dinocarsfast

I have a 2015 connect and I also couldn't find any line to tap into, I think mostly because the fuel pump is in the tank or something so I ended up getting one of these and drilling a hole in the gas tank. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Pick-Up-Standpipe-600-mm-60-cm-for-EBERSPACHER-WEBASTO-251226895000/230954252956?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Using this I also have the advantage of not being able to run out of fuel from the webasto usage because the pickup is a few inches from the bottom of the tank.

If the draw is 3 milli amps then yeah you probably dont have a parasitic draw. How did you perform this test? Dont overlook a bad battery, whats the voltage 20 minutes after you shut the engine off? A dead or shorted cell sometimes have you thinking the battery is ok but it will never start after sitting a few minutes

I have a dometic CFX28 and my house battery is about 90 ah that charges from the alternator so no solar charging and now in the colder weather I can leave it at the airport during the week and it will only lose 20-30% Im pretty happy with my setup even without LiFePo4

I think you should do some more research because from what I have found this is simply not true. otherwise you plan sounds very similar to my van, good luck with it

Any of the plates for a full size transit or promaster will work because you will have to cut it up and weld it in anyway. On a full size van the seat unbolts from a frame that lifts it off the floor and you bolt the swivel between these two things. On the transit connect the seat frame bolts to the floor so if you want want to put a spinner in you will need to cut it up and put it where you want.

2015

I did it two years ago and probably dont still have the pictures but the biggest mistake that I made was the swivel that I bought was from a generic boat application and did not have a hole through the middle of the bolt so that I could run wires through it because this is the only reasonable way to avoid getting the airbag system wires cut when turning(wires for the seat occupancy sensor and buckle). I had to then make a new center pin on a lathe and weld the two pieces together. After that it was pretty easy the steps were; 1, Take the seat out 2, Temporarily weld the legs together so that the distances didnt change in the next step and so that it would all fit back to the van 3, Cut the legs off where I wanted the spinner to be 4, decide where to put the fulcrum of the spinner so that everything wold work then weld it back together with the swivel in place. It took a good weekend of work and $600 would probably be a pretty good price for someone to do that much custom work. The seat sliding rail has a sensor for when the seat is in the full forward position to deactivate the airbag, I thought about using this to deactivate the airbag if the seat is not facing forward but I never implemented this because I never really had time, but its an option. If you dont have a good way to reset the airbag light dont forget to disconnect the battery before you remove the seat.

I am in Wisconsin, but cutting the receiver off would be a good option too if you didnt mind the extra weight

I just installed a factory hitch yesterday, the plastic bumper comes off easy. Remove the screws that you already did then start pulling the bumper off from the front near the wheels, all the clips will pop off. Also if you need factory beam that will replace the hitch that is now under the bumper I have it for now until I take all my scrap metal to the scrap yard

I did this about 2 years ago and it has been working well. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/-21ydY_MM6A" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> not sure if I was able to embed this video correctly but here is a direct link to the video also https://youtu.be/-21ydY_MM6A

I did it on mine also, I didnt need to cut or modify the center console but I do need to open the door to spin the seat. I then have it facing a sink and stove that is also the platform for the bed. I dont have any pictures though.

I think it would be fine but it would probably depend on things like like how you use the system, will you drain the battery fully down or is it only going to be topping it off, do you live in a hot area. But if you burn the alternator out because its to high of a load you can always put a higher capacity alternator in.

Now Im thinking you meant to connect the vehicle charging system to the ACR and then directly to the house battery, this would have worked but I didnt think it would be good enough for me because of the voltage drop in the lines to the house battery and the loss of charge capacity because of the lower voltage. I connected the two batteries through a charger so that it could step up the voltage so that it would fully charge. I also used a Lead Acid battery for my house battery. Back to the original post, I think the MPPT charger that was in the link would be a great option it is a "multi-Input charger" so you can connect the charger directly to the vehicle battery or alternator and it will not discharge the vehicle battery when the engine is not running so no need for a voltage sensing relay since it has an internal voltage sensing relay

I dont have a solar panel, only charging from the alternator, and I thought it would work the way that you describe also but when the engine is off the charger did not allow the house battery voltage to get through to the voltage sensing relay. So then I found that the voltage sensing relay would not close when the engine was on because it did not sense a voltage on the house battery side, maybe some sort of safety feature. IDK if this is the situation with all solar chargers not allowing voltage to the voltage sensing relay side or if having a solar panel connected will change the situation even when their is no sun but I had to get a relay and an on-delay-timer and my setup works

