nhcurmudgeon Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Want to run a 12 guage wire from the battery to a deep cycle battery and West Mountain power isolator in the cargo area. If I can find a chassis ground in the cargo area, I will need only the hot lead; otherwise both hot (fused, red) and ground (black). Anyone have any suggestions on the best (easiest?) routing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
103west43rd Posted July 20, 2012 Share Posted July 20, 2012 Here is the URL for the electrical diagram for the Transit Connect. It is from a previous posting, from whom, I forget, but will credit as soon as I find out who. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2010/2010_Transit_Connect.pdf The diagram shows the best ground terminals. As for routing the cable, I have used the channels along the left side of the Transit Connect rather than down the center. The left side because I have run my various cables through the plugs above the pedals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhcurmudgeon Posted July 23, 2012 Author Share Posted July 23, 2012 Thanks for the info. Like you I was thinking the left side of the vehicle. I have located one of the plugs above the pedals, so I am good to go for the hot wire. I guess the channels along the left side to which you refered are under the plastic molding (have to get some Torx screwdrivers). According to the document you referenced, there are two ground points in the left A pillar. I haven't figured out how to access either one yet. Maybe I'll check out the Left combined Rear Lamp Ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbiby Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 nhcurmudgeon, did you have nay luck finding the ground lug? Interested too in the path you took for the hot wire. I'm likely doing the same project; extra battery to power amateur radios. Thanks! N3UW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhcurmudgeon Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 richbiby, I haven't located the ground lug in the A pillar (the one in the document cited earlier), but I did locate one behind the rear left light assembly. It is readily accessible -- got the details from the instructions for installing an aftermarket back up camera. That being said, I haven't got the wires run yet nor have I installed my isolator and auxiliary battery. Too many other higher priority projects at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OneBulletDan Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 The aux battery will charge much quicker (supposedly) if you run the ground wire from main to aux. Cost a bit more, but it's working fine in my setup. Here's the link I went by: http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beta Don Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 When used to link two batteries together, I would not consider a #12 to be 'heavy gauge' by any definition. As is pointed out in the link Dan provided, a #6 should be the minimum and it does say larger would be even better. If the auxiliary battery is at all depleted, the alternator would try to put 50 amps or more on that charge wire and the resistance in 20 feet of #12 wire would cause it to drop several volts (the actual number for 20 feet of #12 and a 50 amp charge would be a drop of 4 volts - The same calculations for #6 would be 1/10th that, or just 0.4 volts) which would not only delay the charging, but it would also cause the wire to heat up. Unless your auxiliary battery is very small, such as a 4 to 6 AH motorcycle battery, I would really look at running a large gauge wire. I don't see any problem running a single hot wire so long as you have a good ground connection in the cargo area for the negative wire Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 I agree about the wiring. I've seen guys using 1/0 for that application. 12 AWG is fine for hooking up a 15 amp outlet in your house, or installing a patio fixture. In the old days, I liked it for off-road lighting for halogen lamps at 100 watts. I also ran 12 gauge for installing electric fan sets. But I wouldn't go with less than 4 gauge for an auxiliary battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 (edited) The Bigger the better. Make sure the wire is fused on both ends so it can't become a very High amp short to ground. Edited October 23, 2016 by G B L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zalienz Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Lots of good info in this thread. I've been thinking about adding a aux AGM battery to the rear of my cargo van as well. Follow that link OneBulletDan added, there is a ton of really good information there, can't go wrong. Use the voltage sensing isolator. Make sure to fuse both battery positive wires. I wouldn't think of using anything smaller than 4 gauge wire for that application. I would also run the negative wire all the way back to the cranking battery rather than a chassis ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Maybe I should start a new topic entirely. But what kind of battery are you guys thinking about adding? Brand? Motorcraft? Interstate? It does not appear as if Optima makes a battery for under the hood, but you could use an Optima as a secondary. Will you stick to using the same OEM group size, or something different? Who is actually installing a battery box, as opposed to simply strapping a battery to the floor? Let's see some plans, drawings, and photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zalienz Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 If I decide to do this I will probably go with something like this: http://lifelinebatteries.com/products/rv-batteries/ I will need to determine load to decide on how large of a battery based on amp/hours. These AGM's are really heavy and not cheap. A battery box would be ideal. I'm still in the planning stage. Also still waiting for the 2017 wiring diagram to be published, can't really get too excited until I have the correct information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beta Don Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Of course the capacity of the battery you use should be based on the amp draw of the load you intend it to run and how many hours you expect to need it between when the engine is shut off and when it will be started again. For running a small portable refrigerator or other light loads, an AGM motorcycle battery may be all you'd need. An AGM is an excellent choice because they are sealed and there's no chance of a spill and they can also be more deeply discharged than a standard flooded battery without harming them. An AGM for a Honda Gold Wing is about 17.5 amp hours and these are only 4 inches or so wide and not too heavy. You can get one for $100 to $125. I think there might be room in a passenger van to put one behind the panels in front of the tail lights, completely hidden away. Strap it down securely wherever you decide to mount it As someone mentioned earlier, be sure you fuse the positive wire both at the vehicle battery under the hood and at the auxiliary battery where ever you choose to mount it - If that #6 (or larger) wire somehow gets pinched and the conductor makes contact with the van's chassis, the power in either battery could cause the wire to completely melt and very likely cause a fire Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zalienz Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Agreed Beta Don. Wow, I'm looking back at the original post.... it was over 4 years ago, time for a new thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 On 7/20/2012 at 1:58 PM, 103west43rd said: Here is the URL for the electrical diagram for the Transit Connect. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2010/2010_Transit_Connect.pdf Does anyone have all this information available for the current generation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Looks like I found my own answer. https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2016/2016_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Unfortunately, I have a hard time reading these drawings that I find via Google..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Then I find random things like this: 2014 Ford Transit Connect Alarm Install Information Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Yellow and Red Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Green 2-Pin Plug) Starter Positive Wire (+): Blue/White Starter Positive Wire Location: At Ignition Switch Wire Harness (Black 7-Pin Plug) Second Starter Positive Wire (+): N/A Second Starter Positive Wire Location: N/A Ignition Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow Ignition Positive Wire Location: At Ignition Switch Wire Harness (Black 7-Pin Plug) Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): N/A Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: N/A Third Ignition Positive Wire (+): N/A Third Ignition Positive Wire Location: N/A Accessory Positive Wire (+): Purple/Green Accessory Positive Wire Location: At Ignition Switch Wire Harness (Black 7-Pin Plug) Second Accessory Positive Wire (+): N/A Second Accessory Positive Wire Location: N/A Key Sense Wire: N/A Key Sense Wire Location: N/A Parking Light Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Parking Light Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Blue 60-Pin Plug) Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Blue (Left) and Brown/Yellow (Right) Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Green 42-Pin Plug) Power Door Lock Negative Wire (-): Gray/Yellow Power Door Lock Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Brown 60-Pin Plug) Power Door Unlock Negative Wire (-): Purple/Gray Power Door Unlock Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Blue 60-Pin Plug) Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): White/Brown Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: Connect to Dome Light Supervision Dome Light Supervision Wire (+): White/Brown Dome Light Supervision Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Gray 20-Pin Plug) Trunk Release Negative Wire (-): Brown Trunk Release Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Brown 60-Pin Plug) Sliding Power Door Wire: N/A Sliding Power Door Wire Location: N/A Horn Negative Wire (-): Purple/Green Horn Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Green 42-Pin Plug) Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Green/Blue Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At Any Fuel Injector (Black 8-Pin Plug) Wait To Start Wire: N/A Wait To Start Location: N/A Brake Light Positive Wire (+): Green/Red Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Green 42-Pin Plug) Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): N/A Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A Factory Anti-Theft System: Ford Transponder Anti-Theft System (Requires Bypass Module) Factory Anti-Theft System Location: At