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LESD

2015 TC transmission fluid change

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I need to change the transmission fluid on my 2015 TC. I see videos for the 2014 but they aren't the same. Can someone shed some light on this, I'm not taking it to a dealer.

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There's a drain plug on the bottom. The fill cap on top is next to the air filter box, and hidden from plain sight, beneath the radiator hose.  There's also a fill port on the side for measuring fill level.  You can use a container with volume level indicator to catch the drained fluid, mark the level, then refill with the same volume.  A paint store will sell plastic buckets in different sizes, which are marked for liters and quarts.

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Use Low Viscosity transmission fluid.  Different brands, including Ford MotorCraft, have LV fluid.

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I saw a plug on the side of the transmission on the drivers side but compared to a 2014 TC it's in a different spot, it's lower on the side of the transmission. I'll have to dig around and locate that fill cap. The drain plug was the easy part to find lol.

Edited by LESD

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Thanks for the pics. I'll take a look this morning.

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Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change.

The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench.

Trans Drain Plug Small.jpg ] Trans fill vent General Location Small.jpg Trans Vent Cap 1Small.jpg

This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in

[attacjpg] ] Trans funnel small.jpg

Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid.

Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts.

Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet

Trans Fluid Level indicator Plug Small.jpg

Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left

There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. 

Have fun! 

I  have changed the fluid 3 times at 25000 Mile intervals and the fluid in this trans works hard.

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5 hours ago, G B L said:

 

The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up.

 

 

 

My solution is to use UniJacks.  Buy four of them.  Your car will be perfectly supported, with all 4 jack points at the same height.  With a maximum lift height of 21 inches, you should have plenty of room to crawl under, safely, and do everything that you want to do.  

https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Powerbuilt/ALL620471.html

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5 hours ago, G B L said:

 

Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet

 

The only thing that I have to add to that would be, remove the breather cap and break the torque on the indicator plug first.  Make sure that you can add fluid back in, before you drain anything out.  You don't want to drain the fluid first, only to find out later that the fill port cap or indicator plug is stuck.  

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For many years, most of the guys I knew used paint mix buckets.  Drain into a pint mix bucket, so that you can actually see how much came out.  Use a piece of blue painters tape on the outside of the bucket to mark the level.  Pour the used fluid into your recycling container.  Fill the bucket up to the line you just marked.  Then funnel the fluid from the bucket.  You will have refilled with exactly what came out.  Assuming that you don't have any leaks, and that your fluid level is correct, you should be fine.  You're looking for 4.7 quarts.  So a 5 quart may be a little small.  Go up to 10 quarts.  

 

Related image

 

Image result for 10 quart paint mix bucket

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5 hours ago, G B L said:

 

This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed

 

 

How does that cap remove?  Turn counter-clockwise?  Push down & turn?  Pull up and it should pop off?

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Twist and then pull, it is a friction fit.

And I have already showed you how I jack My TC up!image.png.c259289f189030cf732c20f50640ec0f.png

Edited by G B L

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On 10/19/2018 at 9:27 PM, G B L said:

Here is the post I did on the Transmission Change.

The hardest part of this operation will be getting the TC Jacked up. Should be almost level . Remove the Under body dust shield . Look for the Drain Plug. 11 mm or 7/16 wrench.

Trans Drain Plug Small.jpg ] Trans fill vent General Location Small.jpg Trans Vent Cap 1Small.jpg

This style funnel will slide down into the Vent plug you just removed Put 3 quarts of fluid in

[attacjpg] ] Trans funnel small.jpg

Run the TC for 5 to 10 minutes . Then drain the fluid again. Repeat this 2 more times You have Now used 9 quarts of fluid.

Put the Drain plug back in make it snug this time. Add 3 quarts of fluid You have now used 12 quarts.

Go under the car and Look for the indicator plug (14 mm wrench) Loosen the plug. Do not remove yet

Trans Fluid Level indicator Plug Small.jpg

Start the engine with the engine running and the Car in park pull the plug and add fluid into the funnel until it just drips out the Indicator hole Replace plug put the Dust shield on , Pull the funnel and replace the vent cap. Total Fluid 13 Qts. With most of number 13 left

There is no filter to change on this operation and the type of fluid is Mercon LV. 

Have fun! 

I  have changed the fluid 3 times at 25000 Mile intervals and the fluid in this trans works hard.

Great stuff are you positive that the engine has to be hot and running when you check the drain fill on the side that dribbles out and not cold not running??

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The engine needs to be on.  The transmission needs to be hot.  Engine heats up faster than transmission.  You will not get the right fluid level with a hot engine and cool transmission.  You need the transmission between 180 - 200.  The cooler bypass valve should be closed, so that transmission fluid is flowing through the oil to water heat exchanger.

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On 12/24/2019 at 6:31 PM, Fifty150 said:

The engine needs to be on.  The transmission needs to be hot.  Engine heats up faster than transmission.  You will not get the right fluid level with a hot engine and cool transmission.  You need the transmission between 180 - 200.  The cooler bypass valve should be closed, so that transmission fluid is flowing through the oil to water heat exchanger.

