Marquizzo

I love the linoleum in a van. That's the first time I've ever seen that. I'm curious to see how do you fold the mattress when the 2nd row seats are up?

What a mean-spirited post. Asks for opinions on a hitch that will only be used to brake-check other drivers on the road, then gets mad when people suggest not to do it.

@Nico So reloading the vehicle software was the solution? What software specifically was reloaded? Was it the Sync3 software, or some other kind of onboard computer? I'd like to get specifics so I can ask my dealership to do the same. Thanks!

I've only seen those Coleman Mach 3 on large RVs, like bus-sized ones. Maybe it's too much cooling power for a little Transit Connect?

@Banjeed That is such a good idea! I'm using a twin foam mattress from Ikea and it leaves really big and annoying gaps, especially by the doors. I've woken up out of the mattress several times. I'm definitely going to try your approach. Could you share a photo of how you store it while folded? I'm imagining the "winged" front part probably doesn't fit in the trunk, does it?

@Don Ridley I have a 2019 TC purchased in the US, and it has this anti-theft horn. I didn't discover it until I was camping in the back of the van, locked the doors with my key remote, and went to sleep. In the middle of the night I rolled around, triggering the motion sensor and woke up to the most ear-piercing shrill sound I've ever heard coming from the wall. ? So, yes. I can corroborate that it is the anti-theft horn.

@jrm223 Yeah I thought about custom-building it online, but to be honest, I got some pretty good discounts at the dealership, and ended up paying well below sticker-price. So I guess I shouldn't be complaining!

Yeah! I'm in Long Beach, but love to get up into the mountains whenever possible. What's the wooden platform for? Is that your sleeping setup? This is from our trip to Sequoia in 2019. We made some window covers and threw in a cheap foam IKEA mattress, and it's cozy as hell.

After months of shopping and waiting, I finally got the roof setup I wanted! I bought these used rails+crossbars for $400 from another 2019 Connect owner who just had them removed: Rack-N-Road didn't want to install them because they would have to remove the interior lining, and they didn't want to run the risk of damaging the curtain airbags, so I had to go through the dealer at $750 for labor. Then we got a 16-cubic foot Yakima Skybox. It turned out to be wayyy more expensive and difficult than I ever expected it to be, but all in all, I'm very excited with the final result. Word of advice: Ask the car salesman to add a roof-rack system before purchasing the car. My salesman said it could be done for $500, but that was far from the truth. It's much cheaper to get them to do it before signing the paperwork than to figure it out on your own after signing!

Very nice! Love the blue color. It's the color I wanted, but none of the dealerships in my area carried blue, so I had to get black. Could you add the locations to where the photos were taken? I'd love to know where some of those are. I think I see the snowy Eastern Sierra, & Death Valley, but I could be wrong.

I had the same problem in my 2019. But the fuse you're looking for is in the passenger compartment fuse box that's under the glove-box, not the one that's under the hood. Check out the bottom of this page of the user manual, you're looking for Passenger Compartment Fuse Box, fuse location #18 "Wireless accessory charging module.": https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?bookCode=O140553&countryCode=USA&languageCode=en&marketCode=US&viewTech=IE&chapterTitleSelected=G1601001&subTitleSelected=G1971495&topicHRef=G1971498&div=f&variantid=7408&vFilteringEnabled=False&userMarket=USA I solved the issue not by changing the fuse, but by simply unplugging the 3 main plugs that connect to the fuse box. I think disconnecting and re-connecting them reset the computer and started supplying my USB plugs with power again. However, if that doesn't work for you, maybe you do need to change the fuse. Good luck! It was literally a pain in the neck to get my arms under the glove-box.

Hey @Tom c what did the dealer end up doing to fix it? I'm having the same problem with mine. We get 10-15 minutes of power before it shuts off. I have to pull over in the freeway, fully take the key out of the ignition, open the driver door to turn off the electronics, and then turn the car back on to get power out of the outlet. Was the dealership finally able to fix it for you?

No, sorry. I live in California, and already bought them from a guy who got rid of his. He did this camper conversion to his car, it looks awesome: https://ursaminorvehicles.com/campers/ford-camper-conversions.html

Wow, what a pain in the neck. I have the opposite problem, I'm trying to install roof rails because my car came without them. I'm just going to take it to the dealer, however. I don't have the wherewithal to do what you did.

@DonShockley, were you able to get the dealer to show you how to access the passenger compartment fuse box?

@DonShockley If possible, ask them to show you how to access the passenger compartment fuse-box! The user manual says it's under the glove-box, but they don't mention that it's buried under a carpet that you must remove, and you need to twist your body into the footwell to reach below then up. It's been an absolute nightmare to figure out.

I figured it out! It turns out that to get to the actual fuse-box (in my 2019 Passenger TC at least), you now need to take about 5 additional steps. I'm gonna document it here for anyone else that might be running into the same issue. Make sure the engine is turned off and the keys are out of the ignition!! 1. Remove those 2 large plugs by pulling up on the white tabs. 2. You'll see the exposed black box with two tabs at the top. Pull down on the left and right tabs to unlatch and pull out. (Don't drop it!) 3. Here's the box outside the engine compartment. It was a struggle to angle it correctly to take it out of there because it's such a tight fit. 4. Flip it over and you'll see the fuse symbol again. There's another tab at the bottom, unlatch that 5. Ta-da! We FINALLY have the traditional fuse-box that was expected. It only took a bunch of extra steps and a day to gather the courage to disassemble the thing. I can only assume the passenger compartment fuse box is just as complicated, if not more because it's a real awkward twist to fit my body underneath the glove-box. I wish it was as accessible as my 2006 Escape with a simple panel to open from the driver's side.

