Timbo

I'm glad my Google search took me to this topic tonight. Lately I've been having the same problem with my 2010 not coming out of park. In my case, it's intermittent, so I guess the brake light switch is getting flaky, and not (yet) completely shot. It certainly does seem like the switch that's the culprit, as when the issue arrises, the brake lights don't come on. I was also glad to find out about the bypass button on the shifter console. That will be a huge help in the meantime.

I bought the Mazda pan with built-in drain plug, but I'm unsure what kind of ATF the shop used the last time they flushed my transmission. It could have been the factory fluid, but who knows. Now I'm thinking maybe I'll let them do another flush and ask them what they used so I can top it off with the correct fluid when I do the pan swap. I doubt they used full synthetic, but if they did, it wouldn't do for me to top off with the wrong stuff.

Well this is a big relief to hear! Thanks for the info! ? My neighbor's converter was just taken off his Honda van, right out front in the street, so it's starting to hit close to home. I was wondering if I should get some sort of guard, but it looks like I can skip it.

I went to a local locksmith and got two keys for half the price the dealer wanted for just one. I got the stock, Tibbe key with fob, and a chipped, valet key to have as an emergency spare, or when I don't want a bulky key in my pocket. I actually like the valet key more than the stock, fobbed key. Having a remote is nice, I guess, but the valet key is much smaller.

$500?!?! OMG!!! My local Ford "stealer" just quoted me $475 + tax to replace and program the new fob! I read that without having both fobs, I wouldn't be able to program it myself and would have to go to the dealer. Crap!

I assume I can go to the nearest Ford dealer to have the keys replaced, but is that the best way to go? I want to do it in the easiest, most hassle-free way I can... A way that ensures no chance things won't work out. Dealer, right? Is it expensive? Is that a dumb question? ?

Back in 2014, I built a bed and folding table for my 2010 TC, but it took me 7 years to get around to making the space more useable. Having to unbolt the bed legs (24 large wood screws in the floor) every time I needed cargo room, got old really fast. It was the irregular shape of the walls and the double doors that had me thinking I couldn't mount the hinges to the wall. And I was right. Then it hit me. "Put the hinge on the bed!" Duh! A simple chain and hook holds the bed up, securing it to the wall. Now I can easily lift the bed out of the way when I want to haul something, like my bike or sailing gear. This is what it looked like in 2014. This is what it looks like now. I hinged the upper legs so they don't stick out into the cargo area, and I placed rare-earth magnets, under adhesive Velcro pads, to hold the legs against the bottom of the raised bed. That way they don't knock on the wood as I drive down the road. I made a little cut-out in the leaf so the leg on the left wouldn't interfere with folding the leaf against the underside of the bed. The folding leaf is at the head of the bed, so a pillow goes there (when I even both to use the leaf), eliminating any chance that I'll feel the slot in the wood. I don't know what took me so long.

Cool, thanks. I'm about the change the transmission fluid in my XLT by draining 3 quarts at a time, via the drain valve in the Mazda pan I'm installing, but wasn't sure it would be OK to mix different kinds of ATF while I did. I won't be mixing synthetic and non-synthetic, but I'm unclear if there are incompatible differences between different kinds/brands of fluid, even if they were both non-synthetic.

I’ve decided to pull the trigger on the Mazda oil pan, with drain plug, for the transmission, along with a gasket and filter set, but I want to make sure I’m getting the right ATF. Is this the stuff they use from the factory? The 5 quart bottle is $29 on Amazon. My local parts store wants $9 a quart. ?

I've been running a 75 Amp/Hr. NorthStar AGM under the hood of my XLT for the last 5 years, and I love it! I've got a 200 Watt solar panel on the roof, as well as a 1000W inverter mounted in the rear, on the fender. It's a great system for day-to-day stuff, like charging my cordless power tools, watching TV, running a fan/trouble light, etc. I've used it a couple times to power my plastic welder and soldering iron, too. The solar panel makes sure the battery is always charged to 100%, and allows me to run things all day while the sun is up, without losing a single Volt. I can also run thing all night and know that the panel will start recharging the battery in the morning so I don't have to run the engine at all. That comes in very handy when doing multi-day camping or road trips.

Now that's the kind of answer I'm looking for! Thanks for that! It does appear to be the same part, and since I was going to buy a new pan to have welded anyway, I might as well just buy one that comes with the plug already installed. Many thanks!

Opps. Forgot that "little" detail. 2010 XLT.

2010 XLT Cargo. I did a few searches, including Google, but couldn't find a thread specifically about installing a drain plug on the TC pan. I could only find a few posts mentioned having done it or planning to do it in the future. I get that it's not rocket surgery, but it would be nice to see *exactly* where to drill the hole. It would also be helpful to find out what drain/plug people recommend. (Screw-in or weld on drain?) From the pictures I have been able to find, it looks like the drain is positioned under the transmission filter. Anyway. If anyone knows of a thread that was created that covers this topic in detail, I'd love to see the link. Thanks!

I found the source of the noise. It was a missing/broken tooth on the larger gear. Yay! I saved $400! ?

You're not kidding! The Ford dealer near me, wants $577 for it! The cheapest I found was online for about $320+ shipping from the east coast. AutoZone has them for $365. So are you saying the internal gears are available? I've seen the gears for the front actuators on eBay, but I don't know if they're the same. The link dktool provided (and thanks for that, btw), seems to be in regards to the actuator not locking the door. Mine works just fine, the left side just makes a lot of noise when I unlock it.