. Extremely annoying, because you would have to turn the a/c back on and what not. I diagnosed the car with a scanner no codes pending or in history. Checked battery it came out good. Checked alternator and it was showing charging volts. Went ahead and replaced battery any ways and when we did this car would work fine for 2-3 days and then the problem would occur again. Not sure where else to go from here ive done some research and found the single alternator wire has been known to be bad on these cars US and UK. Have not tore it out of the loom yet to see if that problem exists. However the car only has 60k miles would like to get this fixed it is a delivery van for a business and we need it A+. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtn Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 (edited) This sounds very much like grounding problem. You need to check all wiring again. I also had a bad contact on the alternator wire, one of the battery ground cables broke mid drive (battery was loose in tray, the cable connected to the body snapped) but I doubt you have anything wrong with that. Start by looking for the relevant fuse box and removing reinserting all relevant fuses/relays. Check for moisture. Edited July 14, 2016 by mrtn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATWS6 Posted July 14, 2016 Author Share Posted July 14, 2016 traced back the 3 wire from alt it seems to be good checked fuses. HOWEVER with a ohm meter car will ready 12.7 with battery off and while running BARELY anything over 12.7-13.1volts bad alt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103west43rd Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 (edited) Hello PATWS6. If I was to guess, I think mrtn is correct, it seems like a grounding issue. Here are a few tests for the alternator......With the engine NOT running, use a volt meter to check the voltage between the positive cable to the alternator (top rear of the alternator) and any near ground. It should measure the same as the battery voltage. With the engine running at idle, headlights on and blower on high,check the voltage between the positive cable to the alternator and the positive terminal of the battery. The voltage drop should be less than 0.5 volts. With the engine not running, disconnect the positive cable to the alternator and with a ohm meter, check the resistance between the generator housing and ground. It should be less than 25,000 ohms.There must be two dozen checks of just the connectors and wiring. This is a tough problem to figure out without trouble codes. All the above tests would show trouble codes if there was a problem. Good luck. Edited July 14, 2016 by 103west43rd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 What is the battery voltage with the engine off ? What is the battery voltage with engine running ? What happens to the voltage when the lights and heater fan are switched on? Does the engine falter when every thing switches off? If the engine does not falter then the supply power to the Module that controls the ac,radio and instrument cluster is intermittent.It could be a ground or the supply voltage.I have not yet gotten a gen 1 wiring diagram so I am some what limited . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtn Posted July 15, 2016 Share Posted July 15, 2016 The charging voltage looks to be on the low side, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATWS6 Posted July 16, 2016 Author Share Posted July 16, 2016 Car off it will see 12.7 volts car running can be anywhere from 12.8 to high 13s. I will check all grounds yet again but I can find a wiring diagram for gen1 any where. Can anyone point me in the direction of all the chassis grounds and engine harness grounds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted July 16, 2016 Share Posted July 16, 2016 When the cut out happens does the car quit running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATWS6 Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 update. went ahead and replaced the alternator and seems the car is still doing it. At idle before it was hanging out around 13.7 volts while running. Now its over 14 so im sure the alt was not running as efficient as it could be. But the damn thing is still doing it and im ready to burn the car to the ground. can any one else give me any insight on what it could be. We have a secuity light on the car now and it hesitates to start until the light is off. Also there is a clicking relay when the key is removed from the ignition and it only turns off if you turn the lights on. Weird ass ford problems. please help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 When this issue happens does the engine turn off and you have to stop or does the display and radio stop working and you have to switch the ignition on and off to restore the total function. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATWS6 Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) I dont have to cycle the motor. the car stays running i just loose all accessory . power like radio ac gauges. Edited August 1, 2016 by PATWS6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidcit Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 On 2015 Transit Connect there is a current recall for instrument cluster problems. It is a software issue. Your fault is possibly related to the Power Control Module (PCM). Maybe time to see a dealer mrtn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtn Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 1 hour ago, kidcit said: On 2015 Transit Connect there is a current recall for instrument cluster problems. It is a software issue. Your fault is possibly related to the Power Control Module (PCM). Maybe time to see a dealer Interesting. I have noticed two weird faults: sometimes speakers don't make a beep, back on after power cycle sometimes, when switching on the headlights, the radio console is completely dark, lights up when adjusting the dash illumination Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidcit Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 On 2015 Transit Connect there is a current recall for instrument cluster problems. It is a software issue. Your fault is possibly related to the Power Control Module (PCM). Maybe time to see a dealer http://www.lemonauto.com/complaints/ford/ford_transit_connect.htm N NEWS: Ford is recalling certain 2014-2015 Ford Escape and Transit Connect vehicles; ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Report Receipt Date: JUN 24, 2015 NHTSA Campaign Number: 15V406000 Component(s): ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Potential Number of Units Affected: 182,520 JULY 2015 -- Ford Motor Company (Ford) is recalling certain model year 2014-2015 Ford Escape vehicles manufactured May 19, 2014, to February 6, 2015, and Transit Connect vehicles manufactured May 13, 2014, to December 10, 2014. Due to a software incompatibility issue, the instrument panel cluster be inoperative including a blank multiple functional display (MFD), and non-functional warning chimes, messages and warning lights. Specific warning chimes, messages and warning lights. