George_97220

But those don't look like the diagram Andrew submitted. It does say REAR safety belt retractor. Maybe a different year? Oh, well. It sounds plausible at least.

OH! Huh. Good question. I'm guessing we'd have to find someone with the passenger van version to find out.

OK. It's something of a disappointment, but here's some pics: It's the "pocket" on the outside where the rear door track roller goes when the sliding door is closed

100 watts SSB isn't a REAL lot of power. I'm sure Ford tested the various electronic assemblies for RF susceptibility at much higher power. You could probably ask your dealer. They would tap-dance you around until they found someone who knew for sure! Where were you thinking about mounting the radio? fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/8228-anyone-have-a-scanner-or-2-way-radio-in-the-tc/

Because I CAN! This is America.

Umm, then why add a hitch?

Yes, but AFAIK, those standards only apply to manufacturers. Oregon, for example, only requires TWO rear brake lights. And no law prohibits removing safety equipment. Only pollution control equipment. (Technically, you could remove your seatbelts in Oregon, except that another law requires you to use them!) Check your state's laws. You can find lots of dealers in England on eBay that will sell you a used one for too much money. Search for "high-level brake light, Ford Transit Connect." PS. When you go to Lowes to buy plugs for the holes for the old light, they're all different sizes! I guess that's to prevent the factory workers from putting the light on backwards?

David: They make some slick stuff. But the rigs we're talking about are pretty good size. https://www.rigpix.com/bearcat/bc895xlt.htm https://www.rigpix.com/whistler/trx2.htm Hmm. But maybe their laptop mount would work? Is that what you meant? https://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-VB-175-SW1 I like that! And it looks like you can still use the front seat, for the most part. AND, it's on Amazon, too! Tnx. G.

> I really want to be able to see the display. Yeah, I know. That's the BIG disadvantage. But there's a lot of room up there! I make an effort to secure the radio(s), for safety. An alternative, if you have 700 bucks or so laying around, is the Whistler TRX-2 with the removable remote head. And, if you can still find one, Uniden used to make a remote head that was compatible with a few of their models. But I don't think they would be recent models and, if not, they wouldn't do Phase 2 trunking. Another option (which I have never tried) is something like the BC536, with wi-fi. Then you could prop your wi-fi-equipped tablet in the dashtop tray opening or, in a pinch, on top of the steering column. Actually, I have a BC536 that I've never used and, IIRC, the software for the wi-fi function is optional. But I think you can find it for free. Good luck.

I put my old BC-895 on the shelf over my head. (Since I can't use it for trunking anymore, I filled it full of MilAir freqs.) Yeah, I know, I can't see the display, but I usually don't need to. I ran antenna and power up the LH post, with a switch mounted on the lower portion of the pillar, since the power is otherwise always on. That's two things that have always bothered me about my TC: the lack of appropriate power sources (other than the radio circuit) and the total lack of suitable mounting locations for radios. But, you know, what else are ya gonna do? I've always thought about putting a smaller/lower-profile radio right on top of the dash. But you might as well put a sign in your window, inviting someone to break in. And I've considered mounting a scanner to the bottom of the overhead shelf, right in the middle. But this would block the dome/map lights. So.............. ? Pic of inside antenna, through dirty windshield. NMO mount, with a small sheet of grounded tin underneath. (Another whip is on the fender.) Outlet is for GPS, or what-have-you.

GN-OG From connector C438 (inside rear door post) to connector C4247 in the door. Rear Window Defrost Grid, Left. It comes from fuse F178 in front, but that's switched by the Defrost Relay in the CJB. Just pop the fuse out to disconnect the wire from the defrost relay. The wire is GN-BU at the CJB, but it's probably buried in some wire harness. But It goes through C237, pin 11, which is inside the panel next to your left foot. That should be easy to find. Remove the panel, pull out the two connectors, and see which one has 12 volts on pin 11 when the defroster is on. The problem is that it feeds both defroster grids and I can't tell where the split is. You'd have to disconnect the RH defroster in the door, which I'm guessing would be easiest. If you don't have the camera, check to see if the connector is there anyway. It's a six-pin flat connector, coming out of the harness labelled "UAB.". Hot is pin 1, YE-VT. Signal is pin 3.

> It does not go as smooth as I was hoping Yeah, but doesn't that just make it all that much more fun? > there's a difference of resistance between the left seat and the right seat Wow. Really? So the dash warning lights (or whatever) do indicate which side is activated? Hmm. Are you sure you're measuring the right pins? I mean, if there are only two pins, that has to be right, I guess. And the resistance is around 10 MEGOhms, is that right? That seems awful high. Are you SURE that there isn't a switch under the seat? To sense when someone is sitting there? Otherwise, the "seat belt open" indication would be on all the time. Again, sorry, I don't have the same year/model as you, but where is the seatbelt retractor? In the side post or wall? That's probably where the seatbelt switch is. Either there, or in the buckle, next to the seat. Just look for a wire coming out of the buckle cover. The seat pressure sensor will be under the seat, of course. I'm guessing the rear seat sensor is much simpler than what I'm looking at in my 2012 front seat, which also has the airbag detector, etc., etc. And of course, there's always this alternative: fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/534-seat-belt-buzzer-turn-off-please/ Maybe this can be done for your year?

