ActiveIndy Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Anyone with a first gen TC have an issue with it overheating after siting still/idling for 15-20 or so minutes? I've mostly owned Honda products in the past and their cooling system is typically overengineered so I've never really had an issue like what I'm seeing with my van. After 15-20 minutes of stop/go trafficwhen the temps outside are 85F+ the temp gauge starts climbing up near the red until I get the van moving again to get airflow over the radiator. Luckily here in Indy we don't have really bad traffic issues so this rarely happens, but it has happened a handful of times over the past couple of months. Just trying to gauge if this is "normal" or if there is something going on with the thermostat or something. Coolant levels are good and the system was flushed by the dealer in the spring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103west43rd Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 Hello ActiveIndy. My first thought is your cooling fan is not working. Cooling temp should not show over half way on the temp gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Spot on 103west43rd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ActiveIndy Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Thanks guys - was able to take a look today and let it run until it heated up and did confirm the fans are not coming on. Can someone walk me through a few things I might be able to check before taking it into a dealer? There a fuse that might have blown? Electrical connections that have come a little loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonShockley Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Check your owners manual for the fuse box info. I've got a second gen and the blower is powered from a 50A Fuse (F8) on the high current battery junction box There is also a control relay (R12) in the battery fuse box There should be similar items on the first gen that you can check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103west43rd Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Hello DonShockley, thanks for trying to help ActiveIndy but the first and second generation Transit Connects are two different vehicles. It reads like you have a wiring manual for the second generation so please continue to jump in with help, we need more second generation owners with tech ability and manuals on this forum. ActiveIndy,as for the first generation engine cooling fans , they are supplied power from the battery junction box(BJB) behind the battery on the firewall. There are 3 fuses, a, 30 amp (F16) for the low speed relay, 50 amp (F17) for the high speed relay and 10 amp(F14) for the Power Control Module (PCM). F14 is the first fuse on the bottom left side of the BJB. It is a mini size fuse. F16 is two fuses over to the right and it is a large cartridge size. F17 is the next cartridge fuse to the right of F16. There is also a cooling fan diode and engine cooling fan resistor in the circuit but check the fuses first. If they all check good, let us know and I will tell you how to find the diode and resistor. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ActiveIndy Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Just came in from poking around in the fuse box. 50amp fuse was blown, but 30 amp looked ok. Need to go back and check the 10 amp fuse... Is there a particular brand of fuses that are recommended? I assume this is something I can pick up at an auto part store (Napa, AutoZone etc)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103west43rd Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 ActiveIndy, for a 50 amp fuse to blow there will need to be a dead short in the wiring to ground or one or both fan motors are frozen solid! Check the wiring around the fans and follow it back as much as you can see and touch. I am sure any of the leading parts stores can supply a fuse. Please keep in mind that fuses blow for a reason, and a 50 amp fuse blows for a major reason. Let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ActiveIndy Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Didn't see anything wrong with the wiring and both fans spin freely.... Went ahead and replaced the fuse and works as intended now. Will continue to keep an eye on things. Thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103west43rd Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Ok ActiveIndy, thanks for the update. Glad we could save you a few dollars! Greastart 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Nice Job every one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank in Dallas Posted August 26, 2016 Share Posted August 26, 2016 Hello, I am experiencing the same symptoms on my 2010 TC. Just got through testing Fuses F16, F17 & F14. They all tested good. I saw that there was also a Cooling Fan Diode & Engine Cooling Fan Resistor in the circuit. Would anyone be able to help me locate those please? Thank you, Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 In the power distribution box under the hood 30A 30B and 30C are relays that are in the Cooling fan circuit. The cooling fan diode is no 32 in that box. You can test there for power and you can also see if the fan works from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jmarsh304 Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 I have as similar issue but maybe more indepth. Experanced the same problem as previously stated but there is still an intermittent problem. Blown 50 amp fuse. Replaced. Also replaced blower resistor. Sometimes the fan works and sometimes it doesn't. Unless there is a deeper wiring issue I haven't found somewhere I dont understand it. I do know I can jump power directly to the resistor and force the fan to come on without problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 have you checked the fan relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Godfrey Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 I have a 2012, was overheating. Checked fuses and F17 (50 amp) was blown. Ran it until fan came on. Hoping this takes care of it. Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspillz Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 (edited) Hey just wanted to chime in here...I had a similar problem on my 2013, found my 50A fuse for high speed fan blown. I replaced it, didn't think much of it. Then the new one blew, and I realized something was strange. Turns out cooling fan resistor, located on the top part of the fan assembly, which works for the "low speed fan" circuit, was bad. Resistance was infinite (wide open). This was causing the fans to not operate at low speed. My thinking is the high speed fan circuit wasn't designed for fans to start up from a standstill to high speed, and it pulls more than 50A to do so, blowing the fuse occasionally. So my fans were either off, or high speed. Every time it would spin up, the engine idle RPM would dip low, headlights would dim for a second, etc. In hindsight this makes sense, because it was pulling way too much power to get the fans to start from still to high speed. Another thing that's also better now, is that my A/C used to not blow cold, unless I was moving. Now when I turn on the A/C, the low speed fan kicks on, and it feels nice and cool even when my car is stationary. Lesson is, low speed fan not working can cause high speed fuse to blow. Resistor is only used for low speed fan circuit. Edited July 6, 2019 by aspillz Willygee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 6 hours ago, aspillz said: my 2013, low speed fan not working can cause high speed fuse to blow. Resistor is only used for low speed fan circuit. Good information. Thank you very much. If it's not too much trouble, maybe a few pictures would help the next guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Godfrey Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 Thanks, Aspillz. That makes sense. Mine just started overheating again. All fuses check out as OK. Fans are running. I will check thermostat next and cooling fan resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G McCollum Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 (edited) This is an older topic, but I have an older TC. Three of them as a matter of fact. Delivery vans, heavy mileage. I have a 2010 with 305k and blown engine for parts, a 2011 with 250k and a 2013 with 271K and blown engine. Just replaced engine with used with 90k. Started for the first time today! However, after 30 minutes at idle, temp is mid gauge, but no fans. Follow bleed air procedure, 2500 rpm for 8 minutes. Temp slowly creeps up past 3/4, no fan. No decrease in coolant. Radiator is hot as are hoses. No codes. Ran KOEO test, fans came on. Seems that rules out fuses, which I checked, relays, fan motor and PCM? Any ideas? Replace the 2 temp sensors? The used engine, came with sensors. This van would sometimes overheat at traffic light pre blow up. I'm stumped. Edited October 14, 2020 by G McCollum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wordsmythe Posted May 5, 2021 Share Posted May 5, 2021 Thanks for the information, everyone. I was having the same problem on my 2010 Transit Connect overheating in heavy traffic and my mechanic said my fans were bad so they were replaced. Afterwards I was still having an occasional problem with overheating in heavy traffic on a hot day here in South Florida yet the fans would run. I looked here on this forum, and I found 103west43rd instructions on where to look for the fuses for high and low speed. I copied the post and gave it to my mechanic who found that the 50 amp fuse was indeed blown, so when the vehicle got too hot for the slow speed on the fans, they just quit working because the 50 amp fuse was blown to make the fans work on high. Naturally the temperature gauge would then spike until I got moving again, then it would fall back into normal range. Who knew they had two speed fans with two different fuses? It was a surprise to me (and I think a surprise to my mechanic)! Thanks again!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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