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There is a common issue with these Ford CD radios, once they are a few years old. The electronics are similar across Transit Connect, Focus and Fiesta. Behind the button panel/readout (where the CD goes in) is the audio hardware. Inside the unit, the block of the two amplifier transistors (left and right) are fastened to the metal case of the unit via screws. This allows the metal case to act as a necessary heat sink, as they generate heat during operation, and excess temperature will destroy the transistors. There is a thin layer of heat sink compound between the transistors and the metal case, to improve heat transfer. Over time, this dries out, which tends to cause it to be an insulator. This causes overheating and weird noises from the speakers. If you are handy, you can open the dash, remove the unit, open the case, clean off the old compound, add new compound and re-assemble. This compound is common stuff, same as used for computer processor heat sinks. It's inexpensive and you can find a tube at Best Buy, Amazon, etc. You want a thin, even layer for best results. On my 2012 Focus, I was not able figure this out before the thumpy noises became extremely loud, constant and the transistors were destroyed. On my daughter's 2011 Fiesta, I was able to successfully fix when the problem first started, and she's had no issues since (been good for something like three years). Hopefully I haven't over-explained things, I just wanted to have the full info out there for anyone on the forums going forward. If you try the repair, let us know how it goes.

Back in 2015 I built a custom hanging rack inside the van to carry gear to the beach. Recently a forumite PM'd with questions about the rack after seeing a pic of it on a thread. Since I can't PM pics to someone, I'm posting a few pics here to help them along. Below - Rack frame made with 2"x1"x3/4" pine, glued and screwed. the deck is 1/2" plywood. Covered with bulk carpet from HD, same that was used for the cargo flooring. Below - rear bracket - Simpson strong tie from HD bent in a vise with a mallet to hang plumb. Mounting hole was created using an existing reinforced hole and tapping with threads. Below - shows angle of bent bracket. Below - front bracket - may have given that a slight bend as well, can't remember. Mounting hole used an existing hole - bolt/nut - Nut before bracket to hold bolt in place. Below - view of rack from cab area. Below - a view of a gusset that was added to each hanging bracket. Not part of the initial design but the rack had a slight sway front to back and was making a creaking noise. The gusset cinched up the rack nicely. Uses same strong-tie material. Below - Ditched the LED cargo light that I had ordered with the van since the rack obscured it. Plus the light stays on for 10 minutes and I couldn't control it with a switch. The LED bar lights are controlled with two switches: at the left rear and left sliding door. Very convenient to add task lighting.

I love the industrial look and function of the L-track. But I hate removing the front wheel to transport my bikes. This is even worse now that all MTB and road bikes have disc brakes and thru axles. I have a more traditional, and expensive, solution that uses a Thule roof mount sytem with some modification. I bolted the parts to a plate and secured it with rivnuts and thumbwheel bolts. This works well since I mainly use my bikes on local rides and not as part of a camper build. This sytem barely works with my MTB in my SWB Transit Connect. I had to use a foam block to secure the bike via the top tube. Plus the MTB (with wheel attached) barely fits in the shorter wheelbase van. There is probably a better quick-release solution for securing the plate other than the thumbwheel bolts.

The MSRP is a built in markup, all on it's own. Huge difference between what the dealer pays for the car, and the MSRP. There's even a difference in what the dealer pays for the car, and the invoice. Not even the invoice is the real price the dealer pays for the car. That's why they used have those sales where they sold cars for thousands under invoice. That's what gives you room for negotiation. I think the finance department is the real algae slime sucker. They take advantage of people who can't afford to buy the car. Rig finance "deals" to where someone can "afford" a certain amount monthly. Then charge them some usurious interest rate for 120 months. Then on top of that, sell them the extended warranty, and finance that as well. Unless they allow someone to drive the car off from the factory, like Tesla, the dealership will be involved. Those cars will be delivered to a dealership for dealer prep. There will be a fee for that. Receiving fee, dock fee, handling fee, top off the electric charge fee........ Someone has to pay for all the coffee and donuts that they give away. As you may be able to guess - I do not like car dealers.

I placed an order for a 2023 but recently bailed on it. I found a new 2022 silver LWB XLT cargo van in Indiana (customer order that they gave up on since it took over a year). I picked it up there and drove it back to Arizona. They were only asking $1500 over MSRP (the few others I found in different states wanted $10K over MSRP) which was less than the 2023 price increase. Didn't have all the options I wanted, but was close enough.