 

On 12/24/2019 at 6:31 PM, Fifty150 said:

The engine needs to be on.  The transmission needs to be hot.  Engine heats up faster than transmission.  You will not get the right fluid level with a hot engine and cool transmission.  You need the transmission between 180 - 200.  The cooler bypass valve should be closed, so that transmission fluid is flowing through the oil to water heat exchanger.

Ok thank you. I don't have a temperature guage so knowing the trans needs to be hot I will take it for a 10 mile drive then check it immediately when running. Thanks for all the pictures and info i was scared to do this but now I can deal with it..

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8 minutes ago, '14 Connect said:

 

Ok thank you. I don't have a temperature guage so knowing the trans needs to be hot I will take it for a 10 mile drive then check it immediately when running. Thanks for all the pictures and info i was scared to do this but now I can deal with it..

I actually think i might put 10 miles on it with every fill before i drain it so it circulates real good before draining instead of just letting the engine idle for 10 minutes.

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On 12/24/2019 at 6:31 PM, Fifty150 said:

The engine needs to be on.  The transmission needs to be hot.  Engine heats up faster than transmission.  You will not get the right fluid level with a hot engine and cool transmission.  You need the transmission between 180 - 200.  The cooler bypass valve should be closed, so that transmission fluid is flowing through the oil to water heat exchanger.

On another note as far as the correct fluid, everywhere basically in life reads Mercon LV required on the 2014 connect 2.5L 653N Tranny, it even says Mercon LV on the filler cap underneath the radiator hose next to air filter.. However right in my original owners manual, Blow the picture up all the way it says Motorcraft Dual Clutch XT-11-QDC is needed.. Wtf is that?? even on the 1.6L for that year is Mercon LV.. On the middle of the page it even contradicts itself saying Mercon LV... I literally was on my way out to get that dual clutch stuff and glad I didnt. I think that is some kind of mistake.

I was even trying to disable my auto lock system and the manual says press the lock button 3 times etc et,,c and it wouldn't disable,, I went Google online and it's you have to press the UNLOCK 3 times and low and behold its disabled now the right way,, ugh!!

thumbnail.jpg

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19 minutes ago, '14 Connect said:

Wtf is that??

Maybe a misprint.  

 

Get low viscosity fluid.

 

1 hour ago, '14 Connect said:

I don't have a temperature guage so knowing the trans needs to be hot I will take it for a 10 mile drive then check it immediately when running.

 

1 hour ago, '14 Connect said:

i might put 10 miles on it with every fill before i drain it so it circulates real good before draining instead of just letting the engine idle for 10 minutes.

 

An OBD II reader and free software can efficiently do more than you need.  You no longer have to buy $$$$ scanner which a professional uses.  Many applications allow your cellphone to display transmission fluid temperature.  

 

10 miles may, or may not, bring the fluid to correct temperature.  10 miles will ensure that the transmission is warmed up. The fluid is warm, and viscous, and will freely flow when draining.  I say that because my 10 miles commute usually ends with ATF reading 150 - 175.  

 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, Fifty150 said:

Maybe a misprint.  

 

Get low viscosity fluid.

 

 

 

An OBD II reader and free software can efficiently do more than you need.  You no longer have to buy $$$$ scanner which a professional uses.  Many applications allow your cellphone to display transmission fluid temperature.  

 

10 miles may, or may not, bring the fluid to correct temperature.  10 miles will ensure that the transmission is warmed up. The fluid is warm, and viscous, and will freely flow when draining.  I say that because my 10 miles commute usually ends with ATF reading 150 - 175.  

 

 

 

You mentioned the fluid should be hot then not warm so maybe a 20 mile drive to be sure, then make sure the side drip hole dribbles a little at idle hot......

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40 minutes ago, Fifty150 said:

Maybe a misprint.  

 

Get low viscosity fluid.

 

 

 

An OBD II reader and free software can efficiently do more than you need.  You no longer have to buy $$$$ scanner which a professional uses.  Many applications allow your cellphone to display transmission fluid temperature.  

 

10 miles may, or may not, bring the fluid to correct temperature.  10 miles will ensure that the transmission is warmed up. The fluid is warm, and viscous, and will freely flow when draining.  I say that because my 10 miles commute usually ends with ATF reading 150 - 175.  

 

 

 

Also you has mentioned there is no filter to change, I do believe there is one its rather flat and may go on the side if i'm not mistaken.. If you think there might not be one let me know if I'm mistaken

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11 hours ago, '14 Connect said:

Also you has mentioned there is no filter to change, I do believe there is one its rather flat and may go on the side if i'm not mistaken.. If you think there might not be one let me know if I'm mistaken

 

There's a filter.

 

You will not be changing it. It's inside the transmission case. The transmission has to be removed, and split open in half, in order to change it. 

 

No worries.  The filter is just a screen.  You will be fine as long as you are changing the fluid.

 

 

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