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I ran a wire over head spliced into the existing factory light and picked up some LED aftermarket lights that snapped in the factory holes.

You can make your own vapor barriers with thick plastic film and butyl rubber tape/rope used to seal windows. Probably a good idea if you live in a wet, cold environment.

Thanks again for trusting me to print you some links. I hope the install went well.

I have a 2020 Ford Transit Connect XLT Cargo LWB without automatic climate control. I saw that there appears to be an automatic climate control unit that looks like it’s just an easy swap. Does anyone know if it will work to just swap the control units, or is it a more complex process? specifically thinking this part: https://www.ebay.com/itm/395395766868?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e1a6yNg_Td-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=gbofG3JTTr2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I need a 40 amp power source for a DC DC charger, is there a better spot than directly off the battery? I have a 2020, anyone know if that is a smart alternator?

Did you use a factory second light, was it plug and play or did you splice?

Have you ever done a Scan? were there any codes? After it acts up does it go back to normal ? If it does it sounds like it could have solenoid issues. What does the fluid look like?

I was told it used to be a state owned vehicle. It looks like a part of a previous security device that I have seen on other cars that needs a security key held in the receptacle to start engine? Not sure of name of system? This car starts and drives fine so I think its been disabled. Is there a way to bypass it, I have not looked for system under dash yet.

Great job! I'm just starting my build on a 2020 FTC and it will be similar to yours. Right now I'm trying to get info on removing the rear seats since I have the passenger version. I'm in NH and the weather hasn't been cooperating but I'll get there! Enjoy your adventures!

Don, Thank you so much for the time and effort to explain everything in this forum. I have a 2020 Ford TC and am currently trying to do exactly what you did with the addition of making the drop down area of the 2nd row into accessible storage. I am thinking of using 2 separate pieces. Only issue is I can't seem to access your pdfs to get the base measurements of the cutout. Abby way you can email those to me please. Thanks in advance!

Don, Thank you so much for the time and effort to explain everything in this forum. I have a 2020 Ford TC and am currently trying to do exactly what you did with the addition of making the drop down area of the 2nd row into accessible storage. I am thinking of using 2 separate pieces. Only issue is I can't seem to access your pdfs to get the base measurements of the cutout. Abby way you can email those to me please. Thanks in advance!

One of the plaguing issues with the Transit Connect is the transmission. Countless stories of transmissions biting the dust at or around 100k miles. We’ve all read about it. I’ve even been a victim of my van’s trans acting up. This ultimately led to the retirement of the van from racing competition. That was 4 years ago. Van still runs and has 190k miles. Every now & then, with no consistent factors or patterns, transmission will act up and give me troubles. Never once has it left me stranded. But it left me limping to my destination one way or another. Sometimes, if I cycle power on the car, I’m able to get by. It’s a ticking time bomb at this point. One of these days the van won’t recover. It’s one of those scenarios where I can’t front the $3k—$5k for a new transmission. It would be more reasonable to drive it until it dies then pick up some cheap shitbox or finance a used car with a low payment. Until I came across these kits in the attached photos. Apologies if the photos are not in order or they don’t work. I’m posting off my phone for the first time. These kits claim to restore functionality in the transmission. They claim to rectify the shift issues (have those), the ratio codes (have those), and other trans issues (have those). This isn’t a full rebuild kit. This doesn’t include clutch packs or bushings. These kits also claim the transmission does not need to be dropped to perform this repair. It’s basically a bunch of components to rebuild the solenoid/valve body. Which makes sense when I think about what may be causing my sporatic drivability issues. This also may not fully repair my issues. It may need a full rebuild, especially knowing that I used to beat on this van for racing. But a $200 repair kit is a much more approachable option to start. I like to think I’m a 7/10 wrencher. I can do most of anything depending on resources, tools, time, and money. I’ve pulled motors and dropped trans before. But I’ve never messed with anything internal in auto trans. Trying to figure out if this is within my scope of work. if anyone has experience using kits like these for these vans or other applications, I’d love to learn more.

