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Yup they are, and the weep holes along the door's bottom edge is where the melted frost and water escapr from.

I can’t help much but have them too except I dont have the plugs. Mine have just a metal cup with no top at all. I’d say pop the cap and fillt or cover them smoothly.

I found a 2010 TC near me in NH and after a bit of rust abatement and driving it for a few months decided to build myself a camper. It had less than 60K miles, good tires, smooth running but some surface rust on the rear bumper cover and pinch seams on the rockers. I replaced the bumper, repaired the spare bracket, bought a wheel to replace the spare and shot an oil based rustproofing on the rockers. Inspection found corrision on one side of the front suspension subframe that I had welded. The van wasnt generally very rusty but these places are commonly the first affected. Convinced this could make a great camper for my fur pal Jack and me I designed one. It needed a single bed, a galley, storage, some electricity for a vent, heater, lights, and for electronics recharging. To start I pulled out the back seats and insulated enough so that a 2KW diesel heater could overcome freezing temps in case I camped in late fall or early spring. I’ll have a powered roof vent for summer and for cooking. The insulation is covered with a felt carpet to improve the appearance. For a bed I used 1/2” hardwood plywood and slats from Ikea to make a cot sized main bed and added two pullout sections to bring it to twin size. It is firmly bolted to the van. I found a 4 piece folding twin sized mattress on Walmart which I cut appart and then sewed the open sides back closed. I also added a shelf above the drivers cabin to store supplies and clothes. The narrow cushions are used as backrests when the bed is compacted to twin size and makes a couch for sitting. Old milk crates fit under the bed for storing shoes, hiling boots, butane fuel and much more. To support the pullout I built a galley with a sink, drawers, and a slide out for my trusty refrigerator. When installed and bolted in it gives some food storage, a place for 2.5 gal. water jugs for fresh/waste, and my cooking stove plus utensils. I'll add a CO2/Smoke detector and fire extinguisher. It will get a formica top soon. I’ve purchased most of the equipment to finish the electrical with a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery, 200 Watts of solat panels w/controller, some fuse and distribution panels, puck lights, usb and cigar outlets for charging, and swirches. I hope to finish this in a couple of months so I can get away for a shakedown trip before fall. At this time I’ve spent just under $5,900 including $4,700 for the van, and about $1,200 for the conversion. I will probably find a few more items that are needed but my goal is to keep the cost at $6,000. The van will get a transmission service, fluids changed, new belts and perhaps radiator hoses before I go far. With only 6,000 miles it may not need all that but it is now 15 years old. I hope to see you on the road!

Hey everyone, I'm an amateur car guy but I love Gen1 TCs. They just look so cool. I have an old white 2011 cargo that I insulated and fan'd etc, just a surfer van + work commuter/breakroom. And just got a spotless silver 2012 xlt premium passenger wagon with 30k miles on it that I'm working on for my woman. Selling the seats (another post). I'm currently trying to figure out what these plates are for. There are three of them and I can't find mention anywhere online. They're just big enough to make my vanrug bulge up. I can remove and plug the holes, but wanted to ask for feedback first. Any ideas??? Thank you so much. Steve

What are these membranes for on the rear door panels; my guess is that they are primarily vapour barriers?

Story Time Owner of a used 2014 Ford Transit Connect 2.5L Gas This morning go to start the vehicle, clearly hearing misfires on the idle. Van runs at reduced power, very shakey, and CEL/Engine Light flashing like crazy. Luckily because it is a Work Vehicle, I had invested in spare parts for standby in case of an emergency. Grabbed those spare parts and took them, had to drive off due to the timeframe. Once I got to a safe spot to do some work, I brought out a scan tool that indicated misfires all over the place and "Open to Ground" on all injectors and the Fuel Pump 8mm Socket to remove the bolts that hold on the Ignition Coils 5/8" Spark Plug Socket (3/8" drive) for removing the Spark Plugs Cylinder #2 Spark Plug was missing the pointed center electrode, all the remaining cylinders had significant corrosion and carbon buildup Cylinder #1 Ignition Coil was cracked and showing internals After replacing these parts, I started the van back up. Clean Idle, no knocks. Cleared errors with my scan tool I still got codes for "Open to Ground" on all the Fuel Injectors and the Fuel Pump, but that has been an issue since I have owned this vehicle. If anyone has insights into this particular issue, let me know what you found. Otherwise, problem resolved. Parts sourced from Rock Auto Ignition Coil: SKP SKUF621T Spark Plugs: NGK 90220 Ruthenium HX High Ignitability *probably overkill on the spark plugs but they were the highest rated on RockAuto and the price was reasonable at ~$12.60 CAD each* Hope this can be helpful to others.

