Fifty150

There are many choices of oil weight and brand. The current owners manual calls for 5W-20 and 0W-20 as a cold weather alternative. Brand preference has already been beaten to death. Plenty of forums and discussion threads. We can discuss that if anyone wants to. We can agree that oil, is oil. We can also agree that different manufacturers have proprietary blends and additive packages which make each formulation unique. Where the opinions differ is why there are over 31 "flavors" of oil whenever we walk into a store. And for whatever reason, some people "fall" for something, and develop a loyalty. Some people believe that their oil choice is ideal for almost every application. Multi-level marketing has created a cult like following to a specific brand. On another thread on this forum, several members wrote about being in -30F, and how they are planning on switching to 5W-30. It got me thinking. While I don't live in that climate, I thought about it. Going from 20 weight to 30 weight is a higher viscosity and many people believe that a higher viscosity oil will provide better engine protection. A popular opinion is that 20 weight oil is only specified by the manufacturers because it is suppose to yield more miles per gallon. There is also the belief that today's engines are engineered to different tolerances, 20 weight oil is correct, and that a thicker oil may not properly lubricate as needed. The 5W number & 0W number refer more to start up in cold weather. I recall as a yute, 10W-30 and 10W-40 was the norm, and people even used 20W-50 in old cars. Old car, old engine, burns oil, leaks oil; thicker oil, less rattle. Not exactly scientific. Now that we are out of the dinosaur days, nobody uses 10W oil in small cars anymore. Have any of you guys in cold weather climates considered the 0W grade? 0W-20 as specified in the owners manual. Or even 0W-30 since you plan on using 30 weight in a 5W-30? I saw this old video on youtube, which even though it's old, helps to illustrate the difference in the "w rating" number for cold weather conditions. It would be interesting to hear your choices of what oil you use, and why.

My truck started and drove fine until I stopped driving it every day. Then when I went to drive it once a month, or every 6 weeks, I needed a jump start. I probably could have gone right back to driving it every day, and the alternator would have charged it right back.

The OEM Motorcraft battery in my F-150 lasted 10 years. It could have probably lasted longer.

Being completely new, most of us own an older model, with a different transmission. Any input is simply guessing. The best thing to do is report this condition to a dealer.

The Transit Connect's ATF flows out to a cooler bypass valve which is open to allow ATF to bypass the cooler and return to the transmission. When the transmission reaches the correct temperature, the valve closes, which allows the transmission fluid to flow to the oil-to-water heat exchanger. We know that OEM thermostats are set to open at 195F. I have read that the Ford cooler bypass valve closes at 185F. Derale has a similar aftermarket valve which closes at 180F. This feature prevents overcooling the transmission, as ATF will not begin to cool effectively until the valve closes. At the heat exchanger, coolant comes from the overflow tank, then flows to the lower radiator hose and heater core. At the connections, there are electrically controlled valves, which are opened and closed by signal from the car's computer. If the ATF temperature read by the computer is at the correct temperature, the valves open, allowing for coolant to carry heat away from the heat exchanger. A more complex system to regulate and maintain transmission temperature than the old days where there was just an open loop of ATF flow through the cooling and return lines. I agree. If the transmission is operating between 225F - 250F, it's time to address auxiliary cooling. Also time to consider why the temperature is high. Going uphill causes temperatures to climb. Not much you can do, except to choose a different route. Some don't have that option. If you are overloading the transmission, you may want to consider that you are carrying and/or towing too much weight. Obviously, we all can't tow & haul with a larger truck, as a lot of people do not have the option. For some, this is the only vehicle that they have, so there really isn't a bigger truck available. The possibility exist that you have other faults, like a transmission pump which isn't performing at optimal efficiency, or a failure within the cooling system. The cooler bypass valve may be stuck open. The electrically controlled coolant valves may have failed. The cooling line, return line, and/or the heat exchanger may be clogged. The real problem is that the transmission is working harder than designed, you add extra cooling to lower the temperature, which helps with maintaining the longevity of the fluid, but the transmission is still overworked. So even with extra cooling, the extra wear on the transmission will decrease the longevity of the transmission. We have not, as yet, seen on this forum where any forum members are reporting temperatures up to 250F. My suspicion is that if the Transit Connect is not overloaded, the OEM cooling system is sufficient. In most cases, an auxiliary cooler is not needed. It's not any easier, or harder, than other cars. The cooler would be inline after the heat exchanger, and before the cooler bypass valve. Same theory. Extra cooling after the OEM heat exchanger, in case the fluid is so high in temperature that the heat exchanger is not sufficient. The Transit Connect return lines are metal tubes. Cut the metal tube. Add plumbing to auxiliary cooler. You or your transmission shop will decide whether to install transmission hose, or fabricate a system of custom bent pipes. Use appropriate fittings at the connection points. The easiest route is to cut the metal tube, flare it, slip on transmission hoses, and use hose clamps. Find suitable location for cooler, and choose a cooler with correct dimensions to fit. Not any easier or harder than it used to be. Same process as it used to be. At his point, I just don't see the need to add extra cooling. It appears as if the OEM cooling system is working as designed. Forum members are not reporting ATF temperatures in excess of 225F. Sure, somewhere along the way, someone will see an occasional spike, but it hasn't been reported here yet. The occasional high temperature really isn't a big deal. As long as the cooling system brings the temperature back down. The real concern is consistently operating at high temperatures. If someone reports that every day, the transmission temperature goes up to 250F, and stays in that range all day as they drive around for hours, then there is a concern.

