jrm223

Mine didn't have that extra trim piece on it, but I have a base model. I just had to squeeze in the two sides on my lens (by hand) and it popped right out. Yours looks like the LED version whereas I had regular incandescent bulb. I'm guessing you tried putting like a putty knife or something under the bottom side where that notch is? I'd think push straight up at that spot to release the lock.

Is this the right spot to check for current BCM version? I also see a History tab, which shows nothing. Acronym Description Assembly Part No. Software Part No. Last Checked BCM Body Control Module (BCM) DV6T-14A073-UM DV6T-14C094-BH 08-12-14 21:51

I got the extended license for Forscan (it's free, but you have to renew every 2 months) and tried to turn the approach lights off, but it didn't work for me. From what I'm seeing, I need to get the BCM updated and then it *should* work correctly. Windguy, when you read the BCM and other modules, save the file and keep it as a master copy. You can reload it to the BCM if you do mess something up, lol.

Well, that sucks! I do have power windows, but only the driver is one-touch. Mine is a window-less cargo van, so no rear windows to worry about.

For what it's worth, this is the ELM that I bought and have used with Forscan & Focccus. The changes I tried to make saved successfully, but didn't actually work for me - I reverted to OEM config until I can get the BCM updated with latest code so I can try my configuration changes again and that will include dark mode. It also cleared DTC's successfully using Forscan.

I recall seeing a setting for "Approach lights", which I would assume is when you unlock the van and those perimeter lights turn on with the remote - I disabled them, and they still came on :( But now that setting is back to default since I reversed all my changes. I didn't see anything about dark mode and I assumed that I wouldn't since I don't have the updated BCM code.

Dandytc got it right, that's exactly what that post is for, lol. That was actually one of the first things I noticed after I bought my van. That said, I have tow-truck-style jumper cables with a disconnect on the front of the van that my 25ft cables plug into to use for jumping others & could be used to jump my van, if needed. No need to pop my hood at all, but definitely not something that everyone would want to have, though - especially at nearly $200... This is the best pic I have available of the plug, I only zip-tied it to the grill but it's held up fine with at least a dozen uses now. But that red rubber cover is more like road-grime-nasty these days. I've gotten questions ranging from "Is that a diesel?" (I guess indicating some massive engine warmer since my old PowerStroke was a standard 110V plug, lol) to "Is that an electric car?" Nope, but it'll provide 12V electricity, haha.

I was messing around with Forscan & Focccus on my 2015 XL a few weeks back, trying to enable things like global open/close and a few other changes. None of them ended up working for me, though. I ended up loading the as-built file (original OEM code) back in for the time being. I need to get Ford to update my BCM and then I'll try again, lol.

Finally bringing a diesel, nice! Now if only Ford would let us have a manual trans, too. I wouldn't mind having the improved front seats to put in my 2015, as well. 1K mile trips straight-through aren't the most comfortable thing to do - although I only need to do that a few times a year when visiting family.

On my 2015, it's called "Panther Black Metallic" and I've seen it called "Tuxedo Black" or "Tuxedo Black Metallic" on other Ford vehicles. As far as my eyes can tell, it's all the same metallic black, lol. Probably one of those things where you'd have to see them all on the same panel to notice the subtle difference? Funny thing about Panther Black Metallic on my van is that the little bitty town of 500-ish people in rural Texas where I bought a project house (sight-unseen while living 1000 miles away in northern IL) has the Gorman Panthers and Lady Panthers as the school sports teams, haha.

The "P switch" is the parking sensors on/off for the rear bumper. If you had a cargo rack on the hitch and put the van in reverse, the sensors/bell would be going off thinking you're about to hit something, so you could click the P switch to shut them off.

Haven't been at work the last couple days because of ice & freezing rain here in Texas. I filled up my tank on Tuesday night and got 22.37 MPG (corrected for tire size). With the old tires, I was averaging around 24 MPG, so it's a 6.8% reduction if I'm doing my math right... But the previous tank was 23.6 MPG, which is a 1.7% reduction from the old tires.

Nope, I haven't noticed any rubbing issues and they've had probably a couple thousand miles, I forgot the mileage when I had them put on... I did get around to calculating the odometer difference more accurately, going from my project house to the one I live in is 83.9 miles and the odometer read 79.2 miles, giving a ratio of 1.059 instead of 6.7% (1.067) like the online tire calculators claimed. I still need to get it into Ford to hopefully have them reprogram the tire size and also still need the door latch recall done. MPG's have been 20.5-23.6 (corrected for actual miles traveled) the couple times I've checked it and I'll be checking the next tank-full again. I was averaging around 24MPG with the original tires. Texas speed limits - and likely my short 11.5 mile work commute - have killed my MPG's compared to when I lived in IL (26-28 MPG average up there with the lower speed limits and 50 mile former work commute).

On behalf of Finns (two n's, lol), we thank you - kiitos! - for your compliment. Even if I've never been to Finland myself - my great-grandparents on dad's/dad's side came here to the US around 1916. Now I just need to build myself a new sauna since I had to sell my old one to have a down-payment for my new home last year...

I live in north-central Texas and it was 30* on my way into work this morning - so you might still need the heated seats, haha. We've even had many nights in the 20's the past several weeks.

