i86hotdogs

Yup. Near impossible to read in daylight. That was one of the biggest complaints from other buyers on the product page.

I purchased my unit through Crutchfield. They offer discounted or free hardware to assist the install. They give you a new dash piece, and harness adapter. For an additional cost, they'll wire the harness for you, so all you need to do is plug it in to the stock plug and head unit. As mentioned earlier, since this is a high powered unit, you will need to run a dedicated power wire to the battery. There are a ton of posts on this site that tell you how to get through the firewall. I went the route the factory suggests when installing a trailer hitch: through the a-pillar.

@stanger_missle Here's the link for the head unit I put in. This one has a 45 watt amp build into the system. It even has capability to hook up a powerless sub to the unit without needing an external amp. Your link didn't work when I clicked on it BTW. Cost about $250. Mind you, if you do opt for one of these powered head units, you will need to run a dedicated power wire to the battery from the unit. I did not read the fine print on that, and had to order a wiring kit separately. When I looked around the rear doors, I did not see anything where the speakers should be. I can't guarantee buying a set of speakers, wire, and mounting hardware will set you up for an easy install. I don't plan on expanding into the rear of the van with speakers, I haul stuff too often to do that. What I would recommend for better sound is a few things: Upgraded speakers, and either an amp and a head unit, or the combo of both like we mentioned will help significantly. I am content with my Rockford 3-way speakers and my powered head unit. If you want to stretch it further, I personally feel like wiring your own tweeters in the a-pillars will be an easier job than putting more in the back of the van. Road noise has to be battled with insulation. I have not gotten to that point in the build yet, but as you can see yourself, there is a ton of opportunity to insulate. Let me know if you have any other questions!

Hey to all, it's been a minute since I last posted about this. But I feel you all should know where I am with the sound system. First off, the 2016 Transit Connect XL Cargo has two speakers. One in each door, and ZERO tweeters. You should have seen my face when I disassembled the a-pillar. I decided against the line converter, and bought an aftermarket head unit. I missed having a CD player, and the Bluetooth is a nice perk to have. I also enjoy the ability to tune the audio controls via the Sony app. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GS920BH/Sony-WX-GS920BH.html?cc=07 Since this head unit has a high powered amp built in (40 watts), I had to run a dedicated power wire to the battery. Thanks to all your help here, and other posts, that was an easy task. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK12/Crutchfield-CK12.html?cc=02 I decided to return the Polk speaker set, and buy a set of 3-way speakers to compensate for the lack of tweeters. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R165X3/Rockford-Fosgate-R165X3.html Sound is great. Louder, clearer, bass is adequate. I even ran the Bluetooth mic through the dash and up the the a-pillar. Latched onto the sun visor arm. I'll add a picture of that later. Reading up on some of your set ups, I'd like to add a low profile powered sub underneath one of the seats (or both!). That would be an easy connection thanks to the head unit's capabilities. I apologize I did not take any photos. I know those are a huge help for others. If anyone would like specific photos, please let me know, and I will gladly take my dash apart to do so. I've taken my dash and panels apart so many times now it's easy to do

@mdarren, I put that project on hiatus for a couple reasons: 1. funds 2. If I do lower the TC, I move out of stock class for Rallycross. I'm weighing the pros and cons on moving into the prepared class for racing. So far, signs lead towards keeping it stock. But it still appeals to me to lower the rear.

It being a cargo van, there's little to no insulation. Gonna need to add some dynamat or cheaper alternative to help that. Also, I'll still route it out the back of the van, so that will help with noise. Right now its directly underneath me and you can hear AND feel it.

@davidparker All I could find were the videos of the fusion with different arrangements. Regardless, that's a good reference.

Got bored and cut the entire exhaust from after the catalytic converter on. The two bolts you see in the video wouldn’t cooperate. Sound is raw, but adds a lot of vibration in the cabin. I kept the exhaust, and plan on replacing the resonator with straight piping, and adding a Borla Pro XS muffler on the end of it. For the next few days, though, I’ll deal with the noise and vibration. It’s a Rallyvan anyways right?!

I don't see the cost benefits of a custom job for this vehicle. For starters, the only major bends or turns in the pipe is towards the rear near the left rear tire. other than that, it's a straight direction from the catalytic converter on. For something I can assemble with a few parts and a mig welder for $100, the shop would want no less than $300. ($300 is what they wanted for the wife's Chrysler 200 exhaust work: axleback muffler and piping)

Good eye there. I'll have to see for myself where I cut it what the actual diameter is.

No issues bottoming out. Most Rallycross courses are designed to avoid bumps, jumps, and other potentially dangerous features. A skid plate will never hurt, I've been talking to a guy who specializes in focus skid plates, and he agrees the similarity between the TC and the focus is almost identical. I loved racing the TC, and everyone got a kick out of it thinking it was a tow vehicle for another car. As for the exhaust, I am waiting for it to stop raining so I can get underneath and take off the pipe from the catalytic converter back and see how it sounds. If it's too much, I'll pick up the Borla Pro XS I mentioned earlier and put that on.

Haven't bought any yet. I might just lower the rear seeing the front is at a good height for my taste. The rear has so much preload because it's a cargo van. I hardly ever haul anything besides a mattress when I go camping, so I think I'll go for the mod your connect rear lowering springs for $160.