I'm under the impression that the new engine and transmission combination is engineered for fuel efficiency. I'm not sure of how that will work for heavy loads, towing, and steep grades. In the back of my mind, I also wonder about durability. With every change, you ask if the new model is going to be better. Only time, with real world usage, will tell.

Alright. Roll call. Anybody in Utah to help DanDweller?

Well you can tell, by the way I use my walker, I'm a woman's man, no time to talk.

Unless, of course, you look at it from another perspective. 2014-2018 gave the engineers enough insight into what works and doesn't work. So 2019 model features the best of the 2nd generation, in addition to all of the fixes. 2019 engine and transmission combination probably upgrades to correct where 1st & 2nd generation were deficient. Power. Fuel economy. Maintenance and mechanical failures. Same way the 77 Mustang 2 got a T-top roof. Which opened the doors to the mid 77-78 King Cobra with a snake painted on the hood. Ford's answer to the Firebird painted on the hood. Disco was King. Good times.

Eddy Kilowatt posted a good exploded view of the cooling system. There appear to be 2 hoses in the Degas bottle. I hope the diagram helps you figure out which hose goes where, and where those bubbles may be returning from.

2019 has new engine and transmission. For some people, the first year that anything comes out is a "no-no". That's like the actual filed trial. Now they can figure out what needs to be corrected with Technical Service Bulletins and Recalls. So you may get something loaded with issues that will not be corrected for years down the line.

Absolutely.

Your build looks like it's coming along just fine. I've got the feeling that you will be a contributing member. The photo looks like you're already ahead of the game. You will surely be able to help others on the forum, and share tips & tricks. It's just me, but I don't like scissor jacks. If I were planning a road trip of any sort, I would want something better than the OEM scissor jack & tire tool kit. I've also found, at least for myself, that a 1/2" drive breaker bar provides much better leverage for taking off the lug nuts. But I get it. Not everyone wants to invest in a floor jack, or carry it around. That's why people have auto club memberships. So that you can simply call for help.

Crutchfield has some information about choosing speaker wire. Thick wire (12 or 14 gauge) is recommended for long wire runs, high power applications, and low-impedance speakers (4 or 6 ohms). For relatively short runs (less than 50 feet) to 8 ohm speakers, 16 gauge wire will usually do just fine. Speaker Wire: How to Choose the Right Gauge and Type https://www.crutchfield.com › ISEO-rgbtcspd › learn › learningcenter › home

Let us know when those get heavy too.