The "engine off & doors open" is the perimeter lights, NOT the DRL's (Daytime Running Lights). DRL's are only on with the engine running.

With a rear-wheel drive like that, I can understand them wanting to do all four. What good is it being able to get moving if you can't steer well? lol, now a front-wheel drive it'd be less of a concern to have all four snow tires. Back tires would help stop, but not much help to move or steer.

Willygee, try to get a Ford tech to turn off your DRL's in the BCM, rather than messing with wiring/relays/switches. Some of us TC2 guys (gen 2, 2014+) are trying to get techs to turn off the stupid perimeter lights and a few have been successful, lol. It seems to be a matter of finding a tech & service department that's willing to actually put some effort into it, rather than a lazy department that just wants repairs in & out quickly. Jakeru, for the instrument lights bright/dim, you have to push the button what seems like a good 40-50 times to go from full-bright to low-dim. It also 'remembers' the two different brightness levels you desire - what I mean by that is that headlights-off can be one brightness level and headlights-on is a separate brightness level. For me, I have full-bright during the day (headlights-off) and about 20-25% brightness at night because I found the dash to be blinding at night since I live in the boonies. The only time that I have trouble with the dim setting is when it's raining during the day, so the dash is a bit harder to see, but not enough to make me take the time to turn the brightness up again.

Okay, I remembered wrong for my tire sticker - it's 44F & 48R, but I do roughly 44 all-around. I don't have a gauge with me to check the current pressure, though. The second pic is the back-edge of the driver side, closest to the door; I can get my fingers through the gap. Second pic is front-edge of passenger side by the bumper, a little more room up there.

I had to bring them to another shop in town to get mounted since Walmart wouldn't do it because of corporate liability policies with the oversize and "underweight" aspects. It's been awhile since I looked, but I think my van shows 42F and 45R PSI on the sticker; I'll have to check that again in a bit. I always inflate all four to around 42-43PSI since I don't generally carry anywhere near full-load capacity. So far the tire pressure light has not popped up, so they must have put enough air in to make the computer happy, anyway.

I really didn't notice any increase in road noise up to 75MPH on the way home and I don't have any rear interior, either - no foam/vinyl floor, no plastic panels, etc. So mine is already a bit noisier than most cargo vans here, but not loud by any means. I did get one pic before leaving work with a parking lot light plus camera flash for some brightness. Edit: Oh yea, I also noticed they don't break traction as much on pavement or gravel. Same situations that had the traction control going crazy before, even when the Conti's were younger & meatier than now.

Well, one of my clients called as I was walking to the shop to pick up my van, so I didn't get any pics before the sun was down. After a couple miles around town, I barely hear more noise over the Continentals that came off, but I've had trucks with actual mud tires so naturally these AT's are a lot quieter than those. Highest speed around town is also 45MPH, so there might be a bit more noise once I'm going faster on the way home (70MPH between towns). MRTN, I'm planning on bringing it to Ford to get reprogrammed (hopefully, but we all know how tech's and SM's can be about these things) and I still need to get that door latch recall taken care of, so I'll need to schedule it to make sure they have the new latch first. Beta Don, if these tires don't get stuck in my own yard, they'll be an instant improvement, lol. Although that only happened once. That said, they should also have less tendency to spin even on drive pavement, one issue that the Conti's had since new since they're such a hard compound. As for the trans shift points, I would think there wouldn't be a need to change them as long as the vehicle knows the actual road speed via correcting the tire size in the computer, but maybe I'm thinking about that wrong, idk. On trucks in the past, I put 33's on one that had like 29's stock and I shifted the manual (1989 F150 4.9L 4-speed granny) at the same RPM's as always. Also had swapped the stock 265/75R16's to 315/75R16's (31.6" to 34.6", 9.5% difference) on my 2003 F350 and didn't make any adjustments to the computer or auto trans there. The tire increase on my TC2 is only 6.7% increase, in comparison.

So, my van is at a tire shop right now getting an upgrade to General Grabber AT2 all-terrains. Stock tires have 70K on them and are pretty well worn-down, one pair is at the wear bars and the other pair has a little bit left before the wear bars. I ordered 215/65R16 so I can gain 1/2" extra ground clearance because I scrape too often - but, of course, WalMart wouldn't put them on since they aren't stock-size. I ordered online since they weren't in-stock at my local store. Their worker told me "The tires are 6.67% bigger (I know that, I want more ground clearance) and your van is spec'd for extra-load capacity tires and the tires you bought are standard-load." I looked up the tire specs and Ford's axle specs (GAWR) - my van has 2716lb GAWR for each axle and the tires are rated 1653/ea thus 3306/pair?! 590lbs more capacity then the axle is rated for, but they're not high enough load capacity, that's hilarious! Anywho, pics later after I get the van back. I'll have to schedule a service visit with Ford to reprogram computer for the new tire size and I also still need to get the door latch recall done. Hopefully these tires will help me not get stuck in my own yard like the stock ones did in spring of 2016... Had to get pulled out of my own yard, lol.

I had an ex that had a Chrysler T&C with back-up camera, I had drove the thing for a week straight and never could get used to the camera, lol. But it's still something that I'd like to put on my van at some point.

For the 2015+, here's the sensor to DIY if you're out of warranty. RockAuto TC2 ambient air temperature sensor (AAT)