Hal

Additional thoughts about the polyliner package: Defintely drill the hole for the seatbelt reel bolt (I used a 3/4" hole saw) , temporarily bolt up the reel and trace around it. This will give you a much bettter fitting for the reel. The polyliner definitely acts as a sound deadner. A little insulation of some type (Dynamat) would make it even better. If you intend on installing the E-Track cargo rails, read both sets of instructions before starting. Their directions have you installing the polyliner, driling pilot holes for the E-Track bolts, removing the polyliner, enlarging the holes and installing the riv-nuts for the E-track bolts and then reinstalling the polyliners. I think all the remove and reinstall could be avoided by using the proper size hole saw. But I would need to do some measuing to be certain. At this point I dont intend to install the E-track in my TC. In fact it is for sale if someone is interested.

OK, Here goes my how-to: The Poly Liner package was designed for a cargo van. If you are going to put it in a wagon you will have to do some cutting and fitting to work around the seat belts for the rear seats. Other than that the directions are good with pictures to help you out. First, remove the jack, covers over the door mechanisims, and the seat belts. Very important!! Pull the seat belt out of the reel about 3 feet and then tape in place so it can't retract before unbolting it. i did not do this and then had problems getting the belt to pull out. And in the process of trying to fix that let the recoil spring get loose!! Looks Like I will need to get a new seat belt. Second, Test fit the panel so you can see where you will need to modify it for the seat belt or other items. This picture shows the modifications made for the seat belts. At first I thought I could just put in holes for the bolts. But the seatbelt reel has some prongs on the back of it that fit in the t-slot and vertical slots beside it. The prongs on the seatbelt reel are not long enough to go thru the poly liner and into their slots so the poly liner must be cut away to clear the seatbelt reel. I made a pattern and traced it on the polyliner. A better method would be to drill a hole for the seatbelt reel bolt and bolt the reel in place. Then you could trace around the reel and get a better fit than I did. You will have to make a spacer to set the upper seat belt bolt out the thicknesss Of the liner (I used two washers). You will have to drill two holes for the screws that hold on one of the covers. Not sure why this is since the cargo vans also have those covers. A couple pictures to show the finished product. The panels are made to fit over a heavy duty mat or plywood floor so they don't quite make it tight down against the OEM floor mat. I think the bottom flange on them could be trimmed and then the liner could be stuck behind the OEM mat . I just left them be since I am thinking about puting in a wood floor. So far I am very pleased with the polyliner package. I took it for a ride last night and they seem to dampen road noise a bit even without any insulation behind them. I could have done a little better job trimming for the seat belt reels but it doesn't look too bad.

I just installed mine today. Will try to get a how-to with pictures up tomorrow. Price was $700 but since it was the wifes suggestion I got it anyhow. I did not install the e-track since like Regor mine is a wagon and I wanted the panels to give the back a more finished look. The panels were designed for cargo vans so you have to make some modifications to put them in a wagon. I will give the details when I post the how-to.

Lug pattern is 5 x 108mm and the offset is 52.mm. Most wheels with from 42 to 52mm offset should work with appropiate size tires. 18 x 8.5 wheels with a 52mm offset using 225/45-18 tires are the largest that I have found anybody using.

I had one of those in my 97 F150 truck. I left it in for shows but could easily zip the bottom out if I needed to. Haven't seen anything for the TC yet but haven't really been looking, want to get some panels to cover the rear walls first.

My TC has the 15" steel wheels from the factory. i want to replace them with something nicer. But I am having a problem finding out what the stock offset is. I get numbers ranging from 40mm to 52mm. Anyone know for sure what the stock offset is?

OK, My mirrors came in. I ordered from a different supplier but they are from the same company (Hercules). I also got the larger size. I spent 2 hours at a local AZ where a friend is the asst. manager. We carefully removed an example of every mirror they had in stock from the packaging and used scotch tape to check placement on my TC. Nothing he had gave me the vision that I needed. I needed some adjustable ones like my neighbor has on his Audi. But he didn't remember where he got them since he purchased the car in Germany and drove it in Europe for a year before shipping it stateside. Here is a pic of them on the TC: This is the view from the drivers seat. The closest brick post is 3" from the truck and even with the rear wheel so It should take care of any blind spot I had.

Thanks for the find. I have been hunting for these specfic mirrors for a couple months. My neighbor has them on his car but doesn't remember where he got them. I specfically like the idea that they are adjustable. All the other blind-spot mirriors I could find are not adjustable. I have a set of the larger ones on order.

