billet_@bellsouth.net

I'm selling a pr of front lowering springs ordered from Vanstyle in the UK. Never installed them and sold the van. 100.00 plus 20.00 S&H 772-567-7645 Tom

One of the very first things I did was to add an "always on" rear cam. I don't care for the mirror cam's since my full size Transit came with one and I found it to be too small an image. I added a 10" monitor and mounted the camera on the roof and it works great!

I did the same with my '20 Cargo van, with the addition of 3M Thinsulate in all of the walls, doors and ceiling. Couch unflods into a full size bed.

Ahhhhh, one of the joys of living where it doesn't snow!

I planned on tapping into either of the 2 fuse boxes on my '20 cargo van until I looked into them. Just taking the top cover off the engine fuse box was a pain, but after looking at the inside I decided that wasn't the way to go. I ended up putting a fused line directly to the battery, leading to a toggle switch for my front DRL's.

2020 Cargo. I'm paying 68.00 mo with Geico for full coverage. Fl insurance rates are high.

Yes

I installed the MaxxAir and didn't use that. Instead, I cut 2 14" long strips of 1/4" ABS to run lengthwise in the gutter and 2 2" pieces the the center in the front and rear. They leveled the roof perfectly. Sealant on the top and bottom completed the job, and it's totally leak free.

I thought about powering my always-on rear cam but didn't trust the outlets powering down. You can tap into 12v keyed power inside the clamshell on the windshield.

The rear speakers and subwoofer are connected and driven by a separate amp that is connected to the factory unit. I had a local stereo shop tap into the radio and then I did the rest.

I have a '20 cargo van. There are no rear speaker wires, at least not to the rear doors. Maybe there are some behind the side plastic panels. I ran my own wires to the back to the doors, but found the because the depth is so shallow the speakers would have to be spaced out about 1 1/2". I ended up putting 6" x 9"s in my cabinets facing forward and an 8" sub on the bottom. Sounds great!

Here's mine. I bought this chair that unfolds into a 6" thick full size bed on Amazon. I didn't want a raised platform due to the low roof height so I installed two 12" x 12" x 30" cabinets on both walls for some inside storage. Also insulated all walls and ceiling with 3M Thinsulate and paneled them using Coroplast with trunk lining carpet. Did the floor with vinyl planks.

Hard to get a good pic, but I modified the pivoting mount that came with the monitor, and mounted it to an aluminum plate which was the attached to the "clamshell", which is where I found key on power. The camera is mounted on the 3rd brake light.

I don't like it at all!

I've switched back and forth to no avail. Still just one channel. No big deal.

I pretty much consider it useless.

It does, but for some reason it won't work with the 2nd channel. That's what you get when you buy a 27.00 monitor. I'm happy with the rear view only though.

Made a new antenna Installed LED DRL's and machined my company logo to replace the Ford emblem

Made diamond cut billet pedal covers. Sorry for the picture quality. I'm a pretty crappy photographer. Made billet door sills Made an overlay for the shifter Added an "always-on" rear camera. Mounted the camera on the third brake light.

I bought 20 linear feet. I knew it was more than I needed but wanted to have extra. Turns out I have 10 feet left and I was planning on listing it on Ebay. Let me know if you're interested. I did the ceiling, filled all of the door cavities and stuffed it anywhere I could. Made a huge difference. BTW, I also used Noico Sound Deadener under the insulation.

I bought the lowered spring set from Mod Your Connect in the UK. Installed the rears for a 2" drop, no problem. It really evened it out since the rear was higher to begin with. The front struts are an issue that we haven't tackled yet. Just getting to the struts is a major job in itself. I'll eventually get around to it.

The Maxair vent I installed requires a 14"x14" hole.

Mine is a 20 cargo van and I finally got a wire thru this weekend following the A pillar instructions above. I didn't go thru the grommet but used a small rectangular hole along side it. When the A pillar is removed you can see light thru to the interior. You can then fish the wire thru and either up to the overhead shelf or down to the dash. Hope this helps.

Mine cargo van was loud too when I bought it, but my intention all along was to insulate all the walls and ceiling with 3M Thinsulate. It made a HUGE difference and noise is no more than a regular sedan. I couldn't be happier with the end result.