Were you able to find a solution? I've run into the same problem with a 2019, and it's pretty frustrating.

I'm trying to check if I've blown a fuse in my 2019 Transit Connect. However, the fuse boxes look like nothing I've ever seen before. This is what my owner's manual says the engine fuse box will look like. I found the the cover with the fuse icon and removed it But when I look inside, I get this black box with only 2 giant plugs sticking out of it. What exactly am I looking at? Is this a new generation of fuse boxes? Is it safe to take out these plugs? How can I check if I've blown a fuse? I get the same thing with the passenger compartment fuse box. This is the view from underneath the glove box: It's a Black box with 3 big plugs coming out of it. Is this just another layer I need to remove before accessing the traditional fuses we're all accustomed to?

Hey, @Rileuy. Were you able to get the Rhino Rack installed through Rack-n-road? I'm thinking of placing an order online, but I'm trying to find out if they were able to install it for you.

@Fifty150 All those seats are really good options! Are these side-facing seats? Hard to tell what I'm looking at (that looks like the cargo door in the back), but if they're side-facing seats I'd recommend against them. They provide zero neck support in case of a frontal or rear collision. The spinal damage caused by lateral whiplash would be devastating.

It doesn't look easy to convert from a cargo to a passenger, but I guess that all depends on your skill level. This guy's video shows the bare floor of a 2011 Connect (skip to 1:28 for a good wide-angle shot) and you can see that it has mounts for the 2nd row seats but nothing for a 3rd row. Here's a screenshot: There are several safety items you'd need to also consider: - How do you install reliable seatbelts? - Do you want side airbags for your passengers? - What kind of seats will you buy and do they have headrests? If these questions sound difficult, then it might be easier and safer to just buy a passenger version instead of retrofitting a cargo version into one. As I said, depends on your skill level. Best of luck!

Wow, that Transit Connect looks amazing! After looking at their photos, it does look like they cut out a hole on the thin part of the roof, without affecting the structural integrity of the chassis. You can see it best in this photo:

Well @windguy, I come back with bad news. Rack n' Road says they're unable to help me with the installation because, as I feared, the supplied hardware would require to pull out the lining to install. They'd rather not do it because there's a chance they might damage the binding or the side-airbag system underneath when removing the lining. I found this installation video by the seller and indeed, you can see they have to access behind the lining at the 50-second mark. Looks like the seller didn't tell the whole truth when I e-mailed two days ago. Upon further inspection, I figured out why: The back mounting holes are elongated, so you can insert the hardware from the outside. For some odd reason, the front hole is circular, so there's no angle at which to fit the bolt in. I just corroborated this with my own van. Does anybody know why Ford would make this decision? You'd think standard would be better, but maybe there's a good reason. I like the rivet nut idea proposed by @Fifty150 and @Don Ridley. I'd be interested in pursuing that further, especially if it's only $63 extra, but it looks like the end result is a nut (female), whereas the rack system requires a bolt (male) as indicated by item #14 below. Any suggestions to make it work? I'm afraid that if I replace bolt #1 with a longer bolt to reach the rivet-nut, it could come loose if I skip nut #13. I welcome your suggestions! ------ Windguy, to answer your SUP questions, I used to have a 2006 Ford Escape with an OEM sliding roof rack system that I just passed down to the family. That's why I'm so set on getting rails again, it was very versatile and useful. We could fit anything from our 15' Coleman canoe down to a 5' Skybox. Our SUPs are inflatable, so we used to keep them inflated when driving close to home, but packed away when taking them long distances. Typically we go to bays and marinas close to home, but sometimes drive a bit further to go to lakes.

@windguy Thanks so much for those two links! That's definitely more of what I'm looking for in terms of price. We have two SUPs: an 11' and a 10'6" that we'd stack on top of each other. You're right, I should take air lift into consideration. Is that why you're called "WindGuy"? ? I'd also like to take a Skybox on and off, depending on the trip, but I'm guessing the lift would be less of a concern with the Skybox than with the SUPs. I have a passenger wagon, so the interior lining covers the entire ceiling all the way to the rear liftgate, plus it has airbags to worry about. I e-mailed the seller and he said it'd be easy to install from the outside. This was our e-mail exchange: Q: I have a 2019 Transit Connect XLT passenger wagon. Would I need to pull out the interior fabric to install the this roof rail hardware? Or can it be installed from the exterior alone? A: hello, you will mount from the outside. you do not remove the flooring. extremely easy. I'm assuming "flooring" is a language thing, and he meant lining. Looking at their instructions, it looks like item #14 goes into the mounting hole and has that long bar to grab onto something so you can tighten from the outside? Am I reading that right? I'm not sure bolt #12 for the middle and back can grab onto something in the same way: I'm going to visit a local shop tomorrow named Rack N' Road that specializes in these type of installations, and ask for their advice between the CAN AUTO vs Yakima options. I have to say I like the way the elevated racks look more than the flush ones, but I'm willing to go with the most reliable option. Besides, I'd rather pay them to do the installation than botch it up myself. @emassa15 That looks really good! Why did you need to drill new mounting holes? I thought all TCs already come with 5 holes on each side. I'm definitely trying to avoid going under the headliner, I'm even willing to go with the fixed-position cross-bars just to avoid dealing with that mess.