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Hello,

I just purchased a Transit Connect cargo van, primarily for business use. I am going to have a steel partition installed to separate the cab from the cargo area, along with security screens over the rear and sliding door windows. I am doing this, in part, to make it more difficult for someone to break into the back, where several thousands of dollars of equipment and tools will be located. However, all someone has to do is break into the cab and use the power lock switch to unlock all the doors and gain access to the rear.

I notice in the owner's manual that it states that the keyfob can be set up by the dealer to not unlock the rear doors. Is there some programming option they can set so as to not unlock the rear and sliding doors when the power lock switches are used in the cab? Or, is there a way to disable those switches?

Thanks for the assistance,

Dennis

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There's a rear door locking relay in the CJB (interior fuse box. See owners manual) you could try removing. I'd try insulating the sliding door contacts with tape to see if that disables them. Both of these would need to not affect the operation of the front locking process to be the ideal solution.

You would have to manually lock/unlock them with your key using the above. I do not think they can be programmed/modified to unlock with the remote but not the front door switches.

Edited by ncranchero

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Thanks for the fast response, and the schematic. First of all, I did notice that when the door lock/unlock switches in the cab are used, they do not unlock the rear doors. Additionally, I assume that the "Generic Electronic Module" in each schematic you posted is actually the same physical module. As such, could I not simply disconnect the wire connected to the GEM labelled "Sliding Door Unlock" and splice it (parallel it) into the wire labelled "Unlock Rear"? I guess the only issue would be if the "Unlock Rear" output provides enough power to run both circuits (and identical voltages).

Where is the GEM physically located?

Any advice in regard to this modification would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dennis

Edited by dbonsall

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. First of all, I did notice that when the door lock/unlock switches in the cab are used, they do not unlock the rear doors.

Is this with the vehicle off & key removed? Mine wouldn't unlock but that was with the vehicle running, opposite of what I wanted. Reprogramming changed that.

Additionally, I assume that the "Generic Electronic Module" in each schematic you posted is actually the same physical module.

Yes.

could I not simply disconnect the wire connected to the GEM labeled "Sliding Door Unlock" and splice it (parallel it) into the wire labeled "Unlock Rear"?

This CAN system sensed current flow, both input & output so i can't say what it would do. You may have to just try it.

I want to be able to lock my vehicle with the extra remote with it running but my Ford dealer service writer says it's not possible, even with the Ford scan tool. I'm not sure I believe that since when I requested it he looked at me like a deer in headlights......... :blink:

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I just wanted to provide an update on the resolution to my problem. I was able to get the local Ford dealer to reprogram the locks, so that the sliding doors DO NOT unlock when the power lock switches in the cab are used. In fact, the only way to unlock the sliding doors is to use the keyfob, and press the unlock button twice. The only drawback to this is if the keyfob battery goes dead. The driver's side sliding door is going to have a shelf with drawers installed directly in front of it, which will render the contents of the shelf inaccessible, should the keyfob battery go dead. I am probably going to check with the local dealer again to see if there are any configuration options that allow programming for the back door lock. Perhaps it can be programmed to unlock the sliding doors when the key is used to unlock it. If not, I'll just keep a spare keyfob battery in my glove box.

Thanks,

Dennis

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Do me a favor if you go back. Ask your dealer if it can be programmed to be locked with an extra remote while running. Maybe your guy has some know-how............... :angry:

Edited by ncranchero

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Looks like I'll probably be going back, as it is. I just found a way that the sliding doors can still be unlocked from the cab. If you have a door open and attempt to lock the doors using the power door lock switch, the vehicle unlocks the cab and sliding doors. So, if someone were to break into the cab, open the front door, then press in the door lock to lock the doors, the cab and sliding doors will unlock. However, the back doors still do not unlock, so I am hopeful that I can get sliding doors to not unlock in that situation.

I guess I'll find out.