Thanks for all the help! I took an angle grinder to the section circled below. So I already got rid of that gigantic muffler. The sound is ok, but it sounds more accidental than intentional. Meaning it sounds like the muffler's gone bad. I was going to remove the giant resonator (1) and see how it sounds. If I don't like it, I've researched aftermarket mufflers that make 4 cylinders sound decent. I know not all 4 bangers are the same, so I made sure to listen to a few different kinds to get an idea what might come out. I narrowed it down to a Borla Pro XS. I heard samples of this installed on a corolla, Mazda 3, cavalier, and a subaru. All sounding pretty good in their own ways. The Mazda was a 2.3L 4cyl which I am confident is from the same engine family as the 2.5 duratec my van has. So I am optimistic on the outcome. I'll replace the resonator with straight piping, and attach the Borla to the end with a turndown. Now I just need the weather to drop back into the double digits before I start working outside.

Hey Gang, I've searched here, other forums, facebook groups, parts sites, pretty much everywhere but my own vehicle. I've got the 2.5 Duratec in my '16 LWB cargo, and trying to figure out the diameter of the exhaust pipe. My gut leads me to 2.25". Any help from you all would be great. RallyVan for your time.

The answer is yes. Regardless of the drive of the wheels, you still need the rear under control. That is handled with tires and aerodynamics. The weight distribution may not be as significant as rwd or even rear engined vehicles like Porsche, but with enough momentum through a turn, that rear can kick out uncontrollably. Professional race teams like the touring classes use modified front wheel drive cars for races. When they dial in the appropriate settings for wheel alignment and aero, they tend to perform better than RWD or even AWD counterparts.

OK everyone, let's talk lowering springs for the MK2 (2014-2018). I've found three (four) different products: Mod Your Connect- UK based, comes out to $250 including shipping. Cheapest option. https://www.modyourconnect.co.uk/product/myc-connect-mk2-fr-lowering-springs/ AST Lowering Springs- $350, no reviews anywhere. Fairly known brand https://www.carid.com/ast-suspension/25mm-40mm-front-and-rear-lowering-springs-mpn-astls-17-045.html?singleid=688519468 Eibach Lowering Springs- $400, well known brand, also no reviews https://www.vividracing.com/eibach-prokit-performance-springs-set-springs-p-152634625.html The full coilover kit by Vmaxx-$754 includes shipping https://www.modyourconnect.co.uk/product/v-maxx-mk2-transit-connect-coilover-kit/ Opinions? Anyone have the AST or Eibach kit can vouch for them? I probably won't opt the full kit due to cost. Thanks in advance.

Which generation are you referring to? I own the gen2 (2014-2018), and put 215/60R16 winter tires on. Your biggest concern will be the front wheel wells. I rallycrossed in those size tires, and had no rubbing or interference, but it sure looked tight! I'm not sure about a 65 ratio. I think they will, but can't guarantee anything. The 60R ratio measures at 26.2" diameter, 65R measures at 27" diameter, and the stock 55R ratio measures 25.3" diameter. Hope this helps!

Much appreciated. Was frequently told "best looking transit van they've ever seen"

She goes by many aliases: Rallyvan, SHOVan, Jan Van...

So I signed up for a rallycross event last weekend. I registered Jan Van to compete. Here's an article I put together about the experience. https://oppositelock.kinja.com/in-a-world-of-wrxs-and-miatas-be-a-rallyvan-1834951348 I do a little freelance writing for this forum. I don't get paid or anything, but I love the community on this page. They are mostly supportive, and all share a similar passion for cars and life.

In the market for any style/brand fitted all-weather rubber mats. I have the cargo van, so I am only looking for the front two. Any color will suffice. Looking to spend around $100 before shipping/delivery. Located in the Cleveland area, and will be willing to travel at my own expense if location is close enough.

I've been on a deep search for budget friendly wheel options. If money wasn't a factor, I was a huge fan of the white Sparco Terra's. But I couldn't find myself to drop $600 on wheels. Someone on here had a set installed and they looked great! Perhaps in a few years when I'm not paying for a wedding. There was an idea to paint the steelies white. Someone else did this too, and I liked it. My only problem was time. In order to properly clean, sand, coat, and finish each wheel, I'd have to take them off the car. Can't do that with this being my daily. Then I came across these: Slicer wheels from a Gen II Taurus SHO. Dimensions matched: 16x6.5 5x108. Only difference was the slicer's 42 offset to the stock's 50. 8mm outboard would not be an issue. These were $100 for the set found on eBay. Had a few dings, scuffs and bubbling, but I couldn't complain about minuscule defects like that. These turned out way better than expected. Local shop put them on with new stems, and reset the TPMS system for $100 out the door. $200 for everything Once I get new summer tires (probably June or July), I'll op for sticky weights vs the clip-ons. I also learned there are plenty styles of Volvo wheels that match the dimensions of the TC. So if you or someone you know has a set of Slicers or Volvo wheels laying around, check them out!

$10 converter it is!!

I agree with using the existing mids wiring. Crutchfield included wiring harnesses for the speakers making the hookup a breeze. I have all the wiring needed from my last vehicle, just need to pick out a line out converter. Does the converter need to match the amp's RMS output? or just be enough to match the stock head unit's output? That's a difference of either $10 for an 80 watt converter (link 1), or a $70 400 watt converter (link 2) My biggest obstacle is trying to find time and space to put some serious work into it. This week should be warmer, and hopefully dry. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142LOC80/Scosche-LOC80.html?tp=2001 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIL0LW0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SX1R00E2EUMR&psc=1