Dandytc

On my key fob the "trunk unlock" button will unlock the trunk when all doors are locked, but it will not release the latch as one might expect; I still have to walk behind the car and unlatch the traditional way. The other doors will remain locked. The trunk will be locked again when closed, so it only works once. Doesn't yours even do that?

I agree with Don. Keep in mind that using an oil grade different from the Ford recommendations may void your warranty in case of future claim, whether related to oil grades or not. In a situation where I think that my oil is "overworked", I would simply do more frequent oil (and filter) changes.

I doubt that it would do much good. As a matter of fact, the manual says that it may be beneficial to turn Traction Control off, when stuck in mud or snow. The big surprise for me was how the computer reacted and needed a reset.

Last night, I got stuck in a few inches of snow on a parking lot, due to an aborted start when someone else started behind me, and not having snow tires installed, because the unusual amount of snow here has caused snow tires to become a rare commodity. Anyway, I started rocking my tc back and forth to try and get it out of there, tires spinning and traction control engaging on and off, when all of a sudden, the instrument cluster came alive: most indicator lamps came on, as well as a message on the display. Just then, 2 nice guys who were about to leave, came over and gave me a little push that got me out of the ruts, and I was on my way (Thanks again guys). The thing was, the instrument cluster was still lit up with the brake, traction control, abs, and air bag indicator, there was still a message about hill start assist not being available, and the speedometer didn't work. I drove home like that, as I wasn't completely sure that turning the engine off to try and reset the computer would work, and I didn't want to be stuck there. Once I got home, I turned the engine off, waited a few seconds, and restarted the engine. The only indicator lamp that was still on was the abs. I asked my friend the mechanic about it, and he said to drive the car for 100 or so feet, so that all 4 abs sensors can be detected, and sure enough, that cleared it up. Now, if this happens to you, you'll know how to fix it, or maybe you are more tech savvy than me, and you knew already.

G Money, the thread below might be of interest to you, if not too late. Besides the video posted, make sure to read the posts (including mine) that talk about wiring to the rear fuse box. Good Luck.

I have had U-Haul hitches on two of my previous vehicles, one of which was installed by them, and was quite happy with their product and labour. For my TC, I called them up for a quote, but couldn't easily find a picture of their hitch, so, since I don't like buying a cat in a bag, I bought a Curt hitch. Super easy to install.

Pretty fancy information display, compared to the 2015 model. It's nice to be able to see everything without scrolling down too much.

Your answer may be here, unless you are in the EU.

You are right, it is not. However, as Beta Don points out, it is a matter of perception, mostly if you are used to driving smaller cars. My previous ride was a Focus wagon, and although the TC is only marginally wider, and a foot longer, it feels HUGE. So much so that so far, my wife has resisted driving "the bus". The wider turning radius has a lot to do with it: an extra 6 feet added to the curb to curb is substantial enough. That feeling would be exacerbated for someone going from a car to a van, losing the visibility through the rear windows, having to get used to relying on mirrors and camera and maybe sensors to maneuver, rather than look over their shoulder. Another factor is the feel of the vehicle when starting or accelerating. The TC feels more like a truck than a car, but again, it has to do with what you are used to driving. The adaptation is likely easier if you drove another van or pickup before. That being said, I love my TC so far, and I know I will only get more confident with it.

On the 2017 models, the block heater is an option in Canada that will set you back Can$100 (about US$75). In California, the same option is US$35. This kind of deal looks a lot like the roof rail deal; very expensive unless it comes installed from the factory.

When I first got my TC, I couldn't find a cord for the block heater, and ended up thinking that there was none. After reading recent posts, I checked my owner's manual, and it doesn't say "If equipped" under the "Engine block heater" title page 117, so I took another look, and sure enough, there it was. The reason I didn't find it previously, is because I was looking for a cord that looked like the one in my previous vehicle (Ford Focus wagon), which was a flat 3 conductor cord with a plug at the end, much like a regular household HD cord. The cord on the TC is wrapped with corrugated loom, and the plug is round. The whole thing was hiding under another loom to the right of the air filter. I would think that a block heater might be standard in colder regions in the US as well. I hope the pics will help some of you find theirs.

Same thing on my 2015 XLT LWB wagon: one small compartment under the front passenger seat, accessible from the rear.

Yes, I had found that video on YouTube before discovering this forum.

I just installed a Curt hitch and wiring kit (56218) on my recently purchased 2015 TC XLT wagon hatchback. Thanks to Fifty150 for posting the videos from etrailer.com The hitch was so easy to install, I thought I made a mistake . The wiring kit is beautifully designed, but a little more challenging to install due to the difficulty to access the connectors. I ended up removing the seat belt rewinder on the passenger side, to get better access. To power up the module, I ran the power line under the carpet alongside the green wire to the passenger side and hooked up to the fuse box in the cargo area. My manual says that F26 (not used) is 40A and for accessories, trailer tow module, so I connected to it with a spade connector and the 10A fuse holder supplied. It appears to work, but I have not yet tried my trailer with it. Has anybody tried this route? Chuck S, is this what you are referring to, what the Cequent guys did?

I just bought a 2015 TC LWB wagon with only 8k kms on it. This forum has been most helpful in helping me make the final decision about buying it, as well as installing a trailer hitch and wiring. I have removed the 3rd row of seats to make room for cargo, and will later build some sort of organizer for the cargo area. I am also planning on installing a roof rack.