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 101, "Control and Displays." If the instrument cluster is inoperative, the driver of may not be warned of safety related issues such as low tire pressures or disabled air bags, increasing the risk of personal injury or a crash. Ford will notify owners, and dealers will update the instrument panel software, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin August 10, 2015. Ford's number for this recall is 15C03. Owners may also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), or go to www.safercar.gov. Prairie Pyro 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Not having the networking diagram for a gen 1 my best guess is a power fault or a bad ground at the instrunent control module or the Module that controls the radio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103west43rd Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 I posted the instrument panel recall on the forum last July 4th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103west43rd Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Hello T0ASTERvan. A good dealership checks every vehicle in for service for recalls. Anytime a recall is completed, all manufacturers require a paper trail, a repair order, to be created. The repair order needs to be signed by the customer. If your dealership did a recall on your vehicle while it was in for routine service, you would see it on the repair order. If the recall was announced before the vehicle was sold, the dealership is required to complete the recall before the customer takes delivery of the vehicle. In that case, you would not know the recall was completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidcit Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 If you are concerned that you have not received a recall notice you can enter your vin number at the NHTSA site. My only reason for mentioning the recall was to suggest that the problem wasn't necessarily hardware related. Hard to troubleshoot without a logic diagram as well as electrical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonShockley Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 5 hours ago, kidcit said: If you are concerned that you have not received a recall notice you can enter your vin number at the NHTSA site. ..... I had done this before when the the recall was first mentioned a while back and did the VIN entry method again when this issue posted and both times the NHTSA site said no recalls. But when I read manufacture dates in the recall notice posted above, my 2015 TC seems to require a fix. Not sure why the NHTSA isn't showing one, just another government colution that doesn't actually work as promised. I guess I'll need to keep a closer eye out here and manually check my vehicle against the recall notices instead of relying on the NHTSA VIN checker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted August 3, 2016 Share Posted August 3, 2016 The date range could be part of the recall . It might be modified by the vin number . You should check at ford.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATWS6 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 So update: this is beyond me. I'm only hoping and praying to any ford vet tech that is out there for the grace of God could save my soul for all its worth by helping me with this issue. heres what I have 2012 transit connect. Brand new battery and alternator. Car still will loose assesory power. Verify all positive feeds with multi meter battery 12.7 while off keeping a steady charge at 14.0~ volts while running ON BOTH battery post and alternator post while running. Grounds were not great I verified ground through multi meter negative and alternator case and engine case. I didn't like the 1.2-2.0 I was getting across it while running should be less than .05 So I added a 4 gauge ground wire from the ALTERNATOR bracket on the motor in between the engine block and the other end on the frame. JUST FOR REASUARANCE. And it fixed my problem it got the number down to .05 exactly so I thought for sure it fixed in fact it would go without doing the problem for 2 weeks then BAM. Out of no where is starts occurring again. Loose ac power radio power gauge cluster power. Engine will still run. Have to manually turn everything back on. so I throw the transit on the charger overnight on 2 amp deep cycle to the battery. And it works great for a couple days and then the prob ensues. It's like something is draining the battery while the transit is off and it's weak while driving. Any ideas I'm out of suggestions thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtn Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 An auto electrician will probably find the fault in half and hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Did you put an amp meter in series with the positive battery to check what the parasitic draw is? If you have a scan tool you can get the voltage while you are driving. If you don't get a volt meter and plug it into the power point . Check the voltage while under way. The alternator amp output also needs to be checked with the lights , AC and the blower on. It should be more than enough to carry the load. Keep the up dates comming . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATWS6 Posted September 13, 2016 Author Share Posted September 13, 2016 Gbl, yes all assessories were on when it was tested. I wired up a gauge and brought it in the car, while running with all the shit on it never dropped under 14.0 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonShockley Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 (edited) On 8/1/2016 at 9:03 PM, G B L said: Not having the networking diagram for a gen 1 my best guess is a power fault or a bad ground at the instrunent control module or the Module that controls the radio I had a problem on an F150 about 20 years ago where it would randomly die. Then once towed to the dealer it was fine. Eventually I found it myself by methodically checking every connection. It was a bad ground connection. I forget the exact setup but a ground wire to the frame in the engine bay had stripped threads where the self tapping bolt went into a hole in the frame. The intermittent comnectiom caused by road vibration was randomly killing the engine. A few bucks to replace the self tapper with a SS through bolt and lock nut gave me back a good ground and I never had another problem after that. Edited September 13, 2016 by DonShockley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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