DapperVan

I just listed the BoostMax for sale in the marketplace section. Nothing wrong with it, I just decided not to install it. The K&N 57s-4000 works so damn well that I really don't desire any more power right now. If I did more freeway driving I'd probably install the BoostMax as top end is still lagging on my van, although I'm hoping a custom exhaust will help with that.

I bought the Rousch Yates JMS BoostMax ECU controller for my 2016 Transit Connect Wagon 1.6 Ecoboost and have decided not to install it. I am so pleased with my results from the K&N 57s-4000 kit that I don't really need anymore horsepower. The kit is unused, but I did open the box just to look at everything. The part number is ryp-bmx1.6. This is the exact one I bought on eBay for $289 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Roush-Yates-by-JMS-BoostMAX-Digital-Device-1-6-2-0-Ford-Ecoboost-/252498094259. I waited too long and they won't let me return it now so I'm willing to sell it for $200 + shipping to a forum member. If it's not sold here I'll offer it to the Escape and Focus guys. If you're not familiar with this thing here's the basics: It's a tuner that plugs into the MAP, TIP and pedal position sensors which increases boost pressure (up to +5 psi) along with maintaining the A/F ratio. There is a knob you can mount under the dash for on-the-fly adjustment of the boost. There is also an optional "87 octane chip" which replaces the knob (it basically puts the setting at 50% all the time). Claimed increase is 11 hp/20 ft-lbs with the 87 octane chip although I did see someone online saying they dynod +20hp to the wheels at 90% setting. This guy dropped 7/10ths of a second on his 1/4 miles time with the 87 octane setting http://www.imgrum.net/user/jmschip/849756481/1235183509146380785_849756481 so it certainly works. PM me if interested. I'm in no hurry to sell as I may end up changing my mind again and just installing it. It's pretty easy to install, plug-and-play with some wire routing.

To be honest I hadn't heard of the Turbo Transformer until you posted this. I just Googled it and the reviews are mixed. It looks like it does the same thing as the BoostMax, but with only 1 connection. That makes me a bit leary to be honest. The BoostMax is taking readings from multiple sensors and manipulating them to trick the ECU. The Turbo Transformer is also tricking the ECU, but without a direct reading from the necessary sensors it must be using some type of algorithm to fake the readings...which to me just opens up more opportunities for the ECU to freak out and put the van into limp mode. I'm already hesitant to install the BoostMax and will probably just hold onto it for a while for when I get really bored. I think I will be installing a custom exhaust next to help with the little 1.6 top end power. I'm really happy with the additional torque the K&N 57s-4000 gave me.

Well it took me the entire day, but I got the springs installed. Not an easy job on these vans. Results are great though. Excuse the dirty van. No time to install the BoostMax yet. Another weekend project. Getting to the firewall is not easy on these vans.

Hmm weird Wikipedia lists it as having the "Powershift" dual clutch transmission. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Transit_Connect So it's the F6-35, good to know! Edit: Easier to find if googled as 6F35

Yeah I quickly learned the transmissions are completely different. I mean I knew the ST was a manual and mine is a dual clutch auto, but I was hoping they shared the differential and it appears they do not. That Quaife would have been sweet! Does anyone know if the Transit uses the brake bias limited slip method like the ST does? I see that the Escape has it, but I can't find any documentation for the Transit Connect.

Yes I have the retro plates that read "VANTSTC". On the dark grey van the yellow really stands out, so I thought a tie-in somewhere would look nice. I used these same caliper covers on my wife's Fiesta ST and they look really nice. They're powder coated aluminum and besides cosmetic they really cut down on the brake dust. This van is my daily driver and does see some road trip time with the family, but my kids are really small right now, one is only 6 months. In about 2 years I'm going to buy a small 4WD RV for the real adventures so I'm OK with a lowered city van. I've had so many lowered and lifted vehicles over the years I've definitely grown accustomed to them. I'm strongly considering a custom exhaust. I have an exhaust guy I've used for 22 years who does great work. If I do decide to do that I will have him build a pretty quiet system. I don't really want a "ricer" type exhaust on this van, plus I won't tolerate any droning whatsoever on the family van. I only have this Sunday to work on the van so we'll see how far I get. The springs and caliper covers will be on for sure. I don't know if I'll have time to install the BoostMax system. It's not too difficult to install, but it does involve routing some cables through the firewall.

I just put on Yakima roof racks and the Yakima "windshield" which looks fantastic. I also just received my lowering springs from ModYourConnect in the UK. I'm installing those this weekend. It's a 2" drop so it's certainly a game changer. I already have 19" wheels so to finally get rid of that wheel gap will be great. I'm going to fit yellow caliper covers too. I think it will contrast my dark grey paint and black wheels nicely and also match my yellow/black license plates, but if I don't like them I can simply remove them. On top of this I am tinting my fog lamps yellow for a little rally style look. Eventually I will be pulling my headlights too to blackout the chrome. That's a whole project in itself however so probably not for a few weeks. And finally I bought a JMS Boostmax module which is an ECU piggyback which allows you to add boost to the 1.6 Ecooboost. Dyno results show only 11 hp gain on 87 octane, but I'll be running 91 octane with the booster set to 90%. Combined with the K&N 57s-4000 filter kit I'm hoping to see 20 hp, but more importantly more torque in the mid-range. I'm going to start researching a limited slip differential. I'm hoping that the one from the Focus ST will work, but really I haven't investigated anything yet. Currently traction is a problem with my van. The open differential is horrible in the rain and snow. I just spin the outside tire every turn.

