Don Ridley

Do you still need this?

I ran the wires behind the plastic panels on the passenger side. I used the AJB because I has the pins to add circuits.

I doubt the module is defective. I would suspect the sensors are bad even though the tire shop claims they are OK. You don't know how the tire shop made this determination so I would not do anything based on this diagnosis. The problem of course is the sensors are not accessible. A good scan tool like Forscan, Autel etc will show of the status of each tire. Without a scan tool, I don't know how you can read the sensore data. Make sure you are driving the van a while before the test to wake up the sensors. Another test is to see if you can populate the "blank" tire locations with data from the good sensors. If you are learning the sensor data by letting air out of the tires when instructed by the display in the cluster, then try fooling the van by letting air out of a different tire than the one requested and see if the van loads data into that tire's location. This will show if the BCM is "blind" to a location.

I don't understand this. The "van side" is the battery cable. This cable directly attaches to the body/frame of the vehicle. Using a good body groud connection for high amperage loads is always recommended. There is a sensor on the battery connection that measures current flowing in/out of the battery. Maybe they want this connection directly to the battery terminal to bypass this sensor?

I think those are for lights that communicate with the network. My 2016 TC and many others hyper flash based on the current draw from the bulbs. These require a resistor that draws a lot of current and gets hot.

You have to enable reading PIDs. Click on Table icon in the main page. Then go to the gear icon and look for PIDs in the module. It is not intuitive, but once you find the PID you click on it. Now you have a list of PIDs. Then you click the Play icon. Like I said, it takes some trial and error but eventually you will learn how to do it.

That white wire is not an OEM connector. I don't know what those wires are connected to.

Not every Ford has the option to remove the hyper flash. Sometimes you turn off bulb outage, sometimes your turn on LED type lamp option but most common is you must install load resistors. It is different for the Ford models.

I don't understand what you are asking. You can buy Forscan for Apple. Maybe you can get it from the Apple Store(I have Android so I don't know). https://apps.apple.com/us/app/forscan-lite-for-ford-mazda/id892347083

Yes. There is a Forscan app for Apple. Check the Forscan website for details. Payment has been a problem for Forscan.

That is the Forscan app on Android. It works great for reading data. It can't make any configuration changes.

I checked my TC and the SW switch PIDs are in the FCDIM. Here is a screenshot of the right switches when I am pressing the Vol Down button

I have attached drawings showing the clockspring connections. The lights for the right side buttons are powered from a cable that is connected to the left side buttons. Look at C260 in the diagram and confirm you have this separate cable. The radio (ACM) buttons are shown in the diagrams. The signals go from the buttons to the FCDIM module, then get sent on the network to the ACM. You may not have the FCDIM. Use Forscan to see if the PIDs for the ACM buttons read the status change when the buttons are pressed. The buttons are always illuminated. fcdim.pdf sws light1.pdf ACM switches.pdf cruise control.pdf st whl harness.pdf

Programming a BCM is not easy for a home mechanic. A good independent shop can do it using Ford software that home mechanics can't afford. Someone needs to precisely diagnose where the current drain is coming from. This takes time and careful testing. Wiring diagrams are essential. Dealerships are notorious for swapping parts without diagnostic data.

Here is screen shot of my BdyCm setting. Note there is a setting for steering wheel controls.