dgotc Posted June 16, 2022 Share Posted June 16, 2022 Hello all, I'm about to install some Bilstein 22-272447 and 22-272430 B6's on the front of our little van. I blew a factory strut and wanted something a little more durable. We'll see how they ride. My experience with them is enjoyable and reliable on other vehicles I own. Does anyone have the torque specs for: 1. Top Hat to chassis 2. Top Hat to strut 3. Knuckle to strut pinch bolt 4. Anything else you can foresee me needing Also, any advice on the procedure would be appreciated. I have changed who know how many shocks and struts in my life (maybe 100?), just not for this particular vehicle. It looks pretty straight forward, just need access to the top hat chassis nuts under all that plastic. Then loosen pinch bolt and stuff mounted to the strut and pry the knuckle down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted June 17, 2022 Share Posted June 17, 2022 Here's the procedure for 2016 TC strut removal and installation. strut.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgotc Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 Don, Many, many thanks for this info. I've always owned a FSM for my cars, but this one is a bit coast-prohibitive. I mean, it's a Ford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgotc Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 On 6/17/2022 at 11:01 AM, Don Ridley said: Here's the procedure for 2016 TC strut removal and installation. strut.pdf 389.93 kB · 5 downloads Don, Any chance you can provide the procedure to remove the wiper motor (strut.pdf step 1)? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 (edited) See attached. You have exhausted your free manual downloads......just kidding : ) cowl.pdf wiper motor.pdf Edited July 15, 2022 by Don Ridley LostnTransit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgotc Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 (edited) Thanks again, Don. I'm going to need the entire database please. Just kidding. I wish the FSM's weren't so prohibitively expensive. I know it's really designed for professional mechanics and dealers so I should probably not complain. I appreciate your assistance. Now that this post is here, I hope it helps lots of people with this procedure. I know I'm not the only person that needs to replace shocks, themselves. Edited July 16, 2022 by dgotc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted July 16, 2022 Share Posted July 16, 2022 Here's where I got mine. It's not an interactive PDF with hot links, but all the info is there. Unfortunately the wiring diagrams are extra. https://www.factory-manuals.com/ford-transit-connect&28&164 Willygee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgotc Posted August 6, 2022 Author Share Posted August 6, 2022 I'm having a lot of trouble with reassembly of the passenger side. The CV shaft hits the frame before I can get the strut engaged in the knuckle. This was discussed here without a real good solution. I say real good because I don't want to use a spring compressor while the strut is on the car and I don't want to "just muscle it" for fear of doing damage to the CV. The inner CV joint already popped out on disassembly and I was able to pop it back in while there was no strut installed. I do have the axle hub nut off and the end pushed through the wheel bearing to see if I can get some play there... not much luck, yet. I've done a lot of front strut replacements and never have had an issue like this. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgotc Posted August 6, 2022 Author Share Posted August 6, 2022 (edited) I did have the thought of unbolting the carrier bearing just inboard from the inner CV joint. This would allow the axle to move outward, slipping out of the transmission a little (there's no split ring on the RH stub in the tranny) and maybe clear the frame by 1cm or whatever it needs to come together. Thoughts? Edited August 8, 2022 by dgotc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted August 8, 2022 Share Posted August 8, 2022 A On 8/6/2022 at 3:17 PM, dgotc said: The CV shaft hits the frame before I can get the strut engaged in the knuckl A set of Spring compressors would shorten the assembly enough to slip the fitting in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgotc Posted August 8, 2022 Author Share Posted August 8, 2022 (edited) Thanks for the suggestion, G B L. I ended up loosening the transfer bearing flange just inboard of the right-hand inner CV joint. I only loosened the nuts half way off of their studs. This allowed the axle to float a few cm in and out of the transmission and gave enough clearance between the axle and frame to get the strut slipped into the knuckle. A warning: be careful about transmission fluid spilling out of the axle hole in the tranny if the vehicle isn't perfectly level. I had a few issues with this combined with my poor judgment. Luckily, I need to do a transmission fluid flush anyways. Unluckily, a portion of transmission oil ended up on our driveway... :( I've read a few threads on transmission flushing and all of them mention a fill level check plug with a standard hex head on the left-hand side just in front of the axle. This does not exist on my car. There is a larger plug with a Torx pattern just behind the axle at a similar level. I have not seen any reference to this plug so I can't be certain it is the right one. The closest I got was a comment in this guy's vid: Does anyone have the actual transmission level check/flush procedure for my 2016 Ford Transit connect Titanium? (mainly detailing where the level check plug is) Lastly, I have about 100 miles on the new Bilstein B6 front struts. They're a very nice improvement. The small bump compliance is way better than the stock struts and they take the edge off of big hits like potholes and railroad tracks. I think I'm hearing the bump now more than feeling it. Before the bumps would vibrate the whole car more. Overall, they're a lot more buttery than the stock struts. Changes like this are very noticeable on these vehicles since they all ride so rough with small tires and high load capacity for their size. I did measure before and after and they raised the front end roughly 3/8". I'm sure it will settle a little bit. Edited August 8, 2022 by dgotc windguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgotc Posted August 21, 2022 Author Share Posted August 21, 2022 After driving a bit on some washboard gravel roads, I have to say that these struts are a huge improvement over stock. They really smooth out some teeth chattering on gravel. I highly recommend the upgrade. skippyelwell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgotc Posted August 28, 2022 Author Share Posted August 28, 2022 One thing to note: the instructions to re-mount the wipers on the motors is not correct for my vehicle. The measurements given to the edge of the windshield resulted in the wipers touching the the lower one's end moving well past the lower edge of the windshield. Luckily, I marked the original parked position in several spots with a sharpie on the glass and used that as a guide to reinstall. My windshield is a replacement and does not have the factory markings for alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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