Ignition Tumbler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 2016 Ford Transit Connect Security Wiring Chart Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Yellow and RedBattery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Green 2-Pin Plug) Starter Positive Wire (+): Blue/White Starter Positive Wire Location: At Ignition Switch Wire Harness (Black 7-Pin Plug) Second Starter Positive Wire (+): N/A Second Starter Positive Wire Location: N/A Ignition Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow Ignition Positive Wire Location: At Ignition Switch Wire Harness (Black 7-Pin Plug) Second Ignition Positive Wire (+): N/A Second Ignition Positive Wire Location: N/A Third Ignition Positive Wire (+): N/A Third Ignition Positive Wire Location: N/A Accessory Positive Wire (+): Purple/Green Accessory Positive Wire Location: At Ignition Switch Wire Harness (Black 7-Pin Plug) Second Accessory Positive Wire (+): N/A Second Accessory Positive Wire Location: N/A Key Sense Wire: N/A Key Sense Wire Location: N/A Parking Light Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Parking Light Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Blue 60-Pin Plug) Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Yellow/Blue (Left) and Brown/Yellow (Right) Parking Light Positive Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Green 42-Pin Plug) Power Door Lock Negative Wire (-): Gray/Yellow Power Door Lock Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Brown 60-Pin Plug) Power Door Unlock Negative Wire (-): Purple/Gray Power Door Unlock Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Blue 60-Pin Plug) Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): White/Brown Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: Connect to Dome Light Supervision Dome Light Supervision Wire (+): White/Brown Dome Light Supervision Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Gray 20-Pin Plug) Trunk Release Negative Wire (-): Brown Trunk Release Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Brown 60-Pin Plug) Sliding Power Door Wire: N/A Sliding Power Door Wire Location: N/A Horn Negative Wire (-): Purple/Green Horn Negative Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Green 42-Pin Plug) Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Green/Blue Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At Any Fuel Injector (Black 8-Pin Plug) Wait To Start Wire: N/A Wait To Start Location: N/A Brake Light Positive Wire (+): Green/Red Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At BCM Module Behind the Glove Box (Green 42-Pin Plug) Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): N/A Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: N/A Factory Anti-Theft System: Ford Transponder Anti-Theft System (Requires Bypass Module) Factory Anti-Theft System Location: At Ignition Tumbler DonShockley 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beta Don Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 I have the Ford book of wiring diagrams for a 2014 model - It's more than 300 pages. I bought it on eBay for less than $20 Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ICFND6C/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me= 2016 Ford Transit Connect Wiring Diagram Manual Original Paperback – 2016 by Ford (Author) Be the first to review this item See all formats and editions Paperback from $71.691 New from $71.69 Note: This item is only available from third-party sellers (see all offers). Pretty expensive for a paperback. Anything I plan on installing, I can always grab power from the battery, and use fuses, circuit breakers, relays, and switches. If anything breaks down, to the point where I need a wiring diagram to fix it myself.....well, the car is still under warranty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jh90731 Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 just joined and glad I found this post. We've have 3 TC's we use for our business. We run a small VIAIR air compressor in the left rear of each van. In the '11 and the '13 it was no problem finding a way to route the 10 gauge wire to supply the 30 amps to the left rear of the cargo area but I'm having problems trying to find a good routing in the '15. Haven't been able to find the same rubber plug on the firewall of the '15 that I routed the wire through in the other 2. The body panels and firewall seem to be "tighter" in the '15. Anyone have any suggestions or know of a 30 amp supply already in the rear area? This is the basic cargo model. Thanks, Jose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 JH, I'll have to look out for your van in The City. You'll know its me, if you pull up behind me, and see the 2 LED lights mounted above the license plate. Try powering your air compressor from the auxiliary junction box. It's in the passenger side rear quarter panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fifty150 Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 On 10/26/2016 at 11:53 AM, Beta Don said: It's more than 300 pages. I bought it on eBay for less than $20 Don Let me save you a dollar. You can tear out one page in the book. Tail lamp, brake lamp, reverse lamp, turn indicator, and rear marker........ALL WIRES ARE BLACK! Thank you, Ford Engineers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Hey remember Henry Ford once said you can have any color you want if its Black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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