DonShockley

My 2020 turns off after around 2 hours. I tested it once by checking periodically after parking. IIRC, it was still running after the 1.5 hour point, but when I checked it shortly after 2 hours it was off. So I've always assumed a 2 hour delay and have never had battery drain issues. But I'm just using a pretty basic dashcam with fairly low power draw.

I needed a cheap one for a single trip and a twin size from Academy fit well and worked fine. Not sure on long term durability but at $20 just the one trip would have been enough. https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/intex-dura-beam-twin-size-airbed-with-built-in-ac-pump?sku=twin-mattress

No, the metal nozzle isn't movable. You can change where it hits the glass Left-Center-Right by pulling it out and rotating it before reinserting, but that's it.

I did a test on my 2020 several months ago to see how long the outlet stayed powered after shutting off the ignition. Checked every 15 minutes or so and it shut off right around the 2 hour mark.

Don't see much detailed responses on Facebook. Just the typical quick mentions of "try this" "might be that" in response to questions posted. Seems more the casual user as compared to responses here. Users here seem more dedicated to digging in and getting answers that often even the dealers don't know since individual TC sales are few and far between. Facebook has more exposure, so more chance of something new and unique, but so far I haven't noticed anything new there that I hadn't already seen here.

I haven't looked closely at my 2020 TC, but when I was adding accessories to my 2015 TC via the rear Aux Junction Box, the extra wiring just wasn't there. I had assumed a similar situation to what you describe, a fairly universal harness with options connected as needed. But in the fuse boxes, I found that although the supply side of the fuse was present in the box (due to using a fixed metal bus bar), if the option wasn't in my 2015 then there was no wire at all installed on the other side of the fuse opening. Given the more difficult access and tight quarters on the 2020 fuse boxes, I suspect it's even worse which is why I haven't gotten around to digging into it yet. I likely will just add a small aux box direct to the battery when I have the need.

The OP links at Mouser have smaller quantities available. If you search the part numbers, one has a cut strip of 100 available for $23 and the other part is available for $0.45 each individually. Here's the links for those directily. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-968857-3-CUT-STRIP?qs=2FIyTMJ0hNlSKAxLPJ6TfQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1-968859-3-Loose-Piece?qs=u4fy%2FsgLU9NmCbrZBWoJHA%3D%3D When I did my own solution, I ended up spending about $300 in total because most of the small parts I needed had minimum quantities of 100. So in the end I had enough parts to do 20 or so kits and ended up passing on several to other forum members. In addition to Mouser, another supplier I used for small parts was Jameco Electronis. Although I was mostly using them for computer parts so I am not sure on how well stocked they may be for automotive needs.

One of the first RAM Mount solutions I tried was to address exactly this issue. It has a base that attaches using one of your existing seat mounting bolts. Pull the bolt, put it through the RAM mount, and reinstall. It worked well on my prior vehicle and for just phone holding worked fine on my Transit Connect. The only drawback was the need to slide the passenger seat fully forward to access the storage compartment underneath. The seat would hang up on the mount. The mount I posted above started out using that prior floor mount. I just removed the riser pole from the base and then swapped out the universal phone holder for the wireless charger. But the floor mount using the seat bolt was very firm and bending the pole to reach where I wanted it worked well. And while I was using it, passengers said it was not obtrusive. It was only the large seat movement that started hitting it and made me switch.

Here's some photos from this forum back in 2016 that I copied when I thought they might come in useful for working on my 2015. My apologies to the member who did the original post but I didn't think to make a notation at the time. Based on the file names I gave them at the time, they were from a 2015 cargo version.

My 2020 TC Wagon has the charging cubby so I didn't move the rig in my 2015 TC Wagon over to the new one. But here's a photo of how I had it rigged in my 2015. There's also a couple other photos of how I used RAM parts for other needs in my TC. Almost all the parts are from RAM Mounts, except the wireless charger/holder which was from Tylt. But now RAM has it's own wireless charger/holders so now you can build it all from RAM parts. That's the biggest reason I like RAM, you can mix and match components to meet your specific need. They've got a lot better parts now, including mounting rails with slidable T-fittings. I've only occasionally regretted having my phone in the charging cubby and the screen not visible so I haven't felt the need to install a new RAM rig. But if I do, I'll likely be able to reuse many of the old removed parts and can just add the few new parts that may be useful.

My 2015 had one there but my 2020 does not. Same style and model on both, just upgraded convenience features on the 2020.

Here's my receipt from that purchase at the dealer. Also a photo showing how short the dumb key is once you remove the plastic at the end. Fits much better in a wallet that way.

This morning I did my biggest fill ever (including my prior 2015 TC) on my 2020 after skipping my weekly fill up last week. Ran with the low fuel warning on since yesterday and it showing I was down to 8 miles to empty with the needle solidly into the "E" on the guage. Fill was 14.487 US gallons.

If you just want one to open the doors but not actually start the car, there is a "dumb" key available. I always get one to put in my wallet just in case I accidentally lock my actual key set in the vehicle. Only ever needed it once, but that was well worth the price. But if you just want to seperate the parts on an existing fob, they come apart easy enough. There's a screw unter the pry-off battery cover.

I'll have to figure out where I put them but I can send you a kit of parts you can use to make a free standing triple fuse block. Here's a photo of how I did mine on my old 2015. That setup sued three individual taps but you could just as easily use one tap for the supply, daisy chain it to all three fuses, use one output for the return line to the original fuse output and the other 2 for extra circuits.