Don Ridley
-
Posts
1,015 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
94
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Don Ridley
-
Don,
I was reading your post about adding a separate fuse block. I have been looking for the connectors that will plug into the back of the OEM fuse block (mfg by Lear) and I think you have something that works/fits. In the photo of the added fuse block you purchased from Waytek (Delphi) that are crimp connectors that plug into the added fuse block body. I think these connectors will fit into the back of the Lear OEM fuse block (2.8 mm format or series 280 connectors). Can you try one on a empty slot?
I have ordered some Lear connectors on eBay. It is a tray of assorted connectors including several that appear to fit the fuse block in the TC. It would be nice to find an actual source for the connectors. Like you I am financially invested in this project. I am determined to tap directly into that OEM fuse block!
Thanks,
Don Ridley
- Show previous comments 3 more
-
Good news, success! But I was wrong about the 771016 type connectors. They are too large. But the connector kit I ordered on eBay had the right ones: 1-968857-3 and 1-968859-3.I tested one and it fits perfectly. These numbers don't match anything on the Lear document but I think it is the MAK28 terminal. I have about 20 ea for small gauge wire and 20 ea for larger gauge wire. The kit is assembled by Kent-Moore and is part of a huge terminal kit for GM mechanics ($1000+ for the entire set). The Lear terminals are Tray 7. If you want to source the connectors you can call 1-800-GM TOOLS (as shown on the kit) and ask for the numbers listed above. Or it may be easier to buy the kit on eBay for about $40. Just make sure you get Tray 7.
I noticed the aux fuse box has different empty fuse slots. Some have dual contacts on the power side and appear to be for higher amperage fuses and circuits.
I can't attach any more files. Send me an email: dondumaine@surewest.net if you want info on the Kent-Moore terminal kit.
-
I found those part numbers over at Mouser.com a company I bought components from before when I was building DIY computer cables and LED flashlights a few years ago. The 57s have a 100 minimum at $0.26 each, but the 59s are available as singles for $0.46, although the price drops to $0.35 at 100 qty.
-
-
Window Tint
Don Ridley replied to Thelegend's topic in Glass, Lenses, Lights, Mirrors, Window Tint & Wipers
I recently had the front windows tinted at a shop. I researched window tint materials and not all products are equal. The cheaper products will turn blue-ish over time. The more expensive (by 3M and others) ones will not. I chose the most expensive tint, 3M Crystalline series: http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1161043O/3m-automotive-window-film-crystalline-series-brochure.pdf This tint is designed to reduce the IR radiation (heat) without having to be dark. The front windows have CR70 and are barely darker than stock, but the tint supposedly reduces the total solar energy by 50%. The tint is expensive...around $100+(not including labor) just for the front windows. Hopefully this keeps the CHP off my back. -
I ordered a 2016 TC, short wheel base 1.6L wagon in late April. It arrived in California in early August. I am very happy with the 1.6L turbo engine. I had driven the 2.5L version and it was OK, but the turbo generates more torque at lower rpm and is more fun to drive. I ordered most of the options except for leather seats, SYNC and parking assist. My only regret is I bought the Quicklear windshield . This windshield has very fine heater wires that are almost invisible, but they diffract light at night and bug me. It is overkill for California weather and I may replace the windshield with a normal one. I have lots of projects and upgrades planned and will post them as they occur. So far the van is exactly what I wanted.
