windguy

@maenad - try the thread below for some help: http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6563-removing-wheel-well-covers/?_fromLogin=1 There is another thread and someone posted some up close pics of the clips, which is very useful. But I can't seem to find the thread. Perhaps another formumite can locate it. I'm getting ready to remove these side panels myself so I wouldn't mind taking another look too before I go at it.

below is my screen shot

Yes. Good job getting to that. Thanks Your build date is probably 12/08/14 (ETIS shows dy-mo-yr) Screen shot for mine is below. Build date is 10/29/14. My HISTORY tab shows nothing as well. I'm assuming this means the BCM was never updated.

@karma - this sounds like a nightmare for you. Would be for me too because I solely use the digital speedo instead of the analog. Better visibility for me. I'd be lost without it so I can empathize with your troubles. Seems until you get someone at Ford that understands what is going on you're going to get the runaround. And then is Ford willing to make a software patch to correct this issue. So I googled your recall (17S09 – Coolant Level Sensor System) since I hadn't received one myself. Link below is very detailed on how to do this recall. Do you have the 1.6L EcoBoost Engine? https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCMN-17V209-7886.pdf CHECK OUT ATTACHMENT IV PAGES 19&20 OF 43 - Procedure E - Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Reprogramming At the header of this doc is a contact - Michael A. Berardi, Director of Service Engineering Operations, Ford Customer Service Division. I'd figure out a way to contact him and share your story. Shouldn't be too hard to email him. Good luck - keep us posted!

Thanks jrm223. I can certainly follow that protocol saving original files, but there is some risk in the process whenever you start messing with something. I'd still like to know if Forscan or FoCCCus program shows you the BCM version level. I'm still uncertain if mine has been properly update to the required "latest/post 2016 build" version. I'd like you to check Ford ETIS for your VIN before and after you have your BCM updated to see if that BCM status changes. Here's the link. First register and create a free account. Thanks! https://www.etis.ford.com/home/about.do

In an ideal scenario, yes, but my experience has proved otherwise. If the dealer can figure out how to do this then consider yourself lucky. So far for me, two different dealers and two different techs at the second dealer were unable to successfully disable the approach lights. And I'm not sure if any of the three techs successfully updated my 2015 TC BCM as required. Ford ETIS doesn't show it being updated, if that's accurate.

Welcome to forum. Sorry it's under these circumstances for you. There are a few of us on the forum that are light users of the van. I can go a week or more without turning the van on. Sometimes two weeks, and I've never had a battery discharge issue. I have a 2015 Cargo Van. Nothing extra running off the power. I will even open doors sometimes during those non-use periods so some minimal cabin/ext lights cycling on triggered by the door. I always leave the doors unlocked, windows open and driver's side slider open and I have no alarm system. Good luck!

Thanks jrm223 and Willygee. For $30 I'd be willing to get this tool to try it out. It would be interesting to explore unless I screw something up and the van has to be flat bedded to the Ford dealer

I have a cargo van that has an XLT trim level, and has a control on the left side of the steering wheel to change the display settings. Scrolling options like: MPG, miles to empty, trip miles, MPH, and a few others I can't recall. Is your van an XLT or XL? Perhaps the XL doesn't have this control and that's why you're asking the question.

The SMM uses the term "Approach Light" per below (STEP 1) If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher. (STEP 2) For all vehicles, access the BCM Configuration Parameters. Select Module Programming, Programmable Parameters, Personality, Approach Light. Choose Disabled and follow the screen prompts to completion. The print out the dealer gave me for what my van BCM shows: Approach Light - (BdyCM) = Disabled I wish I better understood how this all works. I just have bits and pieces of info. It would be cool to be able to use the Ford IDS Software at a dealer and see what is going on. Interesting link below for Ford Diagnostic Software https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/VDIRS/wds/vcm_retail_renewal_Latest.asp

Since we both have a 2015 year TC, you need to be my guinea pig. I'm curious if the Focccus program shows the dark mode feature as a settable option for the BCM? I was thinking it wouldn't unless your BCM was updated to the newer version where dark mode was added. Is the BCM version level displayed anywhere? Per the SSM "If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher."

Thanks Don. I would agree that the BCM isn't altered when making these setting changes. It's probably a look-up file for the BCM program to access. It's all very interesting.