I realize this is an old thread but in case anyone else is looking, here's some pointers: Blinking IMMO light usually indicates a loss of the programming for the transponder chips or possibly a miscommunication between the Immobilizer Coil and the keys themselves. First, check to see you have not lost the chips from your keys. Second, try to connect a scan-tool to read codes. Some of the more advanced tools can tell you if the keys are programmed to the vehicle. Third, check fuses related to the computer and immobilizer system (make sure all your electrical connections are both tight and clean). Finally, remove the shroud cover and see if the connector for the Immobilizer Ring has become disconnected. If you don't have that advanced of a scan tool or require another key, you're best to call a vehicle locksmith and have them run a diagnostic and programming for you.

Hi, I can print a bunch. I just need a count. If you have lost some or can't determine the number, I can count mine and come up with a price for you to consider. DM me if you're still interested.

Did you already have the brackets in the body? I don't have them. Did you find a solution?

Did you ever figure out a way to add brackets?. I am hoping to do same

Hi everyone, I just bought a like-new 2012 TC with 30k miles on it. Looks like it's sat in a garage. We don't need the rear seats and I'd like to sell to recoup some $$, as I paid a LOT for it. $600 for the lot, might consider splitting. Also have seatbelts & hardware if you need. You won't find used seats in better condition, see photos. I was really surprised to see a small stain (barely noticeable, in photo) as the rest of the car is spotless. Almost like new otherwise. I'm located in the Santa Barbara / Ventura area. Thanks, Steve

Don is correct on all counts!

You remove the black part and they bolt down there. Lucky you have those anchor points where they click in when you open them up. I don't and I'm trying figure out if I can add something to make up for it. My seats won't open without any

Hi All! I have a 2013 Connect with the front seat that folds flat. Has anyone managed to retrofit ISOFIX and if so what adapter/bracket did you use? The attached image seems to be the best option I can see so far. Does anyone have experience with this bracket? Thanks!

There are several youtube videos on the subject. The filter is accessed from the passenger side and it's behind the center console. Filters are available on Amazon. If you have a rear climate control, you have another one under the driver seat. Looks like an upside-down bowl. This filter is a little harder to find. Probably ford parts.

If the problem was the caliper, why wasn't it replaced? ABS problems should throw a trouble code your mechanic can scan for.

Good optics.

I had a little shop time so I installed SF Racing adjustable struts, shocks and springs and picked up some 18x8 Volvo S80 wheels for the TC. Also previously tinted the windows and whited out some of the vinyl side trim. I'd like to paint the bumpers white as well. Maybe this summer I will find time to work on that.

I have a 2020 Transit Connect wagon with 51K miles. Front brakes started seizing at speeds over 60 mph and took to mechanic. Diagnosed piston/caliper problems, replaced in both front brakes as well as drums and pads. Seemed fixed with driving around town and short trips on highway. Drove on interstate today for over an hour and same seizing occurred at speeds over 60mph. Probably burned up another pair of pads. Will have to take it back to mechanic next week. Could it be ABS pump system? No warning light has ever come on. Any previous owner experience with this problem would be most appreciated.

Anyone know if I can fit fog lights to my 2016 connect it doesn’t come with fog lights from factory it’s has blanking plates can these be removed ? Also is the harness there for the fog lights ? It has the switch inside any help would be appreciated

I am having the same issue. I think it's my passenger front door and driver's sliding door. I try to lock it with the fob and it locks and then unlocks and the light is on that a door is open. Ugh.

Hi. When the driver door is opened, sometimes will hear a fast clicking under the hood and the Service Endine message comes on when key is turned to run. It will sometimes clear if the key is cycled on/off, but if not will run rough in limp mode. Throws a throttle position voltage correlation warning or ICM torque calculation performance. Both the throttle boby and the gas pedal relaced and still happens. Any ideas?

No, get it fixed ASAP. Losing coolant ends up in a major failure.

not in the us apparently.