I have an older cargo van, so I can't address this first-hand. But I would unplug the connector, then use an ohmmeter to measure the switch (i.e. going AWAY from the wiring harness, TOWARD the seat). Sit in the seat, or pull out the seatbelt, and see what the reading is. If it's a dead short (like a simple switch would be), then it would be an easy matter of jumpering the connector going toward the harness. Either at the connector or at any point closer to the concealed harness that you have ambition to track down. OR jumper it at the connector, wrap it well, then tuck the whole thing behind the panel it comes from - in case someone ever would want to reconnect it.

And I REALLY don't think you'd want to get in an accident with that window in your vehicle! Even behind you.

> Went to put a fuse in 174 and there are not any clips to hold it in There aren't any fuse clips in ANY of the empty/unused slots. What do you suppose they save by leaving them out? A couple cents each? Oh, well. What are you gonna do?

I bought RoadKill for my 2012, since these products are all pretty much the same and it's available on Amazon. BTW: Look what Ford puts inside the front doors, from the factory:

It's probably Google! Did you give 'em the finger?

That's odd. F174 should be there, in both the regular and taxi versions. I have the manual for the 2012 and it shows power running from F174 in the Central Junction Box through connector C219 and through another mile of wire to the rear power point. A quick and dirty check: Measure Pin 10 of C219 and see if there is 12 volts there, or not. Remove the cover/kick panel on the drivers side, just north of the door. Squeeze the two tabs and remove the loom assembly. (See pic. Except the pic is for the right side. Picture a mirror image of this!) There are two connectors there, C219 and C237. C219 is the white one. (C237 is green.) Pin 10 should have an orange wire going to it, the same as at the power point connector. Just stick your test lead into the connector body, next to the pin. Negative is to chassis. If 12 volts is MISSING at that point, then there is something strange going on with your fuse block. If the 12 volts is there, then it's disappearing somewhere between there and the power point. Good luck with that! Did someone add a trailer hitch or some other "unauthorized" modification and was looking for a quick and easy source of 12 volts? The possibilities are really limitless at this point.

Well, here's what I did. Nothing fancy, but then, I'm not the artistic type.

> Missing is a "battery saver relay" CJB position #128 , 10 amp mini fuses at F155 , F 144 and F 149 . > Also missing is the 25 amp fuse in position F 10 in the BJB under the hood . That's because you didn't order the "taxi" option! The respective leads from the CJB fuse block go to a block connector on the right side, behind the glovebox. Probably also missing. A major disappointment for me has been the lack of extra fuse positions in this vehicle. And even if you wanted to use those three "taxi" option fuse positions to power accessories, you have to remember that they are hot in Run and Start. Fine for lights or what-have-you, but not so great for electronics. Too bad they aren't hot during Acc and Run. Those "mini-taps" are the way to go, for low/medium current devices anyway. In my case, I disconnected the right lighter jack and connected that 30A source to a four-fuse block mounted near the firewall, above the CJB. (On the plate where the back-up sensor module goes, if you don't order the camera. See pic.) This runs a couple of lights and a radio that is manually switched. I plan on powering the lighter jack from the battery in the back, if/when I ever get started on THAT project.

Well, first of all, I know didley about the 2014. Other than the taxicab option is still available. The earlier TC's had a dearth of extra fuses, or even unused slots, to connect power to radios or other accessories/toys. BUT, the taxicab option has two or three leads that are hot during the RUN and (unfortunately) START positions. These leads go to a three conductor connector buried on the right side firewall. (Presumably, if you order the overhead light, etc., the cabling plugs into that. Install the fuses and you're set.) But those points can be used for switched power, although I don't know why you would need a relay in that case. If/when you find a wiring manual, this would be a good place to start. Begin tracing from the fuse block. Good luck.

> The plant in Turkey doesn't show any downtime The salesguy at my dealership told me that the 2014's were going to be made in Spain! Any truth to that at all?

> There's also a liftgate version with full width window in Europe. Yeah, I noticed that. No, not available in the US of A, for reasons unknown. Until the 2014, I guess. Definiite improvement!

> They both had a little plastic flip down cover tho. Yeah, I had an early 2000's Ford with the same set-up - the flip-up cover on the driver's side (only). I really don't know what they are doing now, to tell you the truth. I decided on the Transit Connect and didn't even bother to look at anything else!

I thought passenger-side only was standard in all US vehicles for years? The thought being that if you have a mirror in the driver's side visor you, One, would tend to use it while driving (a hazard) and, Two, headlights from a vehicle behind you could momentarily blind you. BUT - I bought this one at Harbor Freight for, like, two bucks on sale: http://www.harborfreight.com/visor-mirror-67110.html I'm sure the identical item, probably from the same Chinese factory, is available at any auto parts store or even Walmart.