Might be a while since they are not currently an option in this country. Might have to wait till the 2011's are out for local dealers to be able to get the parts.

Sorry about that, I have edited my first post to get the correct address which is: Trevor Porter <trevor@fordpartsuk.com> The price was 107GBP with 66GBP of it being the insured trackable shipping method they use. Becasue of the currency fluctuations your price might be slightly different. Also, if you are careful removing the fasteners you can reuse them and not have to get new ones. I reused mine but I wanted some extras to have on hand for other projects.

What I have found out about TPMS: 1. The target pressures are set in the computer of the vehicle. The sensors are just generic pressure variable radio transmitters. So trying to find sensors from a different vehicle that requires the pressures you want to use will not do anything. 2. Some of the service people at the local dealership are checking to see if there is any way to reset the target pressures in the computer. Turns out I was not the first one to make a request like this. So far they haven't found any way to do it. 3. One customer at the dealership did find a way. He built a container that could hold all four of the sensors and could be pressurized. Put all four sensors in the container, pressurize it to the proper pressure, and stick the container under the seat. Thia would require two different containers for the TC because of the differing front and rear pressures. Anyone have the size measurements of the sensors? 4. An electrical engineer/ham radio operator friend of mine tells me that if I can get the frequency and waveform of the output of the sensors he could build some transmitters to duplicate the sensor output. He said a transmitter could probably be built for less than the cost of one of the sensors and be about the size of a match box. Just get 4 and throw them in the glovebox!

Glad someone figured it out. I have had that piece stuck in a cup holder for a month while I tried to figure out where it went.

I had already tried to order them hre in the USA. Both with the local Ford Dealer and also one that the Focus guys all over the US use. Local dealer had no idea, other guy could find them but his system would not allow him to order them. If I read the 2011 order guide correctly they will be part of the top of the line wagon package only.

Finally got my Rear Door Storage Pockets and got them installed. They were purchased from Trevor Porter <trevor@fordpartsuk.com>. The part numbers you will need are: RH Door Pocket 1526163 LH Door Pocket 1526958 Fasteners (20 req) 6678518 Parts prices are very reasonable but shipping will be more than the cost of the parts. Now for the obligatory "BEFORE" photo One of the panels you will be removing. They are held in by the round plastic push -in fasteners. The new inserts you will be installing Tools to remove the old panels - a stiff putty knife and an auto motive fastener remover. The auto trim remover isn't absolutely necessary but since I had it I used it. It did allow me to get the fasteners out without damaging them so they could be reused. With the stock panel removed With the new pocket installed. And the obligatory "AFTER" picture The whole job including rounding up the tools, etc and taking the pictures in addition to installing the storage pockets took me 1/2 hour (figure 15 min. with out the pics).

I assume you are talking about the cover over some fuses and the OBDII port on the lower left of the dash. I actually pulled some of the fasteners for the dash loose before I got the cover plate off. As noted it went back together easily. I'll have to remember to take the cover off myself before I take it for emissions testing as I would trust the folks out there to get the cover off without tearing up half the dash.

Without going into all the math involved, I will tel you that the lower the frequency of the radio station the longer the antenna required. This is why AM stations with frequencies in Khz require longer antennas than FM stations with frequencies measured in Mhz. So shortening an antenna will affect the AM stations more than the FM. I shortened my antenna on my Focus with the help of a fellow Amateur Radio operator and some of his test equipment. I ended up loosing the AM band almost entirely but only lost about 10% of the sensitvity on the FM band. I have made antennas for some of my amateur equipment before. I used whatever connector required to connect to the radio and a piece of fiberglass rod inserted into the connector. I fastened a small diameter solid copper wire to the connector and wound it around the fiberglass. That way I had 3 feet of wire for the antenna but the overall length was slightly less than a foot.

Correct, those are the holes for seat belt mounting when you have the second row of seats. The upper most ones that you used are also used for the seat belt reel in the wagons Those holes and brackets are for tethering child safety seats installed in the second row of seats. Since all the holes you used are mounting holes for seat belt components they should be strong enough for use as cargo tie-down spots.

I like the cup holders in the TC. They are much better than the ones in my Focus.

I don't think we are going to see any diesel engines in any Ford except the larger trucks. I do sort of expect to see something like the 2.5L EcoBoost in the TC in a few years.

Sorry, wrong engine. that is a Zetec engine and the TC has a Duratech. The 2.3L Duratech would be a better swap but that is $2400 nad then you would need a reflash and tune.