Fifty150

It looks like there is a WiFi camera that will transmit the image to your phone. The installation looks simple. Camera connects to transmitter, which is then connected to reverse lamp wires to power on when you are in reverse. With phone mounted on dashboard, image will appear on phone screen.

https://www.yahoo.com/news/blogs/motoramic/fight-repairs-car-warranty-ends-150806354.html How to fight for repairs after your car’s warranty ends Contributor May 14, 2013 Most everyone has heard these words, “I’m sorry but you’ll have to pay for this repair because your car is out of the manufacturer’s warranty." What should you do say or do? Obviously, we’re not talking about cars that are “way out” of warranty. A 10-year old vehicle with 200,000 miles that had a three year or 36,000-mile warranty will not be repaired free by your dealer or manufacturer. However, for cars those that are “close” to being within the warranty time and mileage, there is a good chance that you can persuade the dealer/manufacturer to pay at least a portion of the cost of repair. This article is designed to tell you how best to accomplish this. The easiest way to have your car repaired at no cost is if you initially brought the vehicle in for a problem while it was still under warranty, the dealer “attempted” to fix it, but did not. When the problem resurfaces, as long as you have in writing and on the record that this happened, you should have no problem getting your car repaired at no charge. To the lesser degree that your car is out of warranty, the greater is your chance that the factory authorizes a “goodwill” repair. Goodwill is what they call all repairs made at no charge when the car is out of warranty. If your car is only five miles out of warranty, this should be very easy to have approved. The further out of warranty, the more difficult this is, and the less likely that you will have 100 percent of the cost paid by the manufacturer. For example, a car that’s 3,000 miles out of a 36,000 mile warranty may be granted just 50 percent of the cost of the repair under goodwill. It’s important to understand that the dealer often has no say in whether an out of warranty car can be repaired under goodwill. A good dealer should support your request for goodwill because he gets paid by the manufacturer for doing the repair and this makes his customer happy. A bad dealer might not support your goodwill request because he would like to charge you more for the repair than the warranty will allow. A dealer can charge you anything he wants for parts and labor, but the factory allows him only his approved warranty labor rate, markup on parts, and time to complete the repair. If a dealer is reluctant to support your request for goodwill, be sure to take your request all the way to top. Take it to the service manager, then to the general manager, and then to the owner. If the dealer won’t support you, try taking it to another dealer who will. It’s very important that you have the support of the dealer when you take your request to the manufacturer. Without it, it’s highly unlikely you will get help. Some dealers are granted the authority to make goodwill adjustments directly as well as making decisions as to whether a repair should be covered under warranty. This can be good and bad. As I said earlier, a dealer can have an ulterior motive for not wanting to repair your car under warranty…he can make more money if he makes you pay. A dealer who is authorized to make warranty/goodwill decisions is so authorized because he has kept his warranty and goodwill costs low. This is bad for the customer if the way he has kept them low is by denying legitimate claims to make himself look good in the eyes of the factory and to avoid a warranty audit. To some service managers, it’s more important to be popular with the factory than with the dealer he works for. You want a service manager who works for a good dealer and whose loyalty is with that dealer who will be for his customers. Manufacturers and dealers will favor those customers who have bought cars from them and had their cars serviced with them. The dealer/manufacturer has your entire sales and service history on their computer. If you have bought two or more cars of this make and had them serviced regularly by the dealers of that make, they will “stretch” on the warranty coverage and goodwill. When asking for repairs for your car that is out of warranty, be courteous, factual, and as brief as possible. Never threaten to take your business away, sue, or call the media. Never raise your voice or curse. Dealership and factory employees are just like you — they tend to respond more positively to someone who is courteous and rational. You should put your request in writing, email or regular mail. If things are moving too slowly, it’s a good idea to call the factory 800 customer assistance number. Your request will be referred back to the dealer, but it’s good to be on record with the factory. When encountering difficulties, search the Internet for your repair problem; you can often find chat rooms and other sources of information about people who have the same problem. You will be amazed at the number of people who have had the same problem. Sometimes even your dealer may not be aware that this repair is common among owners of the year, make and model. Knowing this gives you a strong psychological advantage. When you search for your repair problem, you may find out that the manufacturer has issued a notice to their dealers about this problem. This kind of notice is referred to as TSB or technical service bulletin. Sometime s TSB will authorize the dealer to repair the car under warranty but only if the customer asks! You may even learn that this repair is covered under a recall campaign, but the dealer should have known that when he checked your VIN in his computer. The bottom line is don’t just take “no” for an answer. Go through the steps that I’ve covered above and you should have a pretty good chance of getting at least some of your repair paid for by the manufacturer. Earl Stewart is a Toyota dealer in North Palm Beach, Fla., author of "Confessions of a Recovering Car Dealer" and a radio host. This piece was republished from his blog with permission. Photos: AldenJewell, nateOne via Flickr

https://images.etrailer.com/static/images/video/install-trailer-hitch-2015-ford-transit-connect-c12123.webm

https://images.etrailer.com/static/images/video/install-trailer-hitch-2015-ford-transit-connect-c12123.webm Hope that helps.