@Don - Great write-up. Thanks for sharing. One issue for setting dark mode in a 2014-2015 TC is that the BCM software has to be upgraded first. 2016 and newer BCM already has the dark mode option programmed in. Do you think there a way to do this outside going to a Ford dealer using these tools? An independent mechanic must have the capability to get software updates for Ford vehicles so I take it it's not a Ford dealer exclusive thing. Considering I had two different dealers try to set the dark mode option for me and first updating the BCM and Ford ETIS still doesn't show my BCM being upgraded, I have a big question mark as to why this couldn't be easily done. Perhaps they weren't writing the changes to the BCM as you explained in your procedure. One dealer even gave me printouts showing Dark mode was enabled but that may come from the program they were using and not from the actual BCM setting. Based on your procedure you don't actually edit the BCM but upload the BCM configuration to a programming tool, edit that configuration, then push that configuration back to the BCM. The BCM doesn't have its own menu driven function to make changes. Regarding your changes made, I'd like to have the high beams on at the same time as the fog lights for full visibility. I don't like having it be one or the other. Driving on dark canyon roads I want to be able to see as much as possible. I have had deer dart out in front of me several times and other obstacles I wish I avoided. Side issue. I wish the passenger window for my cargo van had a one button down option like the driver side. Is that available on a wagon version or titanium?

There are few threads regarding sound proofing. Use the search option. Try this one http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6555-sound-deadening-solution-for-noisy-vans/?tab=comments&_fromLogin=1 I have a 2015 cargo van and have bought sound proofing material to be installed this spring. Needs to be warm outside >53deg F. Most of the major sound proofing suppliers recommend two layers of material, a sound deadener material and then a thermal/sound mat over that. I first bought a box of Noico 80mil but felt it was too heavy to put on the ceiling so I plan to use that for the floor area only and perhaps the rear side panels in the back. I then bought a box of Kilmat 50mil for the ceiling, sliding door and rear barn doors. It's 1/2 the weight of the Noice 80mil. Both distributed by the same company through Amazon and Noico products are made in the Republic of Russia. Seriously. I never bought anything made in Russia. I also bought two boxes of the Noico 150mil mat liner to cover all areas with sound proofing plus the required roller for the sound proofing install. About $243 for all materials. For short drives by myself the road noise isn't an issue as I just turn up the radio. But for extended road trips with my wife it's very noticeable and somewhat annoying. Looking forward to this project. I'll provide updates after I do the install.

@bikinchris - glad you finally got your racks installed. no pics? To access the inside of the front mounting hole, you do have to remove the headliner. I also considered doing so but it seems like too much work with potential for collateral damage. I peeked inside the area by gently pulling down the back side of the headliner and with a flashlight I can see the forward mounting hole and also the airbag, which is well below the mounting hole and folded neatly and held in place with some type of cloth tie. Between the airbag and the roof is a metal flange that has some curvature to it. I don't believe there would be any reason to remove the airbag if you wanted to use the forward most mounting hole and using it would not affect the air bag in any manner. I think that is an urban myth with the TC, but those are just my observations. More discussion in a rack thread I posted a while back, link below, where I mounted tracks in the channel so the rails were adjustable. Just another install option. I also removed those gray/black foam pieces above the slider door tracks shortly after I got the van. They didn't seem to serve a useful purpose and looked kind of funky. Glad I got rid of them. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6632-gen-2-roof-racks-tracks-install/?tab=comments#comment-21818

Thanks for your post. Yes, I printed out a copy of the PDF I posted earlier from others input just for that reason. I showed it to the service advisor but he wouldn't take it, even on my insistence. He did show me the identical information on his computer screen under the SSM in the Ford system so I relented to his methods. Presumably that's what the tech was reading. Did the tech follow these instructions? Hard to say. The work order was done under the 3yr warranty so payment wasn't an issue. And no, not done at the dealer I bought the van at. I've never been back to that dealership as they are a ways away with numerous Ford dealers in between. I only bought it from there because they were enrolled in the Costco auto buying program. No reason to go back. The one difference between your van and mine might be that vans built after 12-11-16 already have the updates for the dark mode loaded in their BCM version. Prior year vans need to have the BCM updated first as step one of the SSM, and that's where I think they are failing to get this done properly as Ford ETIS does not show my vehicle's BCM as being updated since the factory build date.

