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Yes, it is probably from the foam filled bags within the driver side front and passenger side front fenders. I removed these bags entirely and the foam never re-appeared within the squirrel cage.

My droning loud blower noise was some loose foam in blower cage. 2020 TC

Is the engine running different than it has in the past? Is there any sign of contamination in the oil? If the answer is no then a code scan is in order. Then a static pressure test of the cooling system would be next. How many miles are on the TC? The Head gasket replacement will be a sizeable job Involving the front engine cover and cam shaft timing chains , Intake and exhaust manifold removal. It could include a valve job for the head . All the hoses and water pump need to be checked and the radiator end caps need to be looked at. If nothing obvious is found 1/2 a bottle of this won't hurt and could save the Day. I have used this as a permanent fix more than once! Good luck and update us when you can.

For some owners, this key chart will apply. I believe that this chart is about a decade old. Newer cars made in the last 10 years will have a different type of key.

Transponder keys have an RFID chip inside of the key. That is recognized by a reader near the ignition. It can be cloned. You can buy a key blank, copy your key for the physical lock tumblers, and then electronically clone the RFID of your key. The car will see both keys as the same key. There are different things that can be done with the electronic key identification by the car's passive anti theft system. With a Ford IDS computer, or a Snap On computer, it is possible to delete individual keys, delete all keys, program new keys, etc. Most dealerships, automotive locksmiths, and some independent mechanics, will know how to do this. In The USA, you have the right to repair. Key blanks and key fobs are easily found online, and in retail stores. Any hardware store or shoe repair shop can manually duplicate the cuts on a key. You can certainly buy a Ford IDS computer or a Snap On computer. Key clone tools are readily available from locksmith suppliers, and even on Amazon and eBay.

The door locking/latch/switch is one integrated part. Door ajar…chattering locking and about 3 other things are caused by this assembly charles

will i need these to install the seat in in 2017 cargo van??

Yeah, you need the transponder in order to start the vehicle. There are smaller non-button chip-keys you could get but you need a locksmith or the dealership to cut and program it. Running around with 1 working key isn't a great idea either. If you lose your only key, most Fords need 2 keys cut and programmed at minimum to get going

just bought seats $300 from auto parts from 2014. yay! this transit connect is short wheel base also.

Hi All, Long time runner of a 2014 Ford Transit Connect 2.5L naturally aspirated Gasoline Engine Not long ago, perhaps a year ago (2023) during the winter-time, I had loss of heat unless I was either revving the engine or driving it. Upon an inspection of the coolant reservoir, I denoted it was low on coolant. A quick top-up of less than 800ml or ~20oz of pre-mixed formula and the levels came back up to what the coolant reservoir indicated was a filled system. I was then able to get heat any time the engine was running. Fast forward to this year (2025) and now my coolant is yet again low... I still have the pre-mixed jug of coolant which I did a top up with but I suspect whatever leak I had initially has now degraded to a worse point than what I initially had. I've basically had the same symptoms as last time, coolant indicator on my dash says she's hot but I only get hot air if I have the engine revving higher or I'm driving. I've already done 2 top ups from what I thought I needed although it was parked in such a way that perhaps the angle made my understanding of how much filling I needed to do was incorrect. I do not see any kinds of obvious leaks which would be from the coolant system, at least from what I can tell. Before I go down the path alone to check out the various possibilities, I was wondering if anyone else has run into this issue before and if so what they found the problem was. My mechanic denoted that he has run into this issue in the past and used a "radiator leak stop" with some kind of success but I do not have a lot of faith in leak-stops providing me what I need in terms of a proper fix. His guess was something to do with the Head Gasket, which he claimed would easily be $1K-$2K between parts and labour. Personally, I have seen some head gaskets available online, I'd be more apt to take a crack at doing it myself provided it wasn't too complex. Which leads me to my last query to know if anyone else has done the head gasket repair themselves and how they went about doing so.

Hello @windguy Just wanted to write back and say thank-you for the additional information for those parts. I ended up ordering two of those lights and placing them in the back of my cargo van. Both have been in operation for well over a year and a half. No failures in the light, seems it was constructed better than whatever cheapo stuff was available on the market. Fingers crossed they continue to work for years to come.