I wonder if I should tear my dash open just to see......

I am only running the free version of Torque, but it works. I'm currently using an inexpensive Acer Iconia 8, mounted with the ProClip. The tablet is also my GPS unit. I'm using the MapFactor app. It has been okay. Just research your tablet computer and apps carefully. Some tablets and/or apps need an internet signal or cell tower signal in order for them to work. You don't want to have to purchase an additional data plan, or use up data from your phone, if you don't have to. And consider what happens when you drive through where there is no cell phone reception, or when you're not within range of a cell tower. I'm doing just fine driving around in The City. Your mileage may vary.

Ask your dealership about an "after warranty adjustment".

I thought Tommy Chong & Rae Dawn Chong were Chinese.

And what is with that battery box configuration under the hood? I can already see how much of a pain it's going to be when it's time to change the battery. I suppose if I did things the old fashion way, simply wire my aftermarket accessories to the battery terminals and use a system of circuit breakers, inline fuses, relays, and switches, I could bolt everything right onto the top of the battery box cover. Has anyone added off-road lights instead of trying to mod the OEM lighting system? Modern LED lightbars can probably supply a better lightsource than any drop-in lamp or projector module.

Ah, yes. just like The 70's. Build a "Shaggin' Wagon". A Love Machine. Wood paneling, 6X9 speakers, and a disco ball. Far out. All that I can say on that matter is that my tinted windows have already paid for themselves. Fold down the 3 seats in the second row, and you've got quite the play space.

With the Econoline vans, the cargo hold was always very hot & stuffy, and even at full blast, the air conditioning was never good enough to cool the back of the van from the vents in the front. I understood that being a cargo van, it was only engineered for the comfort of whomever is riding in the first row, since nobody is suppose to be riding in the back. I thought that with the Transit Connect, since it is smaller, that the front A/C vents would be sufficient for the entire inside of the van. It makes me want to cut into my roof. Perhaps install something ridiculous, like an A/C unit.

On my car, it's just a little push button in front of the shifter. It says, "TCS OFF". I guess with a base model, everything is simpler.

My "go to" solution when I'm at work, or climbing in and out of different trucks. Low tech, but extremely effective. Kind of makes you not want to mess with that Sync system, and just use the head unit to play tunes.

From the quick peek that I got under the hood, I am now sure that if I go the LED route, the dust covers have to go. Some models of LED are direct plug & play, while others require a lighting ballast or LED driver which also powers the cooling fan. Right behind the low beam, on both driver and passenger sides, towards the body of the van as it leads towards the hood hinge, there is a piece of metal with a hole that I could affix a cable tie to secure the LED driver if there is enough wiring. And it looks like load resistors will have to tap into the harness which carries all of the lighting control wiring into the headlight assembly. Now, the big question is how much I am willing to spend, to gamble on questionable results. Typically, with other vehicles, a quick look at the forums will provide a wealth of information and feedback. But it looks like with this forum, we will have to pioneer the mods and report back on what works and what doesn't work.

In the days of yore & yesteryear, prior to drop-in HID & LED kits, my buddies & I always got higher wattage lamps. Hella was the brand that we always went with. Nobody ever got caught, or had an issue. Of course, I would never recommend that anyone do something as outlandish as install an 80 watt lamp because the Department of Transportation specifies that you operate 55 watt lamps. Anything over 55 watts is labeled as "off road only". So remember that you should only install them once you're no longer on a public thoroughfare, and only use them on the farm, at the campground, or anywhere else where there just isn't any overhead municipal supplied illumination. Never forget to change them out and drive around all over town, and across the country, with illegal lighting.

