money_bagski Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wDhH20cwX-0" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted January 18, 2022 Author Share Posted January 18, 2022 Roam Free Campers and BSJBSJ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 I bought these roof rails off of Amazon Crown Remanufacturing to fit Ford Transit/Tourneo Connect LWB Roof Rails+Cross Bars Full Set 2014+ (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D715JS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_Y0Z4WF61H0QGTB2A830K I initially installed them about a year ago. Since then I discovered that they leak. So I uninstalled them and used some butyl tape to prevent the leaking. I also discovered a small amount of rust under the plastic pieces. I sanded and repainted. I think the trick is to not over tighten. I put some lock tight blue on the bolts and just snugged it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 The key line pro isolator stopped working when I switched to lithium battery. The lithium battery rests above the cut off of the isolator so the isolator stayed connected until enough juice transferred back to the start battery to drop the voltage below 12.8. My solution was to use a wired relay. When the engine is running the relay connects the 2 batteries and disconnects as soon as you turn off the engine. There are people out there who swear that charging lithium batteries off the alternator will ruin the alternator. They claim that because the lithium doesn’t resist a charge that the battery will suck up more juice than it should. I obviously don’t believe that. I connected my battery charging cable to an open 80 amp spot on the van (see earlier post) which means that anything it does has to be played by the ECU. I will of course report back if I blow up my alternator in the middle of nowhere. I tapped into the big yellow wire on the passenger side. It powers something right behind the passenger sliding door inside the van. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 I got tired of looking at the bare walls so I decided to do something about it. For almost 3 years I had considering how to attach panels to the wall without losing headroom (I’m 6’ 3”). I decided on 1” foam insulation board decoupaged with fabric and held in place with the decorative duct tape. Since I was covering up the walls, I decided to go ahead and do 18 sq ft of kilmat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 After working in the van for 2 days with minimal driving my battery was practically dead. I had a 2 hour drive ahead of me so I thought it was the perfect time to measure charging effectiveness. After the first hour of driving I had gone from 12.2 to 12.5v. After the second hour it got to 12.7v. I was disappointed. I expected to be at 13.5v —full. The next morning I woke up and turned on my led light connected to the battery. Nothing. I couldn’t believe it. The voltmeter/usb outlet light was off. I was worried that the vehicle battery may have been impacted. Strangely as soon as I entered the key in the ignition the voltmeter turned on at 11.7v. My understanding was that entering the key did nothing and I had to actually have the engine running to connect the batteries via the relay. I drove 2 miles and it was somehow back to 13.1 which quickly settled to 12.9. I am very confused. Maybe the bms shut off the battery during the night for some reason? Maybe my relay isn’t working as intended? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted March 6, 2022 Author Share Posted March 6, 2022 I could get the weize to work and was able to return it. Disillusioned with lithium I went with 2 225 ah flooded lead acid 6v batteries wired in series. I have more than twice the ah, for a little less money. Downside is of course weight, longevity and water maintenance. I’m ok with it considering I’ve ruined 2 batteries already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted March 6, 2022 Author Share Posted March 6, 2022 The height of the GC2 batteries (golf cart) is a bit of an issue. You have to choose a battery that will clear the floor piece. Long term plan is to replace the entire supporting structure down there to give me easier access and more room. And a wood floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackGrimshaw Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 Aren't you concerned with off gassing when charging those batteries? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted March 6, 2022 Share Posted March 6, 2022 I don't think any of the 2.5L engines have a battery monitoring system. I you have a small wire connected to the negative terminal on your battery, then you have a BMS. This wire and small module on it measures the current going in or out of the battery. BMS would be problematic for adding house batteries because it calculates the battery health and tries to hold the state of charge to 80% maximum. If you don't have a battery charger, you should get one. You can get a 3 or 5 amp trickle-type charger for under $100. I use a Noco Genius. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted March 9, 2022 Author Share Posted March 9, 2022 The fear of toxic fumes was too much for me so I returned the GC2s and bought 4 75 AH AGMs. The plastic step doesn’t fit anymore so I’ll have to extend the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted January 3, 2023 Author Share Posted January 3, 2023 We all know Ford was not thinking clearly when they made the storage space under the floor impossible to get to. And then when you get to it, it uses space inefficiently (as far as campervans are concerned). I ripped out the front support beam that takes up so much space and replaced it with a custom support beam made out of recycled bed frames (with the help of my Dad). Then I built a floor on top of it in 4 sections. In hindsight the floor should have utilized the van floor instead of more angle iron. The side supports are cut to shape and held in place with more bed frame (angle iron) I have to move the seat all the way forward to access, but it provides nifty storage. I eventually finished the side supports with wood stain and gloss. I cut the original van floormat to not overlap the plywood, then I put a layer of mass loaded vinyl MLV on top of it all. Van is currently in the shop. Will post more photos later upon request. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
money_bagski Posted January 3, 2023 Author Share Posted January 3, 2023 For some reason Ford filled the area under the seat with a 4" thick foam material. I ripped the foam out from both driver and passenger sides and covered with kilmat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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