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What great information, I have the XLT LWB wagon version and when the seats are folded flat the deck height is not a much higher than the Van platform and with the seats removed it would not be hard to get a platform with a lot of storage. I think that I would have no trouble overloading the Van with the amount of room that it has with the seats folded flat. The other thing I noticed is the Van has no head liner in the back and the Wagon has a great Headliner that is good for noise and provides good insulation for heat and cold. Thanks for all the great Info

Great Information . In any event the head will have to come off the engine. The next question is how many miles on the car because replacing the valves will cost a fair amount and doing a in car job will take twice as long as out of the car. If the Van is in good shape it may be worth a fully re manufactured engine . Pulling the head on a DOHC engine that has a Timing Chain is much more involved than a push rod or a rubber timing belt engine. Keep us posted

Thats exactly what is needed now jist have to find one Thanks Mrtn

Correct again Mustang. I have always been able to overload any vehicle I have owned regardless of the size

Sooner or later everybody ends up in the Break Down Lane for some reason or another .

When you get the Head off you need to measure the Cyl to determine if it was bored out or not. How many miles on this rig

A standard Pallet is 48 inches and they made it just big enough to say you can load a pallet. Its still about the money

The work van is 48.1 and the Passenger version is 47.3 so it will be close in the work van and in at an angle with the passenger van. Its a little Van not a big van. But you can bet they tried a sheet of Plywood in the work van

Just another reason to drive next to the Break Down Lane!

did you do a wet compression test? (shoot oil into the Cyl then check the Compression) if it goes up then the rings are bad, if it does not then the valves are bad. The Piston comes out through the top of the block after pulling the head. If the valves are bad the head has to come off any way Good luck

Nice Job. Looks like that will be my Rack solution Hope the Wind Surfing is great

For the 2014 it is just under 16 inches . I think the 2015 is the same.

Rubber Parts have been falling off car since the beginning try this

I looked at the pictures of Mustangs Atv set up . Very cool. The Fuel mileage would be better if the trailer was kept in the wind envelope of the van . It should be over 20 . When I get more time towing my set up I will report back

I bet the color of the covers on mine are the same as yours, Because your doors are very light and Mine are very black They do not list different covers or colors But if you go to fordparts.com you can see all the different diagrams.

No I think it is the other way Any way here are some Pictures of Mine Its warmed up to 29 here almost summer

Here are a couple of Pictures of mine Its warmed up to 29 Must be summer

Here is the parts picture for the rear doors with the panel part numbers

Its the engine block , it will hold the heat for several hours, in fact if you get back to the car in 15 or 20 minutes it could be higher the temp fo the engine increases after the circulation of the water stops. Its 15 degrees here right now briing it here and it will cool off pretty fast

In addition to the last post. Make sure the Flow control on the front is pointing to the feet . This will maximize the avalible heat

I did a test run with the car this morning . The starting temp outside was 10 degrees F. Set the front heater on fan speed 3 and temp control high, and the air flow valve pointing to the feet . The rear fan was on 2 and the temp control on high after a ten minute run the heat coming out of the B pillar vent was good I also found that the vent hook up on the passinger side under the seat might not be good . when it is on the duct correctly then there is good heat for the passingers feet. The Rear heater gets most of the warm air from the front heater supplied through the duct. Hope this helps some one.

As a follow up I did a test run with the car this morning . The starting temp outside was 10 degrees F. Set the front heater on fan speed 3 and temp control high . The rear fan was on 2 and the temp control on high after a ten minute run the heat coming out of the B pillar vent was good I also found that the vent hook up on the passinger side under the seat might be good . when it is on the duct correctly then there is good heat for the passingers feet. The Rear heater gets most of the warm air from the front heater supplied through the duct. Hope this helps some one.

The shaft seal is weeping so I checked and added a couple of Oz of oil to be sure

Make sure the Engine is running ! If it is not and the car sits for a while then you get a real mess.

Yes if it is up to operating Temp. If Cold about 3/8 or 1/2 " below the hole as checked with a tie wrap dip stick I made, The fill is accessed better if the Air filter top is moved out of the way