Private garage, even if you know and trust the mechanic, may not have access to all of the service bulletins, recalls, have the most current training for that make & model, probably won't have vehicle specific computer diagnostic equipment, and most likely does not specialize in the car you want inspected. On the other hand, you don't know or trust the people at the dealership.

drh14, What other vehicles did you compare the Transit Connect to? How did you rule out other vehicles? Just curious as to how you narrowed it down. My own purchase was based on seating capacity and pricing. And that the seats fold down for cargo. I thought of it as a car. No car offered that much seating and cubic footage. Especially in comparison to the price. Plus, cars in this price range are small, cramped, and none of them are luxury models either. In my mind, driving a Transit Connect was better than a Corolla or a Civic.

Sometimes it is just odds. @ 50 or faster, tires are spinning faster and kicking up more debris. Those objects also strike harder. I drive over 1000 miles a week in my company car. I get a new windshield 1 - 3 times a year. Accounting noticed 3 windshields in a year. I can also drive all year without a rock strike. In my Transit Connect, I have had 3 or 4 with 1 needing filler. My truck is an 07, with original windshield. I had a Wrangler that got rock chips every few months.

Thanks for the information. Electronic controlled valves opened and closed by the PCM is certainly a new piece of technology. This van is certainly a lot more sophisticated than how car's used to be built. This is a step forward towards electronics controlling more in the cooling system. We may see, in the cars of the future, an electronic valve, replacing the traditional mechanical, spring loaded thermostat. Or is that already a feature on other cars? It's good that you have access to the service manual, and that you are willing to post it.

Tape the windshield like they do in Hong Kong to prepare windows for a typhoon. Window tint film works also.

There you have it. Compared to my F-150, the Transit Connect is like driving a Smart Car. But if you drive small cars, a van like the Transit Connect could be like driving a truck. As a commercial vehicle, the Transit Connect turns and handles better than any 1/2 ton or larger pickup truck, or full size van - Econoline, Express, Ram, Transit, Sprinter, et cetera.

Okay. My windshield was struck by roadway debris. Rocks. Pebbles. Gravel. From the driver's seat, I actually saw the object fly up and hit the windshield. I have seen a lot of debris strike the windshield while driving. Only a few pieces actually caused damage. Damage which was repaired by filling. Are we on the same page? Are you guys talking about the windshield damaged by objects on the road bouncing up and hitting the windshield? Or is there another factor to your windshield damage.? Do you think it has to do with the design of the van aerodynamics, the angle of the windshield, quality of the autoglass?

Adding a cooler to any modern vehicle isn't more difficult or complicated. You still have to find a suitable location for your cooler, drill holes, and mount. The return line still needs to be spliced. You still have to route the new transmission lines in a way that it doesn't interfere with anything else or get caught in a moving part. The cooler bypass valve will prevent ATF from going to the cooling system until the transmission reaches the appropriate temperature regulated by the bypass valve. Any extra coolers added inline after the OEM heat exchanger will not effect the transmission warming up. Essentially, the ATF will warm up to 190 F before the bypass valve closes, and fluid flows through the cooling system. If the cooling system, with an extra cooler, reduces the ATF to under 190, the valve will open again, allowing the ATF to simply bypass the cooler. I don't think you can "overcool" the transmission. No chance that an auxiliary cooler can drop your transmission operating temperature to an unacceptable level.

Angry Red Bird would have advised you to disconnect the battery, and that would have fixed whatever you had wrong.

The 1st week I owned mine, I got a big divot. More followed. That is just the luck of the draw......maybe. Or it could be the angle of the windshield. Glass repair shops can fill the rock chips. Repair shops use a fill material which is suppose to be better than what you can buy over the counter. Any auto repair shop can sell you a very expensive little tube of repair material.