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2018 Ford Transit Connect XLT Wagon LWB Let me start by saying that it does appear that I have fixed this problem now and detail for anyone in the future who has these same symptoms what my fix was. The Symptoms: --It was still during the summer and I had the a/c running on max. I got out to deliver a package and it was fine. When I got back about 30 seconds later I noticed the fan didn't seem to be blowing as hard but I didn't think too much of it and thought I was maybe a bit crazy. Several minutes later on my way to my next stop I noticed that I wasn't crazy because the fan speed slowed down drastically. I turned the control to off. I left it off until after I left my next stop when I turned it back on. It was now blowing at full speed again. Several minutes go by and it starts slowing down again. So I turn it back off. I wait a few more minutes and turn it back on, this time only onto the number 3 position. It then works fine the rest of the day without slowing down in this position (probably 4 - 5 more hours of running). Next day when I turned it on, it didn't last long at all before the speed dwindled to nothing. It remained in a state where I could turn it on and get a minute or two of air before it would die out. Then eventually it stopped working altogether. Then about a month after that I turned it on to demonstrate to someone the problem and it actually came on but again only ran for a few minutes and died out. Fixing it: -- I knew that the problem was likely either the blower motor resistor or the motor itself. So I ordered both parts from Advance Auto. And yes I did use a Carquest Premium blower motor and was able to re-install it even though I had heard or read (can't remember which) from somewhere else that this fix "requires" the Motorcraft blower motor. I got a friend to help me and we watched a youtube video which I will link at the bottom of this post. We first tried to change just the blower motor resistor since we thought that was the "easier" item to change. Here's the thing though, it is absolutely not an easy part to change at all. After 6 hours (Yes 6 actual hours of two men working) we finally got the resistor changed. And we still could not get the screw that holds it in place back in. We barely managed to get that screw taken out. So now my resistor is held in place with some 3m duct tape instead. Then we tested it. And the problem persisted. So the next thing to do which I didn't start for another month or so was the process of changing the blower motor. Let me tell you, it isn't a quick or easy process. Now, my van has a right hand drive aftermarket conversion on it for my job. So I had extra work that you likely won't have unless you're in the same profession as me. I had to remove the passenger seat (driver seat is already gone for me). Remove my right hand drive kit. Then to gain some extra working space I removed the top piece in the center of the dash so I could take the radio out. I then took the next trim piece out and then popped popped the shroud around the gear shift up so I could take the next trim piece off and finally the center console area trim panel out. Then I had to drop the BCM/fuse panel off of its mount on the passenger side (you will probably have to remove your glove box first. The PDF at the bottom might help you some too. Then I used a mini ratchet (may call it a stubby ratchet) and a long Torx T25 bit with a long extension and a endoscope/boroscope/whateveryoucallitscope to see what I was doing to get on the 3 screws around what I will call the cage around the blower motor. Once you get it out from under the driver side you will have to unplug the motor. And then you will need 2 people for sure for the next part. One person has to hold the unlocking tab from the driver side and the other person has to twist the blower motor itself clockwise 45 degrees from the passenger side. Then the blower motor will extract through the passenger side. Now for the replacement I remember hearing that because you need to be able to grab the motor you must use a Motorcraft replacement because the aftermarket ones don't have big enough holes in the fan to be able to hold on to it. But what you can do like with the Carquest Premium blower motor is take a small screwdriver and gently pry the locking tab off the end of the motor shaft. Then slide the fan blades off the shaft. Now re-mount the blower motor. Then slide the blades back onto the shaft noting that it is keyed to only let the blade slide on a certain way. Then press the locking tab back onto the shaft. Then basically reverse engineer what you did when taking it apart to put it back together. Now the way I got those screws back into those hard to reach areas was with using the scope to see and then dipping my T25 bit in some RTV silicone and then pressing the bit into the screw. Anything tacky or goopy like that should help hold the screw onto the bit without so that you can actually get it into those holes without it falling off the bit a million times. Conclusion: -- I now have my vehicle back together and it seems to be working correctly again. I have had it blowing for about 10 minutes without any sign of it slowing down and I hope it continues to work right. I believe the problem is that the brushes in the factory blower motor are cheap crap and burned up. I would rate this at least a 6-7/10 on the difficulty scale job. It requires a lot of time, a lot of patience, and a lot of painful contortionist movements to fix. I don't know what it would have cost me to have my mechanic do for me but I would guess he would have charged over $1000 for this job that cost me about $200 in parts. If you are reading this then I hope my write up has helped you because information on this particular problem seems quite sparse for these 2nd generation Transit Connects. I found plenty of videos detailing the change on the 1st gen models which seems like it was much easier to do. The video I mentioned several paragraphs ago blower moter removal.pdf

