All Activity

You may have to install relays to isolate the new lights from the OEM lights. I don't have a wiring diagram for the 2021 (I have a 2016) so I dont know how the turn signals are controlled. If they are LED, they are most likely controlled from the BCM using a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal. This PWM signal will be sensitive to driving anything but the OEM light so a relay should solve that problem.

My 2016 has DRL and they can't be turned off. Your Ford dealership can disable DRL. Programs like Forscan can also disable DRL but it takes several hours of research/learning to use Forscan.

Hi guys, I would like to place additional turning signals on my roof of the ford transit connect 2021 model. (This is a law thing in Europe for road workers) I've tried nearly everything to get it fixed. without succes (connecting to tow module and rear lights gives disconnections of the BLIS and so on) It's known that the blinkers are controlled for the gem, but I'm looking for a connection somewhere or a cable to get a positive signal from when the blinker occurs without can bus errors. Is there someone able to help me? Thanks in advance

I have a 2018 Ford Transit Connect. When the vehicle is running the headlights stay on. Is it possible to turn the lights off or are these just daytime running lights that are suppose to stay on. The dial for the lights is on the off position.

For sale custom-made Ford Transit Connect motorcycle hauling platform. This fits the first generation Transit Connect from 2010 to 2013. This was a 3/16" aluminum custom-made platform to haul my race bike to the track. It fits bikes up to 80" long. The front wheel is held in place by a condor wheel chock. The wheel chock has been modified to bridge over the transmission housing in the van. Holes are drilled so that the stock seat hardware can be used to hold down the platform as well as the cargo tie downs in the back. It is very secure. This was actually featured in Motorcyclist magazine in 2011. $600 obo (probably can't ship this unless someone wants to arrange all of the logistics). I am in the SF Bay Area and can meet anyone for a local sale. I also have a Ford OEM service manual for the first generation Ford Transit Connect. This is a paper printed manual not a CD or something. $40 I have a set of brand new rear brake shoes never installed. $40 I have all three motor mounts brand new OEM. So if your transit is getting a lot of vibrations it might be time to renew the mounts. $60

I only have a few days of 'testing' but I think a power pack will work fine. The 2 power packs shown below are rated as 10,000 mAh although the larger one is actually an auto/motorcycle jump start power pack. I've been using the smaller one for a few days and after a couple hours of dash cam use, it still shows fully charged. I'm new to 'dash cams' so I picked up a 'cheapo' thru Walmart (iZeeker GD100) for 24 bucks! It's a basic forward cam but with impressive features if you can navigate the setup menu (had to download the full manual from their website). You do need to provide your own micro SD card. It includes a very long power cord but also a 12" one that works great when using the power pack, stashed in the upper shelf.

Has anyone found a way to disable those crazy horn beeps when stepping out of a (parked) running vehicle ?? Extremely annoying! 2023 Transit Connect Titanium thanks

Hi Brad, I am having the same issue and going to try replacing the motors. Which ones did you order ? Many thanks.

I'm looking to purchase a 2021 TC, the one I'm looking at has the Ford Sync radio. I want to put an aftermarket radio in, take the Sync out, I only see one kit, the Metra 95-5861, does it also work in the Sync models?

Dumb question, can you swap an aftermarket radio into a TC with Ford Sync. As in the Sync radio out, an aftermarket in. There a kit for that?

I had the vibration issue with my 2013 TC after about 3 years. Started with vibration at idle, then got progressively worse until the only time it didn't vibrate badly was when cruising in top gear. I was convinced it was something bad, but turned out to be 3 broken engine mounts. Once changed out, the vibs disappeared totally. However I now have a vibration at idle when the vehicle first starts in the morning, but once the motor warms up it disappears. I'm in Florida so the engine doesn't really get that cold most of the year. I put my OBD on it and it showed a red x against the EGR. After a few weeks I decided to change the EGR out. It has made no difference, and the red x is still there against the EGR. I'm using an Autel AL319 OBDII, which shows a green tick when I run a ready test. I had no codes showing before I changed the EGR, and 500 miles afterwards it's still not throwing any codes, just the red x. Anyone any ideas?