I see you have an emergency tool in the glove box. Very cool. I just got a pair recently for both cars and I'm storing it in the center console. Doesn't fit that great because I chose a longer model for easier grip, but I think it's more accessible in the center console than the glove box. If your seat belt retractor is jammed and you're alone, there's no way you'll be able to reach that tool in the glove box to cut your way out. Something to think about.

@jackgrimshaw - congrats on getting the dark mode enabled. What year is your TC? I'm jealous. I've now gone to two different dealers and neither one can figure out how to properly execute the SSM. So frustrating. With the second dealer, the first appointment (1.5hrs) later resulted in no change. Went back a 2nd time after they updated their computer and had two different techs give it a try. Two hours later, same result, no change. Service Advisor showed me a printout showing that the approach lights were disabled but it doesn't work. Service advisor said he'd check with Ford but it's been over a month now. I wish I could have my service advisor contact the tech that was able to get yours done for a consult on how to do this. I've all but given up hope on getting this change made. When I check my vehicle under Ford ETIS, it shows the BCM version as never being updated. Still shows the factory build date and no change history. If the dealer updated the BCM, as required to make this change, I would expect to see that update under ETIS per what a previous poster had shown.

@alvin - looks great. Safe travels!

Thanks Alvin. I found the thread I referred to, link below. I'm ready to give this a try. I think it will be easier to work on the flooring area with the side panels off and then add sound proofing to the sides like you did. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6563-removing-wheel-well-covers/?_fromLogin=1

Great thread as I have the same question. Looking at the pics that Strobz posted and Desert_connect's pics of the fastener and description of how to remove is very helpful. I think I get it. I hate breaking parts and creating collateral damage. I bought a small panel tool remover kit with some plastic tools and the metal claw one that's pictured so I'm ready to give this a try. Many thanks!

Okay, maybe I've been living in a cave too long, so if you already have one of these, then move along. There's nothing new to read here. My old digital tire gauge was getting really flaky, not engaging the valve very well. Model shown in picture below. Time for a new one. Rather than replace with something similar, I find out you can get a digital gauge and inflator all in one tool. My old inflator had some manual pop up reader but never used it. Picked out the AstroAi 250 (about $30) based on decent reviews and it's the cat's meow. It's so fast to inflate, check pressure, bleed some air out if necessary. There are a few more expensive models but didn't think it was warranted for my monthly pressure checks on two cars. I need to get out of the cave more often. There's a new world out there. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Inflator-Compressor-Accessories-Resolution/dp/B07528LFCT OLD GAUGE NEW GAUGE/INFLATOR

I finally got around to changing the backup light to LEDs. Seems like there is more light now so I think it's a worthwhile mod. Getting the rear lens out was easy on the passenger side but the driver side was caught up and a pain to back out. There's not a whole lot of wiggle room to getting these out. Tight fit. In case someone is wondering, the lens does not have to be removed, just opened enough to get to the rear of the housing to remove the bulb socket. See pic below. Put the new LEDs in, button it up and then grab my wife to help me test it out. Neither light is on. What? Really? Both don't work. Crap! I knew I should have tested it before putting it all back. I recall reading either on this forum or reviews for the bulbs that sometimes the LEDs have to be reversed. Did that and they both fired up just fine. There are an assortment of LED options available but I decided to avoid the lower cost ones and go with Phillips based on quality in the reviews. $20 for the pair. P/N: 12789LPB2 921-WHITE LED. Original bulb is a W16W.

@Alvin - What a great thread. Thanks for sharing great write-ups, pics and awesome videos. You're work in most appreciated. WELL DONE! Your attention to detail shows in the final product. First rate work all around. You've inspired me to get off my butt and make some mods to my cargo van. Looking forward to reading about more mods and videos! Can you please share how to remove the rear side panels in the back? Another forum member asked that same question in another thread somewhere, but I'm not seeing it. My van is cargo, yours is wagon, but I'm sure the panels are installed the same way. Thanks!

I missed seeing this thread originally. Glad two forumites floated it to the top. You made some great mods to your van. Extra points for getting your significant other to help. Hope to see more in the future.