Sorry for the late reply. My TC is a 2016 and it came with the seats. You may find that adding seats will require some metal work and/or welding. Can you find a TC that you can rent to see the configuration?

good afternoon, does anyone know anything about a parking aid malfunction on the 2014 connect please ? you can hear the reverse sensors kick in when you put the van in reverse but sensors wont work

My cargo came with a single incandescent bulb in the cargo area with a blank unwired mount in the other side. The configurator offered a €70 LED upgrade but I did not get it. Ordered a pair of LEDs from Aliexpress for €15 and ran an extension cable from the original spot. Very bright.

Hi all, new to the forum and recently bought a 17 plate connect Limited which starts but won`t `rev up/drive.From research it seems the accelerator pedal is a common cause so i`ve bought a new one but wanted to know the procedure of replacing and resetting ECU. Has anyone had experience with this?

An alternate solution that's reasonable and perhaps responsible as well is to use FORSCAN software loaded on a laptop, tablet, phone. The interface to the ODB port is a dongle that's below $100. Some dongles have a USB port, others are Bluetooth interface. Search this forum for FORSCAN and you'll find more info and the FORSCAN forum as well. Good luck!

Does anyone know if they make a responsible (less than $100) priced real time obd2 display especially one that shows transmission temperature? TIA Andy

A lot of probabilities. Somebody needs to do an inspection. If you are not capable of performing your own diagnostics, then a good mechanic is needed. You don't want everyone online giving you wild guesses about the various computer modules which control different functions, the electrical relays and fuses, the wiring harnesses and connectors, squirrels and rats chewing on wires, water intrusion shorting out electronics............

What year is your TC? I have a 2018 and I'm not finding yellow caliper covers for that year....mostly 2014-2017. thanks

Hi all. UK member with a 2015 Connect. Firstly, thank you to all of those who have provided info and help for this great resource forum. Iv’e been lurking for many months and gaining info in the past but after an extensive search, I can’t get the bottom of this particular issue. Over night the issue happened. I have no dash or centre console illumination. No gauges work (speedo, fuel, temp.), there is no digital display in the dash. Exterior lights and indicators work. Heater and windscreen heater work. Interior lighting works. Central locking works. Van starts and drives fine. Radio doesn't work on ignition but will work if you operate it prior to ignition for the one hour as it would if keys were not present. All fuses in both fuse boxes are intact. A day later the battery died, I thought this was the issue, replaced with new battery but problem still exists. I don't have a dedicated code reader so got it booked into a local garage next week. Don't want to have to taken it to Ford if at all possible. The BCM comes upon searches, are there ways of confirming/ruling it out? Thanks in advance. Tim

2013 Ford Transit Connect: Headlamps H13 Turn lamp indicator (front) 3457NAK Turn lamp indicator (rear) WY21W Side marker lamp W5W LL Side repeater lamp 194NA Front fog lamp H11 Brake and tail lamps W21/5W Backup lamp W21W Rear fog lamp W21W License plate lamp W5W LL High-mount brake lamp LED Dome lamps (front and rear) 211 Reading lamps W5W Source: 2013 Transit Connect Owner Manual Pg.200

wonderful how to, and very helpful, thanks. I am, however, struggling with line 12 I have removed nearly everything on top of the engine, and am in the process of removing the 'cam cover'. there is a bolt hidden under the top rear timing cover, and also one sideways from the inner timing cover into the cam cover, which is behind the crankshaft pully, and I cannot get to it. do I need to remove the pully to remove it? what would best practice be for that?

Thanks Don for the pics and the info! this gives me hope again. i will have to lift the black plate and take a look. maybe the front mounts are there after all. What year are your seats and what year is you ford transit connect? I found below mounts. do i any of need these? also found these transit 2nd row seats below but the mountings look different than yours. need to know how to get the seats like yours and how to mount them. I found

Yes, I have the SWB van. The brackets for the front of the seat assy appear to be welded on the higher section of the floor (not under your black plate). Ignore the wires in the photo. They are for aftermarket heated seats.