Update, after checking the grounds and voltages and finding a discrepancy between the live post on the battery and the ground on the body ie.12.7 v across the battery terminals and 9.8v on the body ground, result? No not really cleaned the connection convinced it was fixed but still the same problem, i am wondering now if it is a problem with the transponder ring. A few weeks ago i had the flashing light problem on the dash, immobiliser not working properly, i disconnected and re connected the battery a few times and it appeared to to fix the problem. light eventually stopped flashing. from then on I have the prolem described in my original post 3 or four cranks leave for a couple of minutes and starts and runs perfectly. If it were the ring, do i simply get another ring put it on and all's good or will a new ring need to be matched to the van? That is re programmed to the engine. If anyone has replaced a transponder ring perhaps they could advise me. Thanks for looking....

Hey all! Newbie here. I don't actually have a T/C just yet. Still saving up and hoping to get one next year. I am here to learn about tips and tricks, get ideas and gather info. I am wanting to get one as a motorcycle hauler and I think I will be looking for a '15-'18 model, something like that. Then build out the inside a touch. Maybe some Focus parts on there like seats and wheels. Stuff like that. Nice to meet you!

I am having the same issues, my high beams wont work, bulbs are fine, relay is fine. but when i turn on my high beams (as i discovered driving through the mountains this weekend) it just goes dark. Any suggestions 2012 ford transit connect

Sounds like the first thing is a good scan with Forscan or a good scantool. Pull The ABS Motor fuse and see if the lock up is stopped. Does it lock up if the brakes are used with the power off? keep us up dated, Thanks.

Hello fellow Ford transit connect owners 😉 Please advise me on this: ALL brake discs started to bind and get hot. When I pulled up to a junction - braked - went to pull forward ALL discs were brake locked for 15 seconds, when they did release still binding ??. I think it's the ABS / Hill assist valve failing to release and binding ???. Local garage think Master cylinder / Servo, having checked today... without ANY power on (engine not running and electrics OFF so NO servo assistance) van can be pushed freely...then as soon as brake pedal is pushed it locks all discs again for 20 seconds ??? IF it were master cylinder it would be either front or rear discs locking ... NOT all... Servo pressure isn't active without engine running???. PLEASE help what could it be ???. Van has only 48000 miles, very well maintained and faultless until now :-(. Thanks in advance 🙂

Hi Dave did you figure this issue out, i am having the same issue but the bulbs and relay seem to be good? Help haha

Problem solved. Initially, I thought I did something when I played with the yellow release handle. But the door handle itself has a cable that connects to the door latch along with another longer cable that unlocks the top latch on the door. The short cable frayed and broke by coincidence. I ordered and replaced the "actuator cable" myself because I had a short trip to make and my local dealer no doubt would have had me wait several weeks before they could replace it. The tools needed are Torx 20 and 30 bits and a small screwdriver. Once you have the door inside panel off, remove the outer handle by removing the small black cover and unscrew the handle cover with the T20. Then once the cover is off, slide the handle toward the removed cover and it will come out. Use a T20 to remove one screw that holds the inner handle and three T30 screws on the latch itself. Unhook the electric cable to the lock actuator (tough to do without damaging it or the tab it's mounted to) and work the two pieces out of the hole in the panel. The screwdriver can help to unhook the cable on both ends and replace the broken cable. Reverse procedure to mount everything.

Sorry for the late reply but I wasn’t home yes I saw the sub menu for parking but I do not have that sub menu… I really want the beep !!

Hello,i have a 2011 transit connect 1.8 tdci and my engine makes some kind of a weird vibration when its idling and if i turn on the winshield heater the vibration stops,i was thinking its from the alternator but i just figured i would ask prior to taking everything apart,thanks in advance. here is a youtube video showing the problem :

A rodent (squirrel) chewed up the engine wiring on my 2016 Transit Connect with 96k miles. It was repaired at the time but not well enough and I want to improve on it. Spark plug/coil wires were chewed through and others damaged to the point where engine would not run at all. Emergency repair was done at an independent shop. Now one year later another wire broke atop the engine, connected to an unknown sensor. The engine starts and runs but gas mileage is way down, to ~20 mpg. I would like to either replace the wiring harness section or splice a section in. I would either buy the needed section from Ford or else pull from a parts car at the local Pick-N-Pull. Which other vehicles would be a suitable donor? Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Maybe there is a thread in the archives which would be helpful but I haven't found it, especially re: compatible vehicles. There are not many TC's in the junkyard. I think the Fusion may have the same engine, maybe some Mazda?