You could simply extend the positive and negative wires to an aftermarket auxiliary light such as a LED daytime driving light or bolt on foglight. Or, simply unplug the lamp and tape off the connector. Nothing will happen. Just a lamp that isn't on. But I would take that opportunity to take advantage of extra powered and fused connectors that are already tied into your OEM switching. I recently plugged in some little LED lamps that I just happen to have leftover from another project (buddy's Honda Pilot).

I've grown into using the Haynes Manual over the years. Mainly because of allocated funding. It's cheap. I'm cheap. Bang for my buck. At the Haynes price point, I receive more return on investment. I've owned a Haynes Manual for every car and motorcycle I've owned. Haynes is not just good for cars and motorcycles.

I will just bump this old topic back to the top, since my vehicle did not come with a backup camera. Anyone else in the same boat? Or did everybody except for me, spend the extra bucks at the dealership level?

My brother in law and I are constantly having the discussion of LED vs stock halogen. The facts are there. When you plug a LED replacement bulb into a stock halogen housing, the reflectors do not work well enough with the LED light. The headlight housing was designed to "throw" the halogen light. Sure, everything in front of you is brighter with the LED, but the halogen goes farther down the road. If you get a LED spotlight or lightbar, your results will be significantly better. With that being said, I installed LED lamps in my truck, and I am satisfied with the results. However, your feelings may be different. Especially since LED in rain and snow is a lot different. I'm still debating whether I want to change the lights on the Transit Connect. Obviously, I was hoping that someone had already beat me to it, and that I could come on this forum and read their posts. I see that we have dust caps on the rear of the light housing unit. I get it. Older cars without dust caps tend to have more issues when it comes time to change the lamps. With any LED drop-in kit, I will need to run them without the dust caps. The dust caps, even if they fit, will interfere with the extra cooling that the LED lamps require. The other consideration would be what to do with the ballast. Ideally, you would want to mount the ballast and/or secure it so that it doesn't just bounce around. I may have to come up with a creative solution so that my ballast don't come loose and fall off. Then there is the question of the direction indicators. I may have to leave the front direction indicators in their OEM configuration. Either that, or slice into the OEM harness which connects to the entire headlight housing, and run really long wires to the load resistors because those should also be secured, and preferable to metal not plastic, since they get hot. I sure wish there was a Haynes Manual available.

I've seen that one. Wasn't sure on buying it. As you said, almost everything is secured with plastic. I thought the plastic tools might be better. I was afraid of a metal tool being too rough.

My original strategy was to install fuse taps.

https://smile.amazon.com/TE-CONNECTIVITY-AMP-1-968857-3-Contact/dp/B0167ZFHH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474949749&sr=8-1&keywords=1-968857-3 by TE Connectivity / AMP TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP 1-968857-3 Contact, MCP 2.8 Series, Socket, 17 AWG, 13 AWG, Crimp, Copper Nickel Silicon Available in multiple versions Be the first to review this item Price: $0.36 - $65.80 Product Specifications Brand Name TE Connectivity / AMP Part Number 1-968857-3 UNSPSC Code 32000000 See more product details Currently showing 1-5 of 5 ASIN Size Price In Stock Only All Currently showing 1-5 of 5 B0167ZFIGC 1 pack $0.36 + $2.49 Shipping See all buying options B0167ZFJEI 10 pack $6.58 + $6.99 Shipping See all buying options B0167ZFKC4 100 pack $65.80 + $6.99 Shipping See all buying options B0167ZFL1Y 5 pack $5.85 + $6.99 Shipping See all buying options B0167ZFM7C 50 pack $32.90 + $6.99 Shipping See all buying options

https://smile.amazon.com/Automotive-Connectors-MCP2-BU-KONT-piece/dp/B0137JUUQ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474949759&sr=8-1&keywords=1-968859-3 by TE Connectivity Automotive Connectors MCP2,8 BU-KONT EDS Available in multiple versions Be the first to review this item Price: $0.44 - $36.40 Product Specifications Brand Name TE Connectivity Part Number 1-968859-3 UNSPSC Code 26121600 See more product details Currently showing 1-5 of 5 ASIN Size Price In Stock Only All Currently showing 1-5 of 5 B0137JW1IE 1 pack $0.44 + $2.49 Shipping See all buying options B0137JXPOI 10 pack $4.45 + $2.49 Shipping See all buying options B0137JYSJ4 100 pack $35.36 + $2.49 Shipping See all buying options B0137JZ2TY 5 pack $2.23 + $2.49 Shipping See all buying options B0137K1M0G 50 pack $18.40 + $2.49 Shipping See all buying options

I see that the parts are available from Amazon.com