Was able to access the nut via the dome light opening. The nut conveniently stayed connected to the wire which made reinstullation quite easy. Unscrewed the nut with an 8mm deepwell socket. Popped the old base off, from the outside, and clicked the new one back on. Reattached the nut from the inside. Easy... The old one was definitely leaking.

Thanks, that makes sense. I am painting both sides of my panels, so I will skip the $38 (CAD) per pair then.

You will need to remove the headliner. There will be a fastener.

Hopefully it is this nut, accessed under the overhead light.

Anyone know how to replace the plastic base of the front, mast antenna? (2021) https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-aerial-without-cable_av1z-18813-a.html?vin=&make=Ford&model=Transit Connect&year=2021&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=() Mine has cracks in it. Getting water dripping through the housing for the windshield's sensors. I thought it was from a bad glass seal. While caulking I found the cracks. Caulking didn't help...

No, just to protect the panels, which are not waterproof.

Kind of an interesting decision; I wonder if they are to protect something specific like the wiper motors.

Yup they are, and the weep holes along the door's bottom edge is where the melted frost and water escapr from.

I can’t help much but have them too except I dont have the plugs. Mine have just a metal cup with no top at all. I’d say pop the cap and fillt or cover them smoothly.

I found a 2010 TC near me in NH and after a bit of rust abatement and driving it for a few months decided to build myself a camper. It had less than 60K miles, good tires, smooth running but some surface rust on the rear bumper cover and pinch seams on the rockers. I replaced the bumper, repaired the spare bracket, bought a wheel to replace the spare and shot an oil based rustproofing on the rockers. Inspection found corrision on one side of the front suspension subframe that I had welded. The van wasnt generally very rusty but these places are commonly the first affected. Convinced this could make a great camper for my fur pal Jack and me I designed one. It needed a single bed, a galley, storage, some electricity for a vent, heater, lights, and for electronics recharging. To start I pulled out the back seats and insulated enough so that a 2KW diesel heater could overcome freezing temps in case I camped in late fall or early spring. I’ll have a powered roof vent for summer and for cooking. The insulation is covered with a felt carpet to improve the appearance. For a bed I used 1/2” hardwood plywood and slats from Ikea to make a cot sized main bed and added two pullout sections to bring it to twin size. It is firmly bolted to the van. I found a 4 piece folding twin sized mattress on Walmart which I cut appart and then sewed the open sides back closed. I also added a shelf above the drivers cabin to store supplies and clothes. The narrow cushions are used as backrests when the bed is compacted to twin size and makes a couch for sitting. Old milk crates fit under the bed for storing shoes, hiling boots, butane fuel and much more. To support the pullout I built a galley with a sink, drawers, and a slide out for my trusty refrigerator. When installed and bolted in it gives some food storage, a place for 2.5 gal. water jugs for fresh/waste, and my cooking stove plus utensils. I'll add a CO2/Smoke detector and fire extinguisher. It will get a formica top soon. I’ve purchased most of the equipment to finish the electrical with a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery, 200 Watts of solat panels w/controller, some fuse and distribution panels, puck lights, usb and cigar outlets for charging, and swirches. I hope to finish this in a couple of months so I can get away for a shakedown trip before fall. At this time I’ve spent just under $5,900 including $4,700 for the van, and about $1,200 for the conversion. I will probably find a few more items that are needed but my goal is to keep the cost at $6,000. The van will get a transmission service, fluids changed, new belts and perhaps radiator hoses before I go far. With only 6,000 miles it may not need all that but it is now 15 years old. I hope to see you on the road!

Hey everyone, I'm an amateur car guy but I love Gen1 TCs. They just look so cool. I have an old white 2011 cargo that I insulated and fan'd etc, just a surfer van + work commuter/breakroom. And just got a spotless silver 2012 xlt premium passenger wagon with 30k miles on it that I'm working on for my woman. Selling the seats (another post). I'm currently trying to figure out what these plates are for. There are three of them and I can't find mention anywhere online. They're just big enough to make my vanrug bulge up. I can remove and plug the holes, but wanted to ask for feedback first. Any ideas??? Thank you so much. Steve

What are these membranes for on the rear door panels; my guess is that they are primarily vapour barriers?