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Everything posted by Timbo

  1. It would be nice to have a spare key I could stick in a key-safe somewhere under the van that would unlock the doors. That way I could hide my spare key / fob inside the vehicle, under the dash or in some other hidden / hard to find place. Is there a simple, flat, metal key I can get that only unlocks the doors? I'm pretty sure the ignition key has a chip in it, so a simple, flat key wouldn't be able to start the engine. It would, however, be easier to hide in a small, out-of-the-way place, like in a Hide-A-Key box, stuck to a frame-rail under the van. I'd rather not put the expensive, fob-equipped ignition key in the key-safe if at all possible.
  2. Wow, the keypad just sticks to the door with adhesive?? I would have thought you had to drill a couple of holes in the door to secure it. I'm not sure I like the idea that it can just be peeled off the door, or fall off, over time, if it gets wet. .
  3. I wonder if it was Jaguar? I found an article that said only Ford and Jaguar use the "Tibbe" style key found in the TC. Having any sort of service done at a Jaguar dealer would certainly explain the high cost. Having the Ford dealer send the key to the Jaguar dealer, pay their fee then turn around and mark up the cost 100%, explains the crazy cost of going that route. I didn't realize you could install a keypad on the TC. Something else to consider, thanks.
  4. Wow, only $10?? My local Ford dealer wants $44 for the key.
  5. I recently found these driving lights on Amazon, but they don't have any reviews to vouch for their quality. --> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZ6NW4W?tag=viglink21027-20 Has anyone successfully installed fog or driving lights on their 1st Generation TC, and if so, what did you go with? I've never seen anything in the van that suggests there might already be wiring and/or harnesses to attach lights to, and I'm a little ambivalent about running a bunch of aftermarket wires, relays, switches, etc. just to mount some lights I don't really need. I just thought they might look spiffy with my new wheels.
  6. Timbo

    Cleaning the headliner?

    Curious what people are using to clean their headliners in the TC... I've got some ugly, black stains, that might have a little oil in them from working on the car, but might just be dirt. Thing is, I'm reluctant to use soap and water because I fear there's something under the fabric surface of the headliner that might not react too well to getting wet. Fortunately the stains aren't terrible, so if I don't have any options it won't kill me. It would just be nice to clean it up a little. I'll see if I can get a photo or two up tomorrow. It's 4 o'clock in the morning here and I have to sleep.
  7. Timbo

    Transmission fluid change

    I don't know... At first I thought it was all in my head, but now I'm sure it's accelerating better and quicker. And I didn't have anything done to the engine during my last service. Just the transmission flush.
  8. Wait..... The newer TC still has a 4 cylinder engine?? I was misinformed!
  9. Depends on where you buy your parts. In the last 8+/- months I've purchased a set of front door latches for just shy of $700, but I also bought a valve cover gasket from my local auto parts store for $21 (Ford dealer wanted $42). My brake rotors are $35 each from the auto parts store. So not too bad. Besides the latches, an issue not everyone has, I haven't had to spend much on my 2010.... And yes, you can take it anywhere you want. I really like my '10, but if someone were to ask me what year to buy, I'd definitely tell them to get the later generation with the V6. My 4 cylinder is a dog. The V6 gets much better fuel economy, or so I've read.
  10. Timbo

    Transmission fluid change

    I know it's probably just my imagination, but it feels like it's shifting and accelerating better. It always feels good when you replace fluids in your car, esp. oils, even if in reality, there's no noticeable difference.
  11. Timbo

    Transmission fluid change

    I just had my transmission fluid flushed today at a local shop. I far as I can tell, from what I could find in my service records, it hadn't been changed for 60,000 miles. It wasn't a cheap service ($315), but they did it in a way I could't have myself.. They ran the van on a dyno while putting it through various gears to make sure the 16 (18?) quarts of ATF made its way through the entire system.
  12. Yep. I just shelled out another $335 for my second door latch. I'm not comfortable buying those Chinese knockoffs you see on eBay or random auto parts-houses. If it were a door, pin switch I were installing, sure, I'd order from whoever had the best price, but these front door latches are sufficiently complicated that I don't want to take any chances with cheap, no-name manufacturers. 1 hour of labor later, and everything is working fine. Let's hope it stays that way. ~
  13. Besides my front-right window not going down, I'm having an issue with the doors unlocking and the interior lights coming on while the van is moving, or moreover and completely understandably, when it first starts moving. 99.9% of the time, the culprit is the right-front door itself. If I open the right-front door, chances are pretty darn good the van won't lock when I close the door, at least not until I've slammed the right door a few times. This suggests to me that the front door sensor is faulty. Thing is, I don't always have to open the front door for this to happen, though usually that's the cause, and that's got me puzzled. ​Besides being annoying and making me worry I'll shatter the window if I repeatedly slam the door (that happened many years ago on my '63 Falcon van), I fear the issue will worsen and the doors will unlock themselves when the van is in a parking lot with me far away from it. Has anyone had this problem before, and if so, what was the culprit?
  14. Hopefully parts prices aren't as insane on your side of the country as they are over here.
  15. I'll be installing the new latch this weekend and will report back to let folks know if it fixed the problem or moved to another door switch.
  16. OK, I just confirmed, based on my VIN, that my van does not have a fuel filter. There's a "sock" (filter), as they call it, attached to the fuel pump, inside the fuel tank. Now I'm thinking the part in the picture is a fuel pressure regulator. The electrical plug suggests that it would send a signal to the computer if the pressure dropped below a certain level.
  17. My crappy little owners manual does specifically state that the van has a fuel filter, it just says to replace it at 90,000 miles. Problem is, when I call my local auto parts store, or even the Ford dealer, neither of them can find it in their systems. O'Rileys said it was "non-serviceable" and thought that it was in the tank (doesn't mean it's non-serviceable), and the dealer couldn't find any mention of it at all. It's likely the useless little manual that comes with the van, doesn't distinguish between diesel and gas models, and just covers everything that "might" have been installed in the vehicle from the factory. I did find this little object on the passenger side firewall, behind the foil heat shield. It has fuel lines attached to it, along with an electrical plug, but it seems far too small to be a fuel filter. I described the part to the dealer, but they didn't know what it was. It has the numbers PA66-GF33 stamped all over it. I called the dealer back with that part number, but it didn't help. When I called the dealer, I spoke with a different person, and they couldn't find it either, saying that maybe it was part of the fuel pump. Does anybody know what this part is?
  18. Timbo