Dennis

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Well, unfortunately, it looks like I am no better off after the program changes they made. The other day, I was able to get the vehicle reprogrammed so that the Central Unlocking feature would only unlock the front two doors. This has the advantage of restricting the unlocking of the vehicle by use of the power locks inside the cab to the front two doors only. The owner's manual states that this feature can be so restricted by the dealer.

After getting home and messing with the vehicle some more, I found out that the Smart Unlock feature overrides the Central Unlock programming that I had changed. The Smart Unlock feature unlocks the front and sliding doors if a door is ajar, and a lock command is issued. If someone smashes in one of the front windows, reaches in and toggles the power lock switch, all that will unlock is the front two doors. But, if someone smashes in one of the front windows, opens that door, then toggles the power lock switch, the front and sliding doors will unlock.

Unfortunately, my dealer cannot seem to make changes to the Smart Unlock feature, so I am not really any better off than when the Central Unlock feature was as defaulted. He is going to research some more, but I am not hopeful. I need to look into another solution for securing the cargo area.

Dennis

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Well, crap! I'm in the same boat as Dennis. Looks like I should look into a big dog or maybe should have bought an XL without all the power crap. Wonder who thought it was a good idea to set the power locks up that way? Some kind of strange euro-trash configuration? Dave

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There are apparently certain "parameters" that can be reprogrammed ans some that cannot. I requested that all that light flashing when locked/unlocked be disabled and they couldn't do that either. :banghead: :banghead:

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Since I last posted, I've not really made any progress. I haven't really had the time to follow through. The company I contract for (which is a large well-known corporation), is buying tons of these vans, so I wrote a letter detailing this issue, and had the local office fleet coordinator forward the letter to the national fleet coordinator. My hope was that they might take an interest in the problem, and be able to more easily get Ford's ear. But, I am not sure that the company really cares about the issue. We never heard back. It's probably cheaper just to replace the stolen tools and equipment, than deal with the issue. After all, we found out after two of these vans were broken in to and an E-150 was absconded with, that they weren't even carrying insurance to cover the equipment or tools in the back. They figure it's cheaper to replace the stolen items in the few vans that will be broken in to, than to pay for insurance on however many vans are in their national fleet. Unfortunately for the drivers, they had to replace their hand tools at their own cost.

After these three vans were broken in to locally, I decided to look more into a solution again. I contacted Ford via their website about the problem, but they were completely useless. No matter what I said in my email, their response ended up being to contact the local dealer. When I explained that the dealer had no clue how to solve the problem, I was told to go to another dealer. They might as well have just set up an auto-responder on their website that says "Contact your dealer" whenever you email them.

My problem with the dealers regarding this issue is their complete lack of knowledge regarding the programming options. When my dealer was reprogramming my TC, I stood right beside him. He was just trying different options and seeing what the result was. I'm not entirely sure that the Smart Unlock can't be programmed out, just that my dealer was unable to stumble across the solution.

One of the local drivers I work with ended up pulling the power lock fuse and wiring a toggle switch in line with the fuse. Now, when he gets home at night, he flips that switch to disable the power locks. I might end up doing that myself, but my luck would be that the night I forgot to toggle that switch, would be the night I was broken in to.

There should be a better solution to this....

Dennis

Edited by dbonsall

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Does anyone know how to make it so the horn does not sound when I lock the TC also the auto door lock switch is activated when the TC is put into Drive, can this be disabled?

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Your horn blows when you lock it? What year? I wish mine did but I actually haven't looked to see if it's programmable. i just wish it beeped instead of a flashing light show!

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Your horn blows when you lock it? What year? I wish mine did but I actually haven't looked to see if it's programmable. i just wish it beeped instead of a flashing light show!

My 2010 XLT doesn't blow the horn and I'm glad it doesn't. Very annoying.

I'd be looking to program it out.

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image.thumb.png.1729888750184cce588f038c0663bc77.png

Edited by Fifty150

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