RadioCab201 Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 Hello everyone! I'm a cab driver in Portland, OR. I joined this site because my 2016 Transit Connect LWB 2.5L wheelchair van is already on the 4th battery and this one is a dud only a few months after getting it. What I've been told is that the additional equipment in the cab drains the battery enough that it wears it out much faster. This includes a taximeter, credit card payment system, top lights, wheelchair restraint strap retractors, and an android tablet charging cable. Before I only noticed this in the colder months so replaced the battery in November/December, but this time around I started coming out to a dead battery after a couple days off in April. The guys at the shop said they install Motorcraft batteries because the draw makes Interstate batteries explode. Has anyone solved this kind of a problem with a different brand like the Duracell batteries they sell at Batteries + Bulbs? I've asked about a stronger alternator, but that didn't seem to be an option (though if I need to replace mine I will look into that more thoroughly). And a second battery has been suggested, but I have nowhere to put one. (I don't even have a spare tire due to the wheelchair bay, which also moved the gas tank.) Since I will have to replace the battery eventually anyway I just want to try what has worked best for people in a similar situation to mine. Thank you in advance for any suggestions! ~Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 (edited) Get a ford dealer (yes they charge $$) to program the computer to "Dark Mode". This means outside lights don't come on & stay on for 5 min or so whenever you open doors. Inside lights are controlled by their switches. Otherwise, anything you can do to minimize current draw when engine is off will help. Any bulbs that can be replaced with LEDs will help too. One final suggestion: as batteries do not like heavy currents [out nor in] , consider a DIY or commercial "trickle charger". Easy to make from almost any 12-15VDC pwr supply of under 2 amps output. Can be left on overnight or longer with NO problems. On my 2016 xlt (dark mode set up) wagon I added small solar panels in each rear side window [wired to rear fuse box area] and a slightly larger one on dash in front of steering (had these from some long ago project). Even after standing for about 10 days without use, the van started on first turn. These cannot charge a dead battery, but can make up for the parasitic draw of electronics. Edited June 21, 2020 by Gideon added items Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted June 21, 2020 Share Posted June 21, 2020 I think you need an AGM battery. Here is A detailed discussion: See my posts on page 2. Install an AGM type battery. Your TC does not have the battery monitoring system so that does not need to be disabled. If you do a lot of short drives followed by long periods of waiting with power on you may need a second battery. A good charger by Noco or Ctek will help. You can configure a plug to connect the charger without opening the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G B L Posted June 21, 2020 Share Posted June 21, 2020 (edited) You need to take a ride with a good scan tool recording the function of the charging system to see what the battery voltage is during your cycle. If the voltage is less than 13 with all the accessories operating then the charging system is faulty. If the voltage is not low then the battery is not being discharged at a high rate. I suspect some of the problem is the constant high temp in the battery compartment. When you changed the batteries did any one pull the cover to check the water? If the cells were dry then it is a temp issue. The location prevents checking the battery water. Edited June 22, 2020 by G B L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon Posted June 21, 2020 Share Posted June 21, 2020 (edited) Also dble check all electrical connections to ensure they are clean & tight. From past experience playing with electronics, I know poor connections {loose, corroded, intermittent shorts} are the hardest to diagnose and cause the biggest headaches! And anything you can do to reduce heat under the hood will help. Question: Do you live near the ocean with a lot of salty humidity in the air ?? THAT could (?) be a problem. Edited June 21, 2020 by Gideon added details Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Ridley Posted June 21, 2020 Share Posted June 21, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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