I wouldn't think they would have changed it in the '22 compared to my '18, but in mine it is behind and under the glove box at the firewall and against the center of the dash protrusion. Look for a vertical black plastic door that may (or in my case did not) still have a screw locking it in place. You squeeze a couple of tabs and pull that door off (again as long as there isn't a screw holding it in) and the filter is behind that. I honestly don't know if you need to remove the glove box to get at it or not because my TC is a mail van that has been converted to right hand drive and so my glove box is already permanently removed. You can see the opening for the filter in this picture with the red arrows pointing at it. However please note that this picture is one I took in the process of having to change my blower motor so currently I have other stuff removed from down there too - notably the cage that normally covers the blower motor and to my best guess must be what changes whether the system is in recirculate mode or not.

Pressing the switch on the tailgate sends a GND signal to the BCM to tell the BCM to open the tailgate. If your connectors are differnt from the 2016 wiring diagram you will have to do some testing to find the right wires. First, find the wire going to the BCM from the tailgate switch. Measure each wire with a voltmeter. Find the one that goes from 12V to 0V when the switch is pressed. Next, find a ground wire. Use the resistance setting on your voltmeter to measure 0 ohms between a metal ground point and the wire. If you are not sure of the proper ground wire then you can connect to any piece of metal on the tailgate for a ground. Connect one terminal on your new switch to the GND point (or wire) and the other terminal to the BCM wire you found in the fist step. When you press the new switch the BCM wire should go from 12V to 0V and the tailgate latch should activate (tailgate has to be closed to activate).

And I have an XLT but it is the cargo version but I just I cannot figure out a way to get them to turn on

Okay. I'll give it one last try. Have you consulted the 2021 User's Manual? Below is a link to an online version from Ford. https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=7828&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G2082624&ProcUid=G2082625&userMarket=USA&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web If you look at the MENU settings, there is a SUB MENU called DRIVER ASSIST and a MENU ITEM for REAR PARKING AID. I'd check that out. Perhaps you can turn ON/OFF the Parking Aid system via the MENU. Under Parking Aid discussion, it says there's a PARKING AID BUTTON to switch off but that button isn't referenced in the instrument cluster detail. Below is a screen shot of that.

Thats what I want the warning beepers.. I can get my 2021 to beep.. I am pretty sure it has the sensors but they’re not beeping?? is there a setting somewhere I’ve tried everything

Well unfortunately my 2021 does not have that button but I appreciate you trying to help

Okay. The only idea I have is that my 2015 has a switch on the dash to turn off the Parking Aid audible beeping. Perhaps yours is turned off and that explains why you don't hear the beeping. Worth checking out. Below is a screen grab from the 2015 Owner's Manual showing where the switch is located (L). Your 2021 has an updated dash but I'm sure the switch is still available. Good luck!

Thanks… I have sensors and a backup camera I just wand THE BEEPING My 2014 is for sale There is no audio audible alert and I really like the audible alert better than the visual. I’m not exactly sure what you’re saying I was wondering if there’s a setting that I don’t know about or if this particular vehicle just doesn’t have it?

No idea why the axle gets replaced too. Listed on the receipt as a CV joint/axle. I peered underneath, looks like a new left axle. Shop was able to get CarMax to pay for that part of the repair, so I'm all good. Guessing it's possible an improper shape/profile of the axle at the sealing point could be the issue that causes the failure? In which case replacing just the seal would not be a sufficient long-term repair. The full synthetic fluid is very nice. Down in the 30s here this morning, shifting was still silky smooth. Will be interesting to see how well it works in Jan/Feb here, which can get down to -20.

Okay on your 2014. Nice handywork in turning that into a camper van. I don't see any parking aid sensors in the front bumper of the 2014 pic you posted. The van may have had an option for rear only or front and rear sensors. Perhaps your van only has rear sensors. A pic of the rear side would confirm. Take a look at your 2021 and see if there are sensors in the front and rear bumpers.

My rear double doors have a problem. My right hand door handle suddenly doesn't work. I can open the rear door using the yellow emergency handle, but now the outside door handle does nothing. I hear the door lock actuator working. Is there something I'm missing?

What kind of battery did you get?

My 2014 is for sale There is no audio audible alert and I really like the audible alert better than the visual. I’m not exactly sure what you’re saying I was wondering if there’s a setting that I don’t know about or if this particular vehicle just doesn’t have it?