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Rear backup camera


Polancoay
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  • 3 years later...
   

I have a 2014 Transit Connect XLT with the lift-gate rear door.  My back-up camera malfunctions:  anything from a blue screen,or a  notice to take to the dealer to get it fixed, to normal operating for a while then quitting.  Sometimes the view is upside down.  Anyway, the use of the back-up camera is not at all reliable.  I called the dealer and he suggested the camera would need to be replaced.  I have found a Ford replacement camera and I need to know how to install it.  I can find no instructions or videos on camera replacement on a 2014 Transit Connect with lift back rear door.  Do I remove the rear interior door panel to replace the camera?  Any guidance on replacement would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you.  

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The camera operates through the car's computer.  The car's computer sends a signal for the camera to turn on, then receives the data, processes the data, and sends the image to your display screen.  It's not like an aftermarket camera which would be easy to troubleshoot.  Maybe it's the actual physical camera unit which is not working, and sending back an upside down image.  Maybe not.  I have a feeling that you will need a diagnostic with a computer.  

 

The interior panel of the liftgate comes off with trim tools.   I use a tool like this:

 

 

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This is what my liftgate looks like under the panel.

 

 

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Fifty150, you said:  "I have a feeling that you will need a diagnostic with a computer."  Do you have a recommendation for a computer for this type of diagnostics?  I have been looking at getting a FORScan ELM327 OBD2diagnostic coding tool for Ford.  Do you have a scan tool you recommend for Ford vehicles?  I have both a 2014 Transit Connect and a 2013 F150 5.0.  Both have malfunctioning rear backup cameras.  Any advice would be again greatly appreciated.  

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At the dealership level, the techs use Ford IDS.

 

 

image.thumb.png.a831683ecdafadad03945a2405c91070.png

 

 

 

You can try Forscan for the diagnostic.  I don't know much about using Forscan for diagnostics, other than reading trouble codes and reading operating parameters.  I know that Forscan is capable of much more.  I just don't know how to use it to do more.  I am using Forscan with Android on a tablet, which has limited functions.  I believe that you need a PC with Windows to access the full potential.  

 

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I am using this device.  Although many others will work.

 

51lyzyxS89L._AC_SL1000_.jpg

 

 

Try a web search first.  There may already be tutorials to fix your backup camera issue.

 

 

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.2abad65239249480cb8817d04e8b7c8e.png

 

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

Picked up my 2014 wagon last fall. The backup camera quit working about a month ago, showing the "backup camera not available" message.

 

I found that the camera fuse, F29 in the auxiliary panel at the right rear side, was blown.

 

Replacing the fuse resulted in an immediately blown fuse upon powering up the van. This tells us we have a hard short somewhere in that wire.

 

Picked up a copy of the wiring diagrams to see if I could troubleshoot the issue. The power runs from fuse F29 in the right rear, up to the front of the van, crosses over, and then runs down the left side to the Image Processing Module above the left rear wheel well.

 

If your van is like mine, and does not have parking/collision sensors, this is apparently a single continuous run of thin blue wire! This might be one of the longest runs in the van. Finding this short would likely require disassembling much of the interior. 

 

I was able to rule out any issues with the wiring between the module/door hinge/camera by unplugging the connectors for these. I would still blow a fuse in all scenarios.

 

Since I could easily see/access the thin blue wire at the fuse panel and module connector, I decided to just create a new power run that goes under the trim panel at the back doors. This has successfully fixed the issue, camera is working again.

 

I'm still using the 5A fuse in the panel, and used a 16ga wire, which is much thicker wire & insulation than the original. I don't think it will get pinched under the trim panel, but we're fused so I'm not worried if it should.

 

Connections at both ends were done with solder and shrink tubing, so this repair should be good for quite some time.

 

Repair pics show the insulating blanket that I've used for sweat soldering copper plumbing. I didn't want to risk melting any trim panels with solder drips or the heat gun.

 

IMG_5512.thumb.jpg.721cfafb6f2ec38818abb63f5df2cd8a.jpg

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IMG_5513.thumb.jpg.8f6232cf9cef07029f2df4d6a727e233.jpg

 

 

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