100ah lithium should be more than enough for small loads like lights, a power vent and a laptop. With a solar panel you will probably have enough power to keep it charged. But if you do decide to charge from the alternator dont worry about the alternator capacity to much because if the lithium battery draws to much it will just take what it cant get from the vehicle battery and eventually charge everything to full anyway. Just make sure you use adequate cable, you will need 6 or 4 awg wire to carry the current It might be a better option it get a laptop charger that can be powered from 12vdc that way you wont have to deal with the losses of an inverter, also get a battery powered shaver that you can recharge occasionally because depending on what type of shaver you might need a true sine wave inverter for it to work anyway.

A voltage sensing relay wont work with a MPPT charger, at least it didnt when I connected it with my setup because the charger did not show any voltage at the at the relay on the house side of the relay so the voltage sensing relay never turned on. I had a Blue Sea Systems ACR and Bogart Engineering charger and battery monitor. I ended up using a 60 or 100 amp relay with an on delay timer set to a minute or two connected to an ignition on signal

You dont get a click from the relay? Sounds like that is the problem, test the voltage at the coil side if that switches from low to high when you pull or push the stalk on the steering wheel. Also maybe get an alligator clip or flat spade connectors on both sides of a jumper wire and take the relay out and jump the contact side of the relay to see if the lights will turn on.

What happens when you turn the high beams on? do the low beams go out? Do you have a wiring diagram? If so test for voltage at the at the bulbs and trace the voltage back to the fuse and find the last place that has voltage

I welded in a swivel mechanism into my camper conversion. Mostly to access the sink and stove that I put behind the passengers seat. Its definitely possible and not as convenient as with a full size transit because I have to open the passenger door to rotate the seat but it can be done with a little welding.

Wait you have a 2011, I'm not sure if this is the right procedure for 1st gen.

if you just need to replace a sensor its easy, use a 2x4 lever system to break the bead or get a harbor freight bead break tool then replace the sensor. To initialize the sensors follow the procedure; 1) Make sure all tires are inflated to the vehicle’s recommended inflation pressures (found in the owner’s manual on the door placard). 2) Turn the ignition switch to OFF then press and release the brake pedal. 3) Turn the ignition switch from OFF to RUN (engine OFF) 3 times, ending in the RUN position. Do this within 10 seconds. 4) Press and release the brake pedal. 5) Turn the ignition switch back to OFF. 6) Turn the ignition switch from OFF to RUN (engine OFF) 3 times, ending in the RUN position. Do this within 10 seconds. 7) The horn should sound letting you know the vehicle has entered into TPMS relearn mode. ? Place the top of the TPMS triggering tool against the sidewall of the driver’s side front tire in the location of the valve stem. Press the left button, wait until the horn sounds, then press the right button to turn the tool off. 9.) Once the horn sounds, move on to the passenger side front tire and repeat the process. Each tire should only take 30 seconds or less. 10) After the passenger side front tire has been learned, continue on to the passenger side rear tire and finishing with the driver’s side rear tire. 11) You may now turn the ignition to OFF. If the horn does not sound, the sensors were learned successfully. If the horn sounds twice, then the process must be repeated because there was a malfunction. If you dont have the TPMS triggering tool people say you can trigger each wheel by letting air out but I just bought the tool, its like $30 or something. I hope this helps

Did something happen to your oil? The turbo may have seized then the engine because of lack of pressure or it was diluted down with solvents and it lost its lubricating ability

I would check where the cable connects to the transmission. It might have some length adjustment there, and it sounds like the shifter handle doesnt have enough travel to get all the way to S

It looks like I wont be replacing this cluster yet, the ebay seller sent me this today; I went to pull your speedometer, and unfortunately mine was damaged and no longer usable. I checked to see if we had any replacements, but to no avail. I do apologize for the inconvenience, and will refund you promptly. If you need anything else in the future, I would be happy to help, as well as give you 10% off your next purchase with us. Thank you, Liz I think that means they couldnt figure out how to remove and and ended up breaking it

LOL I think he means to spray soapy water or some sort of foam to find leaks