Keep us updated on how that works out for you.

I have a '23 Transit Connect (Titanium) and most of this stuff looks pretty similar. I would like a power port for a dash cam, up in the shelf and it's too bad that Ford didn't offer it. In the past, I would have torn into this job by removing all trim and running a circuit to the fuse blocks, but I'm going to take the easy way out! I'll try using an 'emergency' USB power pack and stash it up on the shelf and periodically recharge it.

Thank you. I had given up hope of finding them.

Here is a link to wiring diagrams for your van: Repair and Diagnosis — 2010 Ford Transit Connect L4-2.0L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Anyone? I really just need someone to check their 2010 wiring diagram for the wire color and location for two wires and I am done. instant trigger input ground (-) when the hood or trunk are opened channel 2 output vehicle (-) trunk release or other low current device

This is a huge help! $40 and 4 hours later, I finally have all my doors locking when I push the lock button. I had been walking around the car and checking each one and locking the ones that failed to lock manually every time. I thought I was going to have to bite the bullet and purchase entire locking mechanisms for every door.

IIRC if it's got the factory Taxi Package the back seat is unique to that package. None the less, the mounting holes for the standard seats are probably there.

There is a drain in the box that holds the heater core and evaporator. I think you can access it from the passenger footwell by removing the side cover. Here is PDF showing the cover. Access will be difficult. evaporator.pdf

Following, as I've had the same issue. Curious for someone to chime in. OP, did u end up figuring it out?

I installed my new viper 3105V alarm in my 2010 transit connect. It works, but was not able to find information on which wires to connect for sensing when the side or rear door is opened. Both would need to be attached to wires that connect to ground when that door is opened to trigger the alarm. instant trigger input blue (-) connect to ground (-) when the hood or trunk are opened channel 2 output red/white (-) 200 mA chan2 output vehicle (-) trunk release or other low current device Any help would be appreciated. I attached my notes on which wires I used for anyone else to use. 2010 tc alarm viper 3105V.pdf

If you bypass the door it will no longer trigger your alarm if opened. Assuming you have an alarm...

I have a 2014 Connect XL. 175,000 miles. Dealership gave me a quote of $1100 to fix my leaky oil pan gasket. They don't suspect any cracks in the pan. Most of the charge seems to be tied up in labor, as it also involves disconnecting my AC compressor and other stuff. I've got basic tools at the house. Is this a job that a reasonably proficient DIYer could do himself? Done basic work on my vehicle in the past. Brake pads/rotors, fluid changes including transmission fluid, etc. I have the basic Harbor Freight ramps and jackstands. Will those ramps allow for enough room for me to get undernearh and remove all the necessary bolts? I own basic tools, basic sockets, torque wrenches, etc. But are there any specialty tools required to get this work done? I've never had to deal with any work regarding belts, pulleys, and I'm assuming that may be involved since the AC compressor has to be moved in order to drop the pan. Any special tools when working with pulleys/belts? Anyone perform this repair work on a similarly aged Connect? (I know there were differences in older year models.) FYI, here's what spurring me to get this work done. Oil leak around the pan has been there for a few years but not super bad. However, recently I started to have my oil light indicator come on when at idle only. Figured it may be a bad oil pressure sensor, but I just replaced it earlier this week -- problem remains. And no other oil-related codes are coming up with my scanner. So, I'm thinking my take-up tube may be clogged. Oil indicator light only started to appear after I performed my last oil change. Which I typically do from the top with one of those vacuum pumps dealios. Not sure if the tube I stick down the dipstick hole moved sludge around in the pan or poked something it wasn't supposed to in there. Thus, pulling apart my oil pan is probably gonna be necessary to troubleshoot anyway. Was thinking about ordering a new pickup tube or screen (still have to find the part numbers) before I begin the oil pan work to have on-hand just in case. Any advice or other recommendations? Thanks.

This is is designed to do what you want. Put it on the front O-2 sensor it should help with the code. Lots of people sell them.

This is the Hand truck I have in My TC . Serves my purpose and stores almost any where