Lifting a vehicle with front struts is pretty easy if you have access to a machine shop. You can make a strut spacer, but you'll probably be limited to about 1" of lift in the front. The spacer mounts on top of the factory strut and has studs that mount to the strut towers in the stock holes. The larger tires will contribute to the lift so maybe 1.5" total which isn't too shabby. Rears can be lifted with custom spacers too, but they need to be bolted in properly. Both of these methods change the geometry of the suspension. The front lift is limited by the CV axle angle limit. Go too far and you can break an axle. Most "leveling kits" work this way now. Leveling kits back in the day lowered the rear with leaf spring shackles...now everyone wants to lift the front.

Like the one shown in the video below. Fits 2014-2017 Ford Transit Connect (If you have the proper hooks). It's brand new never used. $60 + shipping. I'm in SoCal.

Bumping this thread before I pull my headlights and paint the internals. If anyone wants chrome headlights for free...this is your last chance. Better yet if you're local I will do the swap on your van free of charge.

How did you tune the ECU?

I installed a wiring harness a while back (Curt I believe) and I finally hooked a trailer up to it. My passenger side trailer running lights don't work. I checked the trailer wiring and it's good. What am I missing? I do recall it was very difficult to unplug the factory plugs on the passenger side. Nevermind. It was a bad connection at the plug .

I installed a wiring harness a while back (Curt I believe) and I finally hooked a trailer up to it. My passenger side trailer running lights don't work. I checked the trailer wiring and it's good. What am I missing? I do recall it was very difficult to unplug the factory plugs on the passenger side.

I installed a wiring harness a while back (Curt I believe) and I finally hooked a trailer up to it. My passenger side trailer running lights don't work. I checked the trailer wiring and it's good. What am I missing? I do recall it was very difficult to unplug the factory plugs on the passenger side.

Don't miss TrannyLover's other pro-tips! Including: - Remove unnecessary weight and drag to improve fuel economy. Just remove the rear passenger side wheel! - DIY window tinting using black duct tape! - Run a hose from your exhaust into your vehicle cabin to reduce pollution and waste! And remember kids, Tranny's need love too!

This is an awesome project, one that I would consider doing on my TC. I have the 1.6 model and also a Fiesta ST with the wonderful 6-speed. Going to the 2.0 with a stick would be a dream. I'm sure you are aware, but you can buy the 2.0 ST motor directly from Ford as a crate package. Includes wiring harness to. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-20T You'd still have to source a transmission, and when all is said and done you'd probably be close to the same price as a salvage ST anyways, but it's another option.

Just throwing in my 2 cents. I shopped TC's for about 3 months before finding the right one. I drove from LA to Vegas to buy it, meaning I had to pay the sales tax in cash back here in CA. Obviously I did a lot of homework before making that decision. To me, there is a minimum amount of torque I'm willing to have in a vehicle. I have sold too many cars because I thought I could live with them being gutless, but realized soon after that I just couldn't (2008 Suzuki SX4, 2013 Subaru Crosstrek XV come to mind) and sold them for a big loss. I wasn't going to make the same bad choice again with the TC. Even though, for the same price, I could get a LWB Titanium trim model with the rear captains chairs, in leather AND rear A/C AND locally...I still chose the stripper model SWB all the way out in Vegas because that's how much better the 1.6 turbo drives over the 2.5. I don't care if Ford only rates it 9 hp more. I'm telling you right now the engines are night and day. Truth be told I'd still like more power, especially at the top end, but I'm waiting for the aftermarket to handle that. I also have a Fiesta ST with the same engine and turbo, yet it has 20 more hp...only because of the ECU tune. As soon as someone makes an ECU tuner for the TC there's another 20 hp. 200 hp in this van will be a lot of fun.

I have a really annoying rattle coming from the top of my drivers side rear passenger door. It's more of a clicking sound and it's right above and behind my head when driving. I can make it stop if I push outward on the door while moving. Anyone else experience this and have a fix?

I've sat in the rear bucket seats and they're pretty nice, but the seats themselves are pretty narrow. They wanted to leave a large isle between the seats for rear access as mrtn said. They are not an option for the SWB. The LWB vans also get rear A/C while the SWB don't. 2015 model year wagons have black headlight reflectors, 2016 are chrome. 2017 adds Titanium trim to the SWB models and drops the 1.6 Ecoboost for all trims. Rear parking sensors become standard.

These are the tires I used: http://www.discounttirezone.com/OHTSU-FP8000-24545ZR19-98W_p_9492.html Load index is 99. 1653 lbs @ 51psi For my SWB XLT Wagon the curb weight is 3,630 lbs + max payload of 1,620 lbs = 5,250 lbs/4 = 1,313 lbs which leaves me 340 lbs of margin on each tire if I was fully loaded.

I don't recall offhand what offset my 19" rims are, but I've got 245's all around with no stretch and zero poke. Fitment looks factory to be honest. The nice thing is I'll have zero rub when I lower it. Check the rims thread I posted my specs there.

Wow that's really cool! I hope someone figures out the parts necessary for the conversion. Typically the reason why one country gets the cool features and the US doesn't is LAWYERS. They probably said, "well, someone in Florida is going to open this while driving and obstruct their view, let's take it away from everyone".

I'm confused. Is this a compartment on the dashboard or overhead? I know you said we don't have it in the US, but I'm just curious where it would be. We do get a very useless storage bin on the dashboard on the passenger side.

I have the same remote as you for my 2016 XLT SWB. This doesn't work on my van. Nothing happens.