    Oil Change

    I'm glad I found this thread. I couldn't find the oil change intervals in my owners manual and was going to change the oil/filter on my '10 TC today. Then I found my maintenance records and saw that my last oil change was only 4,000 miles ago. I'm glad I read the replies here before going outside and crawling under the van. Looks like I can wait another 3,500 miles.
  19. Well, it's happened. The driver's side door, which has been giving me the same grief as the passenger door did since replacing that latch, has started unlocking itself now. I just ordered another $335 door latch from the Ford dealer. My local auto wreckers won't sell me just the latch. They want me to buy the entire door, and that's more expensive than a new latch. It would also result in my installing a used latch of questionable reliability. I hate to throw so much money at a problem that I don't really know the cause of, but at this point it seems like the next-best step before having a comprehensive diagnostic run ($140) to see if they can find the "real problem".. Does anyone know if there's a module for the doors, somewhere between the doors themselves and the main computer? If the new latch doesn't fix the problem, and I fear it might not, that would seem like the next place to look. ~
  20. Yeah, is this thing running yet? I wish like hell that Ford would come out with a manual from the market, available in the US. Seems like Europe gets all the good stuff.
  21. Here's a quick glimpse of my minimalist TC camper build. Yes, the leg to my folding table is resting on the inverter, but unless I stack 50 bowling balls or a couple of anvils on it, I don't think it's going to dent the case. (the table went in years before the inverter). The internal fan keeps the inverter from getting hot, if I even use it at all, and the crutch leg / foot is impervious to heat. But then, again, there isn't any heat to worry about. The kitchen counter stows under the bed when not in use. I used coat hooks, bolted to the underside of the bed to hold it in place, and used a piece of carpet to keep the fit tight and act as a friction source to keep the table from sliding out / off the hooks. It works great. The coat hooks have rubber tubing on them for added friction and slip resistance. The angled, wooden trim under the table eliminates bowing / drooping of the 1/4" plywood counter top. I use similar wooden angled trim, fastened to the insides of the rear doors, to mount the kitchen counter to. Metal pins through the counter and into the trim, hold it in place. Since the cargo area of the 2010 TC is just 6' and I am 6' 4.5", I installed a 10" folding leaf to make the bed 6' 10" long if/when needed. To be honest, though, I never use the leaf. If I fold the passenger seat forward and push it back, the worst that can happen is I wake up with my feet resting in a very comfortable position against the back of the seat. I'm seriously considering removing the existing leaf and replacing it with a 6' X 10" folding leaf, mounted on the side of the bed, that will work exactly the same as the current design. The only difference being that the leaf wouldn't fold all the way under the bed, but hang on the side. Since removing my bulky, Camco, flushing camp toilet and replacing it with a bucket-potty, there is now a lot more room to work with on the side of the bed. As you can see, I do not have a sink, but just a 3 gallon bottle with an attached pump. It works great. I really like it. 1st Gen. TC's come with so little extra horsepower, the less you can weigh them down, the better off you and your fuel economy will be. The last picture is of my driver and passenger side window coverings. I use Reflectix on the other windows, backed up with black curtains for when I want privacy but still a little light. The front windows, however, get indoor / outdoor carpet, cut to perfectly fit the windows. They attach using the "hook" half of adhesive-backed Velcro that I have stuck to the window frames. The carpet, being fibrous, acts as the "loop" side of the Velcro, completing the two halves. I like the carpet because I can roll the windows down to let fresh air in, without also letting flying insects in. The windshield has a custom fit, reflective sun shade to keep things cool inside.
  22. It's called Reflectix, and yes, you can find it at your local home improvement store. I picked it up at Home Depot. It's foil on both sides with bubble-wrap material in the middle. Very easy to cut into any shape you need. It's also very affordable. We don't get super cold temps in this part of California, so I don't have a lot of personal experience with cold weather insulation, but I have used it in very hot weather. It works great at keeping out the heat. The moment I pull it off the window, I feel the heat radiating off the glass that it was blocking. (If you look closely, or zoom in, you can see the little, white conduit clamps I use to support the curtain rods). (At the bottom of the picture you can see the hardwood trim I use to hang the kitchen counter / table between the rear doors).
  23. And with a minimum of weight added. That was key for this wimpy and painfully underpowered little van.
  24. Thanks! 40mm ---> https://www.americastire.com/buy-wheels/voxx-mga/p/77987 I'm still trying to figure out what to do about the extra lug bores. I'm hoping to find rubber or plastic caps, but I haven't completely ruled out just painting them black.
  25. Oh yeah, that looks soooo much better than the stock hubcaps. In case you're wondering what all the crap on the roof is. It's a 190W solar panel, awning bar, and solar shower. You can't see the kayak saddles from this angle.